# Storage inside hatch compartments



## Electric-Mayhem (Jan 19, 2004)

My Dory, the Wesley, doesn't have any drings or anything. I did my first long trip with it last November and December and I never felt like anything needed lashing down. I used buckets, milk crates and cardboard boxes to keep stuff in though. I think you might find that you'll fill the hatches more then you think you will, so there won't be a ton of room for stuff to move around.

The one exception is maybe the two side/captain hatches. I used a couple of large rectangular milk crates in there. I think it would have been chaos in there without them. I kind of want to make some crates to keep bottles and such and maybe do a lid on top to keep random small stuff in. Might be nice to have a few little shelves in those too. It seems to be personal preference since I haven't seen two Dory's setup up the same way. At least for me and on this last trip, I reorganized the boat every 3-5 days as stuff got used up.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Milk crates are key, the 6 gallon ones in the side hatches, and the 4 gallon ones in the front cross hatches. Trim is more important than what goes where, obviously most of the weight should be center to the front of the rear hatch. I tend to leave the "consumables" such as food and water to the rafts, if there are any along, as I don't like to have to rearrange things as the load lightens. Never had a reason to tie anything in inside the hatches though. My boat has shelves inside the side hatches, little plastic trays from wal mart or some other place makes organizing the small stuff easy, and keeps things close at hand.


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## mcfarrel (Apr 1, 2006)

I've always wondered where you put your cooler in a dory? I've read about all dory trips down the grand not even bringing coolers.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

When I have to carry one, I put it in the rear crosshatch.. Soft coolers work well for 3-4 day trips, small hard rotomolded ones for longer trips. MT4runner made his rear hatch oversized to accommodate a larger cooler


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Great question, cheeze! I wondered the same when I was building, couldn't find any reference to lashing gear down, and MNichols assured me that it all fits and stays put. He was right.

You'll be surprised to feel that your load really doesn't move around all that much. Gravity and inertia pretty well keep your load in place. You can set a beer can (in a coozie) on your deck and it generally won't tip over because your boat tends to follow the water smoothly. Erratic/chaotic waves might be the exception that spills your beer.

You will see dorymen comment that if you hear the milk crates shift, you're going over. There's your signal that your boat is finding a new center of gravity and inertia has failed you.

I did glass in some laminated marine ply lashing points under my passenger seats. The floor there is sloped due to rocker, and boxes/pails don't sit flat there; I used a loose NRS strap to keep my 4gal pails in place.

For just my wife and I on a 7 day Main Salmon trip, a standard size dory is luxurious to pack.

I gave her the entire bow hatch, not sure what she put in there; rain coat and chap stick, I think.
Front cross hatch held propane, a groover, chickies, firewood, a water jug, more firewood, the fire pit, a couple tarps, a small kitchen box, and more firewood.
Side hatches had a layer of beer along the oarsman's footwell (as MNichols advised, keep your densest loads low and in the center - i.e. water and beer), my repair kit (2gal square pail) and both my wife's and my sleeping bags, tent, and my personal gear bag. One 4gal square pail held my "bar". Gotta have a bar if you have a dory, so you can provide drinks to your guests at dory parties.
My cavernous rear cross hatch with the 36" x 42" trunk lid holds a 128qt Canyon/Galaxy cooler, camp chairs, rolled sleeping pads, handwash system (2), and 4-6 4gal pails. It could hold a lot more. I went with a huge lid so the cooler didn't take up the entire space of the lid with no space to pack other gear around it. Another option would be to drop in your cooler and then slide it forward to the bulkhead so you have accessible space for stowing other gear. Coolers are difficult to pack in a dory. Many rotomolded coolers are too tall...I have a Google Sheet if you want one with dims.
In the vein of keeping your weight centered, you pretty much want your cooler right under your butt if it's in your stern crosshatch.
I put the sand stake, rope, TP, and groover seat in the stern hatch. My wife called it the "poop deck". _sigh_

Pick a module and work around it.

I like but don't love milk crates. They're great for beer and 20gal LPG cylinders.
I'd prefer to keep food a bit more covered and am going to 4 gallon square plastic pails. Shop around and you can probably find a grocery store whose deli or bakery uses them. Some use square, some round, some small round, some rectangular. SuperOne/URM foods bakery uses the 4gal pails, and you can also buy them at Menard's if you have one near you. You can stack empties or use them for cans/trash.
I don't like round buckets because the round shape wastes space.
Ammo cans suck for weight and the steel isn't awesome in wooden boats, but having one around is always good for an overflow groover.
Don't mix modules, you'll waste space. Some square, some rectangle, and some round buckets is the worst!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Packing a dory is downright luxurious.

