# I need a breakdown frame for raft (Alaska bush trips)



## stinginrivers (Oct 18, 2003)

Check out Down River Equipment, all of their frames break down and they make each frame for your specific boat.

http://www.downriverequip.com/asp/prodtype.asp?prodtype=23


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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

Not sure if they can fit the 34" requirement but...

Before I got my trailer I had to break down my frame to get it to the river. DRE did the frame so it fit together with snap pins instead of bolts which will eventually bore holes through the pipe. 

If I were going to custom order a frame and have it shipped a couple thousand miles without an inspection before having to accept it, I'd go with Downriver. Of all the custom shops out there, I'd bet on them to do it right the first time. Oh yeah, and spend the money for the seat. 

-Andy


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## FrankC (Jul 8, 2008)

Is there a reason you went with a standard floor? You will be hating that thing quick. Make sure the boat is right before you take possession and spend all that money on a frame.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

need more measurments and what are you going to use for oars. a strong frame is only as good as the strength of the oars,call or e mail raymo


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

*yep..*



FrankC said:


> Is there a reason you went with a standard floor? You will be hating that thing quick


 
I went that route because I had to stay under 100 lbs. That is the max weight limit for an item on commercial airlines. It would cost me $600+ to ship up a conventional self bailer, frame, oars, and such. I had to keep it under 100 lbs. I will not be in anything beyond class III. And to be honest, the rivers I want to float with class III only has stretches here and there. This Sotar should be very well suited to the rivers we will float. And it is better suited than anything I saw for a commercial airline. Nothing out there in the 14+ foot range anywhere near 93 lbs.


As for Downriver, thanks for the suggestions. I have contacted them and got several emails. Slow to respond with a week or so wait, but they seem to think it can be done. However, they don't know (or did not say) how to do the seat bar. They, like NRS, use a welded seat platform in the middle of the seat tube. That is where I wanted a breakdown. Not sure what to do about that. I asked for two seat tubes running parallel about 10" apart. Then I wanted a seat with 4 U bolts that would have two U bolts on each of the seat tubes. The two seat tubes would breakdown in the middle and a few inches to the left and right of each breakdown would be a U bolt. I liked this because it would make the two seat tubes break down into four 34" sections (raft calls for 68" wide frame). I also liked it because two seat tubes would provide stability/strength for my 300 lb butt. But Downriver said that they did not know how to use the U bolts. Said that their seat frames were welded. Kind of lost the "custom touch" with that comment. But so far they are the only ones trying to help me. Sent some emails to NRS, but they did not seem overly receptive. They said they could break down the frame where I wanted it, but they had no idea about the seat idea. I guess they have enough business where they don't have time to mess with me. Admittingly, my request are taxing on the nerves of any frame builder. I know it can be done. I just need to find someone with some more time than money. Thanks for any ideas!


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

*Oars..*



raymo said:


> need more measurments and what are you going to use for oars. a strong frame is only as good as the strength of the oars,call or e mail raymo


 
Cataract said they would make me three piece oars. They were quick to respond to my email and said they had several models that could be broken down to several sections. I don't know much about them to be honest. This is my first raft. I am as green as they come. Any other suggestions? All are appreciated.


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi,

Not quite sure why NRS couldn't do it. They have solid aluminum plugs that can be used to join the longer pieces. And while their standard seat mount is welded to the cross-bar, they also sell an auxiliary seat mount that can go on any cross-bar. 

Seems like after you assemble the cross-bars with a joint plug, you could just bolt on the seat mount, then bolt on the seat. Or, you could forgo the seat, and just sit on your cooler or other piece of your load, perhaps with a Crazy Creek strapped to it for back support.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips
VP, GCPBA
gcpba.org


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## tomrefried (Oct 12, 2003)

Call Atlas fabrication (Jim Sheflo) (425) 343-4105 about the frame, He might have some ideas. Jim has built some nice frames (also builds Stiletto IKs) and I'm sure doing a light weight breakdown frame would not be a problem.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

richp said:


> Hi,
> 
> Not quite sure why NRS couldn't do it.
> 
> ...


NRS did not say they would not do it. But they did not answer all my questions. Just kept saying, "call us when you are ready to order" (in a polite way). But I am not ready to order. I need to get this thing figured out first. Perhaps have someone draw me a rough sketch of what they plan to make. Lots of money to do any other way.

