# raft frame



## VACO (May 16, 2008)

Considering making my own frame. There are brackets on ebay I saw.
TEE 1-1/4" #7 Speed Handrail Rail Raft Frame Fittings - eBay (item 280225720929 end time Sep-06-08 15:21:45 PDT)

Any comments on the quailty/durability of these, compared to say DRE/NRS parts. Pros/cons. Bad idea to purcahse or not? Thanks for any info.


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## Jon-O (Sep 17, 2004)

Just remember that NRS and DRE use different pipe diameters. Make sure you have the right sized tee to accommodate the rest of your frame.


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## lmaciag (Oct 10, 2003)

Found this when I was researching which frame to buy. You might find it useful in your project.

How to build a river raft frame

Laurie


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## Ponderosa (Jan 25, 2008)

lmaciag said:


> Found this when I was researching which frame to buy. You might find it useful in your project.
> 
> How to build a river raft frame
> 
> Laurie


I built one of these frames this spring following the instructions and purchasing the tee connections from frontier play. Took it on Cat at 28,000 and many other rivers. Works great. Definitely get the thicker gauge tube if you go this route, it is way worth the extra couple $. Also, I used a slow setting epoxy glue to lock everything in place (though that was probably overkill). Have fun.


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Games with Frames revisited. . .*

There was a thread on this sort of frame that I posted last year— search Games with Frames. There are several photos of frames built with SpeedRail joints and with Cambridge Welding steel joints via Sid's Sports in SLC. Material specs and detail photos are there, if you read the whole thread. 

Here's a shot of a frame for a small cat built this way. 









For SpeedRail joints, go to <www.hollaender.com>. You can download a catalog and a pricelist. Minimum order $100. They use IPS (Iron Pipe Size) measurements that are confusing. The 1" IPS fittings are actually 1.315" OD and fit the smaller size chainlink toprail tubing (galvanized steel) that I use, mostly (shown in the pics). The 1-1/4 IPS SpeedRail fittings are 1.66" OD and fit the larger size chainlink toprail and the schedule 40 (refers to wall thickness) aluminum tube that NRS uses for their frames. I've built custom add-ons for NRS frames using SpeedRail joints. I think the 1-1/2" IPS size fits the schedule 40 aluminum tube used by DRE, but I haven't worked with it. 

There are tricks involved, the most important of which is to place dowels (I use wood) in the tubes where the fittings clamp down. Otherwise the tubing squashes and the fittings will work loose. 

Anyhow, it works, and it's fun to build your own frame. You can also change it around as needed. 

Chip


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

You can also get smaller quantities of speed rail fittings from Down River Equipment. Clavey sells them also.


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## goldcamp (Aug 9, 2006)

How much did it cost you build your own frame vs what it would cost to buy one?


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## Ponderosa (Jan 25, 2008)

goldcamp said:


> How much did it cost you build your own frame vs what it would cost to buy one?


 
Built my frame for about $200. Similar frame from NRS $500+.


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## WestSlopeWW (Jun 26, 2008)

Ponderosa said:


> I built one of these frames this spring following the instructions and purchasing the tee connections from frontier play. Took it on Cat at 28,000 and many other rivers. Works great. Definitely get the thicker gauge tube if you go this route, it is way worth the extra couple $. Also, I used a slow setting epoxy glue to lock everything in place (though that was probably overkill). Have fun.


If you build one with the tee connectors mentioned above, make sure you crank the shit out of the set screws, and also carry the correct allen wrench with you on the river. They seem to work themselves loose, which is why the epoxy is a good idea. We had our frame come apart in the middle of a rapid before we learned our lesson.


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Stuff Costs. . .*

Even self-built, a frame ready-to-row (with oartowers, oarlocks, seat, floor, etc. will be closer to $400-500. The problem is that you have to buy your materials at retail prices. The big outfits get the same stuff at 50-60%. So, alas!, it's not all that much cheaper to build your own frame than it is to buy a welded steel one (e.g. from Cascade Outfitters). 

One observation: for small rafts and cats, the modular frames from NRS and DRE are way overbuilt, with the same tubing and joints as they use for big boats. Here's a self-built frame for 13.5-ft. Jack's Cutthroat tubes, using 1-inch IPS fittings and galvanized chainlink toprail. 









I've had one incident with a frame coming apart, and that was my fault— the front end was held together with only a single crossmember (the footbar). The frame in the photo is the corrected version: boxed (i.e with four tubes) in every dimension. It's been through big water without any problems— no loose setscrews at the end of a run. Search the Games with Frames thread for details. 

Chip


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## middletoe (Oct 5, 2007)

Chip, how did you secure the Polymax floor to the frame?


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## colorado_steve (May 1, 2011)

middletoe said:


> Chip, how did you secure the Polymax floor to the frame?


one idea would be heavy duty zip ties. fairly cheap. easy to replace on the river. use a bunch and i think it would be pretty strong too. just throwing an idea out there..


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## TriBri1 (Nov 15, 2011)

middletoe said:


> Chip, how did you secure the Polymax floor to the frame?


Cutting slots for straps works too. 1ft straps works fine, you can also thread longer straps in and out of the polymax.


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