# Leaky seam



## Fishn (Apr 8, 2012)

I have an old Riken (hypalon). One of the seams on the main tubes has multiple pinhole leaks up and down the seam. I want to do the repair myself. I have a couple questions:

1. Should I use a heat gun and remove the outer seam tape and replace? Or, can I use aquaseal along the edges of the current seam and then cover the full seam with a wider piece of material to reinforce it?
2. How does one pull the rubstrake away so that you can work on the seam as it goes under the rubstrake?


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## Ruger9009 (Feb 1, 2017)

I fought that one time with a buddy. I personally would never pull the seam on any boat, or the rub streak, I just don't think you'll ever get it back together like it was before. Does it look like the material is almost decaying? His old Riken had that sort of a issue, when we sprayed it with soapy water it looked like the whole area was a giant bubble bath. We just ended up running a patch up the area that was failing. It sort of seemed like it was going to be a never ending battle on his boat. But it did get him down the river for a few seasons that's for sure. I guess it just depends how much you like that sucker!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Can you show us some pictures of the problem area? 

If all the material is glued down good and not coming apart, I'd prep it for glue and put a patch over the whole area that is 1" wider on each side of the seam tape that's giving you problems. If the seam tape itself is falling off .....I'd remove the tape with a heat gun and prep and glue a new piece of seam tape over it that is wider than the old one.

It's all about the prep. and using the proper clifton glue for hypalon, from NRS. NRS has some good instructions on their web site to help you properly prep the gluing area. Good luck and wear your respirator......


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## Fishn (Apr 8, 2012)

I'll try to get a pic on this evening or tomorrow. That seam does not have any edges peeling up. Soapy water indicates pinhole like leakage in several spots on both edges of the seam. In its current state, it will hold enough air to remain raftable for about a half day without needing additional air. The material in general looks pretty good for the age of the boat - no pinholes except around that seam - still supple and scrim intact. Even if I don't do much to stem the leakage, I want to reinforce the seam to prevent a total seam failure. So, I am definitely leaning away from the heat gun and just overlapping the current seam. I would like to get under the rubstrake though. So, I would appreciate any thoughts on that.


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## yardsells (Jul 14, 2014)

Fishn:

Without getting too deep into the mechanics of your leaky seam, I'd like to offer an alternative.
I sent you a PM.


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Rikens aren't old, they're "vintage." Campways might be getting a little old...
I've been told that the problem with both is that the fabricators (in Tokyo & Korea) used wire wheels to sand down the seam before applying the seam tape. I've owned a couple of Havasu's and one River Rider, worked on another dozen or so, and that explanation makes sense from what I've seen. 
You can lift the rub strake with a heat gun and dull butcher knife, the problem is that when you heat it the material - being thick and "ridged " - will stretch a bit, especially in longitudinal direction. That's no big deal as it doesn't do anything for making the bladder airtight, it's just there for protection - when you go to glue back down, just cut off excess so it lies flat back where it was originally (best to cut on a bias, not straight across).
Otherwise Caverdan has it covered. Thin your glue (toluene) and do repairs between 60 and 80 degrees if possible, low humidity helps as well. Good luck!


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

Riken and Campways boats, as I understand it, did not have waterproof coating inside the tubes. Combine with 2-way military valves, and most of these old boats have had water in the tubes and are slowly rotting away from the inside. 

I had luck using the liquid latex material, I think the stuff Maravia uses. Coated the inside of the tube, kept it moving so it flowed to coat everywhere, and a 1983 Hopi is holding air for days again. 

I don't know how to obtain this stuff. Here in Seattle, we go to Jim Shelfo and ask him pretty please to "bug juice" a boat. It's a royal pain but nothing else works as well that I've seen. 

I've also salvaged a delaminating old Sotar this way. I dunno ... it just works.


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## Ever_Cat (Jan 20, 2009)

Sotar sells liquid Lexatron (urethane) and will ship it to you. This stuff is bomber. Mask off the area with blue painters tape, brush on 6 coats, peel off tape and trim with a sharp blade. It comes in clear and Sotar colors. I have used it to coat multiple wear spots it is as tough as the original material. This stuff dries up quickly so buy only what you need and use it soon.

NRS also sells something called Flexseal that seals tubes from the inside. I have never used this so I can't comment on it but it may be an option.


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