As for the seat, you had some good ideas for sure. But we do not take coolers or dry boxes. And the clamp on seat would surely swivel all over the place with me in it. I am a big guy. I want something to mount securely to the seat bar/bars. I need to figure out a way to get the weld out of the middle. I want the seat tube/tubes to break down in the middle. I was hoping for a custom seat base that would utilize U bolts. But neither Downriver or NRS knew how to do it. Which was surprising to me to say the least. I would not have thought it would be that tough to get the frame shop to do this. NRS did say they could make the seat tube breakdown on both sides of the seat. Which in theory works. But at 300 lbs, I worry about a breakdown being on both sides of the seat. I may be wrong to do so, but I just would rather have one break down in the middle. I would really like to have the two seat tubes running parallel about 10" apart as I said earlier. I think it would be better support for me, and I would be less likely to break anything. Then I could have both the seat tubes break down in the middle, and affix a seat in the middle somehow... Aghhh... A tall order apparently. As you can tell, the seat is the single biggest hold up. Also, Downriver uses swages to breakdown the frame. They did suggest bolts over pins. NRS has a different breakdown system. Looks like a kayak breakdown from the pic on their site. Any suggestions on which would be better under my weight? Is one more likely to fail/stick with me on it for two weeks? I am not familiar at all with the components. Any thoughts?

Below are links to the two different break down options I have seen. Which is better?

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1200RBDD&deptid=1055

http://www.downriverequip.com/asp/frames.asp


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## asleep.at.the.oars (May 6, 2006)

Search for some of the frames that Chip has built - he posts pictures. (http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f11/raft-frame-20946.html) He has some great innovative solutions to many of your problems - lots of fence fittings and such. You might be able to make the whole thing yourself and avoid trying to describe what you want over the phone.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

asleep.at.the.oars said:


> You might be able to make the whole thing yourself and avoid trying to describe what you want over the phone.


I like the way you think. I don't mind paying someone to do the job right. I just don't seem to be getting anywhere. I admit I am a type A about some things. Apparently my new found interest in rafting will be one of those things. Off to look at the pics now. Thanks for sharing man!


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## MT_Dweller (Dec 17, 2007)

*Seat Mount*

http://www.downriverequip.com/asp/frames.aspI have the aux seat mount and a high back seat for the rower on my frame, and have not had a problem with it. I am big as well ~240# and row up to class IV+ and have never had it swivel around the tube on the frame. Sometimes it squeaks requireing a bit of tightening, but it has never loosened or moved around. I got this setup so I could attach a rowers seat to a crossbar if I wanted for a day frame, or remove it and sit on a cooler for extended trips. That way I could use 1 crossbar for multiple frame arrangements I would not be too worried about breaking either the NRS or DRE AL pipe, that stuff is super stiff and 300# is way less than the breaking strenght of the pipe, even with the connectors.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

a picture is worth 1000 words. for both strong oars and frame with as little weight as possible. use a speed rail aluminum frame made to fit boat. cut frame and insert 8 in. aluminum rod same diameter as inside pipe of frame. use same tactic on my aluminum oars. then screw sections of oars together as in picture. both paddle and handle slide out. with frame screw or pin frame together. if not familiar with speed rail frames I will send pic.from raymo


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi,

Thanks for the further explanation. If you want, send me a message off-board with a phone number. I'll give you a call and discuss a few ideas I have.

Best to you.


Rich Phillips
VP, GCPBA
gpcba.org


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

MT_Dweller said:


> I have the aux seat mount and a high back seat for the rower on my frame, and have not had a problem with it. I am big as well ~240# and row up to class IV+ and have never had it swivel around the tube on the frame..


Thanks for the input man. If you could, tell me how it connects to the seat tube and what keeps it from oscillating. From the pics I saw at NRS, it looked like it would tilt forward/backward easily. Also, I would be curious about how much pressure it would put on the connector and the seat tube itself. At 300 lbs, I have learned to be skeptical. You would be amazed how many pieces a plastic lawn chair can shatter into when its cold outside. Ha ha.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

raymo said:


> a picture is worth 1000 words. if not familiar with speed rail frames I will send pic.from raymo


Very interesting man. I will admit, I don't fully understand what you are showing me. The pics are too small. As is my insight. Shoot me a larger pic via email if you can. Any insights on speed rails would be appreciated too. 

[email protected]


Thanks!


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## Randaddy (Jun 8, 2007)

RiverBoatWorks in Salida made my breakdown frame and it's BAD ASS. Call them and you'll be happy. My frame fits in a Jetta with a raft!


