# Newbie Motor Bailer



## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

Figured I’d share my setup I’ve been working on this past rainy season. This is my first official “raft”. 

I got a smoking deal on this Otter a while back. It had a couple short Kern trips from a guy who didn’t know what he was getting into and then it sat from what I was told and by the looks it appeared so... 

I built it kinda with the mindset that it may not do anything great, but hopefully it will do multiple things decent. We just bought a home on lower American and since I spend a lot of time ik’ing the local rivers and creeks and hanging out on the lower AR banks, it would be fun to be able to motor around and also take it on the whitewater as a paddle raft. The rear end is removeable so eventually I’ll add some oar towers when I want to utilize the frame without the motor transom. 

I also built up the trailer from an atv trailler I scored and have done a bunch of mods to. All in all I’m in it fairly cheap. 

After the maiden voyage I found some big flaws and made some changes quick. I had read on this forum to not do the std -15 deg transom angle. So I did a pretty straight NRS looking transom. Performed terribly. Came home and hacked the transom and brought motor up/in and gave it the negative angle....much better on this stiff frame. Also temp plugged the bailing holes for motor use. Now I’m out there having some fun!


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

Nice Work! Congrats on your new rig.


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## yardsells (Jul 14, 2014)

Welcome to the dark side. Embrace the powah!


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## mikepart (Jul 7, 2009)

looks nice, but why did you want your motor mounted so far back off of the tube with no adjustable bracket? I would move the mounting plate as close to the tubes as you can and add an adjustable outboard mount.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

Very nice work. The true test is, can you tilt the motor shaft up, about 20° and throw a 20 foot rooster tail of water in the air and completely soak the boat and passangers behind you. Yes, welcome to the dark side.


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## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

Thanks y’all. It’s getting there.
Mikepart, you’re absolutely right about needing to get close to the tubes. My first attempt I had read how the NRS curved mount was better than their old style so I tried to do something similar. It was way too far back. I hacked it up and brought things closer and it’s working much better. In order to tilt the motor completely up it’s about as close to the tubes as I can get it. I’m probably going to do a different transom plate here soon. My first attempt allowed for more adjustment, only in the wrong direction. It’s pretty tough to find info online in this subject so I’m just going by trial and error. I’m a newbie to the raft and motoring the river. Learning though. Actually took it out today with one more guy and it rides completely different and has me second guessing my transom ideas.


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## beware209 (May 15, 2010)

*I love it!*

Nicely done. *Pro tip* You can cut off an old Carlisle oar and use the handle as a tiller extension.


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi,

beware is right, and I have done exactly that, to good effect.

But it won't save your back when you have to lean back all that distance to pull the motor repeatedly.

Use the extension for comfort and convenience, but get the transom as close to the tubes as your other functional requirements will allow.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips


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## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

Awesome! Thank you both for the tip. I had been thinking about making a tiller extension out of pvc or something cheap. The oar tube is a great idea. As fas as pulling the motor I actually already came up with a strap I bolted on either side of the motor, which has really helped out. I appreciate all advice and/or criticism. It’s definitely not the perfect setup, but each trip is a learning experience.


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

Looks like your strap will work just fine but a setup like this is another option. 
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Adjustable-Outboard-Motor-Tilter/737415.uts?slotId=3

You should also consider disabling the transom lock so that the motor is unlocked in forward and neutral so if you hit something it can kick up. 

A Prop guard is also a valuable tool that can save you LOTS of money. 

https://i2.wp.com/www.whitewaterworthy.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Prop-Gaurd.jpg?ssl=1


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi,

The strap idea looks clever. But my motors latched in the up position after lifting them. Before I disabled the feature, I had to reach down to a latch under the power head to allow the motor to drop into the water again. 

If your motor has a similar feature, doing that is something you may want to consider, in order to avoid thay long reach.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips


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## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

If you decide on a adjustable motor mount my experience is do not use the single rail type for a four stroke motor. Buy a good multi bar model like the Garelick 7190 series with the amount of drop you will need. I find the lighter weight brackets made for two stroke motors won't take the torque loading and weight of a 4 stroke and operate properly.
If you are running a short shaft motor get the longest drop available.


