# Oar lock choices



## Daddygall (May 12, 2009)

Finally going to replace my pins and clips that came with my boat ten years ago with oarlocks. I thought the sawyers cobra oarlocks with the nut lock was the go to without question, but the local shop owner recommended the new NRS atomic aluminum oarlocks (even though they cost less) over the sawyers. Thoughts? Experience? Can the drop forged aluminum be bent back into shape with a river cobble? Does it even spread out like other oar locks? Any one think I should save my money for booze and drugs and keep the pins and clips?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Daddygall said:


> Finally going to replace my pins and clips that came with my boat ten years ago with oarlocks. I thought the sawyers cobra oarlocks with the nut lock was the go to without question, but the local shop owner recommended the new NRS atomic aluminum oarlocks (even though they cost less) over the sawyers. Thoughts? Experience? Can the drop forged aluminum be bent back into shape with a river cobble? Does it even spread out like other oar locks? Any one think I should save my money for booze and drugs and keep the pins and clips?


I don't have enough miles on my new atomic aluminum oarlocks yet to say authoritatively that you will never ever have a problem with them, but they are badass lightweight.

Aluminum _should_ be elastic enough to spring back to shape if you spring an oar, and you _should _never have to do riverside forging with appropriately sized cobbles.

I watched the NRS video. On paper, they look like an equal in strength to the Superston oarlocks.

I hate pins and clips. Next question.

Also budget for oar sleeves/rope wraps, and oar rights or oar stops.


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## kengore (May 29, 2008)

Since I upgraded to the cobras I no longer need to do any oar lock tuning with river cobbles. They are very beefy and I haven't knocked them out of shape in over three seasons.


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## Pinned (Apr 19, 2012)

I had the Atomic aor locks and although they are light and strong they are too hard for the NRS oar towers. In 15-20 days on the river they turned my towers holes into ovals so things got really sloppy front to back. The atomic locks are very strong and so hopefully there would be no deformation of the horns but I am sure you will not be able to tweak them back like a "bronze" oarlock, they will most likely fail catosrophically if they do at all.

I think the atomic locks would be good with a steel frame but they forged aluminum is just too hard and rigid for the cast aluminum NRS towers. NRS was very good(as usual) and warrantied the locks and towers so I am now running their superston oar locks with new towers. 

If I were you I would go with the cobras or superston if you have an aluminum frame, but if its steel go for the Atomics.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Interesting point! It would be the hard anodizing on the Atomics that would abrade the softer, non-anodized tower. I've run mine in a welded steel frame, and pulled them out this morning and was pleasantly surprised that the anodizing wasn't marred in the slightest by the steel bushing. Pretty cool.


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## colorado_steve (May 1, 2011)

i have the cobras with threaded lock nut and love em.. +1 for the sawyers


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Steve at Andy/Bax was mentioning these

http://pro-loks.com/Work.html

they look pretty badd ass ---- and the theoretically breakable components looks like you could probably carry a spare. and you don't need rope or oar sleeves ---

I like the idea that they aren't going to pop out but they don't look like they were made in someones garage and you can flip the oars over (away from the detent) if you want to feather them ...


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## Daddygall (May 12, 2009)

Sounds like the sawyers may still be the choice as I have the NRS frame oar mounts. Might give NRS a call and see what they say about that ovaling issue.


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## Daddygall (May 12, 2009)

Talked to someone at NRS. They said ovaling hasn't been an issue. If something did happen sounds like they'd take care of it. Anyone else have this issue with these oarlocks?


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## John the welder (May 2, 2009)

I have had no problems with the aluminium oar locks. Poped an oar out in cable and when I came back to my shop Ther was only 15 thousands difference between the two oar locks. It sprang back to it's origional shape. No need to stick it in a vice. The shanks are .608 and cobras are .625 so that will cause some slop. Ream your holes out and put in some bronze bushings if you are worried about wear.