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

richp said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks for the further explanation. If you want, send me a message off-board with a phone number. I'll give you a call and discuss a few ideas I have.
> 
> ...


Thanks man, but I am at work. I am an ER nurse. I will be sure to get up with you soon though. Sending you a pm. I surely will not turn down free help. I need it more than you know. Thanks!


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Randaddy said:


> RiverBoatWorks in Salida made my breakdown frame and it's BAD ASS. Call them and you'll be happy. My frame fits in a Jetta with a raft!


 
How do I contact them? Searching on google, I am not finding their website/business, just products they sell. Thanks for any info.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Found them. Sorry for being a tard. Looking at their site now. Thanks man!


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## mania (Oct 21, 2003)

other options that I haven't tried yet

http://madcatr.com/

and

http://aire.com/AIRE/accessories-frames.shtml


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Randaddy said:


> RiverBoatWorks in Salida made my breakdown frame and it's BAD ASS. Call them and you'll be happy. My frame fits in a Jetta with a raft!


Just shot them an email. We will see what they have to say. The frames on the site looked nice. I got some good ideas from the seats in their "custom" section. Nice stuff indeed. Thanks for sharing.


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## tomrefried (Oct 12, 2003)

mania said:


> other options that I haven't tried yet
> 
> http://madcatr.com/
> 
> ...


Forgot about Madcatr, Dave does nice work also


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

sorry I did not explain myself better as with the oars I can cut them in two sections and insert 8 in. rods same as inside diameter as oar shaft and held together with removeable screws to brake down to your 34 in. length request. after joining the paddle,handle two section oar you will have a 9.5 foot oar. the same will be done with the frame. you will have very clean and strong frame that will fit into two duffel bags and meet your 34 in. request. weight will be about 75 to 90 lbs. depending on frame. Raymo


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Interesting thoughts Raymo. Thanks for the additional info. You were clear earlier, I am just so new to this stuff, it is sinking in slow. 


Just for kicks, and in case it would matter on designing the frame, below are some pics of the raft. They are from the Alaska Sotar dealer that sold me the raft. When the link opens, you can click "slideshow" in the upper right side of the page, then toggle < or > through the images.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157606621126048/


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

also from raymo looks like you need heavyer duty D rings and more of them to strap down frame . need to think about straps,safety equipment.repair kit,etc.more than a canoe would require. rafts are different in some ways.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

raymo said:


> also from raymo looks like you need heavyer duty D rings and more of them to strap down frame . need to think about straps,safety equipment.repair kit,etc.more than a canoe would require. rafts are different in some ways.


 
Good points, all well taken. Thanks.


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Frame Riffs*

Since you already bought a raft, I won't say that for fly-in stuff you'd be better off with a cat. (Or did I?)

Anyhow, my adventures with frames and fabrication are mostly contained in a few threads on the forum—search for 'Games with Frames', 'Drop Seat Mount', and 'Ultra-light Oarframe'. They include specifics on sources & materials, and how-tos. I'd say the best compromise between weight and cost is to use chainlink toprail tubing (steel, 1.315" OD) and Hollaender SpeedRail 1" IPS joints. 

A couple general thoughts: the worst place to break a frame tube, especially a weight-bearing member like a seat tube, is in the center— that puts max stress on the joint. For an idea on good places to break a frame, take a look at the Sid's Sports frame parts (from Cambridge Welding, I think) on the Jack's Plastic Welding website http://www.jpwinc.com/sfrprt.gif.

These are steel and meant to mate with chainlink toprail tubing. The weight of a frame built this way is quite similar to that of an aluminum frame by NRS— their alu tubing is larger with thicker walls and their LowePro joints are quite heavy. Another dodge (covered in Games with Frames) is to use 1" EMT electrical conduit for your corners, pinned with machine screws. 

Tinkering takes time. If you're in a hurry, I'd get a frame from an experienced builder. 

The trips sound great!

Chip


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Seats*

I've had good luck with plastic fold-down fishing seats (from Cabela's, et al.) They came with steel swivels that I removed. Still more portable is is rig a seatboard with u-bolts and a strap, and put a Crazy Creek chair on it. A friend rowed a 16 ft. cat through the Grand Canyon (18 days) with one— no complaints. 

Chip


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## Spade Hackle (Jun 18, 2007)

danattherock said:


> Just shot them an email. We will see what they have to say. The frames on the site looked nice. I got some good ideas from the seats in their "custom" section. Nice stuff indeed. Thanks for sharing.