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## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

dsrtrat said:


> If you decide on a adjustable motor mount my experience is do not use the single rail type for a four stroke motor. Buy a good multi bar model like the Garelick 7190 series with the amount of drop you will need. I find the lighter weight brackets made for two stroke motors won't take the torque loading and weight of a 4 stroke and operate properly
> 
> Correction should have read, Garelick 71090 4-Stroke Motor Bracket


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## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

I’m definitely planning to do some kind of prop guard. Kinda hate to drill into the cavitation plate and/or skeg, but seems like people do it often. I may try to fab up my own set up. We’ll see what I can come up with. 

I also like the idea of those Garelick Brackets. I’ve thought about that as well, but was worried it would put my motor even farther out? Do they allow for trim as well as lift and is the lift pretty vertical or does it lever outward? 

As far as my motor goes it’s a long-shaft, which I had read to definitely go with on a raft...But I question whether that was the correct move. In any case, this particular motor only allows to lift up only in forward. Would be nice if I could also lift in nuetral...And yes I have to pull the lever/lock to tilt back down. How do I go about disabling this feature while still allowing to lock in tilt position?

Thanks!


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## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

After reading the instruction pdf on that Garelick Mount I’m wondering if you would use this in lieu of tilting the motor altogether? Would I want to use this to lift and have the motor lock disabled so that it can “free tilt” if I hit something? Right now I’m using the full tilt position while beaching and just floating past obstacles. The lift states not to lift while motor is running, which I think would be pretty difficult. I have to be quick and lift it and kill the motor routinely as is. 

Another issue I’m having a tough time pinpointing is that I notice that the boat soeeds up to about 1/4 throttle. After that giving it more gas doesn’t seem to help at all. Water seems to cavitate and bog the motor down and pulls deeper. I’m not sure if this is a trim issue, prop pitch, or just the mature of a motor on a raft? I went out yesterday with my wife and a buddy. She sat middle and friend up front. Weight distribution seemed about the best I’ve had it and river flows were about 1000cfs higher than last week and pretty optimal. When just trolling the cavitation plate is just underwater and seemst where it should be. The more throttle the deeper it pulls. If I were to purchase the Garelick lifter I would think I would almost have to lift as I throttle up at least with all other variables constant? I know this will never be a doeed boat, but it would be nice to use a little more motor and keep the prop up enough to get up the rapids easier. Again I appreciate the input. I know I have a lot of questions.


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

msmith81 said:


> Another issue I’m having a tough time pinpointing is that I notice that the boat speeds up to about 1/4 throttle. After that giving it more gas doesn’t seem to help at all.


 That is called hull speed. No mater how much throttle you give it......you'll never get it up on plane. You'll save on gas if you don't try and exceed it. ;-) Rafts only go so fast on the water.


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## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

em


msmith81 said:


> After reading the instruction pdf on that Garelick Mount I’m wondering if you would use this in lieu of tilting the motor altogether? Would I want to use this to lift and have the motor lock disabled so that it can “free tilt” if I hit something? Right now I’m using the full tilt position while beaching and just floating past obstacles. The lift states not to lift while motor is running, which I think would be pretty difficult. I have to be quick and lift it and kill the motor routinely as is. )
> 
> I just use the adjustable mount to set the depth and also have a 20" long shaft motor. The motor does move away from the boat when it is moved down but then moves closer as it is reaches the down position. I use a tiller extension made as suggested from an old oar shaft and run a prop guard. The one I use mounts using two 1/4 inch holes in the skeg hardly noticeable. I usually don't bother tilting as it is easier just to pull the motor up but not while it's running. You can also just disable the tilt lock as suggested if you think you will hit a lot of shallow water.


