# Suspended raft floors



## mattman

I often run a set of rocket boxes either side of me in the rowing bay. Good spot for a prone tank to. I can leave the tank rigged, and set up a stove on my Dry Box if I need to. Also two rockets end to end, fore and aft of my cooler and dry box. A couple of straps through the floor makes it pretty easy to secure them.

The floor generally makes rigging easier, but a row of rockets would probably be better, I just don't have the space in my 14'.


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## firemedic521

This is what I came up with recently. It's 3/4 inch plywood that I wiped quite a bit of stain on to give it some oils and keep from drying out. Then I sealed it real well with shellac with crushed Walnut shell for traction. 

1x2 pine to stiffen it. The floor hangs from the frame​ by 6 straps, 2 on each cross rail and 1 on each side rail. It's pretty stable. I can secure 4 rocket boxes total and still have plenty of space in the middle.


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## smhoeher

Your best bet thing to do is go to a boat ramp and see what others are doing. It is very important to use marine grade plywood. It's more expensive but well worth it. Our floors and walk ways on the frame are 15 year and in great shape. I only use them on multi-day trips. 


We drilled holes in the floor corners and looped small nylon straps through them to use to suspend the floor, using cam straps, to our frame. I've also prepared a few other small loops to strap ammo and rocket boxes to. You can't do too many because it will weaken the floor. I used 1/4 round trim to secure boxes in. I have a spot under my seat for ammo boxes. On big trips I have rocket boxes on the sides by my legs. Wish I had a pic but my father has the boat on the river right now!


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## DIRIGO

Thanks for the responses, I'd say I spend ALOT of time at the boat ramp. It kind of feeds my family. Anyways I was just looking for some ideas. Surprisingly, home made captains floors don't show up as often as you'd think.  all good! I'll figure it out, any location in the junction area to get marine plywood?


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## DIRIGO

smhoeher said:


> Your best bet thing to do is go to a boat ramp and see what others are doing. It is very important to use marine grade plywood. It's more expensive but well worth it. Our floors and walk ways on the frame are 15 year and in great shape. I only use them on multi-day trips.
> 
> 
> We drilled holes in the floor corners and looped small nylon straps through them to use to suspend the floor, using cam straps, to our frame. I've also prepared a few other small loops to strap ammo and rocket boxes to. You can't do too many because it will weaken the floor. I used 1/4 round trim to secure boxes in. I have a spot under my seat for ammo boxes. On big trips I have rocket boxes on the sides by my legs. Wish I had a pic but my father has the boat on the river right now!



A picture would be great, I got a bunch of wood and I'll play around with it. But great advice, thanks


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## Electric-Mayhem

I just cut slots as wide as my cam straps with a plunge router and it worked great. Cut the slot, then get a corner round bit to make the slot have a nice smooth curve to it. Do edge of the plywood while you are at it. For my little boat I did one at each end of a 48" long by 36" wide board, but my big boat I do a pair of slots at crossbar on the frame since its the full 8 foot length and needs the support.

If you haven't bought your plywood yet or don't have some at hand, I highly highly recommend MDO (medium density overlay). Its essentially marine grade plywood with a sheet of heavy duty paper laminated on top. Super sturdy, and is very smooth and flat. I decided to leave it untreated (no paint, poly or varnish) and I've been using the crap out of floor made with it this year (40-50 day on the river) and its holding up awesome. If you are a cheap ass like me, a lot of sign companies use it and have remnant cuts of it that they'll either give you for free or super cheap.


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## firemedic521

I'll have to look for some MDO at the sign shops, it looks like a great product with alot of uses. Marine plywood is very difficult to find where I live. I'm curious to see how my standard plywood floors the I saturated with left over stain and shellac hold up, so far so good. One definite recommendation I can give is sprinkling on the crushed Walnut shells into the shellac . It gives a lot if grip but is fine on barefeet. 

Sent from my LGLS755 using Mountain Buzz mobile app


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## T.O.Mac

I got the marine grade that I used on my cat floors and decks at Intermountain in GJ...

Intermountain Wood Products

It was pricey, but was much higher quality wood than the A-C grade plywood I used for the "paco paradise" 36"x72" front deck for the round boat. As it is only for day trips (and overnighters where a full-size cooler is unnecessary) I'm sure it will be fine...


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## smhoeher

I think Intermountain Wood is the only place in GJ that sells marine grade plywood. They have a lot of other wood and wood products too. They're pretty easy to find - west of town off River Road on the way to Fruita.


