# CNC Frame Fittings, Oar Towers, or anything else!



## Zorba the Geek

Due to popular demand, I ended up making some high quality raft frame parts.

For everyone's convenience I put up a store on our website, from which all this stuff can be ordered directly. 

There have been lively discussions in the Gear Forum about this stuff, but I figured I should throw the links to the site store in here. 

http://wildgooseengineering.com/home/?page_id=64

I'll post when we put up new stuff, but check it out!

Obviously, I'm way open to new ideas, so let me know if there's anything you'd like to see!

Alexis


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## nmalozzi

Thanks for putting up the link to your site. Just wanted to make you aware that you didn't put the prices on the brackets. There is a price for the oar stands, but that is it. May want to add those in to make things easier.

Also, nice idea making use of the brackets for the seat mount, but will you actually be able to fit anything (drybox, cooler) under that mount like the DRE seats/mounts? Seems like these are too low to get anything under. 

One last thing, any chance you'll be taking a shot at brackets for a single rail frame? I'm a fan of the NRS u-bolts on the lopros (and it seems you are too), but would like to see your take on them. Maybe you could find a way to make the lighter? 

Thanks in advance!


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## Zorba the Geek

nmalozzi said:


> Thanks for putting up the link to your site. Just wanted to make you aware that you didn't put the prices on the brackets. There is a price for the oar stands, but that is it. May want to add those in to make things easier.
> 
> Also, nice idea making use of the brackets for the seat mount, but will you actually be able to fit anything (drybox, cooler) under that mount like the DRE seats/mounts? Seems like these are too low to get anything under.
> 
> One last thing, any chance you'll be taking a shot at brackets for a single rail frame? I'm a fan of the NRS u-bolts on the lopros (and it seems you are too), but would like to see your take on them. Maybe you could find a way to make the lighter?
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Sorry for the slow reply- 

Added in the prices and a real life pic of half of the oar tower- The anodize shop has been a serious thorn in my side, promising everything 'tomorrow' for a week and a half! To top it off, I just had to send a bunch back through because of obvious finish flaws- thankfully they're talking care of it quickly this time... Ideally I'll have the rest of the oar towers and the double rails for those waiting, tomorrow. 










The idea behind the seat bracket is for either a 12" DRE drop bag, or to bring the spacing in a bit more and have it catch a couple rocket boxes. That would facilitate toilet storage or a couple of the upright pelican boxes for easy access dry storage.

Single brackets can be done if there's enough interest- how many do you want?  They would definitely be lighter, but probably not by much. I was a little worried because they are patented, but the patent is just a design patent, so that means I just can't knock it off (which I wouldn't do anyway!) I hadn't really gone down that road yet mostly 'cause I already have a bunch, and they do work OK. 

I definitely like the NRS- erector set flexibility, but (given what I do) wasn't happy with the fit and finish- Cast parts do a great job of being 'close enough' and more importantly, really cheap, but (thankfully) there are a folks out there where 'good enough' doesn't cut it, and quality trump the overall price point. 

anyway- thanks for the input!


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## pinemnky13

Sweet site! Soon as I get my shit toether to re-build my girlfreinds frame I'll be putting in an order!


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## nmalozzi

I'd be interested in 8 of them, but it would certainly depend on the price. I don't at all mind forking out the extra coin for a better product (especially if it is locally made), but I'm also not made of money, haha!

Anyone else interested in some sexy single rail brackets? Don't be shy!


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## slamkal

*seat brackets*

if you make the seat bracket a fixed length I would make it such that the two tubes are far enough to put an ammo can/ eco-safe toilet lengthwise between them. or about 17" plus some length for the handles. Typical seat is going to be about 20" wide, plus 12" for two rocket boxes gives you 32" wide at the base of the frame if r/b are right up against the seat. 

the approx 20" pipe - pipe center distance gives you plenty of room to slide the seat back/forward for adjustment depending on the user. I was assuming you'd have a slot in the bottom for the seat bolt/washers to slide in ...

the beauty of this is that the two crossbars (which can use lopros at the ends or your double rail bracket) will support the rowers weight and there is less flex than a single seat plate and less likely for the drill holes to ovalize and loosen up from the rowing torque. Also the rear tube (assuming far enough behind the seat back) gets to be used for cooler or drybox support so net amt of pipe is the same.