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## KingElbear (Feb 28, 2013)

I have been running a 4hp motor on a 16ft raft for years, and understand your issues. I also run a jack ass motor mount (rise and lower) the depth of the motor is import to be easily adjusted per different payloads. experiment to find the best depth, mine is when he water is at the drain plug. I also found a slight out ward tilt works best on the motor. The bracket dose not need to tilt because the motor has adjust pins to control tilt. accelerating and hard turning requires very settle through adjustments, anything to fast will cavaite. you can push up to slightly higher speeds, but its not much any turning will negate your gain. I mostly use 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. hop this helps, good luck


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## unlucky (Sep 2, 2012)

I made a handle extension out of PVC pipe. Choose the right side, cut a slit so it slides over the handle. I also spliced into the electric kill switch added a quick connect so that I can kill the engine from the extension handle. I added a dpdt switch and have the center position "on" so if I move it either way it shuts the motor off. Last think I want to do is have to lean over and then take the extension off to kill the motor when we need it shut off now.

Buy a prob guard and add it to the motor. The 4 or 5 holes you drill will be a lot less damage then the rocks you try to chew up with your propeller. Sometimes you just pump mud and other times you get the rocky bottom. You will run the prop into the bottom on a regular basis. When I kill the motor it raises up a bit and that usually pulls it off of the bottom. They are easy to restart. A damaged prop also throws off the balance of your propeller causing damage to the bearings and seals on the lower unit. They are not fun or cheap to replace, neither are props.

Buy the right propeller. There are propellers made for heavy loads, sometimes they are called a sailboat propeller. It will be a smaller pitch. You will get more life out of your motor. Pushing multiple heavy rafts, running your motor into the sand and pumping the super silty water from some of our rivers is really hard on your motor. The right prop takes some of the strain off of your motor. 

Don't forget to replace your water pump/impeller on a regular basis. Maybe 3 years max if in silty rivers. Manufactures reccomend you replace them every 5 years even if you don't use it.

A 3.5 - 6 hp water cooled motor seems to work the best for us. Air cooled motor are too loud and I run them too hard. We have pushed up to 6 boats with my 5 hp motor. I wish I had a 6hp then or we should split into two groups and drag race. It costs ~50 bucks a year to register a raft in Utah and I only use it 1 or 2x per year.

Like also said you can only go so fast with a raft. figure out what that is and just stick to that throttle setting. everything else is just wasting gas and the life of your engine.

I also use a motor lift. I don't use the tilt on the motor. It just falls down in some of the rapids. Use the lift to pull it out of the water

If running a 2 stroke you may want to up the oil ratio a bit if you are always running wot.

I use a strap hooked to the motor lift/extension so I don't have to lean over to pull it up. I never lock the motor in drive but that does not work on all motors

I also run a long strap from the top of the motor bracket to the frame to take out some of the torque the motor exerts on the tubes and d-rings. The motor doesn't seem to dip as much when throttled up.

Don't forget a safety strap on the motor!

Put a big heavy garbage bag over the motor when driving down those dirty roads to/from the river

The motor mount you made looks awesome. I love home made stuff!


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## msmith81 (Mar 26, 2017)

It’s been a bit since I could jump on here and check out all of your feedback. I’m really appreciative of all of your input and help here! Some awesome ideas from those who know this stuff best!

I’m definitely looking into the jack plates and tiller extensions. I’m a fabricator for work and enjoy it on my spare time as well...I probably should have asked questions before I built, but I tend to research a bit and see what I can come up with. Really digging the idea of a kill switch on the tiller and that will probably be an upcoming mod. That’s the most difficult part to kill the motor as I’m tilting. If I can jack it up and kill from an extension that just makes sense.

On a side note I took the boat out for the first WW paddle trip minus the frame this past weekend and was even more stoked on the boat. I R-2’d it with a first time raft buddy, which was pretty much my first time guiding solo outside of pissing off my wife in the IK. We had a blast. I had several rafters ask me if I own it and they were blown away at what I picked the raft up for. All in all, the raft, trailer build up, motor, and frame build I’m just about $3k into it. This thing rolls up not too much larger than my trib tandem and smaller than some of my buddy’s kayaks. Couldn’t be more pumped!

Pics courtesy of Hotshot Imaging.


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