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## Pinned (Apr 19, 2012)

Even though I had my tower oval out, I agree the atomic locks are bomber. When i was using them they were very tough (smashed into rocks) and held my boat vertical without poping an oar, while the oar was jammed in a rock under the surface.....maybe im a little hard on my locks. I think they are great locks that are light and tough, but I also think that more people will see the ovaling of the tower over time.


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## fdon (Jul 23, 2008)

Avatard said:


> Steve at Andy/Bax was mentioning these
> 
> Work
> 
> ...


Those wire keepers look pretty scary. A digit remover if I ever saw one.


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## Colorado Ice (Jul 7, 2009)

*Oar Lock Choices*

Question
I'm using Cobra locks and a DRE frame tower. The Cobras come with a split ring to retain the lock in the tower. But with the DRE towers the split ring tends to bind when the lock shaft turns. Eventually this binding deforms the split ring. I have also secured the lock in the tower using a small nut/bolt combination. I have recently started using a slightly smaller diameter split ring but that does not completely eliminate the binding.I have been told that this binding of the split ring is unique to the DRE towers.



This design looks to me like the use of a split ring to retain the lock in the tower is intended to allow the oar lock to pull out of the tower when unusually loaded and protect the lock and tower from damage. A nut/bolt combination would require much more force to remove the lock from the tower compared to the split ring. Defeating the design intent.

Any comments appreciated

R


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## pearen (Apr 28, 2007)

There is not a designed in failure mode that allows your lock to slide up out of the tower. I run these (lubed with bronners) and they are worth every penny. 









Lock nut is way superior to cotter pin or split ring. Oar locks should be made of BRASS so that they can deform under impact or to release an oar without trashing the much stronger tower.

I think Atomics are a good idea for packrafting in AK where weight really does matter.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

John the welder said:


> I have had no problems with the aluminium oar locks. Poped an oar out in cable and when I came back to my shop Ther was only 15 thousands difference between the two oar locks. It sprang back to it's origional shape. No need to stick it in a vice.


Good to know they'll pop out--thanks!


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## catwoman (Jun 22, 2009)

I agree with pearen. I have not run the atomics, but in general I would rather break an oar lock than an oar tower, an oar, or a frame. I always have an extra oar lock, but I don't ususally have an extra oar tower. Aluminum, in general, is strong but brittle and when it fails - it fails catastrophically. I would not reccomend hammering on your aluminum oar locks with rocks. It may shatter 100 strokes later in a rapid.

Incidentally I just read an article saying the new F150 will have aluminum frames instead of steel to meet fuel efficiency requirements.


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## Gremlin (Jun 24, 2010)

Colorado Ice said:


> Question
> I'm using Cobra locks and a DRE frame tower. The Cobras come with a split ring to retain the lock in the tower. But with the DRE towers the split ring tends to bind when the lock shaft turns. Eventually this binding deforms the split ring. I have also secured the lock in the tower using a small nut/bolt combination. I have recently started using a slightly smaller diameter split ring but that does not completely eliminate the binding.I have been told that this binding of the split ring is unique to the DRE towers.
> 
> 
> ...


I had the same problem with split rings with my geometry. They would get deformed to the point the washer and spring would slide past the ring and end up in the water. My friend once jammed his oar and deformed his split ring with the upward force against the tower enough that the oarlock slid out of the tower with the deformed ring still attached. Of course, he couldn't reinsert the tower with the ring still attached and lost control in the middle of a rapid.

Here is my simple solution that my friend adopted and neither of us has had a problem in two years.

This piece of zinc coated hardware only costs a few bucks and is readily available. I needed to drill out the hole in the oarlock a bit to get it to pass through. Actually, I used a bit about the same size as the original hole and rounded the edges so the tight radius of the clip could pass through.

Works for me, hope it helps.


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## cupido76 (May 22, 2009)

Gremlin said:


> I had the same problem with split rings with my geometry. They would get deformed to the point the washer and spring would slide past the ring and end up in the water. My friend once jammed his oar and deformed his split ring with the upward force against the tower enough that the oarlock slid out of the tower with the deformed ring still attached. Of course, he couldn't reinsert the tower with the ring still attached and lost control in the middle of a rapid.
> 
> Here is my simple solution that my friend adopted and neither of us has had a problem in two years.
> 
> ...


