# Greasing trailer hubs



## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

Hey folks. Yet another opportunity to add a skill to the tool box... who has greased trailer hubs? I took the dust cap off my axle and the pic below shows what my inner workings look like. Can I just attach a grease gun to the fitting? I’m having trouble finding additional info online.

Just trying to avoid being that guy on the side of the highway.


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

Upon further investigation. These seem to be ez lube hubs? Just pump in new grease to push the old grease out?


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

jberg421 said:


> Upon further investigation. These seem to be ez lube hubs? Just pump in new grease to push the old grease out?


That's exactly what you have, inspect for play, the wheel shouldln't have any side to side movement when up on the jack, then connect your grease gun to the zerk fitting and pump until the old grease comes out, and you see new grease. Personally I like Lucas red and tacky grease for wheel bearings, you can get it in the auto section at Wal Mart as well as your local auto parts store. Never had a failure since I started using that.


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

MNichols said:


> That's exactly what you have, inspect for play, the wheel shouldln't have any side to side movement when up on the jack, then connect your grease gun to the zerk fitting and pump until the old grease comes out, and you see new grease. Personally I like Lucas red and tacky grease for wheel bearings, you can get it in the auto section at Wal Mart as well as your local auto parts store. Never had a failure since I started using that.


Siiiick. Seems like the EZ hubs are far easier to service (lol imagine that). I noticed a hub that was slightly hot after last weekend so I think it’s time haha


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## craven_morhead (Feb 20, 2007)

Yeah, the EZ Lube hubs are slick. You still may want to do a full inspection/repack every couple of years.

Also, consider a waterproof lithium grease fabricated for boat trailers - it'll give you some more margin if you occasionally submerge your hubs. Bearing buddies can also help prevent hubs from sucking in river water.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

The easy lube system he has is superior to bearing buddies in every way! Bearing buddies just squirt grease at the outer bearing, whereas the easy lube system has a journal down the middle of the spindle that injects grease into the rear bearing and forces it out through the front. This effectively fills the entire hub assembly with grease and eliminates any chance of water getting in there in the first place. Agreed you should pull them apart and check every couple of years anyway, and if you're one hub did truly get hot I'd pull it apart and inspect the bearings for any sign of temperature discoloration, if so replace them. It's a cheap easy fix


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

A true ez lube axel does not have a snap ring or coil spring as shown in the first post. An ez lube has the grease zert in the axle spindle. To know for sure use a dead blow hammer to remove the silver piece.

stay safe and don’t let the wheel pass you on the highway.


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## dirtbagkayaker (Oct 29, 2008)

Bearing buddies are nice and all but ya still need to remove, clean, and repack the bearing's every so often. The tire center in my neck of the woods does it for $135 an axil. Marine grease is about $10. There are tons of youtube vids on cleaning and repacking bearing. I do mine every winter.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

You know Jake, you're right! Those are bearing buddies... Bummer


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

I'm learning a lot about trailer wheels/hubs so this is good. I've got bearing buddies. Upon removing them and the hub, I found that I fully shredded the interior bearing. So it looks like it's time to hound down the parts and replace. Probably will just fully replace the bearings, races, seals on the other wheel too. I think I was one trip away from a roadside blow up.


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

The saga continues. Sounds like Napa has the bearings I need. Looks like my outer is a 1-1/16” and my inner is a 1-3/8”. Could anyone let me know if this cup/race on the spindle is permanent or just fused on there? Haven’t seen anything like this on the inter webs but wanted to be sure before I really put my back into busting it off. Thanks


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Holy schist! No, what's left of the bearing carrier needs to come off the spindle, and you'll need to drive the races out of the hub with a drift and hammer


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

MNichols said:


> Holy schist! No, what's left of the bearing carrier needs to come off the spindle, and you'll need to drive the races out of the hub with a drift and hammer


Got it. I figured that’s what that was. Like I said the inner bearing was toast and it got worse when removing the hub. Thanks


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

This is why I recommend repacking bearings every year. Glad you found it before your flaming hub started a wildfire!!!

you may want to consider a new axle as the spindle is beat to shit and may never seal water out. 

stay safe


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## ColoradoDave (Jun 3, 2010)

dirtbagkayaker said:


> Bearing buddies are nice and all but ya still need to remove, clean, and repack the bearing's every so often. The tire center in my neck of the woods does it for $135 an axil. Marine grease is about $10. There are tons of youtube vids on cleaning and repacking bearing. I do mine every winter.