here is something to think about ... make your seat mounts be four identical pieces that u-bolt to the frame crossbars. Each seat mount is two piece construction with a hinge between them so they can pivot. You use simple 1/4" breakdown pins for the hinge. This allows you to remove two pins and you can flip the seat over. ... now you also sell spacers (which are like 2" thick cylindrical aluminum spacers (with bolt clearance hole in the middle of them). The user buys as many spacers as they need to clear their cooler or drybox. The user then goes to home depot, finds a bolt long enough to go through the spacers, and bolts down a seat plate or couple of pieces of 1-1/4" 6061 angle aluminum. Then you can put whatever you want below and between the seat if you want to go with a DRE type flip seat setup or elevate the seat a few inches if they have some huge tubes on their boat ...


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## Zorba the Geek

slamkal said:


> if you make the seat bracket a fixed length I would make it such that the two tubes are far enough to put an ammo can/ eco-safe toilet lengthwise between them. or about 17" plus some length for the handles. Typical seat is going to be about 20" wide, plus 12" for two rocket boxes gives you 32" wide at the base of the frame if r/b are right up against the seat.
> 
> the approx 20" pipe - pipe center distance gives you plenty of room to slide the seat back/forward for adjustment depending on the user. I was assuming you'd have a slot in the bottom for the seat bolt/washers to slide in ...
> 
> the beauty of this is that the two crossbars (which can use lopros at the ends or your double rail bracket) will support the rowers weight and there is less flex than a single seat plate and less likely for the drill holes to ovalize and loosen up from the rowing torque. Also the rear tube (assuming far enough behind the seat back) gets to be used for cooler or drybox support so net amt of pipe is the same.
> 
> here is something to think about ... make your seat mounts be four identical pieces that u-bolt to the frame crossbars. Each seat mount is two piece construction with a hinge between them so they can pivot. You use simple 1/4" breakdown pins for the hinge. This allows you to remove two pins and you can flip the seat over. ... now you also sell spacers (which are like 2" thick cylindrical aluminum spacers (with bolt clearance hole in the middle of them). The user buys as many spacers as they need to clear their cooler or drybox. The user then goes to home depot, finds a bolt long enough to go through the spacers, and bolts down a seat plate or couple of pieces of 1-1/4" 6061 angle aluminum. Then you can put whatever you want below and between the seat if you want to go with a DRE type flip seat setup or elevate the seat a few inches if they have some huge tubes on their boat ...



There are some really cool ideas here- let me process this for a bit and get back- 

I mostly wanted to inform folks that I finally have parts in hand, and some new pics of the oar towers up on the site. 










There are more on the frame fitting page, just follow the link in my signature and scroll to the bottom.


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## kb52

Another idea for a lopro type fitting - a fitting that goes on NRS pipe but necks down to a smaller diameter pipe. I thought it might be useful for foot braces (the NRS foot brace is a clunker) and other applications (raft cockpit floors, foot rests fro cat passengers,...) that don't require as much strength.


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## mttodd

I might be interested in a couple of lopros depending on price. The neckdown fitting is a great idea. I would take two of those right away. Basically a lopro with a stub that fits 1inch pipe would be perfect. Any progress on the b type oarstand? And what colors are available?


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## tmaggert

I went down to check out the gear last wednesday and was extremely impressed!!! Everything is stout and light. I'd recommend these for anyone looking at a frame. I plan on using all this gear for my next frame.


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## Zorba the Geek

kb52 said:


> Another idea for a lopro type fitting - a fitting that goes on NRS pipe but necks down to a smaller diameter pipe. I thought it might be useful for foot braces (the NRS foot brace is a clunker) and other applications (raft cockpit floors, foot rests fro cat passengers,...) that don't require as much strength.


I dig this one- especially for doing the opposite! if you go up in size, you can actually fit NRS and DRE parts together... too fun!


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## Zorba the Geek

anyway- here are the singles- pricing is on the site, I can start making them in a day or so. The anodize will depend entirely on demand- ie. do you want em, and what color (everyone has to agree!) 










Obviously Anodize slows things down (the next batch is going to a different shop because of issues with the last batch), but there's no water yet, so what are we in a hurry for?


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## nmalozzi

Zorba the Geek said:


> anyway- here are the singles- pricing is on the site, I can start making them in a day or so. The anodize will depend entirely on demand- ie. do you want em, and what color (everyone has to agree!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously Anodize slows things down (the next batch is going to a different shop because of issues with the last batch), but there's no water yet, so what are we in a hurry for?