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## otisdog

firemedic521 said:


> I'll have to look for some MDO at the sign shops, it looks like a great product with alot of uses.
> Sent from my LGLS755 using Mountain Buzz mobile app


DO NOT USE MDO. It is "medium density overlay". The overlay is the plywood veneer that you see. What it is 'overlaid' upon is MDF..."medium density fiberboard". AKA sponge board. AKA sawdust and glue. MDF, when in contact with water, can swell up to 100% of its original dimension, thickness wise. 
MDF is about the worse thing that you could put into a raft.


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## climbdenali

While marine ply may be the most durable option (if taken care of- that is, either oiled frequently or glassed/epoxied and painted), I have had very acceptable results from CDX plywood, generously coated with oil-based Kilz.

It is miles cheaper- about a quarter the price for 5/8" ply. I had decking last 6-7 years with a fair amount of use. I repainted every other year, with minimal prep scraping off any obviously loose/flaking paint.


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## Soup76

Electric-Mayhem said:


> I just cut slots as wide as my cam straps with a plunge router and it worked great. Cut the slot, then get a corner round bit to make the slot have a nice smooth curve to it. Do edge of the plywood while you are at it. For my little boat I did one at each end of a 48" long by 36" wide board, but my big boat I do a pair of slots at crossbar on the frame since its the full 8 foot length and needs the support.
> 
> If you haven't bought your plywood yet or don't have some at hand, I highly highly recommend MDO (medium density overlay).


I always thought MDO was outdoor grade particle board? Are you using particle or ply?


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## elkhaven

otisdog said:


> DO NOT USE MDO. It is "medium density overlay". The overlay is the plywood veneer that you see. What it is 'overlaid' upon is MDF..."medium density fiberboard". AKA sponge board. AKA sawdust and glue. MDF, when in contact with water, can swell up to 100% of its original dimension, thickness wise.
> MDF is about the worse thing that you could put into a raft.


Actually, DO use MDO, it is paper and resin coated exterior plywood. Commonly used in outdoor signs.

DO NOT use MDF, that is particle board and is the worst thing you could put into wet environment. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


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## Electric-Mayhem

Correct...MDO is awesome.... MDF would fail in 20 minutes on the water. The only similarity between the two is that they are coated with a layer of paper.


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## MeetOutside

I’ve just completed my first drop floor build (PHOTOS ATTACHED), which we will put to the test next week on Gates of Lodore. Big thank you to everyone who contributed to this and other conversations on the topic. Very helpful. I chose pressure treated plywood coated with two layers of spar urethane. Probably would have gone with marine grade plywood if it was more readily available, but time was limited. Also added side boards along both tubes and applied traction strips, like you would find on a skateboard. I like the extra weight that it adds and I think it makes our entire rig a much safer system. We’ll see if that all holds true next week. Thanks again everybody.


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## raymo

Nice job!!!


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## NoCo

You dont need marine plywood. I do recognize it as the best material, it is way over kill. If you raft lived in water then yes, but by lives in water i mean launched in April , moored when not used, and hauled out on October. Sign board is fine or regular plywood with spar varnish, spar urethane, or epoxy on it. Here is mine. I mount rocket boxes on either side. Thats why i have the funny cut outs. The double holes is cause i bring the hanger strap around the sides and grab the piece in between the 2 holes.

Its worked well but lately ive been considering running 1 board from under my back cooler, under the captains bay, up under the front cooler since i dont use a drybox. Strapping the coolers down to it will make it solid. Not trying to steal your thread with that idea. If its a bad idea pls talk me out of it.


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## Johnzstz

That looks like a lot of area that has been cut and drilled out. Have you stood on top of the wood while suspended and if so how much flex did it have?
View attachment 59730
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[/QUOTE]


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## NoCo

Its 3/4 plywood. No flex at all, never a crack sound. Nothing. Solid.


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## NoCo

The problem with this design is it relies on having strapped down(from the frame) rocket boxes. This is why i want to build one that my cooler sits on too. The steapped down cooler will hold it from wiggling.


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## MT4Runner

NoCo, IMHO 3/4" is overkill. 5/8" would do it.
I like your idea to span under both coolers.
Another idea would be to laminate together two pieces of 1/4" plywood so you get even more plies (both strength and stiffness and minimize voids/weaknesses) in a thinner, lighter panel. I did this for the massive 36" x 42" stern cross hatch in my dory and it's bomber stout.