I've got a riverboatworks frame. It is great and Ron and Will can make exactly what you want, even if you don't know what you want. You've been quite clear on what you need...they know enough to translate that into what you want!

SH


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Spade Hackle said:


> I've got a riverboatworks frame. It is great and Ron and Will can make exactly what you want, even if you don't know what you want. You've been quite clear on what you need...they know enough to translate that into what you want!
> 
> SH


 
Thanks for the recommendation. I got an email from them today, and they were very helpful. I also got emails back from Downriver and NRS. They seem to have some good ideas as well. While they all have their different design ideas, all seem very sound. Good to have options.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Chip said:


> I've had good luck with plastic fold-down fishing seats (from Cabela's, et al.) They came with steel swivels that I removed. Still more portable is is rig a seatboard with u-bolts and a strap, and put a Crazy Creek chair on it. A friend rowed a 16 ft. cat through the Grand Canyon (18 days) with one— no complaints.
> 
> Chip


Thanks for the input man. The picture you had posted recently of the seat with the 4 U bolts was very helpful. That is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for chiming in man. I appreciate it.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Spade Hackle said:


> I've got a riverboatworks frame. It is great and Ron and Will can make exactly what you want, even if you don't know what you want. You've been quite clear on what you need...they know enough to translate that into what you want!
> 
> SH


 
The one single biggest difference I have seen with the Riverboatworks frame is the curved ends, and use of slip joints. Not sure what to make of it, but it is quite different from the other frames I have seen. Any comments on how the slip joints work. Would they be more likely to stick together, or fail, under the weight of a 300 pounder?


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

from raymo, i am not the person looking for brake down frame for Alaska it is danattherock I was trying to help thanks


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

A simple question has come up. The raft has only a front thwart. It will be my wife and I on the raft. I will have a seat on the frame of course so the lack of a rear thwart is not an issue. Should I get a frame with siderails long enough so that I can put a seat on the foot bar for her to sit on, or would she be better off sitting on the front thwart? Which would be more comfortable on longer trips. We usually go for 10-14 days at a time. Hoping I could draw on your experience here, as I have none. Thanks.


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## raftus (Jul 20, 2005)

The front thwart is fine, but not ideal. If you can make your frame longer and remove the front thwart you gain cargo capacity. It also gives you more rigging options - but it does add weight. 

To your earlier question about frame strength - the NRS breakdown sections are _stronger than _the normal NRS pipe. If it's going to fail it won't be the solid aluminum bar that breaks. 

Something else to consider - people rig 300 lb coolers on their frames on a regular basis on some rivers. Then have 1, 2, or 3 people sit on that cooler. (a 150 qt cooler weighs 30-40 lb empty, it uses 150 lb of ice, and often has 80-100 lb of food or drinks). If you mount your seat to two cross rails you should have no issues, and one will probably do the trick.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Thanks for the thoughts man. I appreciate it. 

I am wondering if I should include a seat up front for the wife. She will be spending a lot of time up there. And with the standard floor, would that effect things. Can she sit on the floor of the raft and prop against the inside of the tubes? That change of position could be nice on longer days on the water. Any ideas?


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

If you want info on floating in remote alaska, go to the source and have a look here

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forumdisplay.php?f=17

*Have a look at Michael Strahans book and info*

*I suspect all the folks on this thread have not actually been to alaska with their boat gear and flown it in a small bush plan ( I have done it a lot) *

*There is not need to have your frame break down into 34 to 36 inch lengths. Alaska bush planes can accomodate all kinds of stuff. If it is to save money on commercial flights to Alaska - hey you are going to remote Alaska! you are going to be spending a lot of money the trip. If you can't pay the freight, go with renting, you don't want to be in some of the moste remote country on the planet without the best gear.*

*Hate to say also that you don't want that big a boat for 2 people, if you need one that big, you got too much stuff. Alaska backcountry trips aint like anything in the lower 48, you should plan like back packing.*

*All the info you need is on the Alaska raft forum. I have a simple 3-bay NRS-type frame and use Star frame knuckles instead of other speed rail or NRS frame parts. Super puma, Front person sits on thwart, I sit on drybox, cooler in middle. No other special breakdown needed, it all fits in the super cub. the end*
*Jason*


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

from raymo to danattherrock keep it simple your wifes seat is going to be what ever she sits on cooler,duffel bag,dry bag,etc. a simple strong clean light weight frame and strong oars like I discribed are best. loading and packing your boat is the trick as far as comfort goes for your passengers.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

P.S. the bladders in Aire brand boats are easier to fix when a brown bear decides to take a bite of your boat


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

There's a boat in the Buzz classifieds that looks pretty ideal for bush-plane trips. 

http://www.mountainbuzz.com/attachments/swap/data/3/river_044.jpg

For two people accustomed to canoe-size loads, a 19-inch Jack's Cutthroat II with would be pretty sweet, with an aluminum breakdown frame (24 inches between the tubes). Nice thing about cats is they break down into smaller packets than rafts. 

