# Traveling to Chamonix



## hojo (Jun 26, 2008)

Has anyone on the list made a trip to the Chamonix ski region in France? We're thinking of going and would like some beta on anyone who's gone recently (or not so recently I suppose).

Thanks
-hoj


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## liquidchaos (Jul 11, 2005)

I was just there a few weeks ago, no skiing though. It is an incredible area, just be prepared to spend some $$$$, the exchange rate right now is a killer. If you go this winter, ask for an american patroller named chris.


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## grommet (Feb 9, 2007)

Fly into Geneva, it's only an hour away from Cham. Take the train or a shuttle from the airport, there's no reason to rent a car or anything and there's a good bus system to get you around the various towns and ski areas. You can look into renting a condo, but be prepared for them or any hotel rooms to be tiny. On one trip, we had people sleeping in the hall. The best lift serviced skiing is at La Brevant (the Gondi to it leaves from near the center of town), and Le Grande Montet (about 10 minutes up the valley in Argentiere, which is also a good place to stay if your not too into partying). Grand Montet has sick off piste skiing on the Argenterie glacier and 5000+ vert down to the Mer de Glace, but the skiing can have serious consequences unless you know your shit. Also, the upper tram at Grande Montet which accesses the glacier, requires a separate ticket from the rest of the ski area. Best bet is to get the multi-ski area ticket (if nothing's changed in the last few years, take 2 passport sized pictures of you for the passes). If the snow is any good, consider a trip from the top of the Aiguille de Midi down the Valle Blanch, miles of mellow skiing that usually requires a guide to find your way through the crevasses. If you know what your doing, there are a billion insane lines everywhere and lots of expat Americans and like minded Euros that might be wiling to give you some beta (don't count on it until they get to know you). If the weather socks in, Brevant and Grand Montet tend to close (because of zero vis and avy danger) but Les Houches and Le Tour (I think that the resort's real name is Le Balme or something) stay open with lower angles and/or terrain below tree line. You can also jump the train to Verbier, Switzerland or Megeve and you can catch a bus through the Mt. Blanc tunnel (or the Aiguille de Midi/Hellbronner gondi) to Courmayeur Italy. Have a good trip.


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## storm11 (Feb 10, 2006)

grommet has a lot of good info there. If it snows a ton, check out the tree lines below the Flegere tram. Grande Montet is amazing and the view from the top of Brevant is ridiculous. If you make your way down south, be sure to check out Les 7 Laux, Serre Chevalier and La Grave if there's enough snow.


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## hojo (Jun 26, 2008)

*Train and Gîtes?*

I think I know my shit... I mean, I know know which ski is the left and which is the right and I've got the Pizza/French Fries thing down solid!

The reason we're looking at Chamonix is that Whistler is nearly double what it was last year (probably due to the upcoming olympics). You mentioned train... is there a train from Geneva to Cham? I ask because it's not too clear. I'll do train or bus.

Would you recommend going with a travel agency to setup a package deal? I'm of the ilk who likes to book everything himself. I was looking at the Gîtes around the area. They seem cheap, and probably quite tiny as you put it. I was quoted from an agent: 7 nights stay, 5 days skiing and transport to/from Geneva at $950US. I'm thinking I can get that down to the $750 range if I do it myself (not including airfare... which isn't too bad right now).

Thanks for the info on the hills. I've seen the maps but the terrain seems very much different from what I'm used to.

My dates are Feb 14 to 21. If anyone else is going at that time let me know. We can hook up and you can show me the ways of the Alps, and I'll show you some sick snowplowing manuvers including pole-planting the likes of which you've never seen. It's all about leaning back as far as you can, swinging your poles down and back, and rotating your upper body in wild, erratic motions! lol.. I crack me up.


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## grommet (Feb 9, 2007)

I haven't taken the train from the Geneva airport, only over to Switzerland, but a friend that met us there did, so I know it's possible. Last time I was there, 2 years ago, I spent a little bit more to stay in a hotel in Argentiere with a shuttle from the airport and it was worth it in terms of time and frustration. The first time I went over there, we did everything on our own and it wasn't as cheap as we'd thought it would be. Nothing is cheap in Cham, so if you find the cheapest place to stay (most of them are in Les Houches, La Tour, etc; in otherwords are far from Chamonix town) don't hit up the bars and don't eat out, you might be able to pull it off under $750, not including airfare.