Great solution... thanks!


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## wettdreams (Aug 2, 2012)

pearen said:


> There is not a designed in failure mode that allows your lock to slide up out of the tower. I run these (lubed with bronners) and they are worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


this 100%. I've used a bunch of different equipment over the years, an poped an oar here are there, but brass is the best. If your lucky you'll only buy it once, so spend a few extra $'s and get what's worth having/ proven. if you think about the cost per stroke it'll be so stinkin small I can't even come up with an appropriate simile....cheaper than a cheap mistake


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## jzim (Mar 12, 2009)

Cotter keys (not cotter pins) work fine for me. No drilling or what not, and they are cheap.


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## steelheaddan (Nov 21, 2012)

Hey, river dogs!! I have been using the PRO-LOKS rowing system for a few years now and have been very pleased. The radial movement is far better than anything I have ever seen. The steel is 303 stainless and seems to be very strong. As the manufacturer had indicated, the removal of the rope wrap makes for a very smooth operation. There is a detent in the oar coller that lines up with a stainless allen on the oar stopper. They call this the PRO-RITE, very ingenious, you can use this to hold the oars position, or spin the oar over to feather the oars. They say that thier product will work with Most composite oars but I just ended up buying thier oar, the PRO-LOKS oar. It has a nice dynel sleeve in the wear area. That's all for now, anyone interested should go to thier sight at PRO-LOKS.com. Give them a call if you have any questions they were very nice and personal.


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## Grifgav (Jun 20, 2011)

steelheaddan said:


> Hey, river dogs!! I have been using the PRO-LOKS rowing system for a few years now and have been very pleased. The radial movement is far better than anything I have ever seen. The steel is 303 stainless and seems to be very strong. As the manufacturer had indicated, the removal of the rope wrap makes for a very smooth operation. There is a detent in the oar coller that lines up with a stainless allen on the oar stopper. They call this the PRO-RITE, very ingenious, you can use this to hold the oars position, or spin the oar over to feather the oars. They say that thier product will work with Most composite oars but I just ended up buying thier oar, the PRO-LOKS oar. It has a nice dynel sleeve in the wear area. That's all for now, anyone interested should go to thier sight at PRO-LOKS.com. Give them a call if you have any questions they were very nice and personal.



Gee, you think this guy is/works for PRO-LOKS?


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## curtisahlers (May 27, 2010)

Is there any difference between the Aire Brass oar lock and the sawyer cobra? On Aire's website their picture has a S on the oar lock. Looking to buy oar locks and I can find the Aire in stock but not cobras.


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

The options from the dropdown on Aire's website are brass oarlock or cobra oarlock. The pic on the website is definitely the Sawyer. The Cobras are the Sawyers but the standard brass ones look much more similar to the NRS superstons


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## curtisahlers (May 27, 2010)

tBatt said:


> The options from the dropdown on Aire's website are brass oarlock or cobra oarlock. The pic on the website is definitely the Sawyer. The Cobras are the Sawyers but the standard brass ones look much more similar to the NRS superstons


Yeah I just saw that, so I guess there is a difference. thanks


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I haven't used the Aires, but I wouldn't buy a brass oarlock for whitewater use.

For a "standard" lock, I'd go with the Sawyer 'A' lock or NRS Superston lock.





Sawyer Open ("A") Oarlock


Sawyer's traditional



sawyerstation.com












NRS Superston Open Oarlock


The NRS Superston is the toughest whitewater open oarlock available - anywhere. Built to perform flawlessly under the most demanding and extreme conditions.



www.nrs.com





IMHO "Mag 70" and "superston" aren't likely a specially formulated alloy. Bronze is bronze, and I can't see the industry spending millions to come up with a special "oarlock" alloy when billions have already been spent coming up with manganese bronze alloys like C86300, C86500, etc...and are commercially available in ingots. So anyway...you're getting manganese bronze and it's still way better than brass for this purpose.