Agreed. There's nothing wrong with Bearing Buddies as long as they are kept full of grease. And a good cleaning of everything every so often to remove inevitable dirt which causes wear, albeit not catastropic melt down of components, but rather more general wear that will leak more and more grease out and need filling more often. You should know your bearings need cleaning and repacking when you see streaks of grease/dirt from the center outwards on the wheels on the inside or outside, or in the case of Mag wheels, them getting generally very dirty with harder to remove grease/dirt.

When a race is melted down like in the later post, and all the radial wear lines in the spindles are apparent, it means the bearing buddy wasn't filled with grease and the bearing went dry and spun, or it wasn't installed right and the spring failed to push the grease into the bearing. On a low use raft trailer I wouldn'tnecessarily replace the spindles. Just put in new bearings, and likely be able to reuse the bearing buddies and keep an eye on them always being filled. And find a good cleaner for the grease thrown out.

If you would have had the newer EZ hubs, they would have done the same thing with neglect. No difference whatsoever.


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

ColoradoDave said:


> Agreed. There's nothing wrong with Bearing Buddies as long as they are kept full of grease. And a good cleaning of everything every so often to remove inevitable dirt which causes wear, albeit not catastropic melt down of components, but rather more general wear that will leak more and more grease out and need filling more often. You should know your bearings need cleaning and repacking when you see streaks of grease/dirt from the center outwards on the wheels on the inside or outside, or in the case of Mag wheels, them getting generally very dirty with harder to remove grease/dirt.
> 
> When a race is melted down like in the later post, and all the radial wear lines in the spindles are apparent, it means the bearing buddy wasn't filled with grease and the bearing went dry and spun, or it wasn't installed right and the spring failed to push the grease into the bearing. On a low use raft trailer I wouldn'tnecessarily replace the spindles. Just put in new bearings, and likely be able to reuse the bearing buddies and keep an eye on them always being filled. And find a good cleaner for the grease thrown out.
> 
> If you would have had the newer EZ hubs, they would have done the same thing with neglect. No difference whatsoever.


Good looks! Appreciate the info. My first rodeo on this topic. But really not a technical task. Biggest issue was figuring out inner bearing size cuz mine got toasted and I bought the trailer off an old farmer. I guess if I ever buy a used trailer it’d be worth the 50$, 2 hrs, and a 6 pack to just immediately replace.

I’m putting the fresh ones in tomorrow and seems Like it should go smoothly.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

ColoradoDave said:


> Agreed. There's nothing wrong with Bearing Buddies as long as they are kept full of grease.


Ummm, there are a couple drawbacks to these. First and foremost, you'll never get grease to the rear bearing without blowing out the seal, and if memory serves, they want you to use "special bearing buddy seals" with the BB dust caps, not sure what makes these different than other seals, but a buddy blew out his standard seal trying to get the hub full of grease a few years back, he just changed out his spindles last year to the EZ lube style.. Was kinda a pain to get them true when welding them back on, but it was 400 bucks cheaper than a whole new axle.

I wouldn't count on them as a first line of defense, but it's not hurting having them on there, and they likely help more than hinder. Nothing, as many have said, replaces pulling the hub yearly and hand packing the bearings if you don't have an EZ lube axle, and then still every couple years depending on use, doing the same with the EZ lube.

As for the seal surface on the spindle, you could clean this up some with a scotch brite wheel in a hand grinder, polish it out some and it'll go a long way toward making the most of what you have last as long as it could.


