# Adhesive question



## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

Not sure if this is the right place, but here goes. I do know that there are other ww canoeists here, so need to do some repair on a minicell foam saddle. What are you all using these days? My old brain says that way back when we used a countertop contact adhesive, DAP Weldwood??? that's held up for a quarter century. Closest Home Depot is 2 hour drive . . .

Thanks!

Carol K

And California is finally receiving potential CFS!!!



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## nolichuck (Mar 11, 2010)

kanoer2 said:


> Not sure if this is the right place, but here goes. I do know that there are other ww canoeists here, so need to do some repair on a minicell foam saddle. What are you all using these days? My old brain says that way back when we used a countertop contact adhesive, DAP Weldwood??? that's held up for a quarter century. Closest Home Depot is 2 hour drive . . .
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


I used to use Vyna Bond but it got too pricey so for the past 12 years I've been using H66. It works great for foam and d-rings. You can find it at most hardware stores and Amazon.


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## lncoop (Sep 10, 2010)

Another vote for HH66. I've had good luck with it on my canoes, and Christmas Day I dug an old can out of my raft repair kit. Despite being +/- eighteen months old and stored in a dry box outside it was fresh as a daisy. I'd never used it on a raft before but had heard it would work so I tried it on a cut that wasn't leaking (it's an AIRE and the bladder escaped the ravages of the dreaded trailer bracket). Time will tell how it holds up, but I was very pleased with the outcome!


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## Ransomed (Aug 25, 2021)

3M 5200 is a super durable marine adhesive that bonds a wide variety of materials.


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## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback!


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## LSB (Mar 23, 2004)

I always use that contact cement that comes in the red and white can, Dap or maybe Weldwood, Bardge ? any of that stuff that you let dry first works.


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## SherpaDave (Dec 28, 2017)

3M Super 77 spray adhesive.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Ransomed said:


> 3M 5200 is a super durable marine adhesive that bonds a wide variety of materials.


Egads, talk about bringing a howitzer to a fistfight. 

It doesn't cure quickly, but once it cures, it will NEVER let go.

Spray/contact glues are generally strong enough and have shorter cure/dry times.


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## westwatercuban (May 19, 2021)

Isn’t 5200 a no no with boats??


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

westwatercuban said:


> Isn’t 5200 a no no with boats??


It's a marine adhesive.
it just cures insanely strong. Like combine the tenacious qualities of Aquaseal, herculiner, gorilla glue and POR-15
It's not referred to as "52-million" for nothing.

It cures "flexible" but IMHO not quite flexible enough for minicel. It will make a stiff spot.


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## weldernot (Dec 21, 2007)

According to my OC outfitting expert, DAP Weldwood contact cement is THE adhesive to use for OC minicell outfitting work. His instructions for use are "3 light coats with each layer dry to the point where if you touch the glue it doesn't pull up on your finger". That would be 3 light coats on each surface with approximately 15 to 20 minutes between coats (depends on humidity, temperature, and air movement). I followed his instructions for all the minicell outfitting in my OC2, including making both pedestals, and I'm super happy with how everything turned out.

The air, surfaces to be glued, and adhesive are all supposed to be kept above 65 degrees F for a minimum of 24 hours before and after gluing, and you don't want to be inhaling the glue fumes. This means you'll have some "where should I do this project" things to consider. While doing the gluing, I recommend using organic vapor cartridges with a half-face respirator, but I'm fairly picky about what I'm breathing. I will also mention that any pets you might have should also not be breathing glue fumes. The glue will continue to off gas beyond 24 hours. I expect much of this is true for adhesives beyond DAP Weldwood.

The website for the DAP Weldwood contact cement technical data sheet pdf is https://www.buildsite.com/pdf/dap/DAP-WELDWOOD-Original-Contact-Cement-Product-Data-1875954.pdf


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## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks for the info on Weldwood, also hadn't thought about needing to wait until the weather warms up - LOL
Needing to "raise" the height of the saddle by a couple inches to accommodate aging knees not being quite so flexible.
Here's to the pitter patter of rain drops falling.
Carol


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Are you thinking you'd yank the entire saddle out and just add a 2" block underneath to raise it...or will you cut/carve/selectively add 2" to portions on top?

If you haven't done minicel alterations, in addition to the right glue, for tools I'd highly recommend a heat gun, putty knife (for scraping old glue/foam), and surform rasp/60-grit sandpaper. A bread knife works great. An old electric carving knife works even better.
An angle grinder with a 40- or 60-grit flapwheel does quick work at carving minicel. A wire wheel works fast, too...sometimes too fast!

Here's some more crazy tech:
interestingly, you can bake minicel in the oven at 205°F and it gets putty soft. You can then sit on it and it will conform to your body rather than trying to carve it perfectly to fit. Obviously, it's hot. You could wear jeans, but will also get impressions of your pockets/seams in the minicel while it cools. Wear your wetsuit--it's smooth and insulated.

the heat gun can be used (carefully) to selectively heat small portions for molding. You can also use it to burnish/smooth rough-sanded/rasped portions. It will also soften contact cement glues if you want to remove them.


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