# Offseason trailer inspection; friendly reminder



## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

Last week I had the misfortune of contracting and testing positive for COVID-19, which caused me to miss an annual daytrip me and about 20 buddies do on the Bighorn every winter called the Freeze-To-Death Float. While I wallowed in my sorrows over missing the one opportunity to float during winter I decided I'd try to be productive during my isolation since my symptoms were manageable. One item on my to-do list is to re-deck my raft trailer so this morning I went under the trailer on a creeper to begin chopping the rusted carriage bolts that were (kind of) securing the existing decking. While under the trailer I decided to do a quick inspection and almost immediately found leaf spring cracked clean-through at the mounting hole. I realized that if I had gone on the Bighorn trip, I almost certainly would have had a disaster about midway there, while still in the dark. I dodged a bullet that would have been a very bad day, at minimum. If there was ANY silver lining to getting COVID, this was it.
Anyway, I felt compelled to share my close call in hopes of motivating the rest of you to give your rigs a quick look and solve any potential issues now, while it's convenient and without consequence. Wish me luck on my re-deck and leaf spring replacement, cheers!
P.S. Don't get COVID, it sucks.


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## 2tomcat2 (May 27, 2012)

Yes, thanks for the reminder. We use our utility trailer for hauling, our stuff, friends and family stuff, etc., so it is well used and loved
Last May returning to CO from AZ, noticed a loud noise pulling into Salida...broke a leaf spring, Sunday evening, of course
Hammer and duct tape with slow driving limped home and looked into replacements (both sides); 3-4 week wait time with a Deso trip right around the corner!
Luckily a friend of ours was able to do the job and the trailer just keeps on keeping on...


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Damn those dirt roads we have to use, hard on the gear for sure. Good catch, you likely saved yourself a load of grief. Don't forget to repack your bearings too


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

YIKES!


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

OMGitsCasey said:


> Last week I had the misfortune of contracting and testing positive for COVID-19, which caused me to miss an annual daytrip me and about 20 buddies do on the Bighorn every winter called the Freeze-To-Death Float.
> 
> P.S. Don't get COVID, it sucks.


Thanks for the post. How are you doing?


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

I had to do a serious rebuild to my trailer last summer. Rebuild cost more than the original 2005 price of the trailer. Trailer is much better rebuilt than it was new so you should target that perspective to soften the blow and not think twice.

My original trailer had exposed plywood decks that were secured in place by self tapping screws from above. As many decking screws barely hit or missed the aluminum frame as made solid anchors. I suggest bolting decking down assuring you make your deck solid and secure. However, before I bolted down the final time I sealed the plywood and then covered the top surface with W.R. Grace Bituthene that I had left over from a roofing project. The bituthene rapped up all around on trailer edges hence the plywood decking top surfaces will never get wet and rot. Cheaper (adhesive) tarpaper would also work. On top of the bituthene I put down indoor outdoor carpet available fairly dirt cheap from Home Depot in 12' widths. Next I used snow mobile HDPE skids to slicken up the deck surface so that boats slide on effortlessly. All topping materials are held down by the secure bolts and extra large fender washers. Obviously, what I did nearly wore out my creeper, well, if not the creeper it wore out a lot of me.

Looks like your trailer frame is steel and is not a tilt bed anyway. But I had to spend a lot of money rebuilding the tilt pivots in a aluminum trailer. If you do have a tilt pivot I suggest that you add securing points such that road vibration is not all absorbed at the pivot joints. In my case the pivot release did not do that. What I did to make the tilt deck one with the lower trailer was to add large I bolts that I run cam straps thru and around lower trailer angle members. The trailer used to sound like I was pulling a 55 gallon drum full of wrenches. Now it is dead quiet.

Good luck on you redeck and leaf spring replacement.


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## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

GeoRon said:


> Thanks for the post. How are you doing?


I'm getting better, still have some congestion in my lungs but the coughing, headaches, and fatigue have gone away. I still can't smell a thing; I never did lose my taste though, which I'm very thankful for. I've also never had a fever, which seems uncommon. After experiencing this I can definitely see how it can take a toll on people that are more vulnerable.
Thanks for asking!


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

How is your family? Were you able to "contain" it. I hope you are all doing well.

Watch out for them dirt roads! They are killers. Especially that road into Sand Wash.

BTW, what do you think or where do you think you did in your leaf springs? Did you double or triple up rafts? That kill one of my trailers. Another was destroyed by something called "Vado" or something like that in Baja California, what ever that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me as to what that means?


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## 2tomcat2 (May 27, 2012)

an acronym that stands for "Violence And Drugs Only - Vado ?? GeoRon....good river vibes to you for showing care and compassion in this discussion....can we hope it will last?
I believe.


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## ColoradoDave (Jun 3, 2010)

Be nice


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Or just put him on the ignore list..


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

2tomcat2 said:


> an acronym that stands for "Violence And Drugs Only - Vado ?? GeoRon....good river vibes to you for showing care and compassion in this discussion....can we hope it will last?
> I believe.


Actually, in Baja when you see "Peligro Vado" it means slow down because you are approaching a dangerous water crossing which when dry generally includes a ditch crossing. My brother-in-law "no comprendo'ed" and didn't slow down. It was an inside joke to people who have driven the Peninsula before.


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## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

GeoRon said:


> How is your family? Were you able to "contain" it. I hope you are all doing well.
> 
> Watch out for them dirt roads! They are killers. Especially that road into Sand Wash.
> 
> BTW, what do you think or where do you think you did in your leaf springs? Did you double or triple up rafts? That kill one of my trailers. Another was destroyed by something called "Vado" or something like that in Baja California, what ever that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me as to what that means?