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## dirtbagkayaker (Oct 29, 2008)

Just best to buy a new spindle at this point.


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## FatmanZ (Sep 15, 2004)

How are the spindles removed / held in place on a trailer axle like that? My trailer has spindles like that (though not as worn) and to me they seem like they are one with the axle itself and to replace one or both spindles is a matter of replacing the axle as a whole?


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

You have to cut the spindle off of the axle tube and true and weld the new one on. Isn't as bad as it seems, and given the costs these days of replacement of the entire axle, a economically viable job. Pretty much and welder that does trailers can do this for ya, or I'd you have a friend that can do it that works too.


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

MNichols said:


> You have to cut the spindle off of the axle tube and true and weld the new one on. Isn't as bad as it seems, and given the costs these days of replacement of the entire axle, a economically viable job. Pretty much and welder that does trailers can do this for ya, or I'd you have a friend that can do it that works too.


Yeah I was gonna say I don't have a welding unit. 

I did trailer the boat down to the yellowstone and pulled 75 just fine. Hubs didn't get hot so I think I'm good to go


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

MNichols said:


> I wouldn't count on them as a first line of defense, but it's not hurting having them on there, and they likely help more than hinder. Nothing, as many have said, replaces pulling the hub yearly and hand packing the bearings if you don't have an EZ lube axle, and then still every couple years depending on use, doing the same with the EZ lube.


My trailer came (used) with bearing buddies over the EZ Lube axle. The BBs had damaged the grease zerk for the EZ lube. I had to remove the BB and replace the zerk on the axle, and got new dust caps with a removable center cap to access the zerk.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

tBatt said:


> My trailer came (used) with bearing buddies over the EZ Lube axle. The BBs had damaged the grease zerk for the EZ lube. I had to remove the BB and replace the zerk on the axle, and got new dust caps with a removable center cap to access the zerk.


You know what's really funny, is I've seen this happen before! More times than I care to remember. Someone extols the virtues of bearing buddies, and someone who doesn't know what they're doing puts them on over top of an easy lube zerk lol


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## villagelightsmith (Feb 17, 2016)

'Minds me of a young couple, moving from Kansas to Oregon. Halfway between nowhere and 'nuthin, a hot bearing started a tire fire. They managed to get their vehicle disconnected from the trailer but had to watch everything they owned go up in smoke ... except their families' heirloom silver ... they didn't recognize the silver puddle on the pavement... so they ended up driving off and leaving it. Yeah, a bit of grease and a little time can save a lot of grief. Some of us, the not-so-rich, have a great percentage of our wealth tucked into our recreational (essential) gear. A hot bearing or a roadside thief can cost us a lot of living to replace it. Along with some electrical stuff and marine wiring I carry a spare bearing set in an ammo can bolted to the front of the trailer box. The only time I've needed it, I didn't have it. If you're building a trailer, EZ lube is the way to go.


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

This is why I always recommend pulling everything apart and repacking every year. If you don’t inspect all the moving parts you don’t know what is happening in there.


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## wack (Jul 7, 2015)

We were having bearing issues on the way back from the Smith this year on a buddy's trailer. He'd just paid good $$$ to get them repacked. They were barely filled with grease . I didn't have to tools on hand to replace the inner bearing or race . But I did manage to replace the outer bearing and gave them a liberal grease job in a 90* Tractor Supply parking lot on a Sunday.
I re-pack mine each year, but plan on carrying a new spare hub/bearings for any multi-day trip over 5 hrs from home....


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

tBatt said:


> My trailer came (used) with bearing buddies over the EZ Lube axle. The BBs had damaged the grease zerk for the EZ lube. I had to remove the BB and replace the zerk on the axle, and got new dust caps with a removable center cap to access the zerk.


