# Wedging In A Cooler - How Much is Too Much?



## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

I'm wedging a dry box into a boat I hadn't purchased it for. Probably 3-4". Sometimes I think about it and wonder how concerned I should be. I bought material for a rub strip there but haven't installed it.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I'd argue that a cooler's rounded edges and plastic body will be less likely to pinch the tube in a trainwreck than a drybox.
Clean green rivers with no silt, send it. Frequent silty rivers, might want rub strips sooner than later.
big water, no rocks, send it. Shallow river with more chance of rock/wall hits, probably want some buffer space.


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## [email protected] (Jun 1, 2010)

You will need to have low air pressure, about 1/2# - 1 # max to wedge in your canyon cooler and or dry box than inflate all the way later. I prefer my cooler and dry box to wedge in a little. I think after strapping to the frame it helps stabilize the raft to the frame to the cooler/dry box. Everything feels solid and stays in it place in the big stuff. Make sure you have floor clearance so you do not pinch floor. Four inches seems like it might be too much, I'm 2" and that works okay for sure.


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## VanHalli (May 5, 2020)

I have an RMR SBDS-130, interior tube width is listed at 35", so not too far off your dimensions. I have my Prospector 103 wedged in there and overall I think it fits just fine, really only makes contact towards the top of the cooler and then tapers off with the rounding of the tubes. Like Bighorn said, it's pretty rock solid in there. I can upload some detailed pics for ya when I get home.

I agree with MT4Runner up there, I am primarily floating the Gunnison a few times a week so not too worried, but before my Deso trip in August I'm definitely going to get some rub strips in action and keep that area rinsed out best I can each evening.

All that being said, totally love my Prospector. Great, rock solid cooler with tons of tie down options and the rounded bottom makes it a dream fit in the boat.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> You will need to have low air pressure, about 1/2# - 1 # max to wedge in your canyon cooler and or dry box than inflate all the way later. I prefer my cooler and dry box to wedge in a little. I think after strapping to the frame it helps stabilize the raft to the frame to the cooler/dry box. Everything feels solid and stays in it place in the big stuff. Make sure you have floor clearance so you do not pinch floor. Four inches seems like it might be too much, I'm 2" and that works okay for sure.


You've got it acting like a thwart...can't argue with that!


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## TboneCooper (Jul 8, 2019)

In my understanding a dry box or a cooler are supposed to act as a thwart to prevent a taco from happening. If you inflate your raft, then inflate thwarts they will push the tubes of the raft outwards (as least they do in my Aire). As long as you don't have any sharp edges I would wager you should be fine!


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## Down River Equipment (Apr 12, 2006)

Along with the width, the other consideration is the depth under the lip. It is 13.5" from the bottom of the cooler to the underside of the lip. The specs from the top of the floor to the tube on the 126DD is 12" in the center and 10" at the end of the flat. You may have to add a shim to raise the cooler above the floor. The Canyon Outfitter 125 is almost a square and would fit a little better if you wanted to go that route. We have 125's in stock and are expecting Prospectors around the end of May.


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

Blew my boat this evening. Looks like mine is 36" space tube-tube. Dry box is 38". The toughest part is pushing the thwart knuckles in for the fit. You can see the Aluminum rub from my box.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Down River Equipment said:


> Along with the width, the other consideration is the depth under the lip. It is 13.5" from the bottom of the cooler to the underside of the lip. The specs from the top of the floor to the tube on the 126DD is 12" in the center and 10" at the end of the flat. You may have to add a shim to raise the cooler above the floor.


Plus a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" tube and you're just over 13.5 (if your cooler is in the middle). Would still need a shim or a loop strap below if you're nearer the end of the flat.
Hold out for the Prospector, they're pretty darn amazing for rafts. (I have an early Canyon cooler so haven't had need to upgrade, but sure like the Prospector/Navigators my friends have)


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## Almostheaven (Sep 23, 2019)

jeffro said:


> I'm wedging a dry box into a boat I hadn't purchased it for. Probably 3-4". Sometimes I think about it and wonder how concerned I should be. I bought material for a rub strip there but haven't installed it.





MT4Runner said:


> I'd argue that a cooler's rounded edges and plastic body will be less likely to pinch the tube in a trainwreck than a drybox.
> Clean green rivers with no silt, send it. Frequent silty rivers, might want rub strips sooner than later.
> big water, no rocks, send it. Shallow river with more chance of rock/wall hits, probably want some buffer space.





[email protected] said:


> You will need to have low air pressure, about 1/2# - 1 # max to wedge in your canyon cooler and or dry box than inflate all the way later. I prefer my cooler and dry box to wedge in a little. I think after strapping to the frame it helps stabilize the raft to the frame to the cooler/dry box. Everything feels solid and stays in it place in the big stuff. Make sure you have floor clearance so you do not pinch floor. Four inches seems like it might be too much, I'm 2" and that works okay for sure.