Sawyer also has the new "Canyon" oarlock which is sort of a cross between the A and the Cobra. It has wider but not as wide horns like the Cobra, plus knobs on top of the horns which minimize the chances of an impalement injury if you fall on the oarlock.





Canyon Oar Locks


Canyon Oar Locks make rowing easier



sawyerstation.com


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## carvedog (May 11, 2005)

Proloks for me. 



https://shop.pro-loks.com/products/pro-loks-nex-gen



The oar right part is removable. Or flip it over in the lock and you can run open.


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## Pine (Aug 15, 2017)

I haven't seen the forged Aluminum oarlocks up close, and its hard to tell from the pic on the NRS website, but I'm wondering if the shaft part is machined smooth like the Superston oarlocks are? Forged Aluminum is very tough stuff, and I'm sure you wouldn't run into any strength issues. 

I'm surprised to hear of people having to beat their oarlocks back into shape. I can't imagine what kind of force would bend one? Maybe getting drug upside down on the the river bottom on a flipped boat, or smashed hard into a wall? I would be very reluctant to beat on one. I think most bronze ones are are cast, and I can't imagine they are very malleable?

As for the Sawyer Cobras, I've never understood what the supposed advantage of the extra wide lock surface is? I row 100% open locks and I want the minimal amount friction possible on my oars from the locks. Seem like the fat lock shape would just create more drag.

The Pro lock looks more suitable for a drift boat or dory.


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## carvedog (May 11, 2005)

Pine said:


> I row 100% open locks and I want the minimal amount friction possible on my oars from the locks. Seem like the fat lock shape would just create more drag.
> 
> The Pro lock looks more suitable for a drift boat or dory.


They are least amount of friction I have rowed with. Not sure what about them only looks suitable for drift boat or dory??


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## upacreek (Mar 17, 2021)

Had a flipped boat get away from the group for about mile on the upper Salt, and by the time it was the recovered the mini Cobras were bent over to the point they had to be later hacksawed out. But was at least able to bang them back into usable shape temporarily. ProLoks look sweet and am sure row like butter, but like their oars am not sure they'd take as much a beating. In any case, you can damn near buy two sets of NRS or Sawyers oarlocks for the cost of one set of those plus the sleeves...so I'd rather a have spare set, but am cheap that way.


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## cupido76 (May 22, 2009)

Pine said:


> I haven't seen the forged Aluminum oarlocks up close, and its hard to tell from the pic on the NRS website, but I'm wondering if the shaft part is machined smooth like the Superston oarlocks are? Forged Aluminum is very tough stuff, and I'm sure you wouldn't run into any strength issues.
> 
> I'm surprised to hear of people having to beat their oarlocks back into shape. I can't imagine what kind of force would bend one? Maybe getting drug upside down on the the river bottom on a flipped boat, or smashed hard into a wall? I would be very reluctant to beat on one. I think most bronze ones are are cast, and I can't imagine they are very malleable?
> 
> ...


I run them on both my boats that see decent water up to class 3 and they seem solid so far over 3 seasons.

I've even popped and oar and got it back it fast, as advertised. That actually happened when I went into a wall with enough force to bend a carlisle oar but the oar locks were 100% fine.

I should add that I'm on the newer "open" version... made resetting a popped oar super easy.

The other 2 really nice features for me are:

1. The oarlock shaft is long and I can use spacers to change the oar height without buying new oar stands.

2. Because of the gimbal I never have to worry about the oar locks restricting the oar movement if I decide to change the oarlock spacing... it just adapts and I don't have to change my frame or my oars.

Just my 0.02


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## Grifgav (Jun 20, 2011)

Pine said:


> I'm surprised to hear of people having to beat their oarlocks back into shape. I can't imagine what kind of force would bend one? Maybe getting drug upside down on the the river bottom on a flipped boat, or smashed hard into a wall? I would be very reluctant to beat on one. I think most bronze ones are are cast, and I can't imagine they are very malleable?


















you mean like this?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

You can straighten them with a torch. It's fairly malleable when hot.
Better than repeated cold straightening which will fatigue them.


