# Solo Dory



## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

More photos.


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## Big Splash (Sep 13, 2021)

AWESOME work. What are the hatch water drains from? 
How do the covers attach and latch?


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Hi Big Splash. I custom made 2 molds for the gutters to fit the boat. The bow and stern hatches are the same and the side hatches are the same size. Fairly simple process to make molds. Trimming the fiberglass hatch is a bit messy but just takes patience and time. The hinges will be gemlux friction hinges and the hatch fasteners will be old school window latches in stainless steel. The deck and hatches will also be covered in SeaDek.


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## Big Splash (Sep 13, 2021)

Super professional! Way better than any DIY I could ever do.


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## gbheron (May 2, 2021)

Wow! Nice work!


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## westwatercuban (May 19, 2021)

Those hatches are gorgeous! 😍🤤


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Wow what amazing craftsmanship! I have to ask, are you building these and others as your job? So clean and beautiful! We’ll done!


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## LLubchenco (Nov 23, 2016)

What do you figure the cost for the project worked out to? You mention wanting to kill your budget. Wondering if it wouldn't kill mine either haha
Great work, very inspiring!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

That is a very common question about the cost to put a boat together. Shawn wrote about this extensively on the forum. I can make an attempt at an answer considering additional variables. It all depends! In my experience, a good percentage of boats that get started are never completed for a variety of reasons. It is human nature to think a job will take a short amount of time. The original estimate typically needs to be doubled or tripled. Remember that bathroom you started to remodel 2 years ago. A fun boat project soon turns into a marathon that takes up valuable space in your garage and may upset your significant other. My point here, your time is valuable. It is often cheaper and less frustrating to purchase a boat from an established builder like Brad or Andy. You may also need to purchase tools and these can add up rapidly. A quality vacuum is essential. Another variable is a collection of boat building materials. For a dory of this size, the materials are not that expensive. I used four sheets of meranti marine 1/4 inch ply, and four sheets of 3/8 inch ply, 5 gallons of epoxy, fiberglass tape and cloth, sandpaper, rollers, mixing cups, chip brushes, paint, hinges, latches, oarlocks, etc. This is by no means an extensive supply list but you get the point. These items can be priced out in your local area for a decently close estimate. You need to go into the process aware of the “other” costs of boatbuilding. However, rowing a boat that you built is very rewarding and a lovely way to spend your time. One boat frequently turns into 3 more after you get the boat building virus. Good luck! I can suggest a few good books if you are interested.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Just out of curiosity, what would a turn key dory from the reputable builders cost? It isn’t as if guys don’t buy other expensive things lol! In fact I’d be willing to buy your little dory ! Lol! On second thought maybe a wooden boats not good for a guy who hits lots of stuff lol


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## Wallrat (Jan 19, 2021)

Pinchecharlie said:


> Just out of curiosity, what would a turn key dory from the reputable builders cost? It isn’t as if guys don’t buy other expensive things lol! In fact I’d be willing to buy your little dory ! Lol! On second thought maybe a wooden boats not good for a guy who hits lots of stuff lol


Charlie has been banned from buying any more boats until he proves that he can run one without destroying it…and himself.


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## captbarryw (Mar 9, 2021)

Very impressive. Like the deep footwell also. Love my boat, but if I could change one thing it would be a deeper footwell


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

Beautiful work! How are your fiberglass gutters supported under the decks to bear the load of someone standing on a hatch lid?


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## captbarryw (Mar 9, 2021)

looks like there is a hole in the stern with a pvc pipe or something in it. Whats this for?


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## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

Water and Wood said:


> Remember that bathroom you started to remodel 2 years ago.


I feel personally attacked. @Electric-Mayhem


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

This group has a nice sense of humor.