But your stick-point seems to be trying to fly your boat and frame as excess luggage. Ever thought about shipping it ahead airfreight or UPS? That's how most expeditions handle bulky gear. 

Chip


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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

*Downriver Seats*

I looked on their website and couldn't find a photo of their seat. Its bomber (like they say, welded), and while it does flip up, its on a couple of heavy-duty speedrail fittings and you can always run a strap around the back (which flips up) to hold it to the frame if you're concerned about flipping the raft or the seat's stability. Also, its really comfy and you can pull it off the boat to use it in camp. 

I'm sitting on it in the photo to the left though its hard to make out.

Can anyone show a better photo of a DRE seat so Dan knows what it looks like?

-Andy


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

shappattack said:


> If you want info on floating in remote alaska, go to the source and have a look here
> 
> http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forumdisplay.php?f=17
> 
> ...


Jason,

Thanks for the insights. I have been in contact with Mike for a few years. Talked with him just the other day. Mike is a great guy. He is a good source of info on floating Alaska rivers and his book is in a league of its own. Tons of info for anyone floating Alaska rivers.

As for the breakdown frame, it is to save $100 (to and from) charges on commercial airlines. We take at least one trip a year so it is not hard to see how much we would pay over time if I have to check an oversized item ($100 each way). I bought the 93 lb Sotar for the same reason. While I will have to pay an overweight charge on the raft, I can fly with it since it is under 100 lbs. Much cheaper still than the $600+ shipping charges. Not to mention, getting to a remote town in Alaska and hoping your gear is there waiting on you. This is very important over the long haul. The bush plane fees are usually $2,000+ for my wife and I. That is on top of $2,000+ worth of commercial airline tickets from NC. It would be crazy to tack on a few hundred dollars more to each trip if it is avoidable. With the raft I have, and the frame I am going to get built, I will be saving $500/trip as opposed to shipping a conventional raft/frame/etc... 

As for the size of the raft, I wanted the option of taking a third person on some trips. The 14 footer made sense for three, but at the same time, should not be too much for me to oar alone. And at 6'6" 300 lbs, I like a little extra room in most cases anyway. We float arctic rivers every year and we too pack light. Going 60-80 miles over 10-14 days, packing light is a requirement. All of our gear fits well into our 16.5 ft Ally pack canoe. It was the rougher rivers I want to float that made me want the raft, not cargo carrying capacity. The gear hammock in the back will hold all of our gear with no problems.

As for the forum, thanks for the link. It is a great forum. I have been a member there for a few years. Lots of great info there for sure. But nobody there really has a need for a small breakdown frame, so not much info was obtained there. Most of these guys are in Alaska and don't have to deal with the aggravation of getting the raft up there from NC. But a great resource for sure.

Thanks for your time and thoughts.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

shappattack said:


> P.S. the bladders in Aire brand boats are easier to fix when a brown bear decides to take a bite of your boat


Good point, well taken. We have some precautions in place for this. The raft will be inside the electric fence at night. If that is not enough, we have a Marlin Guide Gun 45-70 and a S&W Model 500. But I have never had problems with bears. Had them in camp a few times, but they were just being bears. When I got out of the tent, they appeared as scared of me as I was of them. Thank god.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Andy H. said:


> I looked on their website and couldn't find a photo of their seat. Its bomber (like they say, welded), and while it does flip up, its on a couple of heavy-duty speedrail fittings and you can always run a strap around the back (which flips up) to hold it to the frame if you're concerned about flipping the raft or the seat's stability. Also, its really comfy and you can pull it off the boat to use it in camp.
> 
> I'm sitting on it in the photo to the left though its hard to make out.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the thought Andy. I got a picture of the Downriver "captain" seat from them just yesterday. It does look like an awesome seat, but it does not pack very small (assuming we are talking about the same seat). They did have some other ideas for seats that would be more compact. At 300 lbs, compact is a bit scary, but these guys seem to really know their stuff. I will be excited to see what they come up with. If their frames are as good as their customer service, I will be in good shape.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Chip said:


> There's a boat in the Buzz classifieds that looks pretty ideal for bush-plane trips.
> 
> http://www.mountainbuzz.com/attachments/swap/data/3/river_044.jpg
> 
> ...


