# Four Bay Frames



## TriBri1

So it seems like most of the four bay frames I am seeing on the river and commercially built are setup as follows:
(First Photo, Salmon River Expedition Frame by Cambridge Welding)
Bay 1 Drybox or table and drop bag
Bay 2 Cooler
Bay 3 Rower Compartment
Bay 4 Drybox (as seat)

But on the Grand Canyon the dominant setup was as follows:
(Second Photo, Frame by Artisan Metal Works. I find this the sexiest raft frame ever.)
Bay 1 Drop bag
Bay 2 Rower compartment
Bay 3 Cooler (as seat)
Bay 4 Drop bag

I see the advantage of having the cooler and drybox in front in order to get more weight up front, but I like the idea of running a Grand Canyon style setup with a table and drop bag in back that I can line a row of drybags.

Thoughts?


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## Avatard

I think those captain boxes dont give yo a lot of room for feet. Are you an amputee?


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## TriBri1

I ran the same frame on the GC, I thought the same thing until I got on the water. You would be amazed at how little space you need. I think there is about 15" for your legs.The setup I am building has 20"


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## asleep.at.the.oars

An extra bay between you and passengers = fewer oars in peoples backs when you're transitioning to "plan B" in a rapid. 

I can place a single Bills Bag 3.8 upright behind my seat and have a lumbar support - and it doesn't take much of a dunnage pile to have a full back rest. Pinching 2-3 bags behind me along that back bar is pretty similar to the pile on the deck of a Grand boat, but lower profile and you can get into all your bays all the time.


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## Osprey

What size boat? The thing with an 18' grand boat is how much extra room you have, both length and width. Trying to do that on a narrower boat I can easily see beaning the passengers with an oar. might be worth calling PRO and getting the dimensions. All that stuff is so much bigger, perspective scaling it down is tough. Sounds good in theory, or could also just add a trailer frame to an existing setup. Kind of depends on how big you can make those captains boxes since they are huge on those boats and you won't be able to carry another dry box.


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## TriBri1

Osprey said:


> What size boat? The thing with an 18' grand boat is how much extra room you have, both length and width. Trying to do that on a narrower boat I can easily see beaning the passengers with an oar. might be worth calling PRO and getting the dimensions. All that stuff is so much bigger, perspective scaling it down is tough. Sounds good in theory, or could also just add a trailer frame to an existing setup. Kind of depends on how big you can make those captains boxes since they are huge on those boats and you won't be able to carry another dry box.


My boat is 14ft, the PRO boat was 16ft. The captain's boxes on my boat are going to be slightly wider than a rocket box. On mt 12.5ft I used rockets boxes and they fit just right.

I forgot about the oars flipping forward issue, I had a few forceful "excuse me" moments in the 16ft.


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## Osprey

oh, we had the 18' PRO setup and I came home and wondered how I make it in my 14'. You're not going to get a lot of storage out of those captains boxes. I'm just not sure I'd trade a full sized dry box for a second drop bag.


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## TriBri1

Osprey said:


> oh, we had the 18' PRO setup and I came home and wondered how I make it in my 14'. You're not going to get a lot of storage out of those captains boxes. I'm just not sure I'd trade a full sized dry box for a second drop bag.


My four bays are going to be a cooler, narrow dry box, drop bag with a table as a lid and the rowers compartment with two 20"x12" captain's boxes. Of course I am dropping a mint buying all of this new, so the captain's boxes are going to have to wait until next year.


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## riverrunr77

TriBri1 said:


> My four bays are going to be a cooler, narrow dry box, drop bag with a table as a lid and the rowers compartment with two 20"x12" captain's boxes. Of course I am dropping a mint buying all of this new, so the captain's boxes are going to have to wait until next year.


 
Your shopping at the wrong place then , like Bax. If that is the sexiest raft frame ever I have to wonder what they put in the water in portland


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## BCJ

Two storage bays in front of the rower's bay does prevent the oar-in-the-back problem. Also gets more weight forward. If anything, I'd set it up for the big cooler and drybox in front, and sit on a drop bag, for better weight distribution. On my boat I sit on the cooler, which is often heavier than the drop bag, which is up front. My only other preference is I had my dryboxes built, rather than off-the-shelf. Reason: The main drybox is wide enough to fill the boat side to side, and it and both captain's boxes are only 15" tall, instead of 16", with hang tabs up near the lid, so they sit lower down in the boat. Gives me a relatively flat low-profile walk-around area. I don't care for the drybox hangers or anything that makes the box stick up 2-3" above the frame, though I understand it is necessary in some boats to keep it off the self-bailing floor. But that said I'd rather have a shallower box that I can still keep off the floor than a box that sits way up above the frame.