The hatch drains have a 1.5 inch bonding area all around the gutter to attach under the deck with epoxy and 406 filler. I have yet to have one delaminate ( I like the nice work you do on your boats Duct Tape).
The PVC pipe holes at the bow and stern are for ropes to go through and create a loop in place of a steel bow eye. I saw this design from an Alaskan builder (Renn Tolman) that put together commercial boats and found that over time, the steel bow eyes would bend and leak with heavy use. I adopted the strategy from him. Essentially a PVC horseshoe that is bonded into the bow and covered with thickened epoxy and glass. The PVC acts as a permanent mold until everything cures and then you snake the rope through the tube and tie it off. Cheap, strong, and simple.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

iam sure it’s obvious to everyone (but me) but this style has no bow post and no frames at all. So the zip ties and pvc pipe just hold it where you want it and the filletts and glass are enough to keep her together?! Is it somewhat flexible or after all the compartment menus and decking is on it stiffens right up? Sorry iam not much of a wood worker!!


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

Water and Wood said:


> This group has a nice sense of humor.
> 
> The hatch drains have a 1.5 inch bonding area all around the gutter to attach under the deck with epoxy and 406 filler. I have yet to have one delaminate ( I like the nice work you do on your boats Duct Tape).
> The PVC pipe holes at the bow and stern are for ropes to go through and create a loop in place of a steel bow eye. I saw this design from an Alaskan builder (Renn Tolman) that put together commercial boats and found that over time, the steel bow eyes would bend and leak with heavy use. I adopted the strategy from him. Essentially a PVC horseshoe that is bonded into the bow and covered with thickened epoxy and glass. The PVC acts as a permanent mold until everything cures and then you snake the rope through the tube and tie it off. Cheap, strong, and simple.
> ...


Really like your innovation and ingenuity. I love to see and learn new things here and on the Dory FB page. The level of talent is humbling.
jon


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## kengore (May 29, 2008)

I love the lines on that little dory. Bet it floats and bobs like a cork with all that rocker. Will you be adding more to the gunnel? I find the '2 strips with spacers' style gunnel on my boat useful for lash points. A place to store a rod might be useful, is that on the menu? I would love to see it on the water, please send pics.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

The gunwales are laminated from 1/4 inch plywood strips 1.5 inches tall inner and 2 inches outer. The outer and inner gunwales each have three layers of plywood and the hull for a total thickness of 1.75 inches. The seams are off-set at each lamination by at least 12 inches and butt-jointed. The assembly is first wet out with straight epoxy and then laminated with epoxy and 406 thickener. I typically wait two days to pull off the clamps and do the other side. Next step is to sand, round over the edges, and apply 6oz cloth over the lamination. For attachment points, I oversize drill through the gunwale, fill with thick epoxy and re-drill the hole for 1/4 inch rope tie downs.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

good to see you over here. WBP is good peeps but quieter

I agree on the rocker. Mine has about 6.5 inches bow and stern, and with the short waterline I don’t wish I had more. That 10’ Lil Bastard decked Grand Banks style dory I had for awhile had about 2 inches rocker and was still plenty maneuverable.

your craftsmanship is gorgeous.


kengore said:


> I find the '2 strips with spacers' style gunnel on my boat useful for lash points.


I’m a sucker for that style of scuppered gunnels but for me it’s as much about aesthetics anything. They are useful for lash points as well. Laminated are stronger than solid steam bent wood.

It’s my understanding the style started with cedar canvas canoes and there was a gap left at the top where the ribs terminated at the gunnels. When people started building cedar strip canoes, they kept the aesthetic but also for lashpoints or for water to drain out when the boat was inverted for storage boat…or similar when ribbed dories were translated to S&G

I understand that these sell for $6k-9k


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## Contor (Sep 10, 2018)

Water and Wood said:


> The gunwales are laminated from 1/4 inch plywood strips 1.5 inches tall inner and 2 inches outer. The outer and inner gunwales each have three layers of plywood and the hull for a total thickness of 1.75 inches. The seams are off-set at each lamination by at least 12 inches and butt-jointed. The assembly is first wet out with straight epoxy and then laminated with epoxy and 406 thickener. I typically wait two days to pull off the clamps and do the other side. Next step is to sand, round over the edges, and apply 6oz cloth over the lamination. For attachment points, I oversize drill through the gunwale, fill with thick epoxy and re-drill the hole for 1/4 inch rope tie downs.
> 
> View attachment 81079
> View attachment 81080


Hmmmm… Clamp envy


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Hi Shawn,
I also prefer the look of the traditional openings at the gunwale but I sure hate to sand and varnish those areas over the years. It does provide great grab handles and attachment points though. Certainly a lot of trade-offs with the two design strategies. How has the bottom of your small dory been holding up with the 1/4 inch plywood and the cedar bulkheads?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I think gunnel slots as grab handles are dangerous (finger entrapment possibility unless you go LARGE) and will consider narrower slots next time!

The Black Eagle is so lightweight, I’ve taken bumps with it that only scratched and would have gouged the big boat.

will do cedar bulkheads again, no question


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Both gunwales have been laminated and all edges rounded over. Next big process is to fair the deck fiberglass and prep for paint. I also have to order hatch hardware, finish oar lock holders, and build the foot brace. I have not decided on a floor drain or side drain system yet in the foot well. Has anyone experimented with bottom drains recently? Structurally, she is all done!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

She'll draw ~4" empty and 6" with a good overnight load. IMHO floor drains won't work all that great without a raised floor.

I'm half tempted to put a raised floor in mine that is high enough to hold a beer can standing up. I'm 6'-5" and have proportionally long legs and my footwell is almost too deep. (I think I'm right around 18" from floor to deck).

I'd go for side drains...slope to the outside...say 7" at the footwell and 5" up from the chine? You'll be left with 6-7 gal of water to bail.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Still working on detail prep for paint and all the other items to finish up. Certainly a fun build.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Decks are faired and epoxy coated. They are ready for paint following a quick wet sand with 220grit. Made up my oarlock holders and cut the rail to fit. Still have a few under deck fillets to apply and then the Kirby paint gets rolled on. It will be nice to see a little color on her.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I'm digging your scuppers--would almost serve as a lash point if you ever wanted to strap anything down to the deck.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Nice idea for lash points at the scuppers. I am still pondering hatch latches. Southco, traditional window latches, or nylon straps? I like the old school window latches but they do stand proud of the decks.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I like the standard Southcos C5’s but they stick up when unlatched (painful to jam one between your toes) and can get jammed from stuff shifting inside

I think it would be worth considering the rotary draw Southcos


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

I like the look of the Perko latches. $32 each but I think they will work well with my gutters. Always hate to drill holes in a perfectly good boat but today was step one of the drain tube install. I started by wrapping a 2.5 inch PVC pipe with 4 layers of 12 oz biax and wrapped that with peel ply. Sanded the PVC with 40 grit first. The pipe acts as a permanent mold for this job. Then I drilled holes and centered the pipe in the cutout with plastic spacers and tacked it in. Next step is to fill in the remaining gaps with 406 thickener and lay up glass on the inside around the pipe. The outside gets a heavy bead of thickened epoxy and then sanded smooth with the hull once all is cured.


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

W&W, I’m confused why you need to wrap anything around the PVC if you leave it in place. Strength?


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

Looked at the Perko web site. Not many details there. Does the cam arm on the back rotate with the outside ring? If so I’d be concerned it will get blocked (even more so than Southco’s) by stuff shifting inside. To build a piece inside, as some of have done with Southco’s, to prevent this would mean something at least a little larger than the diameter of the cam arm arc.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

I used to glue pvc directly to the hull but had a small leak develop on a powerboat around the joint. The fiberglass bond to the hull is better than the pvc bond so I wrap the pipe first. The final assembly will not allow water intrusion even if the pvc bond fails. One disadvantage is that the pipe is heavy but it can take a beating.