Awesome. Love the threaded deck mounting hole. NRS specs the LoPro at 15.3oz without the U-bolt/washers/nuts, and your's come in at 12.16. Not a huge weight saver, but these are certainly nicer, and with the deck mounting option is nice. I'll def get a set.

Does the price on the site include the U-Bolts/washers/etc, and if not would the ones NRS sells work ( NRS Frame U-bolt )?


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## Zorba the Geek

Thanks!

I've been saying it's easier for folks to order the U-bolts from NRS 'cause it's cheaper for them- I don't get any kind of deal or whatever, so even at best, it means paying for shipping twice. 

The U-bolts are the standard length NRS U-bolts -that's what all the fittings I make use.


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## nmalozzi

Zorba the Geek said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I've been saying it's easier for folks to order the U-bolts from NRS 'cause it's cheaper for them- I don't get any kind of deal or whatever, so even at best, it means paying for shipping twice.
> 
> The U-bolts are the standard length NRS U-bolts -that's what all the fittings I make use.


Awesome. I've got some other expenses to take care of at the moment. But I'll be ordering about 10-12 of them in the not so distant future!


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## kb52

Non-anodized would work for me


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## Zorba the Geek

First ones are out of the machine!









http://wildgooseengineering.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/IMG_0680-300x225.jpg


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## blutzski

I’m still interested in building a frame with your fittings. Very nice stuff after seeing it in person. Couple questions:

1) I want diamond plate side decks due to weight and maintenance concerns. 
a. Any ideas on how to support diamond plate between the fittings which will be about 22” apart? I was thinking maybe some rubber pads secured to the underside of the deck at the same height as the fittings. 
b. How do you recommend drilling the diamond plate so the holes line up with the fitting holes? 
c. Someone on a different thread recommending aluminum bleacher seats for side decks MARKSTAAR - Aluminum Planks - Category Details . Seemed like a good idea since the bracket which secures the bleacher seats is adjustable so you could easily adjust the cross bars without having to re-drill your decks. I wish the bleacher seats weren’t so thick though. Maybe rout out the bleacher seats where the cross the fittings so that they drop down between the fittings to make them lower and so that they then rest on the double rails. But then they would have to be screwed to the fittings and would no longer be adjustable. Is your equipment able to rout out bleacher seats?​2) Am I correct in my understanding that anodizing is recommended to give the aluminum surface harness and prevent damage? Have you found a good inexpensive source for anodized pipes?
3) What colors are the fittings available in?


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## Zorba the Geek

Here are some quick answers-

Aluminum decking is not a bad option for all the reasons you list- I had a chance to check the rigidity of ~1/8" diamond plate, and 22" is too far apart. I'd be worried about it regardless because of the height that it sits above the tubes. It'll end up leaving an edge, and even if it's totally round, it would be sharper than I'd want to have exposed on a raft. One of the guidlines that I put on our guys for the parts coming out of the shop is "picture slipping and falling on this with your shins- will you still have skin?"

They usually go back and de-burr and round a little more after that. 

As for drilling- there are some really trick little tools that we use to transfer and locate holes. Basically it's a set screw with a point on it- you thread them into the holes, put the plate (or wood) on top, get it all liked up, and whack it with a dead blow hammer. that puts a nice little center punch where the holes need to be. When I did the plywood for my roof rack, I simply put in button head cap screws and the marks transfered just fine. 

I like the idea of the bleacher seat- those clamps could (at first look) easily be drilled in the right spot to line up, it would be rigid, and the clamping mechanism would mean you could still move the rails around without re-drilling holes. The only issues I see with it is the height, and the notch for the oar tower. It could easily be cut and rounded, but it won't be adjustable. That shouldn't matter much, because you'd really want the oars in the middle anyway, so getting that set isn't really a bad thing. 

The only other issues I see with it are the 2" height you'd need for the 12" wide ones, and the thought of them sitting in 100 degree desert sun- ouch!

You are correct about the anodizing, and just yesterday I found a good source for anodized pipe.

The colors right now are Blue and raw- I about have enough sitting for another anodize run, so it could be about anything. The only double rail fittings I have now are blue. Red looked pretty good- so does the blue. I might go gold or something lighter this time- what color would you like to see?


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