Know how you feel when you’re the first in your crew with an Everything bag and you can haul everything to the beach, toss your stuff in, and sip a beer while the strap people are still fussing with their straps?

now you have time for an even earlier beer while the everything bag people are loading Santa’s bag. It gets to be hard on your liver.

Especially if you sleep on your boat. Roll your tent, bag and pad when you get up for coffee. Stow them. Drink coffee, eat breakfast. Do dishes. Pack the rest of your personal gear while others are just rolling their sleeping bags. Drink first beer while others are last call on the groover. Haul kitchen to beach. Haul groover to beach. Finalize packing your dory. Drink second beer while strap people are loading, etc!


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## cheeze (Jan 7, 2021)

Thanks all for the great ideas and info!


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> For just my wife and I on a 7 day Main Salmon trip, a standard size dory is luxurious to pack.
> 
> Side hatches had a layer of beer along the oarsman's footwell (as MNichols advised, keep your densest loads low and in the center - i.e. water and beer), my repair kit (2gal square pail) and both my wife's and my sleeping bags, tent, and my personal gear bag. One 4gal square pail held my "bar". Gotta have a bar if you have a dory, so you can provide drinks to your guests at dory parties.


Bar for the dory parties, I like your thinking. I line the bottom of both of my side hatches with beer cans standing up on end, and put the milk crates on top of them. I ALWAYS try and pack the boat so in the event it did go over the weight is not only in the center, but closest to the floor, and held there with the rest of the load, dry bags, soft things...


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> Bar for the dory parties, I like your thinking.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

There's only one thing wrong with that picture... I'm not in it!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> There's only one thing wrong with that picture... I'm not in it!


soon!


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## Infidien (May 27, 2013)

I glassed D-rings in my front passenger locker because it has a full width hatch and I carry heavy stuff there (groover, propane, water jug and misc, metal tools) and was concerned about blowing the hatch if capsized. Otherwise it's a freeforall, tho everything has it's place. I had to experiment with containers but like a combination of 5 gal. screw top buckets, milk crates and soft bags/duffles where they fit best. A recycle bin with a homemade bungeed cover fits perfectly and works great for the kitchen. We've found that a good soft cooler will keep frozen meat hygenic for up to 10 days in cool conditions. I do try to load heavy items at the bottom but don't worry too much about shifting as I'm usually too full for much movement, but also feel, without evidence, that weight shifting may help in righting a flip. And I'm with you Mt4, ease of loading and lack of straps is one of the bigger +'s of a dory.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Infidien said:


> I glassed D-rings in my front passenger locker because it has a full width hatch and I carry heavy stuff there (groover, propane, water jug and misc, metal tools) and was concerned about blowing the hatch if capsized.


I can tuck the front edge of my groover, propane, etc under the front seat...figure if it can't shift back that 12", then it can't as easily blow the hatch.
But not a bad idea to be able to throw a single strap across it to take the pressure off the hatch.

anecdotally, I've also heard of gear shifting in a flip and not being able to open the Southco C5 latches. Brad Dimock makes H-shaped latch clamps that guard the latch dogs from getting bound by gear.




> We've found that a good soft cooler will keep frozen meat hygenic for up to 10 days in cool conditions.


Water temperature of the river you float makes a big difference, too. The hatch will generally stay at water temp, which means you don't need a sophisticated cooler on a cold water river....and the cooler can be out of the sun 99% of the time, so towels and covers are moot.



MT4Runner said:


> Many rotomolded coolers are too tall...I have a Google Sheet if you want one with dims.


Just looked at my sheet. The Engel 65 and Yeti 65 are about the lowest height common coolers.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> anecdotally, I've also heard of gear shifting in a flip and not being able to open the Southco C5 latches. Brad Dimock makes H-shaped latch clamps that guard the latch dogs from getting bound by gear.