Since you've got the pizza and french fires down, Watch out for the blind chutes on the ridge on and above La Brevant. Some of them have mandatory 50 footers at the bottom. Also keep an eye on the seracs on the Aiguille Verte above Grande Montet which often come crashing down, and learn how to spot a snow covered cravasse on the Argentiere Glacier. I'd also bring your avy gear, climbing harness and enough gear to rappell down some of the mandatory airs and get around some of the crazier glacier stuff if you get way off-piste. Euro ski areas above tree line (most of them and most of the skiing at Brevant, Montet and Le Tour are above the tree line) generally groom one or two runs from the top of any given lift and 95% of all of the skiers stay on these pistes, so there will be untracked lines everywhere, many of which haven't been controlled for avy danger, so stay aware. Lastly, lift lines are a free for all, so don't be suprised when a 6 years old french kid elbows your package as he skis between you legs to beat you to the lift. Don't be afraid to use your elbows.

Wish I was heading over, its been too long.


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## stubby (Oct 13, 2003)

I've done the overnight train from Paris to Chamonix which is an option (although I was Eurarail passing around, so I'm not sure how much it is). And if you're budget, the Gite Vagabond is cheap place to stay. I was there in April and it was only like 20/night.


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## Porkchop (Sep 19, 2007)

*cham*

I went over there a couple of winters with family the main problem i had was lack of snow. I went in late January and it hadn't really snowed all season. I skied the valle blanche w/ a guide but had to take the train down the lower half back to cham. the next day we toured over to the italian side and then toured back in the after noon. while the skiing was just ok the experience was amazing. I guess if i had to doit over again i would go later in the season to increase the odds of good coverage. i heard the crowds in march can be huge. I booked my guide with Yan Raulet his email is valleeblanchechamonix_at_yahoo.fr. I also skied La Plange/ Les Arcs these are two huge resorts outside aimme in the three valleys area. I had friend on ski patrol exchange in LaPlange. we went to a little area called saint foy. they had the best skiing of trip. the whole back side is o north facing and easy to get to. riding the train w/ all our gear took some practice but we got the hang of it. In my opinion if your going to spend the time and money to get over there and you don't know any locals hire a guide. its really not the place to go poking around and you'll go right to the goods or at least the best option. good luck with your travels.


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## hojo (Jun 26, 2008)

*was how to get there.. now, what to take.*



grommet said:


> ... I spent a little bit more to stay in a hotel in Argentiere with a shuttle from the airport and it was worth it in terms of time and frustration. The first time I went over there, we did everything on our own and it wasn't as cheap as we'd thought it would be. Nothing is cheap in Cham, so if you find the cheapest place to stay (most of them are in Les Houches, La Tour, etc; in otherwords are far from Chamonix town) don't hit up the bars and don't eat out, you might be able to pull it off under $750, not including airfare.



So, it's official.. We're going. Well, we're flying there anyway. I have yet to get accommodations but I'm looking at a place in Argentiere. Thanks so much for your input. As far as where to stay, we're still looking at the Gites which are turning out to be rather affordable.

I also need to get some avalanche training. On some websites I saw that the guides out there can provide some training. I've never really skied in uncontrolled areas like that. Whistler last year had great snow but even better avalanche control all over the place. Would you recommend taking gear like a probe and tracker, or just renting from them?


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## grommet (Feb 9, 2007)

Hey Hojo,
Congrats, you'll have a great trip, just pray that they have a good snow year and watch where you step, there is dog shit everywhere, especially dangerous after an inch or so of new snow.

Last time in Cham I stayed at the Yeti Lodge in Argentiere, which was pretty nice and not too bad of a deal. The time before, we rented a 200 square foot condo that we found on our own near the center of Chamonix town, which we found online from some private rental organization if I remember right. Check out the Yeti and see if they still have some good deals. You can walk to Grande Montet from there and you would be in the center of the village and near the bus stop.

If you ever plan to ski OB out here in the Rockies, or plan to ski OB anywhere again for that matter, it might be worth it to get your own pack/beacon/shovel/probes and learn how to use them. If not, and you can afford a guide, rent the gear and have them teach you how to use it. There is good skiing in areas just of the pistes that are controlled for avalanches, so you won't need a guide all of the time, but it's easy to get in over your head over there if you stray too far from the groomed. Have a good trip and ride the Aigulle di Midi tram even if you don't plan on skiing up there, it's worth it.


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