Family is all good, they've just isolated with me and haven't seemed to catch it, strangely.
I'm thinking the springs just gave in to age. I only haul my loaded Zephyr, no doubles or triples, and my 125 shuttle bike rides in the bed of the truck. The fella that I bought the trailer from in ~2013 was using it for four-wheelers so there may have been some abuse then but I don't think anything that would have overloaded the axle.


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## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

GeoRon said:


> I had to do a serious rebuild to my trailer last summer. Rebuild cost more than the original 2005 price of the trailer. Trailer is much better rebuilt than it was new so you should target that perspective to soften the blow and not think twice.
> 
> My original trailer had exposed plywood decks that were secured in place by self tapping screws from above. As many decking screws barely hit or missed the aluminum frame as made solid anchors. I suggest bolting decking down assuring you make your deck solid and secure. However, before I bolted down the final time I sealed the plywood and then covered the top surface with W.R. Grace Bituthene that I had left over from a roofing project. The bituthene rapped up all around on trailer edges hence the plywood decking top surfaces will never get wet and rot. Cheaper (adhesive) tarpaper would also work. On top of the bituthene I put down indoor outdoor carpet available fairly dirt cheap from Home Depot in 12' widths. Next I used snow mobile HDPE skids to slicken up the deck surface so that boats slide on effortlessly. All topping materials are held down by the secure bolts and extra large fender washers. Obviously, what I did nearly wore out my creeper, well, if not the creeper it wore out a lot of me.
> 
> ...


I am threatening to use self-drillers for my new decking unless I can be talked out of it. I know The limitations of them and I intend to space them pretty tightly, around 8" or so. My steel frame is 2x3x1/8" rectangle tubing around the perimeter and 2x2x3/16" angle crossmembers, so I'm fairly confident there's enough "meat" for the screws to hold. The other option I'm looking into (pictured below) is fanged stainless elevator bolts. The fanged heads have barbs that sink into the decking material to prevent the dreaded spins. I'm waiting for a quote back from my hardware supplier for those. I don't expect them to be cheap which is fine, but I'm not sure that the fanged stainless ones are made in the 4" length that I need to get through my 3/4" decking and the 3" tall tubing, if they do, however, that's the route I'll go. I have a buddy dropping off leaf springs to much doorstep today so that will buy me more time to think about my fastener controversy. I'm also considering welding in a locking oar compartment beneath the deck, with a hatch at the rear of the trailer because as you mentioned, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I don't have a tilt deck but my trailer had a built-in four-wheeler ramp that tucked away beneath the deck that always rattled like drum-o-wrenches you mentioned, so the ramp had to go.


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

Those stainless winged post bolts gotta cost a bundle.

I drilled from above then used appropriate length pan head bolt thru largest washer possible above and below a plated washer and stainless aircraft nylon lock nut. I cut off too-long bolts below and deburred with file. I didn't want to grind off bolt for fear of what the heat might do to the nylon in the lock washer. What I did is not a one person job.


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## [email protected] (Jun 1, 2010)

Really good reminder to check our trailers. I did my rebuilds last fall (added six rollers). Everything but the lights, always save that for just before going rafting, since the rabbits in my area love wiring. I have three family members that have or had covid. They all got it at work, no question about that and did not give it to anyone else in their three different households (one being mine). They all live in households that practice hand washing and social distancing (even at home when reasonable). Thus is why I think they did not share with friends or family, that and a little luck. Two had mild symptoms, headache and loss of taste, one 60 days later still a little foggy (sick for 4 weeks).

Be lucky, be careful, stay well and check those leaf springs


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## okieboater (Oct 19, 2004)

Trailer rebuilds must be catching to us Buzzards.
I got home last September from a late season main salmon float and discovered my utility trailer with add on wings to carry my inflated raft had rotted out under neath the outdoor carpet. I redesigned and rebuilt the plywood wings. Used a marine paint that dries to a semi gloss feels slick like fiberglass finish. Got the snow machine slick plastic sections as mentioned by GeoRon. The paint ended up being so slick I did not install plastic skids but I have them packed away if the paint only does not work out.


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## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

GeoRon said:


> Those stainless winged post bolts gotta cost a bundle.


Got my quote today from Tacoma Screw and it was $83.00 for 100 of them, which is better than I expected. Unfortunately, the longest they make is 3.5"... of course, I need 4", so self-drillers it is! I replaced both sets of leaf springs today, and replaced one wheel bearing. Also today, I did a "contactless" pickup at Pacific Steel of material for the locking oar compartment. Now I just need to decide what to finish/coat the decking with...


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## OMGitsCasey (Mar 31, 2016)

Nearly finished with the trailer upgrade now. Decided to add the oar compartment beneath the deck and it's going to be sweet; I just need to build and install the door. I used Cabot Deck Correct over the NEW plywood and I'm quite pleased with it. It uses tiny polycarbonate grains suspended in the coating. It has just enough texture but certainly isn't rough; it's similar to the texture on a Maravia. I did use the self-drillers, and spaced them on roughly <8" centers so I'm fairly confident they'll hold up for the long run. I'll post the complete finished product in Trailer Porn.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

OMGitsCasey said:


> Nearly finished with the trailer upgrade now. Decided to add the oar compartment beneath the deck and it's going to be sweet; I just need to build and install the door. I used Cabot Deck Correct over the NEW plywood and I'm quite pleased with it. It uses tiny polycarbonate grains suspended in the coating. It has just enough texture but certainly isn't rough; it's similar to the texture on a Maravia. I did use the self-drillers, and spaced them on roughly <8" centers so I'm fairly confident they'll hold up for the long run. I'll post the complete finished product in Trailer Porn.


_low whistle_

Beautifully done!


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