The cam arm does rotate with the ring. The corners of my hatch gutters have the most glass so that is were the latch cams will be placed. I plan to build fiberglass covers to prevent any snags from the interior.

How is your boat coming along? I have not seen any recent posts on your site.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Your side hatches aren't huge. I'd highly recommend a single center latch.

My big boat (32" wide side hatches) have two latches and opening two and closing two each time I grab my camera or a beer is annoying.
I vastly prefer the little boat with a single latch on each side hatch (24" long for reference)


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Water and Wood said:


> I used to glue pvc directly to the hull but had a small leak develop on a powerboat around the joint. The fiberglass bond to the hull is better than the pvc bond so I wrap the pipe first. The final assembly will not allow water intrusion even if the pvc bond fails. One disadvantage is that the pipe is heavy but it can take a beating.
> 
> The cam arm does rotate with the ring. The corners of my hatch gutters have the most glass so that is were the latch cams will be placed. I plan to build fiberglass covers to prevent any snags from the interior.
> 
> How is your boat coming along? I have not seen any recent posts on your site.


I'd tend to agree. Epoxy to PVC is good but not completely bombproof. I epoxy my umbrella tubes to the hull, but they're not keeping out water.

I did straight epoxy/glass for my drainage slots. They work great. Wish they were larger volume on my big boat; when I rebuild it, will go more ~1.5" x 3" but will use the same technique.
I used the hockey stick as a form, but didn't leave it in the boat.








I REALLY like it narrow and slammed up against the bulkhead.


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## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

MT4Runner said:


> Your side hatches aren't huge. I'd highly recommend a single center latch.
> 
> My big boat (32" wide side hatches) have two latches and opening two and closing two each time I grab my camera or a beer is annoying.
> I vastly prefer the little boat with a single latch on each side hatch (24" long for reference)


100%


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

Water and Wood said:


> How is your boat coming along? I have not seen any recent posts on your site.


On a boat building (and rowing) hiatus while body recovers from various insults. Meanwhile working on some new guitar and mandolin forms and bending patterns. Love your creativity!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Didn't realize you are a musician JS. I am dabbling on the ukulele, but a mandolin is probably in my future...it's one of my favorite sounds in a bluegrass band and would also be a great boat instrument.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Hope you feel better soon and get back on the boat. Please share your guitar and mandolin work when you get a chance. We have recently been experimenting with solid body electric guitars from walnut and poured pigmented epoxy. Musical instruments are very rewarding to put together. My musical talent is limited but I enjoy playing what I can.

You guys are right on about the pain of opening hatches for small personal items. I am installing a hatch in the hatch on this one as an experiment. It will be a shallow box around 3 inches deep under a Beckson hatch(11.5x8). Easy access and easier to open.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

That's a GREAT idea! Make sure it tilts back enough (or have a hold-open) when the big one is open so the weight of the inner box doesn't slam the main lid on your arm or head!
Kelly Neu had a small side captain's hatch next to her seat similar to that.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Thought you guys would enjoy this guitar project. Live edge walnut blended with blue pigmented epoxy. The blank is 2.5 inches thick and will be cut on a cnc once it is popped out of the mold. The prototype was done in medium density fiberboard.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Welded up oar lock holders and over-drilled and filled for bolts.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I did epoxy, then paint and primer on my steel oarlock stanchions. It has held up way better than paint and primer alone.

And unlike powder coating, I can touch it up myself.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

I am going to take your experience and epoxy mine too. Nice way to prevent a rust streak down the hull. The little things are getting done but slowly. Hinges, hatch locks, drain pipe, and the 100 other things to complete the build. The friction hinges are nice and I am happy with the Perco latches. Paint fumes may be near.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

Awesome build! What do the inside of your hatch lids look like? I presume they have a ridge to match the channels in the rims?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I think you'll enjoy those hinges and latches.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Looks like a ton of space for storage! Easy do a week you think?