Johnzstz said:


>


Your plywood floor is suspended on its "strong" axis.
Your plywood side decks are spanning their "weak" axis (long fibers of the wood face should span the supports, not across them). Have you stood on top of the wood while suspended and if so how much flex did it have?

And if it doesn't flex, you could go with a thinner ply running the correct direction to save weight.


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## cupido76

MT4Runner said:


> Your plywood floor is suspended on its "strong" axis.
> Your plywood side decks are spanning their "weak" axis (long fibers of the wood face should span the supports, not across them). Have you stood on top of the wood while suspended and if so how much flex did it have?


Isn't one of the main points of plywood that each layer grain is perpendicular to the ones above and below?


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## MT4Runner

Yes, but the top and bottom skin see the most stress (top in compression, bottom in tension).

The plies aren't very strong in tension across the grain, somewhat strong in compression across the grain.









If you're using 3/4" plywood and each layer is 1/8" thick...it's basically like having 5/8" strength with 3/4" weight.


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## cupido76

^^^ good to know.

Does that mean I should be selective with my plywood when I buy it to ensure the grain is the way I want? I'm guessing it varies?


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## MT4Runner

Nah, 4x8 sheet pretty much always runs the 8’ length.


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## Bobthegreat

Here is what I got. It holds three rocket boxes, plus everything else.


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## Bobthegreat




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## NoCo

Nice neavertail bob


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## gdaut

Bob, what is that decking and where did you get it? Seems like a great material for floors and beaver boards.


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## Bobthegreat

It’s a kennel and chicken coop floor. Dura slat.


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## aman

Only suggestion is to leave as little space as possible between your floor and the boxes or rubber. Preventing a foot entrapment issue is your biggest concern. So design the beaver board or captains floor to be the similar to width and length of the space the floor will be suspended above. I have about a 1.5" clearance between my beaver board and the rubber and a 0" space between the back of the beaver board and the dry box of my front and rear bays. Same with my captains floor. 1.5 space between the sides near the rubber and 0" where it butts directly up against the cooler or drybox of the bay.


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## caverdan

MeetOutside said:


> I’ve just completed my first drop floor build (PHOTOS ATTACHED), which we will put to the test next week on Gates of Lodore. Big thank you to everyone who contributed to this and other conversations on the topic. Very helpful. I chose pressure treated plywood coated with two layers of spar urethane. Probably would have gone with marine grade plywood if it was more readily available, but time was limited. Also added side boards along both tubes and applied traction strips, like you would find on a skateboard. I like the extra weight that it adds and I think it makes our entire rig a much safer system. We’ll see if that all holds true next week. Thanks again everybody.
> View attachment 59729
> View attachment 59730
> View attachment 59731
> View attachment 59732


I loaned a cargo floor to a friend and he rigged it with straps through the holes like you are showing. He ended up breaking my floor at the holes. The correct way to rig it is to use one continuous rope or webbing threaded underneath the floor from hole to hole and up to the frame or D ring and back through the hole. Then under the floor to the next hole and repeat.


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## Bobthegreat

There is no concern with foot entrapment. Once all the gear is in place it get covered with a gear cover.


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## MeetOutside

Johnzstz said:


> That looks like a lot of area that has been cut and drilled out. Have you stood on top of the wood while suspended and if so how much flex did it have?
> View attachment 59730
> View attachment 59731
> View attachment 59732


[/QUOTE]
Mine is solid with all the holes. 3/4" pressure treated plywood.


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## MeetOutside

caverdan said:


> I loaned a cargo floor to a friend and he rigged it with straps through the holes like you are showing. He ended up breaking my floor at the holes. The correct way to rig it is to use one continuous rope or webbing threaded underneath the floor from hole to hole and up to the frame or D ring and back through the hole. Then under the floor to the next hole and repeat.


Thank you for the insight. My rigging worked quite well on a recent Lodore trip, but I can imagine how running webbing underneath would provide additional support. Always appreciate improvements to the system.


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## MannyAvs

MeetOutside said:


> I’ve just completed my first drop floor build (PHOTOS ATTACHED), which we will put to the test next week on Gates of Lodore. Big thank you to everyone who contributed to this and other conversations on the topic. Very helpful. I chose pressure treated plywood coated with two layers of spar urethane. Probably would have gone with marine grade plywood if it was more readily available, but time was limited. Also added side boards along both tubes and applied traction strips, like you would find on a skateboard. I like the extra weight that it adds and I think it makes our entire rig a much safer system. We’ll see if that all holds true next week. Thanks again everybody.
> View attachment 59729
> View attachment 59730
> View attachment 59731
> View attachment 59732


That looks amazing. Can you tell me how you attached the side rails to the frame?