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## brandob9

On that Plan B topic, my "zone of exclusion" runs to be anything within 4' of me forward, just as a reference point.


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## GC Guide

Thanks Tribri1, we think they are sexy too (and the water in Flagstaff is good)!! Avatard, there really is plenty of space for your feet and legs in that setup. It looks narrow but usually rower bracing is fore and aft as opposed to port and starbord (ie: a wide stance doesn't help alot). Osprey, we can put captains boxes as large as 17" x 26" x 14 tall in a 16' rig. That is a huge amount of space. BCJ, I too am not a fan of the box hangers. The cross boxes and coolers can hang from sling straps to be adjustable in height for any preference. As for banging passengers with the sticks...... I usually request that all front row passengers sit forward on the front seat. It is safer and more stable for them to have their feet pressed to the floor, and they are out of the way should an oar get sucked and they will not get blown into my footwell with a big hit!! Cheers!!


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## shappattack

BCJ said:


> I don't care for the drybox hangers or anything that makes the box stick up 2-3" above the frame, though I understand it is necessary in some boats to keep it off the self-bailing floor. But that said I'd rather have a shallower box that I can still keep off the floor than a box that sits way up above the frame.


100% agree, mine are 15" as well for the same reason.


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## AvonRafter

16' boat - I run drop bag front, with a homemade table (birch plywood coated with water based spar varnish, with folding legs (narrow - made for display tables), big cooler (150) next, rowers compartment with drop floor (love it) with 2 rocket boxes (bolted low profile brackets to the floor for straps for the boxes), rowing seat mounted to a sliding bracket on dry box. Issue are rust on sliding seat track and gear in the back tends to settle up against the back of the seat making it hard to get into the dry box, usually just make sure I have everything I need during the day in the rocket boxes. Bought a river bag last year for the back - it's great. wishes are a double rail frame to make walking around the outside easier and captains boxes (curved to fit close to the tubes).


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## GC Guide

Wow! Boxes curved to the tubes? I hope that you have a trust fund! That can be built, and we have done it for the USGS, but it was pricey for our Uncle Sam!


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## AvonRafter

Curved - hadn't really thought of the cost - sure would be cool though to maximize the space inside the box, might crack there too since you couldn't fold the edge over. Guess I was just dreaming!


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## Avatard

AvonRafter said:


> Curved - hadn't really thought of the cost - sure would be cool though to maximize the space inside the box, might crack there too since you couldn't fold the edge over. Guess I was just dreaming!


Good spot to stow a drybag with rescue rope. Also look into whitewater designs they make a mesh bag curved to the tubes great space to stow sunscreen, misc stuff that can get wet but you want easy access to.


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## cataraftgirl

Avatard said:


> Also look into whitewater designs they make a mesh bag curved to the tubes great space to stow sunscreen, misc stuff that can get wet but you want easy access to.


I love my side saddle bags from Cascade Outfitters. I have one on each side in my rower bay. They don't intrude into the rower space at all. Sunscreen, small pelican case with glasses, extra hat & rain gear in a small dry bag. Lots of little stuff that I want handy goes in them.
KJ


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## Pcdc2

I run a 4 bay frame on my AIRE 156r. I thought about and debated the two options you mentioned for a while TriBRi. I finally went with the second (grand style) option where I have a drop bag/table in the front bay, cockpit, cooler (that I sit on with a paco pad), dry box. 

I like my setup so far, with it I was able to get my oar towers right in the center of the boat. There is the occasional need to yell at passengers in the front so they don't get hit in the back with an oar, but I find its really not that big of an issue 99% of the time. I like the dry box behind my seat because I can do several things...1. put gear back there so I have a back rest to lean on, 2. Let passengers hang out there if I have a bunch of people on my boat, and 3. Store my kayak there when I bring it along (also works as a back rest and can use the kayak cockpit to throw random stuff in throughout the day, which is nice). 

I also have a medium sized cooler I keep in my cockpit to my right that I load with beer and booze every morning so I dont have to worry about getting in the main cooler. 

I can see the pro's and con's of both setups, but I am happy with mine for now. I figure if I ever want to change it up, it will be pretty easy for me to drill some holes to lock the oar towers in a different position, and move the bay I sit in.