You know what's really funny, is I've seen this happen before! More times than I care to remember. Someone extols the virtues of bearing buddies, and someone who doesn't know what they're doing puts them on over top of an easy lube zerk lol


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

villagelightsmith said:


> 'Minds me of a young couple, moving from Kansas to Oregon. Halfway between nowhere and 'nuthin, a hot bearing started a tire fire. They managed to get their vehicle disconnected from the trailer but had to watch everything they owned go up in smoke ... except their families' heirloom silver ... they didn't recognize the silver puddle on the pavement... so they ended up driving off and leaving it. Yeah, a bit of grease and a little time can save a lot of grief. Some of us, the not-so-rich, have a great percentage of our wealth tucked into our recreational (essential) gear. A hot bearing or a roadside thief can cost us a lot of living to replace it. Along with some electrical stuff and marine wiring I carry a spare bearing set in an ammo can bolted to the front of the trailer box. The only time I've needed it, I didn't have it. If you're building a trailer, EZ lube is the way to go.


I wish I could like your post 10 times over!


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## jberg421 (Jul 19, 2020)

wack said:


> We were having bearing issues on the way back from the Smith this year on a buddy's trailer. He'd just paid good $$$ to get them repacked. They were barely filled with grease . I didn't have to tools on hand to replace the inner bearing or race . But I did manage to replace the outer bearing and gave them a liberal grease job in a 90* Tractor Supply parking lot on a Sunday.
> I re-pack mine each year, but plan on carrying a new spare hub/bearings for any multi-day trip over 5 hrs from home....


That was my first thought. I've got a two week road trip coming up and planning doing lots of boating, so I'm definitely going to bring an extra set of bearings and a tube of grease. 

On another note, sketchy that your buddy's repack job was dry? Reassurance that DIYing mine was worth it.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

jberg421 said:


> That was my first thought. I've got a two week road trip coming up and planning doing lots of boating, so I'm definitely going to bring an extra set of bearings and a tube of grease.
> 
> On another note, sketchy that your buddy's repack job was dry? Reassurance that DIYing mine was worth it.


I'd recommend if you're going to bring spare bearings, that you just bring a spare hub assembly. Trying to drive out bearing races on the side of the road without the proper tools can be really problematic


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> You have to cut the spindle off of the axle tube and true and weld the new one on. Isn't as bad as it seems, and given the costs these days of replacement of the entire axle, a economically viable job. Pretty much and welder that does trailers can do this for ya, or I'd you have a friend that can do it that works too.


I have a bent axle, should I try to cut/re-weld the spindle on straighter? any tips for alignment?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

jberg421 said:


> That was my first thought. I've got a two week road trip coming up and planning doing lots of boating, so I'm definitely going to bring an extra set of bearings and a tube of grease.
> 
> On another note, sketchy that your buddy's repack job was dry? Reassurance that DIYing mine was worth it.


you can buy pre-lubed loaded hubs (with bearings/races/seals installed) from BassPro and Cabela's for common hub sizes for cheaper than the parts individually..and they come in a nice little box.



https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/ce-smith-trailer-hub-kit?rrec=true


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> I have a bent axle, should I try to cut/re-weld the spindle on straighter? any tips for alignment?


It all depends on what's bent. If it is the physical axle tube itself, take your acetylene torch and burn the spindles off the end, replace the axle tube, there are most commonly schedule 20 pieces of pipe

Ensure that your end cuts are square and you've cleaned all the detritus off of the spindle to the flange that mates with the axle. Weld it on. Reinstall the axle and measure from the center of the tip of the spindle to the coupler, the measurements should be the same on either side

If it's the spindle that's bent, simply cut the spindle off as close as you can to the weld on the axle tube, ensure that the end is square and weld a new spindle on. Very rarely does the spindle itself get bent, it's usually the axle tube


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Thank you!

I did some fabricashun this weekend; added an LED backup light and a corner marker light (since I couldn't see my own LED brake lights by day or night)









Used these little 3/4" LED bullet marker lights. Crazy impressed by how bright they are, especially at under a buck apiece. that corner marker is brighter than my brake lights, and visible in my mirrors in broad daylight.