VanHalli said:


> I have an RMR SBDS-130, interior tube width is listed at 35", so not too far off your dimensions. I have my Prospector 103 wedged in there and overall I think it fits just fine, really only makes contact towards the top of the cooler and then tapers off with the rounding of the tubes. Like Bighorn said, it's pretty rock solid in there. I can upload some detailed pics for ya when I get home.
> 
> I agree with MT4Runner up there, I am primarily floating the Gunnison a few times a week so not too worried, but before my Deso trip in August I'm definitely going to get some rub strips in action and keep that area rinsed out best I can each evening.
> 
> All that being said, totally love my Prospector. Great, rock solid cooler with tons of tie down options and the rounded bottom makes it a dream fit in the boat.





Down River Equipment said:


> Along with the width, the other consideration is the depth under the lip. It is 13.5" from the bottom of the cooler to the underside of the lip. The specs from the top of the floor to the tube on the 126DD is 12" in the center and 10" at the end of the flat. You may have to add a shim to raise the cooler above the floor. The Canyon Outfitter 125 is almost a square and would fit a little better if you wanted to go that route. We have 125's in stock and are expecting Prospectors around the end of May.


Thank you all for the great responses. 
MT4Runner - I like your basic attitude of just sending it!
Bighorn - Thanks for more context, your original post was what even got me considering this option.
jeffro - Another vote for making it work, and it looks like by the time you add the thwart nuckles, you probably are at about 3" of wedging.
VanHalli - I'm paddling mostly clear streams, but the rub strips idea is a good thought if I do go this route - and to give me more peace of mind. 
DRE - I looked at the 125, but I really love the 103's features and I'm not thrilled about the extra 2" of height on the 125, especially if I put a 3" paco or two and a guest up there (I'm already challenged seeing over a passenger). I was also closely thinking about the height, even though it looks like it clears in Bighorn's original thread picture, but your shim idea is good - I seem to remember seeing one shimmed in a thread on here somewhere. Suggestions on best method to do it?


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## [email protected] (Jun 1, 2010)

MT4Runner said:


> Plus a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" tube and you're just over 13.5 (if your cooler is in the middle). Would still need a shim or a loop strap below if you're nearer the end of the flat.
> Hold out for the Prospector, they're pretty darn amazing for rafts. (I have an early Canyon cooler so haven't had need to upgrade, but sure like the Prospector/Navigators my friends have)


Here is photos of how I raised my Canyon cooler with commercial self-sticking Velcro and 1" pvc. It has lasted for 5 years. I started with 2" and adjusted to 1 ".


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## cupido76 (May 22, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Here is photos of how I raised my Canyon cooler with commercial self-sticking Velcro and 1" pvc. It has lasted for 5 years. I started with 2" and adjusted to 1 ".
> View attachment 65350


I like it.

Another way is just a plywood cutout (or 2 depending on your needs) that goes around the outside of the cooler but under the lip.


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## jvskinn (Apr 14, 2021)

Hey guys, I’ve always worrying about abrasion on my tubes from cooler/drybox etc, but now reading this thread I’m wondering if my worries are overblown. Is it something that’s just not really a concern? Does it depend on the River? Raft material? Seems like my nrs outlaw (pvc) might be more sensitive to abrasion than others. Would love to hear someone with more experience than me share their thoughts.


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## [email protected] (Jun 1, 2010)

Your cooler or dry box should not be any worse than frames are, probably less than many frames are IMO.


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## redrocks25 (May 21, 2020)

Agree the prospector needs a lift, or else it’s hard to access the clasps, and also, on my rig, need a lift on backside of cooler to clear table/bench in front bay.

I used 3/4 marine hdpe, routed and bonded with 3M VHB tape. Notched for strap pass through.





























[email protected] said:


> Here is photos of how I raised my Canyon cooler with commercial self-sticking Velcro and 1" pvc. It has lasted for 5 years. I started with 2" and adjusted to 1 ".


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## OldBalls (Jun 26, 2018)

I have a 126DD and an out-of-production mammoth 98qt that's 34.5 across the bottom and is not very tall. Dimensionally it's about perfect. It is does push against the tubes a little and rubs about as much as I'm comfortable with. I would not want much wider or I think I'd have to hang it several inches higher. For me it's hard to see a cooler that's 2.5" wider as a good fit - but only one way to know for sure...


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## RyanOBrian (Aug 16, 2016)

I just did the same thing... made from a $4 of wood trim and that good velcro stuff. It was supposed to be temporary.... but has become permanent while it lasts


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