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## TriBri1

Today is the day, the raft and frame parts are sitting in the garage, time to figure out how I'm going to set it up... Where to start? I'm going to resist the urge to inflate it first and wait until the frame is together.


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## Pcdc2

Nice! I remember that feeling, was the best! I would inflate it man, I found it really helpful while figuring out exactly how I wanted to build my frame. Having my boat inflated next to me made it so I could mock things up before I committed, get it just right.


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## Avatard

TriBri1 said:


> Today is the day, the raft and frame parts are sitting in the garage, time to figure out how I'm going to set it up... Where to start? I'm going to resist the urge to inflate it first and wait until the frame is together.


I would first fill that jug with a whole lotta beer


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## TriBri1

Avatard said:


> I would first fill that jug with a whole lotta beer


I just happen to have a bucket with five gallons of beer almost ready to drink.


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## GC Guide

Get that 5 gallon on and set it up!


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## TriBri1

Setting the frame took a little longer than expected after finishing off the jug, but here is my perfect garage setup.

[Bow]
Bay 1 Table w/dropbag and paco pad for the bow babe
Bay 2 Drybox
Bay 3 Oarsman and captain boxes
Bay 4 Cooler to be used as a seat.
[Stern]

Can't wait to see if I like it on the river as much as I like it in the garage.


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## cataraftgirl

Looks great. Gotta love a bright shiny new boat !!!! Did the foot bar turn out the way you wanted? It looks good.
KJ


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## lhowemt

You may find you'll want taller oar towers, sitting up on a cooler


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## nicho

Nice set up looks a lot like mine. In the two photos in original post you do have two bays between you and passengers in both setups unless I am missing something.


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## wildh2onriver

Nice setup! You might look into a clamshell style drop bag for the stern. Stitches'n'such is where I bought mine and i love the workmanship and service/price.


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## TriBri1

lhowemt said:


> You may find you'll want taller oar towers, sitting up on a cooler


I picked up the taller oar towers. They worked great for my last setup which had similar angles. 

@KT, so far the foot bar looks great. I have not drilled the set holes yet, but think I have it measured out right. 

Next up is building the side rails and drop floor.


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## cataraftgirl

TriBri1 said:


> I picked up the taller oar towers. They worked great for my last setup which had similar angles.
> 
> @KT, so far the foot bar looks great. I have not drilled the set holes yet, but think I have it measured out right.
> 
> Next up is building the side rails and drop floor.


Keep me posted on how the adjustable foot bar idea works.
KJ


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## GC Guide

Careful! Most fittings come with set screws that are made to drill into the aluminum. They look like a star at the contact end of the screw. They get drilled into frames all the time and it keeps my company in business with repairs. You could consider drilling and pinning the foot bar in position. On the boats we row, we have an aluminum drop floor and run two 50 cal ammo cans against the front of the foot well and use those for a foot brace. It's also very convenient extra storage! 

Hope you don't mind me dropping in my 2 cents worth!


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## Faucet Butt

*Nice Rig!*

That's a slick lookin' unit!

What size boat?
What's the bay size for your cooler and dry box?
How long and wide is your frame?
What's the width oar lock to oar lock?

I'm still contemplating my frame config, but learning towards-from bow back:
1st bay- Drop bag/table for lid
2nd bay- Cooler
3rd bay-Rowing compartment
4th bay/seat- Dry box

I still need to get the dry box and am undecided on the size, but I'm thinking something around 15" high X 15" wide X 42" long.







TriBri1 said:


> Setting the frame took a little longer than expected after finishing off the jug, but here is my perfect garage setup.
> 
> [Bow]
> Bay 1 Table w/dropbag and paco pad for the bow babe
> Bay 2 Drybox
> Bay 3 Oarsman and captain boxes
> Bay 4 Cooler to be used as a seat.
> [Stern]
> 
> Can't wait to see if I like it on the river as much as I like it in the garage.


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## lhowemt

FWIW, there are even taller oar towers than the NRS options, if you find that you need a bit more swing clearance.


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## TriBri1

Faucet Butt said:


> That's a slick lookin' unit!
> 
> What size boat?
> What's the bay size for your cooler and dry box?
> How long and wide is your frame?
> What's the width oar lock to oar lock?
> 
> I'm still contemplating my frame config, but learning towards-from bow back:
> 1st bay- Drop bag/table for lid
> 2nd bay- Cooler
> 3rd bay-Rowing compartment
> 4th bay/seat- Dry box
> 
> I still need to get the dry box and am undecided on the size, but I'm thinking something around 15" high X 15" wide X 42" long.