Amazon.com: Meerkatt (Pack of 20) 3/4 Inch Mini Round Smoked Lens 5 Amber + 5 Red LED Indicator Extra Bright Light Clearance Lamp Bullet Side Marker for Trailer Truck Bus RV Boat Caravan Grommet 12V DC Waterproof : Everything Else


Amazon.com: Meerkatt (Pack of 20) 3/4 Inch Mini Round Smoked Lens 5 Amber + 5 Red LED Indicator Extra Bright Light Clearance Lamp Bullet Side Marker for Trailer Truck Bus RV Boat Caravan Grommet 12V DC Waterproof : Everything Else



www.amazon.com


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> Thank you!


You're welcome. One thing I forgot to mention, is you'll need to pick up a couple of spring perches as well. It's really hard to reuse them. They're like two bucks a piece and you just weld them onto the axle tube


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Or plas new ones out of a piece of square tube. Yeah, stupid hard to cut and grind off all that curved weld.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Well, I would purchase them simply because the hole in the top that the leaf spring bolt fits into needs to be exactly centered when it's sitting on the axle. They're not spendy. The problem with cutting them off is there's not a whole lot of metal to sacrifice, and once you get them cut off there's not a whole lot left to work with


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I think you partially misunderstood me. Absolutely wouldn't re-use them. What a gigantic pain in the butt...agree there would be very little left after torching and cleaning them up.

But I used to make my own perches out of a plasma-cut section of 2" (or 2.5" for wider springs) 1/4" wall square tubing back when I was doing the 4x4 thing. The 1/4" wall was thicker/stiffer than the ~3/16" or so stamped factory perches. We would also make them a bit longer to help control axle wrap as we had low diff gears and double transfer cases--not a ton of HP but lots of torque.

Crazy how much shear that little pin can see, especially if your ubolts loosen!

Eyeballed my axle last night; definitely some bend in there--bent up/backwards which is causing scrub on the inside of the tread. The outside surface of the tire is about 1/4" out of plane with the other tire. Must've been a curb or pothole


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> I think you partially misunderstood me. Absolutely wouldn't re-use them. What a gigantic pain in the butt...agree there would be very little left after torching and cleaning them up.
> 
> But I used to make my own perches out of a plasma-cut section of 2" (or 2.5" for wider springs) 1/4" wall square tubing back when I was doing the 4x4 thing. The 1/4" wall was thicker/stiffer than the ~3/16" or so stamped factory perches. We would also make them a bit longer to help control axle wrap as we had low diff gears and double transfer cases--not a ton of HP but lots of torque.
> 
> ...


Gotcha...


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

Replace the whole axle now or later, it’s your choice. how many hours do you want to spend to save a few dollars?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Whitewater Worthy Equip said:


> how many hours do you want to spend to save a few dollars?


I feel like you're judging my entire outlook on life! bwahahahaha


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

If anyone can make it happen, your the one. Most people do have a shop or the attention to detail I’ve seen in your work. It isn’t easy to cut and weld a new piece on and have it end up perfectly straight. Even if your prep is perfect, the heat added to the work piece through the welding process can change the alignment.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I did some more Googling since I asked MNichols yesterday...the tractor and equipment forums were a wealth of info (and some laughs!). I'm going to try to cold bend it first (chains/beam/bottle jack....did that with a bent Chevy 14 bolt (Corporate) 9.5" semi-floater back in the day) and then heat straighten if that doesn't do it. Looks like the cut/bend/weld is too risky for unanticipated warpage.

And if that doens't work a new axle shaft is $300 from eTrailer.com...but what scares me there is that I'd probably want to buy a loaded axle and add brakes. haha


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Guessing I hit a curb or pothole, no other signs of damage other than the bend. Spindle/outer tube was tweaked back/up. It was 3/16" out in 12", so at least 3/8" out across the diameter of the tire.