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

The hatch undersides have a doubler that extends out to the edge of the gutter lip and the lip receives a snap on gasket to keep out water. Pretty standard design. I may put a 1/16 inch gasket at the hatch gutter landing if water gets in.
The storage volume is quite large in this little boat with the 48 inch bottom. I think a week on the water is doable.
Just finished drilling and filling hardware holes.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Got the hatch box made up and glued on today. All of the hatches need a final coat of epoxy and then prep for paint. I have been putting off my final under deck fillets that need to be done soon. A bit of stretching is required to limber up for that contortion madness. Getting in is easy. Out is entirely different.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Finished the hatch in a hatch box and moving on to the next item on the list. Also got two guitar bodies cut out from walnut and tinted epoxy blanks. They need a little bit of detail work and off to the finishing room.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Pretty dang cool! Wish I had a little damn talent lol!!


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## BenSlaughter (Jun 16, 2017)

Quit sellin yourself short, Charlie!


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

The sealing system makes more sense now thinking of a gasket on the gutter lip. Is the gasket something like this? Beautiful build!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Yes, that is the snap on gasket. I have the one with the 3/8 inch diameter rubber seal that snaps onto a 1/8 inch thick lip. Finally rolled on the first exterior coat of red. A few more coats and some stripes are coming soon. It is always fun to splash on a little color and see everything coming together.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

What are you going to do with that weird little boat lol?


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Probably hit a lot of rocks with her Pinchecharlie. Are you planning on starting a build soon?


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

No I want that one lol! I have just enough talent and skill to get started but iam afraid not enough to finish! I have seen them in action and man they are fun. Iam kindov a private person and I must say you can’t row a boat like this and not get a lot of attention lol! Mt4runner and I where talking and we both think one stretched to 12-13 feet would be good for my family as we fish a lot and camp with the kid. Never enough boats lol. I’ve watched so many threads and videos I feel like I could do it ! Your boats a gem!!!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

There is nothing too difficult about building a dory that you can not handle. If you can sand epoxy and wood you are ready to go. The hardest thing is to keep the build momentum going by doing a little bit of work each week. Eventually a boat appears.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Painting has been the trend recently. Two coats of exterior red followed by taping and the first coat of Tally Ho white accent from Kirby Paint. The paint design is certainly not traditional on this little dory. The shape reminds me of an old top water plug so that is what I did. White head, red body, and yellow eyes to follow. She will be named Bonytail after the endangered fish In the Colorado. The interior is getting a custom Kirby mix called Jungle Gray that George mixed up for me from a sample I sent in. It is a greenish gray that changes with the light. More painting ahead!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Rolled on another coat of white and pulled off the green tape. Still need two eyes, black detail stripes, and the name applied. Will start the interior paint next. It is always exciting to pull off the tape and reveal the colors.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Brad and Cricket are on the East coast teaching a class and were able to take the time and present a lecture to my students this evening. What a treat! Two lovely people with a passion for boats. The topic was 100 Years of Whitewater Boat Design.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Wow your famous!!


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## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

Water and Wood said:


> Brad and Cricket are on the East coast teaching a class and were able to take the time and present a lecture to my students this evening. What a treat! Two lovely people with a passion for boats. The topic was 100 Years of Whitewater Boat Design.


Did you fangirl? I would have.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

BGillespie - fangirl? I have no idea what this means. Sounds like something done on a hot summer day.
We recorded the lecture and I will post it after a little editing.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

So are your students part of a school? Like college or trade school? Or is it a school for hire like what brad does? It’s great your teaching them about these boats (maybe you could just be poaching the space?) I dunno buddy iam mosey and wanna no the skinny!?