Boat is an NRS E-140 so 14'
66" wide x 82" long frame. 74" from oar lock to oar lock
Cooler is a 102qt Gott. Basically the same size as a 120qt igloo. 
Dry box is the 38"h x 13"w x16" h
The bays are 15", 15", 24", 17"

The table is 66"x18". I have seen better tables. There is no adjustment cam in the legs. They also have no keeper to hold the legs in the closed position. I am going to make a few modifications to make it work the way I want. 

I considered the dry box in the back as well, but with the cooler in the back it puts my oars closer to the center of the raft.


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## TriBri1

GC Guide said:


> Careful! Most fittings come with set screws that are made to drill into the aluminum. They look like a star at the contact end of the screw. They get drilled into frames all the time and it keeps my company in business with repairs. You could consider drilling and pinning the foot bar in position. On the boats we row, we have an aluminum drop floor and run two 50 cal ammo cans against the front of the foot well and use those for a foot brace. It's also very convenient extra storage!
> 
> Hope you don't mind me dropping in my 2 cents worth!


You can add your $0.04 if you wish. I rowed one of your frames on the GC and loved it. I actually disliked drop floors until that trip. 

I have NRS fittings,so I will measure and drill the holes then use a pin to hold it in place. I may drill a second set of holes to accommodate those with shorter legs. I am still working out if there is enough real estate on the lo-pro to accommodate a second hole.


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## Faucet Butt

*Oars?*

Thanks for the info- what length oars do you plan to use?




TriBri1 said:


> Boat is an NRS E-140 so 14'
> 66" wide x 82" long frame. 74" from oar lock to oar lock
> Cooler is a 102qt Gott. Basically the same size as a 120qt igloo.
> Dry box is the 38"h x 13"w x16" h
> The bays are 15", 15", 24", 17"
> 
> The table is 66"x18". I have seen better tables. There is no adjustment cam in the legs. They also have no keeper to hold the legs in the closed position. I am going to make a few modifications to make it work the way I want.
> 
> I considered the dry box in the back as well, but with the cooler in the back it puts my oars closer to the center of the raft.


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## TriBri1

Faucet Butt said:


> Thanks for the info- what length oars do you plan to use?


I went with 9 1/2ft


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## GC Guide

TriBri1, Thank you! you can check pins that will work for that at: McMaster-Carr

If the frame is made of 1.9" O.D. material there are many options for fittings on a break down. Let me know if you need more info.....


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## Avatard

[QUOTE="

I have NRS fittings,so I will measure and drill the holes then use a pin to hold it in place. I may drill a second set of holes to accommodate those with shorter legs. I am still working out if there is enough real estate on the lo-pro to accommodate a second hole.[/QUOTE]

If you use 1/4" pins it probably wont weaken the lopro too much


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## GC Guide

Well said Avatard!


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## Faucet Butt

*Another question for ya...*

How tall are you/inseam and what length is your rowing compartment?

Thanks-I'm honing in on my final frame specs...






TriBri1 said:


> Setting the frame took a little longer than expected after finishing off the jug, but here is my perfect garage setup.
> 
> [Bow]
> Bay 1 Table w/dropbag and paco pad for the bow babe
> Bay 2 Drybox
> Bay 3 Oarsman and captain boxes
> Bay 4 Cooler to be used as a seat.
> [Stern]
> 
> Can't wait to see if I like it on the river as much as I like it in the garage.


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## TriBri1

Faucet Butt said:


> How tall are you/inseam and what length is your rowing compartment?
> 
> Thanks-I'm honing in on my final frame specs...


Getting a little personal aren't we? I'm 5'10" my rowing compartment is 24" from footbar to the bar on the cooler. I thought it would be a little small at first, but on my last boat it worked perfect. I don't use a seat, so rowers find a comfortable distance to sit on the cooler.


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## Faucet Butt

*Bingo!*

Thanks- that gives me a really good idea of what my overall frame length will be. I think I've got too much time on my hands lately (recovering from surgery)- thinking about boating season a lot since my ski season is shot.

I got a new raft last fall and am looking at having my frame made by aaa- out of denver so I want to have a pretty dialed spec sheet. The next step is to scrape up a bit more cash and bring my rig to their shop and dial in the boat/frame. 

I'm looking at getting a 4 bay, double rail frame, with the front drop bag/table bay being single rail and removable. This would give me a slightly shorter 3 bay frame for day trips and short multi-days-and provide a bit more room up front for paddle-assist. 