That he does, they are actually radiused at the top (bottom, whatever you want to call the part where the latch arm swings), I had some "shifting" on my rear hatch after Hermit, and I could feel the latch just brushing the dry bag that had shifted, but the latch worked easily. They aren't that intensive to make or install, I'd highly recommend something similar. The boat is in storage, but here's what I hope is a representative of the idea


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

What is the wood (pivot?) block in the middle of the stern cross hatch lid?

Wow, that's a deep seat. Looks cushy!
I'm thinking a much thinner seat on the little boat just to keep my COG low.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> What is the wood (pivot?) block in the middle of the stern cross hatch lid?
> 
> Wow, that's a deep seat. Looks cushy!
> I'm thinking a much thinner seat on the little boat just to keep my COG low.


The wood pivot keeps the hatch open in windy conditions

It IS cushy, and keeps my butt in place firmly. I would highly recommend it, my little dory Ashkii doesn't have it, and I'm tossed around a LOT more in that, in lesser waters than I am in Bears Ears.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Mine's made from six 3" x 6" x 9" yoga blocks laminated together. Also very cushy.
I do want some contour, will probably make the next one from 2" foam, but carved deep enough my butt will be only be 1/2" above the deck. Super easy to carve, you can also use a wire wheel or flap disc, but they'll remove material in a HURRY, so proceed cautiously! A surform rasp or 60-grit in a sanding block are a more cautious way to proceed.


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## co_biscuit (Feb 13, 2016)

There is a thread on MTB with some ingenious ways to divvy up dry box space, and some of those ideas might fit the ticket for you.Keeping Your Dry Box Organized


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

cheeze said:


> Hi all, I'm new to mountainbuzz. This winter I am building a WW dory with a couple friends, a stitch & glue 16 footer.


You the PDX crew?


Post pics of your progress, we love to live vicariously through others' builds.


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## Idaho_ski_bum (Jun 22, 2018)

Has anyone built an insulated hatch? Basically making a built-in cooler instead of making a hatch big enough to drop a cooler into.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Yes but they’re not common.

_most_ dory rivers are cold enough that an uninsulated hatch stays water temperature and your beer and groceries stay quite cool. Keep a blanket or towel over the deck in the heat of the day to keep the sun’s heat out. Then you use a small cooler for cocktail ice and steaks.


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## Idaho_ski_bum (Jun 22, 2018)

MT4Runner said:


> Yes but they’re not common.
> 
> _most_ dory rivers are cold enough that an uninsulated hatch stays water temperature and your beer and groceries stay quite cool. Keep a blanket or towel over the deck in the heat of the day to keep the sun’s heat out. Then you use a small cooler for cocktail ice and steaks.


Cool. Dorys keep it cool.


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## duct tape (Aug 25, 2009)

In my first dory I put in brass footman loops in both passenger compartments. Mainly to attach stuff like paco pads which don’t fit as well elsewhere, and to fill up an empty (rear) compartment to displace more incoming water. My highsider/bow monkey is often on union strike for bailing, esp if she has to climb back to the rear of boat. 

In my newer dory I just decked over the rear compartment. I’ve never needed footman loops etc inside any hatch. They fill up pretty quickly. I did put a shelf in my starboard side hatch to hold some of my “daily” stuff and to allow tequila/bourbon bottle storage below. If/when I go over that hatch will be a mess but such is life.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I'm strongly considering decking over the stern compartment of Great Falls for that reason, JS. 
Can't decide if I'd chop out the rear seat and run the bulkhead in between all the way to the floor...probably.
Might also make the new hatch removeable to use as a table or leave at home and use the sternmost hatch as a seat on the rare occasion I would transport a 4th person.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

cheeze said:


> What do people do to secure their storage inside of their hatch compartments? I haven't found anything about this. Is it a free-for-all inside the compartments? Or do folks strap things down and integrate D-rings or lashing points inside the compartments. I'm wondering if it is worth adding this into the design now for a couple select hatches before the decks are set in place and it becomes harder to reach in there. Thinking the hatches around the rowers seat where big/heavy items like water jugs will go so they don't clunk around. Or maybe it's not worth the bother.


I added wood block tiedowns in the front and rear cross hatches, but have never used them. all the stuff that goes in those hatches is small enough the hatch lid itself can hold it in place..and gets covered by a layer of softer stuff (tents, flies, chairs, cots, etc) that also helps restrain it. When you pack stuff around for a multiday, it really can't clunk around...there isn't room.