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## ShotgunBill

Bobthegreat said:


> Here is what I got. It holds three rocket boxes, plus everything else.
> View attachment 59788


Hi Bob, that looks awesome. Just got a new 16' NRS and was hoping to make drop floors and side rail boards. Would you trust Dura Slat for a drop floor in the cockpit? How is the traction? Is it structurally sound to hold a person and a few rocket boxes? This seems like the ideal material for raft boards. Thanks.


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## Bobthegreat

Well I am not able to to comment on how this would work for the cockpit. It’s only in the rear for gear.


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## seydou

MeetOutside said:


> I’ve just completed my first drop floor build (PHOTOS ATTACHED), which we will put to the test next week on Gates of Lodore. Big thank you to everyone who contributed to this and other conversations on the topic. Very helpful. I chose pressure treated plywood coated with two layers of spar urethane. Probably would have gone with marine grade plywood if it was more readily available, but time was limited. Also added side boards along both tubes and applied traction strips, like you would find on a skateboard. I like the extra weight that it adds and I think it makes our entire rig a much safer system. We’ll see if that all holds true next week. Thanks again everybody.
> View attachment 59729
> View attachment 59730
> View attachment 59731
> View attachment 59732



I'd like to know tto how you secured your side boards. Nice job btw.


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## seydou

Bobthegreat said:


> View attachment 59789


It


Bobthegreat said:


> Here is what I got. It holds three rocket boxes, plus everything else.
> View attachment 59788



It does look like really good material. I do wonder how friendly it is to bare feet and its longevity to UV exposure.


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## Bobthegreat

It’s fine on feet, however the only time I’m standing on it is at camp. It’s designed for dog kennels and chicken coops.


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## seydou

Bobthegreat said:


> It’s fine on feet, however the only time I’m standing on it is at camp. It’s designed for dog kennels and chicken coops.



Good to know. Thanks.


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## seydou

Bobthegreat said:


> It’s fine on feet, however the only time I’m standing on it is at camp. It’s designed for dog kennels and chicken coops.


Questions about cutting it. What did you use? How sharp were the edges and did you do anything to address them?


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## theusualsuspect

I've used duraslat for beaver tails and in drop bags. Works great and is cheap. Not sure how solid it would be in a cockpit, might have to run webbing under the middle of it to help support it. Dunno, for $20 you can experiment. Use a circular saw, cuts like butter. Murdochs usually has it.


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## seydou

theusualsuspect said:


> I've used duraslat for beaver tails and in drop bags. Works great and is cheap. Not sure how solid it would be in a cockpit, might have to run webbing under the middle of it to help support it. Dunno, for $20 you can experiment. Use a circular saw, cuts like butter. Murdochs usually has it.


Good point. It's so cheap it can't hurt to give it a try I suppose. I might use a butane torch to melt the edges a bit and make them less pokey.


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## theusualsuspect

They’re pretty smooth when you cut them. I didn’t find the need but no harm in trying. I’ve been running It in the bottom of my everything and drop bags for probably 1k miles and haven’t seen any issues.


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## seydou

theusualsuspect said:


> They’re pretty smooth when you cut them. I didn’t find the need but no harm in trying. I’ve been running It in the bottom of my everything and drop bags for probably 1k miles and haven’t seen any issues.



Thanks for letting me know that.


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## Bobthegreat

Yep circular saw, and I just sanded the edges with a palm sander.


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## RDW1

For those contemplating marine vs cdx vs underlayment. 
Cdx is the bottom of the barrel grade. Inner cores have a lot of edge and inner voids to trap water. C face, D back and X core. If it's 5 ply it may have 1 D center and 2 X cores. You'd be surprised at the crap cores that get layed up in CDX. 
Underlayment has fewer voids. May have solid knots in the core. Allowable edge voids are much less than CDX. The voids are usually removed from the face by plugging. I don't recall the number but your limited to the number of plugs that can be on a face. Keeps high heeled shoes from poking a hole through a knot. Not a big worry on a raft. 
Marine grade usually has more but thinner layers and a clear face and back. Very few if any edge voids. 
Bottom line it is the number of voids and not the strength that makes marine better for wet applications. Although more thinner layers are stronger. 
I wouldn't use CDX on anything exposed to elements. Underlayment is fine if you seal all the edges and exterior voids. Marine grade still needs sealed but it is prettier look if you care about that. Overall I'd choose a good 5-7 ply underlayment and seal any voids and the cheapest and most durable material for a raft.


