# Oarlock play



## Stiff N' Wett (Feb 18, 2010)

I noticed last week that I have play in my cobras and my nrs towers. answers anyone?


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Oar towers wear. They will loosen up over time, especially if you are running in silty water a lot of the time. Huge numbers of people use grease and sunscreen and other nasties to lube their locks in the towers. Unfortuately these items attract and hold silt and grit, which acts as an abrasive on the brass. This will wear the shafts quickly and loosen the locks in the tower. I have been using Dr. Bronners soap for the last 15 years to clean and lube my locks and towers. My personal towers use Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene as a bushing in the aluminum pipe. My first set of bushings is ready to be replaced after about 10 years of service and hundreds of river days. I think that is a pretty good life span for plastic bushings. Keep them clean and smooth operating with DR. BRONNERS! It really does work!


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## kazak4x4 (May 25, 2009)

So do I replace the cobras or the oar towers? Also, do I put grease in or keep them dry? I put the marine grease that I fill my trailer hubs with, seemed to work...


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Kazak,
I would remove the brass from the towers you have and try to fit them in new towers to see if they are tight (or you can check them with a caliper, they should measure .625"). If they are loose in new towers then the brass will probably need to be replaced.
Absolutely LEAVE THEM DRY!! Only add something when squeaks begin and then only use BRONNERS. Another advantage is that you will not get greasy black crap all over your gear!


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## kazak4x4 (May 25, 2009)

Yup, that's exactly what I am getting. Thanks man, will order Bronners now.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

My pleasure Kazak! Let us know how things buff out for you!


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## matt cook (Dec 15, 2009)

a little sunscreen, water spit or silicon based dry fly floatant (gink) works great to get the squeeks out. I've been rowing for ten years and it's hard to remember a frame that didn't have play in the locks, I guess it has just become an accepted fact of life for me. It really doesn't bother me until a long row out with fat asshole guests on a day when I'm already pissed off.
Hey GC Guide-what type (certain brand or custom made?) of oar towers are you running to get the space for a bushing between the lock shaft and the hole in the tower? sounds like a good design. most of the drift boats i've used have uhwp to hold the locks and they are smooth, tight, and clean-no grease or aluminum dust coming out all over your boat


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Matt,
Sunscreen attracts grit and keeps it grinding RUINING towers and locks. Believe me! I have fixed literally hundreds of them! Bronners rinses grit out. 

The lock towers I use are a custom design built by my company. I use 1 1/2" sch. 80 pipe and machine the plastic bushing to fit the pipe snuggly. Then I drill the center to 5/8" on the lathe. The 2 1/2" long plastic bushing is then inserted and setscrewed in place in the pipe. I run a 5/8" hand reamer through to smooth the setscrew bumps and insert the brass, which has been prethreaded and use a nylock nut to finish it.


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## kazak4x4 (May 25, 2009)

Do you ever sell those?


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## matt cook (Dec 15, 2009)

GC Guide said:


> Matt,
> Sunscreen attracts grit and keeps it grinding RUINING towers and locks. Believe me! I have fixed literally hundreds of them! Bronners rinses grit out.
> 
> The lock towers I use are a custom design built by my company. I use 1 1/2" sch. 80 pipe and machine the plastic bushing to fit the pipe snuggly. Then I drill the center to 5/8" on the lathe. The 2 1/2" long plastic bushing is then inserted and setscrewed in place in the pipe. I run a 5/8" hand reamer through to smooth the setscrew bumps and insert the brass, which has been prethreaded and use a nylock nut to finish it.


they aint my frames, they belong to my boss, and he doesn't give a shit! just kidding. I used some of the spray on sunscreen the other day and it seemed to work well and not be sticky, although I usually just throw some water on em. We use steel towers too, so not a lot of wear there. 
GC G-you should produce and sell some o them towers. Do you work for PRO?


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## kengore (May 29, 2008)

I wouldn't be too concerned about a 1/32" of play. I've never seen a thole pin set up that was even close to that tight! 

Keep and eye on them and when the wear gets too big for your comfort I would just drill it out and add a bronze bushing to the oar tower. If you don't have the tools or time any decent machine shop could do it for alot less than new towers.

bronze bushing...
Sintered Bronze Bushing,Sintered Bronze Bushings,Bronze Bushing Suppliers,Bushing Supplier

My local hardware store has bronze bushings in over 6 sizes for aout $4 each.


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## constructeur (Feb 27, 2012)

A guy could use Delrin as a bomber bushing material as well.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Delrin works well! The hardest part of that is center drilling the the aluminum slug (PRO style oar tower) to 13/16 or 53/64 for the premade Delrin sleeves to press into. It should be done on a mill or a lathe and you need a REALLY sharp bit and a great eye. I found that to be a pain in the arse. They too loosen over time and are difficult to replace when they are worn. Just MY honest opinion based on MY experience.


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## DrBigDog (Apr 15, 2009)

*oar lock play*

I use the play to change the angle of the blades,depending on what I want to do. It's subtle, but has applications.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Actually Constructuer, the delrin may be a good choice! I will get some in and give it a shot in the near future. I will try to row them on my July trip and report back. Thanks!


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## constructeur (Feb 27, 2012)

right on man. I used to get delrin bushings for my old mk1 vw's to tighten up the shifting and I never wore em' out. Stuff's self lubricating iirc as well. Post up and share your results, or if you get something to market.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Wow, the delrin is pricey! It runs nearly 10 bucks a foot! Could add a few bucks to the cost of each tower, but it may be worth it! I'll keep you posted as I have placed the order for the plastic. Hopefully I can have the machining done by next week.......


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## barcolounger (Mar 31, 2011)

Looks like Sawyer sells plastic bushings, here's the link.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

Again, the O.D. on those (Sawyer) sleeves is 13/16" to 63/64", the I.D. is 5/8". Most towers are a 5/8" I.D. hole


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## watermonkey (Aug 11, 2009)

I just got done this morning replacing my NRS towers with AAA towers and noticed the play in them. So I pulled the oarlock out, put it back in the NRS tower, and had the same play. So I figured the oarlock shafts were worn down and pulled out my never been used spare - same story on both sets of towers, both sides. A little bit of play that I never noticed before, and apparently it hasn't bothered me before either. I don't consider it a problem.


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## kazak4x4 (May 25, 2009)

watermonkey said:


> I just got done this morning replacing my NRS towers with AAA towers and noticed the play in them. So I pulled the oarlock out, put it back in the NRS tower, and had the same play. So I figured the oarlock shafts were worn down and pulled out my never been used spare - same story on both sets of towers, both sides. A little bit of play that I never noticed before, and apparently it hasn't bothered me before either. I don't consider it a problem.


Hey thanks monkey, it never bothered me either until my friend pointed it out to me.


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## GC Guide (Apr 10, 2009)

If you don't notice it, who cares? When you do notice, it's time to do something different! Cheers all! Fun thread! I like to hear people's thoughts on gear that I am intimate with! (NO not like that, freaks!)


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