Thanks for the thoughts Chip. 

We bought a 14' 4" custom Sotar with standard floor. At 93 lbs, it will fit the bill. What we need now is a frame. Biggest hold up seems to be finding an appropriate seat. And also how/where the frame will break down for easy transport, yet be strong and rigid (and less likely to fail/stick under my weight).

As for shipping the gear up, I checked into that before I bought my raft. Glad I did. It would be $600+ each trip. That is why I pursued a raft/frame that I could fly commercial with. Looks like about $500/trip would be saved. We go on at least one float a year, with two a year a real possibility. Tons of money would be spent on shipping. I would rather put that money towards bush fees.


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## alanbol (Jun 3, 2005)

Hi Dan,
I've been mulling this seat thing. The problem I have with what you describe is that you want to put a large load (300#) on a single point, right where a joint is. I think you want to spread that load out a bit. As somebody else pointed out, lots of folks sit on a cooler or dry box (I do), but you don't take those things with you. So how about a piece of 3/4 plywood, 34" long, with some ensolite foam on top (+/- crazy creek), and some 2x2 cleats underneath to keep it from sliding around (and maybe some friction tape on the top of the frame bars?). Strap it down with a couple of cam straps. Or, you could also bolt a chair to the plywood. Either way, you spread out your load.


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## Ture (Apr 12, 2004)

Maybe you could do what some surfers do: when they find a faraway spot that they like and they go there every year for years they end up meeting someone who is there year-round and they stash a few boards at their place.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

alanbol said:


> Hi Dan,
> I've been mulling this seat thing. The problem I have with what you describe is that you want to put a large load (300#) on a single point, right where a joint is. I think you want to spread that load out a bit. As somebody else pointed out, lots of folks sit on a cooler or dry box (I do), but you don't take those things with you. So how about a piece of 3/4 plywood, 34" long, with some ensolite foam on top (+/- crazy creek), and some 2x2 cleats underneath to keep it from sliding around (and maybe some friction tape on the top of the frame bars?). Strap it down with a couple of cam straps. Or, you could also bolt a chair to the plywood. Either way, you spread out your load.


Thanks for the suggestions man. I will give them some thought.


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## danattherock (Aug 20, 2008)

Ture said:


> Maybe you could do what some surfers do: when they find a faraway spot that they like and they go there every year for years they end up meeting someone who is there year-round and they stash a few boards at their place.


That would be a great fix for sure. But we go to different rivers each year. Most in NW Alaska, some in SW Alaska, and the rivers on my "to do" list now are in north central and north east Alaska. Just too many rivers up there to be able to go out of the same bush town each year. But I do like the way you think.


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi,

I confess, the more I follow this thread, the more I think that the simplest and cheapest answer is two cross-bars about a foot apart, with a board strapped across them, and a throwable device strapped to that as a seat pad.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips
VP, GCPBA
gcpba.org


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## alanbol (Jun 3, 2005)

richp said:


> Hi,
> I confess, the more I follow this thread, the more I think that the simplest and cheapest answer is two cross-bars about a foot apart, with a board strapped across them, and a throwable device strapped to that as a seat pad.


That occurred to me, too, but what about the oar locks? 

Maybe 2 cargo modules? one with a seat, and another with the oarlocks?

Or a 34" long (fore/aft direction) cargo module with an extra cross bar? Seat goes aft, where the doubled cross bars are. Oar locks go near the front. The forward cross bar could eve be a foot rest.

alan


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

alanbol said:


> That occurred to me, too, but what about the oar locks?
> 
> Maybe 2 cargo modules? one with a seat, and another with the oarlocks?
> 
> ...


Hi,

Let me clarify. Take a typical frame (NRS or other) of the proper lengths to fit in the airplane. But instead of trying to do something fancy by way of a seat mount, just add a second cross-bar about a foot behind the one that is at the rear of the "rowing compartment" so to speak. Put a rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood over those two crossbars, and strap a Crazy Crreek or Type IV pad on it for the rower to sit on. Not much weight, doesn't cost much, and sure isn't complicated to make.

FWIW.

Rich


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