Thanks for the beta!





TriBri1 said:


> Getting a little personal aren't we? I'm 5'10" my rowing compartment is 24" from footbar to the bar on the cooler. I thought it would be a little small at first, but on my last boat it worked perfect. I don't use a seat, so rowers find a comfortable distance to sit on the cooler.


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## cataraftgirl

Faucet Butt said:


> Thanks- that gives me a really good idea of what my overall frame length will be. I think I've got too much time on my hands lately (recovering from surgery)- thinking about boating season a lot since my ski season is shot.


I know exactly how you feel. I redesigned my Cat frame last winter while recovering from knee surgery. Tinkering with frame design can be very therapeutic. Not always therapeutic on the wallet though. Have fun, and Happy Healing


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## malloypc

*Footbar tube size*



TriBri1 said:


> so far the foot bar looks great. I have not drilled the set holes yet, but think I have it measured out right.


Which AAA tube size did you get that fits the NRS LoPro fittings?
I'm looking to get a similar footbar to replace the NRS one but NRS specs tube ID as 1-3/8, AAA offers 1-1/4 or 1-1/2.

Thanks,
Jerry


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## TriBri1

malloypc said:


> Which AAA tube size did you get that fits the NRS LoPro fittings?
> I'm looking to get a similar footbar to replace the NRS one but NRS specs tube ID as 1-3/8, AAA offers 1-1/4 or 1-1/2.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jerry


The invoice says 1-1/4". When I ordered I asked them for the size that would fit. They charge more if you get the lo-pro fitting instead of the speedrail. I already had the lo-pros, so they pulled that off the final price.


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## malloypc

TriBri1 said:


> The invoice says 1-1/4". When I ordered I asked them for the size that would fit. They charge more if you get the lo-pro fitting instead of the speedrail. I already had the lo-pros, so they pulled that off the final price.


Have you been able to get the LoPro shaft into the tube?
I only ask because the NRS spec says "Shank outer diameter: 1 3/8 inch" and I'd hate to end up with even an 1/8" mismatch.
NRS LoPro Frame Fittings at NRSweb.com
Thanks,
Jerry


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## TriBri1

malloypc said:


> Have you been able to get the LoPro shaft into the tube?
> I only ask because the NRS spec says "Shank outer diameter: 1 3/8 inch" and I'd hate to end up with even an 1/8" mismatch.
> NRS LoPro Frame Fittings at NRSweb.com
> Thanks,
> Jerry


I had the same concern when ordering. AAA assured me that the NRS fitting work fine and they were right. They fit without and issue, nice and snug just like the stock NRS pipe.


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## pinemnky13

1-1/4" is the inside diameter of the pipe


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## mania

Here is my setup I just put together. Now I just need some decking.


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## TriBri1

mania said:


> Here is my setup I just put together. Now I just need some decking.


Very nice, I like the double rail lo-pro setup.


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## Avatard

TriBri1 said:


> Very nice, I like the double rail lo-pro setup.


I regret not making a 60" sub frame for my 72" cat ...


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## mania

TriBri1 said:


> Very nice, I like the double rail lo-pro setup.


thanks it is a modification of lhowemt's raft frame design


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## GC Guide

We, at Artisan Metal Works have recently figured out a cool way to add removable decks to a frame set up like that. Let me know if you would like more info....


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## clinks

mania said:


> thanks it is a modification of lhowemt's raft frame design


I'd love more info!


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## lhowemt

Here was my post on the first iteration of the frame:

http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f15/frame-pickies-23889.html

I changed it up a bit, replace the "internal" loPro's with speedrail fittings to cut down on weight. I also moved the large bay to the front, and have a drybox there and it's a good seat platform. I use rigid foam next to the drybox to make it the same level so the dogs and passenger have a huge wide place to hang out. Small bay is behind that, still a drop bag, but cover that with polymax for simplicity. On day runs I still do the two piece piano-hinge wood platform and have drop bags in each bay. It's on a 14' raft.

I plan to make a flip seat bracket that uses speedrail, but still has the seat sit on a piece of wood so I'm not any higher above the cooler than now. I have all the parts, but haven't done it.


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## Robpineau

GC Guide said:


> We, at Artisan Metal Works have recently figured out a cool way to add removable decks to a frame set up like that. Let me know if you would like more info....


 
Please share... from your website it looks like you are using piano hinges to create lids for your drop bays?