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

A comment I noticed from building my rig. Split rings didn't mesh well with my DRE oar towers. The rings interfered with the towers themselves and bent/broke and I found one between my tubes and floor. Puncture waiting to happen. Best to go with threaded oarlocks if you're using DRE towers.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Split rings work OK with springs, but aren't a great idea otherwise. If you crab an oar, they'll bind in any tower. I usually toss mine and use an 1/8" lynch pin.
You can also retain them with a loop of paracord back to the oar tower--it worked for centuries before we started threading oarlocks.

But threaded locks are cool. If you don't have them, you can thread your own for about the same cost as the upgrade--plus another 4 sets:








Amazon.com: 5/8-18 Thin Nylock Nuts, NTE Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nut, Zinc - U-Turn (50 Pack) : Industrial & Scientific


Buy 5/8-18 Thin Nylock Nuts, NTE Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nut, Zinc - U-Turn (50 Pack): Locknuts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com













GEARWRENCH 5/8 x 18 NF Hex Die - 82866N - - Amazon.com


GEARWRENCH 5/8 x 18 NF Hex Die - 82866N - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

I had springs, still didn't work well. I threaded them myself.


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## Pine (Aug 15, 2017)

Grifgav said:


> View attachment 68694
> View attachment 68695
> 
> you mean like this?


Crap, how did that happen?


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## Bootboy (Aug 25, 2020)

What thread size/pitch did you use?


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Bootboy said:


> What thread size/pitch did you use?


5/8-11 (UNC) and a nylon locknut. Same size that they come threaded in.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I assumed the factory ones were fine pitch. Thanks for the correction, tBatt


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Hmm. Looking at a pic of Saywer's threaded oarlocks, they do appear to be UNF. Makes sense as the minor diameter is larger than UNC therefore stronger. I was going off an old set of pins I have.


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## Bootboy (Aug 25, 2020)

tBatt said:


> Hmm. Looking at a pic of Saywer's threaded oarlocks, they do appear to be UNF. Makes sense as the minor diameter is larger than UNC therefore stronger. I was going off an old set of pins I have.


I’m thinking 5/8-18 if I end up threading them. It’s handy that the shanks are turned between centers so you put them right back in a lathe and they run true.

I want the threaded portion the shank to be shorter than the stock length so the threads don’t contact my bushings inside the tower bores. 

I’ve tried a couple different retention methods with the springs and washers and just can’t settle on something I like. 

Im going to do black Nylon or Delrin washers and a stainless Nylock nut. Maybe even an acorn nut with blue Loctite for a really clean look.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Acorn nut would look sweet...might be harder to find in 5/8-18?
Edit: nope, they're available








Nickel-Plated Brass Acorn Nut, USA Made, 5/8"-18 Thread Size, 15/16" Width Across Flats, 3/4" Height, 7/16" Minimum Thread Depth (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Nickel-Plated Brass Acorn Nut, USA Made, 5/8"-18 Thread Size, 15/16" Width Across Flats, 3/4" Height, 7/16" Minimum Thread Depth (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com





I did bronze bearings in the oarlock stanchions in my last dory...they're buttery smooth and don't require any additional lubrication
If you're into machining your own stuff, it's worth considering.








McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


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## Grifgav (Jun 20, 2011)

Pine said:


> Crap, how did that happen?


boat went through most of elkhorn rapid on the main salmon upside down.


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## zbaird (Oct 11, 2003)

It happens. These both went when I flipped in Crystal as a kid. Glad it threw me far and wide away from the forces that be as the hole thumped the boat.


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

I'm a Cobra guy so grain of salt here. Looks like a solution looking for a problem. But some people do like fancy things so I'm sure you'll sell some. How much weight would someone really save on oar locks?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Conundrum said:


> I'm a Cobra guy so grain of salt here. Looks like a solution looking for a problem. But some people do like fancy things so I'm sure you'll sell some. How much weight would someone really save on oar locks?


