# Removing Summit II Valves



## ArgoCat (May 14, 2007)

So, my valves (Summit II/Tomcat Tandem) are so tight that the plastic valve wrench you are supposed to remove them with broke and it didn't budge a bit. I know there is the Halkey Roberts Valve wrench that is metal, and it seems like it will not break but with how tight the valve is, I am afraid of just shredding the plastic if I really have to "wrench" on it. So: Does anyone know any other tricks to loosen up the valve from the boot? And does anyone know for sure if the Halkey Roberts Valve Wrench fits a Sumit II Valve (Tomcat Tandem)

Thanks,


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

I would hit the interface with a light touch of lubricant and let it set for a bit...might help. If you are replacing with the same valve, and you end up destroying the outer body, it won't matter much, just be sure not to destroy the inner flange or you will get to play cut and glue with a replacement (at which point I would, personally, upgrade to a leafield).


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## Bootboy (Aug 25, 2020)

A large pair of channel lock pliers and a piece of rubber are your friends.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Bootboy said:


> A large pair of channel lock pliers and a piece of rubber are your friends.


I don't know that there's enough plastic to grab with slip joint pliers like you suggest. From the photos I saw of these, they look a LOT like Halkey Roberts valves. 

For 12 bucks I'd order a metal internal wrench that's way stronger than plastic and give that a go








Halkey-Roberts Metal Valve Wrench | NRS


This heavy-duty aluminum Halkey-Roberts Valve Wrench provides easy and reliable removal and installation of Halkey-Roberts inflatable boat valves.



www.nrs.com


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## kengore (May 29, 2008)

I was able to make a summit II valve wrench from a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit and a dremel tool.
Perhaps some careful application of a heat gun or hot water could get it unstuck.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

kengore said:


> I was able to make a summit II valve wrench from a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit and a dremel tool.
> Perhaps some careful application of a heat gun or hot water could get it unstuck.


That's very MT4runner of you 😂👍👌


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## ArgoCat (May 14, 2007)

MNichols said:


> I don't know that there's enough plastic to grab with slip joint pliers like you suggest. From the photos I saw of these, they look a LOT like Halkey Roberts valves.
> 
> For 12 bucks I'd order a metal internal wrench that's way stronger than plastic and give that a go
> 
> ...


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## ArgoCat (May 14, 2007)

Ordered the Halkey Roberts valve wrench, but will definitely soak with hot water first. Just don't like the idea of lubricants on the rubber if I can avoid it. Thank you all for the suggestions.


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Soap makes a good lubricant.......especially in hot water.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

So, it's been 5 days since the last post. Did you get your valve out? Inquiring minds and all that nonsense


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## ArgoCat (May 14, 2007)

MNichols said:


> So, it's been 5 days since the last post. Did you get your valve out? Inquiring minds and all that nonsense


It is a slow leak at the tube tip that has not taken kindly to patching, so I think I am going to limp through the next few trips and then do a full replacement with a C-7 valve and urethane tube from an Outfitter II. Measurements seem to be close enough on the two boats, but I do not want to destroy the old valve and be forced into a major repair during the season. I Will let everyone know if the swap works as I wanted to upgrade to urethane over the vinyl tubes that just seem to get pinhole leaks all too often on western rivers.


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