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## GC Guide

Robpineau said:


> Please share... from your website it looks like you are using piano hinges to create lids for your drop bays?


 
Sorry Rob. I'm not sure what a "drop bay" is? And, just FYI, my website has not been upgraded in several years. We have been busy building custom scientific gadgets of all kinds for our U.S. government research in Grand Canyon, and river gear for Ceiba and Moenkopi to name a couple. Our equipment, procedures, and engineering have evolved greatly since the website has been updated.

Is there something wrong with piano hinges?


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## GC Guide

Rob,
You must be refering to our hatch frames, and yes we do still use piano hinge. What we use for that is .060" aluminum hinge with a 3/16" pin. The hinge pins are welded in so they don't ever fall out and the hinges are welded to the frame and hatch lid. 

Sorry for the terminology faux pas


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## Robpineau

no problem, I was looking for how you attach your decks and just thought the hatch frames were a great idea... I was assuming that you rig the hatch with a drop bag to store gear.


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## GC Guide

You are correct on the drop bag. We do not have any pics of the removable decks on our website. We just sold our first set and are waiting to hear from the purchaser on how they worked on his GC private. That feedback will give us a better idea of their usefulness and strength.


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## AZJefe

*Re: removable decks*



GC Guide said:


> We just sold our first set and are waiting to hear from the purchaser on how they worked on his GC private. That feedback will give us a better idea of their usefulness and strength.


What feedback did you get?


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## GC Guide

AZJefe said:


> What feedback did you get?


 I just sent an e-mail to ask as I had not heard from him. Thanks for reminding me, Jefe! I'll let you know what I hear.....


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## liquidchaos

Why would you want removable decks? I love my DRE diamond plate and I like thats its bomber for skidding boxes down or having a dance party!


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## Avatard

liquidchaos said:


> Why would you want removable decks? I love my DRE diamond plate and I like thats its bomber for skidding boxes down or having a dance party!


I could think of a couple reasons. Access to gear under the deck. Use of the deck as a table. Use of the deck as an immobilizing device to carry someone with a broken body part out of a canyon


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## GC Guide

I think it makes a day frame for small class 4-5 rivers usable to also do multi-day trips on bigger rivers, with baggage and what not strapped to it.... or for a pee deck.... In other words, it makes a breakdown frame more versatile!


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## GC Guide

I got an e-mail back from the customer who bought that removeable decks and break down frame. He said that all of the equipment performed well. Nothing specific about the decks, I have asked him for more specific feedback and will keep you posted!


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## kazak4x4

Do you have more detailed pics of the frame/deck?


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## Pro Leisure

TriBri1 said:


> I picked up the taller oar towers. They worked great for my last setup which had similar angles.
> 
> @KT, so far the foot bar looks great. I have not drilled the set holes yet, but think I have it measured out right.
> 
> Next up is building the side rails and drop floor.


 

Did you ever get the drop floor in? I am curious how these are rigged, do you have it secured to the floor so it does not pop out in the case of a flip?


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## TriBri1

Pro Leisure said:


> Did you ever get the drop floor in? I am curious how these are rigged, do you have it secured to the floor so it does not pop out in the case of a flip?


I've been running a drop floor for a few years now. I strap down a rocket box on each side of my legs. I suspend it using four 3' straps. I run a strap through the floor then around the rocket box width wise. I think it takes a 6'. The I run another strap from the foot bar through the handles on the rocket box then to the seat bar and loop it back. This way if you flip the front to back strap hold the floor and contents in the raft. Make sense? I don't have a photo but next time I rig, I will get one and post it.


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## ofrogg

just went from 3 bays for 4 in my 14' NRS setup. LOVE IT!

old 3 bays









new 4 bays


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## Pro Leisure

TriBri1 said:


> I've been running a drop floor for a few years now. I strap down a rocket box on each side of my legs. I suspend it using four 3' straps. I run a strap through the floor then around the rocket box width wise. I think it takes a 6'. The I run another strap from the foot bar through the handles on the rocket box then to the seat bar and loop it back. This way if you flip the front to back strap hold the floor and contents in the raft. Make sense? I don't have a photo but next time I rig, I will get one and post it.


 
Totally makes sense, love it! Thanks for the info, now its time to impliment. Great idea to stow a couple more rocket boxes (with easy access to boot). Would love to see a photo if you get the chance.


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## TriBri1

ofrogg said:


> just went from 3 bays for 4 in my 14' NRS setup. LOVE IT!


Looks great, what are your decks made out of?


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