Pulled the hub, wiped the grease off, used the OA torch to heat the axle tube behind the backing plate. Had tried to "heat straighten" it but there wasn't quite enough shrinkage for the heat alone to pull the bend.
So I stuck an old jack tube on the spindle and put some pressure on it with a ratchet strap. Took two more applications of heat, but now the spindle is square with the trailer frame. At least I didn't overshoot it!


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

MT4Runner said:


> I did some more Googling since I asked MNichols yesterday...the tractor and equipment forums were a wealth of info (and some laughs!). I'm going to try to cold bend it first (chains/beam/bottle jack....did that with a bent Chevy 14 bolt (Corporate) 9.5" semi-floater back in the day) and then heat straighten if that doesn't do it. Looks like the cut/bend/weld is too risky for unanticipated warpage.
> 
> And if that doens't work a new axle shaft is $300 from eTrailer.com...but what scares me there is that I'd probably want to buy a loaded axle and add brakes. haha


Just turned a cracked leaf spring into springs, hubs, brakes, and a brake controller. I feel ya.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

tBatt said:


> Just turned a cracked leaf spring into springs, hubs, brakes, and a brake controller. I feel ya.


Did you buy from eTrailer, or find that stuff locally? Prodigy controller?

other boat I just bought has a MH axle/springs under it. rides like a tank with a 350# aluminum boat on it...that's my next project.

But I did get my new-to-me $225 motorboat trailer conversion to a dory trailer lights working last night; off to the County to get tags.

Tip for the day: used aluminum anti-seize on the ground wire bolt. Should keep the road salt out and ensure connectivity. Rear lamps got a lot brighter after I applied it and tightened the bolt.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> Did you buy from eTrailer, or find that stuff locally? Prodigy controller?
> 
> other boat I just bought has a MH axle/springs under it. rides like a tank with a 350# aluminum boat on it...that's my next project.
> 
> ...


I've always used dielectric grease and sealed the connection best I can. I've taken to always using heat shrink connectors, and painting the connector and bolt with liquid electric tape or something similar over the greased connector. As always, surface prep is key to longevity.

I just had a friend that ordered a bunch of stuff from ETrailer, and he's far from happy. He is outfitting a enclosed trailer for him and his boys motorcycles, ordered a bunch of stuff, most of it cheap Chinese crap, and not all that inexpensive.

I buy all my stuff, and have for years from Home page , never a problem with quality or price. I have an EIN so I created a dealer account and save a bunch off retail.

Don't know why it's showing the link as Home Page, but the name of the site is Rigid Hitch dot com.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> I've always used dielectric grease and sealed the connection best I can. I've taken to always using heat shrink connectors, and painting the connector and bolt with liquid electric tape or something similar over the greased connector. As always, surface prep is key to longevity.
> 
> I just had a friend that ordered a bunch of stuff from ETrailer, and he's far from happy. He is outfitting a enclosed trailer for him and his boys motorcycles, ordered a bunch of stuff, most of it cheap Chinese crap, and not all that inexpensive.


Liquid Electrical tape sounds like a great idea, thanks. Would also be good at the ends of the heat shrink

Yeah, last trailer ground lasted 6+ years with anti-seize. Lights only stopped working on my black flatbed when they got bashed off with a stump..so I replaced them with the oval LED's square tube corners in the pics above. New ground is 100% wired, not through the frame.
I redid the horse trailer bushings with parts from eTrailer, wasn't disappointed.



> I buy all my stuff, and have for years from Rigid Hitch.com , never a problem with quality or price. I have an EIN so I created a dealer account and save a bunch off retail.


Thanks. (I edited the linky text)


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> Thanks. (I edited the linky text)


Of course you did LOLOLOL...


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## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

MT4Runner said:


> Did you buy from eTrailer, or find that stuff locally? Prodigy controller?
> 
> other boat I just bought has a MH axle/springs under it. rides like a tank with a 350# aluminum boat on it...that's my next project.
> 
> ...


Locally. A Buzzard homie has an account with Textrail and hooked it up.

Tekonsha controller and Dexter Nev-R-Adjust brakes/hubs on an existing EZ Lube axle.


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