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## seydou

RDW1 said:


> For those contemplating marine vs cdx vs underlayment.
> Cdx is the bottom of the barrel grade. Inner cores have a lot of edge and inner voids to trap water. C face, D back and X core. If it's 5 ply it may have 1 D center and 2 X cores. You'd be surprised at the crap cores that get layed up in CDX.
> Underlayment has fewer voids. May have solid knots in the core. Allowable edge voids are much less than CDX. The voids are usually removed from the face by plugging. I don't recall the number but your limited to the number of plugs that can be on a face. Keeps high heeled shoes from poking a hole through a knot. Not a big worry on a raft.
> Marine grade usually has more but thinner layers and a clear face and back. Very few if any edge voids.
> Bottom line it is the number of voids and not the strength that makes marine better for wet applications. Although more thinner layers are stronger.
> I wouldn't use CDX on anything exposed to elements. Underlayment is fine if you seal all the edges and exterior voids. Marine grade still needs sealed but it is prettier look if you care about that. Overall I'd choose a good 5-7 ply underlayment and seal any voids and the cheapest and most durable material for a raft.



That is some very good info to know. Thanks. When you say underlayment, are you referring to something like AdvanTech?


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## RDW1

seydou said:


> That is some very good info to know. Thanks. When you say underlayment, are you referring to something like AdvanTech?


That stuff looks like strand board. You'd want plywood graded for subfloors or underlayment. B grade faced plywood would work great but it's usually hard to find. AC grades should have C cores and the edge and back voids should be easy to seal.


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## seydou

RDW1 said:


> That stuff looks like strand board. You'd want plywood graded for subfloors or underlayment. B grade faced plywood would work great but it's usually hard to find. AC grades should have C cores and the edge and back voids should be easy to seal.



My understanding is it used as subfloor material. I know a couple trailer builders that use it as decking. I was wondering what you were referring to when you said "a good 5-7 ply underlayment".

If I end up not getting diamond plate casting decks I will most likely go with MDO or marine grade ply.


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## BenSlaughter

Somewhat historically subflooring was a slightly better grade of true plywood. Either 3\4" or 1 1\8". _Waterproof_ glue, fewer voids 
It's still available, but has mostly been replaced by OSB.
Marine ply is great, but big $$. MDO is where it's at. Slap a coat or two of penetrating epoxy, maybe some spar varnish. 
My rower's compartment floor is 5\8" MDO with a marine vinyl\linoleum over top for no slip, and wear. 20 years old and still (mostly) good as new.


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## RDW1

This site does a really good job explaining plywood types. Plywood Grading Information | Anderson Plywood
I'm not entirely sure about advantech or if it's rated for exterior exposure. Not real familiar with MDO or how it's made either. I can tell you that the mill I worked at made virtually every type of plywood. How it may have been treated after it left the plant, I'm unsure. I can tell you that the same glue and layup methods were used from CDX to marine to luan.


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## seydou

BenSlaughter said:


> Somewhat historically subflooring was a slightly better grade of true plywood. Either 3\4" or 1 1\8". _Waterproof_ glue, fewer voids
> It's still available, but has mostly been replaced by OSB.
> Marine ply is great, but big $$. MDO is where it's at. Slap a coat or two of penetrating epoxy, maybe some spar varnish.
> My rower's compartment floor is 5\8" MDO with a marine vinyl\linoleum over top for no slip, and wear. 20 years old and still (mostly) good as new.


Did you use SeaDek or something similar?


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## seydou

RDW1 said:


> This site does a really good job explaining plywood types. Plywood Grading Information | Anderson Plywood
> I'm not entirely sure about advantech or if it's rated for exterior exposure. Not real familiar with MDO or how it's made either. I can tell you that the mill I worked at made virtually every type of plywood. How it may have been treated after it left the plant, I'm unsure. I can tell you that the same glue and layup methods were used from CDX to marine to luan.



That's really helpful. Thanks.


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## BenSlaughter

seydou said:


> Did you use SeaDek or something similar?


It was done by the outfit that built my frame(American Whitewater)

I'm not sure what it is.
I'll get a picture of it for ya this evening.


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## seydou

BenSlaughter said:


> It was done by the outfit that built my frame(American Whitewater)
> 
> I'm not sure what it is.
> I'll get a picture of it for ya this evening.



I'd appreciate that, thanks.


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## BenSlaughter

seydou said:


> Did you use SeaDek or something similar?












Sorry for the delay, here's a shot of my(grubby) floor covering.