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Pinchecharlie - I teach applied design at a University. I mainly focus on topics in computer aided design, cnc machining, composites, and safety. The process of building boats is a great way to cover these areas and keep my students motivated. We typically put together a few boats a year and present them at wooden boat shows. Motivation is key, so I also allow students to select projects that are of interest to them (musical instruments, paddleboards, canoes, skis, furniture, drift trikes, etcetera). The project variety keeps It interesting for all of us.
This particular solo dory was developed to try out a modified design and document the process for a textbook I am writing on composite boat construction. The book will be done next Fall and include the plan set and a step by step photo documented build process. Thanks for the interest.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

WOW! Your awesome! Sweet we can buy your book!


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## westwatercuban (May 19, 2021)

Water and Wood said:


> Pinchecharlie - I teach applied design at a University. I mainly focus on topics in computer aided design, cnc machining, composites, and safety. The process of building boats is a great way to cover these areas and keep my students motivated. We typically put together a few boats a year and present them at wooden boat shows. Motivation is key, so I also allow students to select projects that are of interest to them (musical instruments, paddleboards, canoes, skis, furniture, drift trikes, etcetera). The project variety keeps It interesting for all of us.
> This particular solo dory was developed to try out a modified design and document the process for a textbook I am writing on composite boat construction. The book will be done next Fall and include the plan set and a step by step photo documented build process. Thanks for the interest.


Will you please let us know when the textbook is finished?? I’m sure other educators and the general public would be very interested.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

I will post the book information after it is done for sure. It will most likely be through ebooks initially due to the page count and volume of photos.
The boat is moving along with interior paint, black stripes and eyes design. Tested out the snap on hatch seals and they fit well. Brushed on a little black detail stripe today and finished the eyes. The eye templates can be pulled off in a few days after the paint cures. Never made eyes before, so I hope it works out.


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## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Do you guys raffle them off to me at the end of the semester?
I allways thought a river dory would look good with gold leaf ?


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

I do love Gold leaf Pinchecharlie. The stripes and eyes were unmasked today and the outside only needs the name painted on the rear. The interior paint and hardware is next and then I need to make a few sets of oars.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Started to mount hatch lids with friction hinges. Installed them with 8-32 stainless with locking nuts. They stay up well but do put a fair amount of pressure on the decks when opening and closing.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Water and Wood said:


> They stay up well but do put a fair amount of pressure on the decks when opening and closing.


I would not have guessed that. That's really good to know!!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

All the hatches are on and adjusting the latches. So far everything is fitting as planned.


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## DoStep (Jun 26, 2012)

That is a sweet boat!

What happened to the sea kayak? Ouch?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

DoStep said:


> That is a sweet boat!
> 
> What happened to the sea kayak? Ouch?


Looks like loose glass overhanging the cockpit opening that has not yet been trimmed.

Chesapeake 17? That's the boat that got me into boatbuilding...25 years ago. I think I can find the archived geocities page


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

MT4Runner,
You have a good eye. It is indeed a Chesapeake 17 under construction by a first time builder. He is already talking about the second boat to build. This is an addictive hobby to start.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Good first boat. They're really long and really wide and really deep. Huge volume.









I would HIGHLY recommend recessing the cockpit/coaming. The deck as designed is up to the bottom of my ribcage...and I'm 6'-5"


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Thank you for the image and suggestion MT4Runner. I will let him know. Doing a lot of detail items on the dory and getting close to the end. Not in a big rush with the snow coming soon. Attached my first section of weather stripping on a side hatch and it fit really well. I am building a 23 feet Panga right now for my winter project. Stay warm everyone!


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Family gathering. The Mini and Grande have very similar lines even though they range in length from 11.5 feet to 18 feet.


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## lbdavis (Apr 11, 2017)

Water and Wood - I would be interested to know about your Panga build. Have been gathering material to do the same this winter.


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## Water and Wood (5 mo ago)

Hello Ibdavis,
I linked the study plans below for the Panga design I am building. It is a solid and relatively easy boat to build. Certainly a 1-2 year build on your own. Let me know what other details you would like.











https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/StudyPlans/PG22_STUDY.pdf


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