And unless you're hitting some big crazy water on a day run, stuff really doesn't slide around much in class II-III...gravity holds it in place. As one old boatman said, "the moment you hear cans in your hatch sliding, you know you're going over".



Infidien said:


> I glassed D-rings in my front passenger locker because it has a full width hatch and I carry heavy stuff there (groover, propane, water jug and misc, metal tools) and was concerned about blowing the hatch if capsized.


I should have added previously: I do have some wood blocks glassed to the floor next to my cooler at its handles. I do strap the cooler down to the floor so it can't slide around or blow my hatch if I turn turtle...the cooler is big and slick and massive and isn't going to be restrained by a camp chair or my handwash buckets...and it's directly under the hatch and doesn't have anything over it/under the deck/frames to restrain it from banging on the lid. So it gets strapped in all the time. I do strap it tight against the bulkhead behind my knees and have to loosen the straps slightly to let it slide back enough for room for the lid to hinge open...but it's for frozen foods only and maybe gets opened a few times on a multiday trip.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

No shelves in mine, but I don't know if I'd use them. I tend to stuff my sleeping bag drybag and personal drybag down under the side deck/hinge...I end up with a small "shelf" on top of my 2 gal square bucket repair kit where I'll set sunglasses/camera. I also put in a captains bag under my knees for a loose coozie, sunscreen, and chap stick. Don't really need much for shelves beyond that. River guide, loose flip flops or a windbreaker go on top of the pile under the hatch.


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## cheeze (Jan 7, 2021)

On Free WIlly I went with no tie downs or footman loops inside the hatches thanks to you all. After a few trips this year it's just: pile the crap in, shut the lids, and wait for the rafts to finish rigging. 

Only exception: On the captains hatches amidships, i built small drawers that sit just below deck and are only a couple inches deep - one holds booze & mixers for cocktails for the evening dory party, the other holds odds & ends: a couple wrenches, straps, and oarlocks when the boat cover is on.


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## Idaho_ski_bum (Jun 22, 2018)

MT4Runner said:


> No shelves in mine, but I don't know if I'd use them. I tend to stuff my sleeping bag drybag and personal drybag down under the side deck/hinge...I end up with a small "shelf" on top of my 2 gal square bucket repair kit where I'll set sunglasses/camera. I also put in a captains bag under my knees for a loose coozie, sunscreen, and chap stick. Don't really need much for shelves beyond that. River guide, loose flip flops or a windbreaker go on top of the pile under the hatch.


What goes into a repair kit for a wood and glass boat?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Pint of bourbon. Take a sip. It's OK. Boats can be fixed. Share with onlookers.
FlexSeal tape (as seen on TV...really!). Sticky bitch to remove at home, but easy to use on river
Scrap fiberglass cloth and some small bottles of epoxy resin/hardener, gloves, mixing cups...sorta takes a layover to have time to dry the booboo and have time to cure before you launch again
"White gick" aka PoxyQuik (www.downwindmarine.com not on their website but in stock) and window screen (lay out the screen on a trash bag, mix the Poxy Quik, smear it on the screen, smoosh screen in place on owie and hold for 5min
Coarse sandpaper to roughen paint/epoxy for glue or new epoxy to bond
Gorilla tape or duct tape
Some deck screws, baling wire, zipties
Rubber cement
Screwdrivers, pliers, spare oarlock, bits of para cord, rope, etc.









The master craftsman Andy Hutchinson helping me fix a chine ding. Flexseal on the crunch and rubber cement to reglue the chine bumper. Boat is up on a beach roller.

Riverside repairs can be ugly. Don't patch the inside...if you have water coming in, you want to know about it rather than it soaking into the wood. Use duct/gorilla tape on the inside so fiberglass splinters or wood splinters don't snag your drybag or tent.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

cheeze said:


> On Free WIlly I went with no tie downs or footman loops inside the hatches thanks to you all. After a few trips this year it's just: pile the crap in, shut the lids, and wait for the rafts to finish rigging.
> 
> Only exception: On the captains hatches amidships, i built small drawers that sit just below deck and are only a couple inches deep - one holds booze & mixers for cocktails for the evening dory party, the other holds odds & ends: a couple wrenches, straps, and oarlocks when the boat cover is on.
> 
> View attachment 70935


Snacks.


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