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## seydou

BenSlaughter said:


> View attachment 81053
> 
> 
> Sorry for the delay, here's a shot of my(grubby) floor covering.



Thanks for doing that. It almost looks like outdoor carpet, probably because of the texture.

Any more shots of your setup would be appreciated.


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## BenSlaughter

seydou said:


> Thanks for doing that. It almost looks like outdoor carpet, probably because of the texture.
> 
> Any more shots of your setup would be appreciated.


You'll have to wait a week.
Putting in on The Main manaña! 😎


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## seydou

BenSlaughter said:


> You'll have to wait a week.
> Putting in on The Main manaña! 😎



No problem. Have a great trip.


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## ShotgunBill

Bobthegreat said:


> Here is what I got. It holds three rocket boxes, plus everything else.
> View attachment 59788


I see the Tumalo Creek strap, are you in Oregon? Where you able to buy it locally?


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## cupido76

BenSlaughter said:


> View attachment 81053
> 
> 
> Sorry for the delay, here's a shot of my(grubby) floor covering.


That looks a lot like the vinyl covering on my deck... textured for grip and pretty much indestructible. I like it!


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## Bobthegreat

ShotgunBill said:


> I see the Tumalo Creek strap, are you in Oregon? Where you able to buy it locally?


I am in central oregon, and I was not able to find it locally. Ordered It from farm Tec.


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## MT4Runner

BenSlaughter said:


> Somewhat historically subflooring was a slightly better grade of true plywood. Either 3\4" or 1 1\8". _Waterproof_ glue, fewer voids
> It's still available, but has mostly been replaced by OSB.
> Marine ply is great, but big $$. MDO is where it's at. Slap a coat or two of penetrating epoxy, maybe some spar varnish.
> My rower's compartment floor is 5\8" MDO with a marine vinyl\linoleum over top for no slip, and wear. 20 years old and still (mostly) good as new.


Marine ply if you're actually building boats:

Marine ply doesn't have voids in the core
no other plywood bends as consistently as marine ply
no voids means no trapped water
marine ply for boats below the waterline
And the best news is that it's really, really expensive!
But how often are we taking our rafts out? 30 days is a pretty busy year. And _maybe_ they sit in the water overnight for half of those days if we're lucky? 14 days/year is not exactly a boat that spends 24/7/365 with the hull _submerged_ in the water.

MDO is totally where it's at. Sign plywood. made to be out in the _weather_ 24/7/365.

Construction plywood and underlayment use waterproof glues, but aren't intended to be out in the weather more than 2-3 months while you're framing your house and before you get the roofing on.


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## KCP

theusualsuspect said:


> They’re pretty smooth when you cut them. I didn’t find the need but no harm in trying. I’ve been running It in the bottom of my everything and drop bags for probably 1k miles and haven’t seen any issues.





theusualsuspect said:


> They’re pretty smooth when you cut them. I didn’t find the need but no harm in trying. I’ve been running It in the bottom of my everything and drop bags for probably 1k miles and haven’t seen any issues.


When you say “at the bottom of my everything bag” do you mean as a beaver tail suspending the bag or inside the bag as a flat surface? Tuff River Stuff claims there is no need to suspend gear in modern floors but I find that hard to believe. If you are not using it as suspension, what do you use, if anything? I always liked the idea of an everything bag that has the external d-rings to suspend the bag but I question the durability without support straps seen across the bottom of the bag. Thoughts?


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## theusualsuspect

Inside the bag as a flat surface. That way when i put propane or metal boxes back there they cant dig into my floor. I have a pacific river bag I use and that keeps most of the weight suspended on the tubes depending on how anal I am with it but honestly it never seems to hurt the floor of the boat with that poultry deck sitting on the bottom.


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## JustGreg

Bobthegreat said:


> Here is what I got. It holds three rocket boxes, plus everything else.
> View attachment 59788


That looks like it works great, might have to give that a try on my boat.


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## blueotter

Yeah, where do you get that stuff?


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## MT4Runner

blueotter said:


> Yeah, where do you get that stuff?


Poultry/kennel flooring. There was a lot of discussion here several years ago. Several people noted that it didn't work well over time as a suspended floor because it would sag.









DURA-SLAT® Poultry & Kennel Flooring - 24" x 60" - Black Non-Connecting


An excellent choice for poultry breeding houses or dog kennels, 24" x 60" Black Non-Connecting Dura-Slat Poultry & Kennel Flooring is made of high impact, wear-resistant polypropylene plastic.




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