Did you check out the new Sawyer Canyon locks? I was impressed.

I have NRS unobtanium Atomic aluminum locks on my stern frame. I like them for weight on a boat that can be easily carried/portaged, but I'm pretty sure they're hard enough to break an oar. Hard to beat a manganese bronze lock that will pop when it needs to.


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

Have not tried Canyons? I don't stand up to row though. Can't imagine they would feather that much better than a worn in Cobra and rope wrap but color me curious. I've got Cobras on both my boats and Cobra spares in the repair kit. Hoping that whoever inherits my gear when I die will probably never have to buy new locks either.

I'd probably try any oar lock once but going on 20 years with Cobras with no troubles so doubt I would buy anything even after trying them. I've busted one NRS lock on a borrowed boat when another boat pushed me into a wall and a rock was perfect height to shear the lock off at the top of the tower. I've always wondered if a Cobra would have sheared.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Pretty sure NRS and Sawyer use a similar manganese bronze alloy for their locks, so it's likely a Cobra would also have sheared. They're not unbreakable, but are damn tough.

Do you wax your ropes? I find it to be a bit smoother. I did try tallow, but found it somewhat stickier than wax or dry rope.


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## BenSlaughter (Jun 16, 2017)

MT4Runner said:


> Pretty sure NRS and Sawyer use a similar manganese bronze alloy for their locks, so it's likely a Cobra would also have sheared. They're not unbreakable, but are damn tough.
> 
> Do you wax your ropes? I find it to be a bit smoother. I did try tallow, but found it somewhat stickier than wax or dry rope.


I'm not sure why I haven't thought of wax. Any particular type?
Melt it on, or just rub\burnish it?


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

I don't wax but maybe I should. I've always been a not broke, don't fix guy. On one boat, the ropes are so worn and smooth, I don't want to mess with them. I bet they have over 5,000 miles on them. On my 2 year old oars, they are just starting to wear in and get that nice brassy color. Starting to get smooth and are already silent so haven't messed with them. Probably somewhere between 500-1,000 miles on these.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Smoother with wax..just regular paraffin.
...but the caveat is that sand will stick to wax and they will wear sooner. And even more so with tallow, so don't let anyone else lay your oars in the sand!

I first put it on by rub/burnishing it on a 95°F day. Then tried melted wax/disposable brush/heat gun.


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## Sawatch Rescue (Apr 17, 2010)

You'll have a hard time in the field retuning / reshaping a Cobra if it takes a hit.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Repeatedly using a rock...or pipe at home...will work-harden bronze and make it more brittle.
If you've had to do this multiple times, use an OA or mapp gas torch, heat it to a very very dull red (not cherry) and adjust as necessary with some light hammer taps and allow to air cool. If you don't have to adjust, you can simply heat-temper-air cool and relieve the work hardening.

You can also water quench it, but that will anneal it softer than the air cool (I know, opposite of steel).


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

Sawatch Rescue said:


> You'll have a hard time in the field retuning / reshaping a Cobra if it takes a hit.



I've never bent one but if I do, I've got two extra in my dry box. I'll heat and shape back at home. Clearly I don't consider the weight of my oar locks when going boating.


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## Sawatch Rescue (Apr 17, 2010)

Conundrum said:


> I've never bent one but if I do, I've got two extra in my dry box. I'll heat and shape back at home. Clearly I don't consider the weight of my oar locks when going boating.


 I don’t see weight as an issue either. I’m simply noting that Cobras are more difficult to repair / adjust in the field. If your perceived benefits of running Cobras outweighs the negatives then go for it. If you want a lock that is easier to maintain in the field, there are numerous better options. Choices abound.


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## Montet202 (Aug 22, 2020)

I prefer lighter oarlocks so I can haul an extra case of wobbly pops.


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## zcollier (Jan 1, 2004)

NRS Atomic and Superston oar locks don't have any give so they are more likely to break oars than Sawyer "A" locks and Cobras. Here's a video:


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