# Side rails / walkway



## 1mauisurf

I have a 18' Aire Leopard cat with an NRS Fat Cat frame. I would like to install side rail walkways the full length. I have been looking at these from NRS but 20' of these is very expensive.

https://www.nrs.com/product/93010.03/nrs-frame-side-rail-racks

Anybody have a clean method for making these at home ? How to attach to the frame ?

Pictures?


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## bcpnick

I like to make my own out of finished birch plywood. I attach them with NRS U bolts and sex bolts to create a smooth finish on top and allow the crossbars between the back and front to still be moveable. I've done this for several years and on a couple of different boats and I'm about to do it on my new boat. I like how it looks and functions. 

Lots of pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WJYsb3z7egf1cn7r7


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## 1mauisurf

So its only attached on the 2 ends. I like that. Looks clean. Are those "T" nuts ? Where did you get those ?


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## bcpnick

Yeah, it has worked very well for me. The only issue I ever had was when I strapped something around the board pulling hard inward and it made the board budge a bit. I tightened down the sex bolt and it fixed it, but on my next iteration I think I'm going to do a pair of U bolts on each end instead of just one. 

Those sex bolts for attaching to the U bolts can be tough to find or just really, really expensive. I haven't been able to find them in stainless at a price I'm willing to pay, so I've been using these: https://www.grainger.com/product/1CJW1


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## MontanaLaz

I also went the birch plywood route and routed in slots for tie down points. Instead of bolting mine down, which was the original plan, I ultimately decided to strap them on using 1' straps. For traction, I mixed some large glitter flakes into the poly. Sparkles and safety


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## bcpnick

I'd like to see your sparkles! I thought about adding traction in on mine but I've never had any issues with them getting slippery. Still thinking about it for the ones I'm about to make though. I'm also adding slots for attaching gear on my new ones but still bolting down the ends.


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## Fly By Night

Thanks for the link to those nuts! I've been looking all over to find those in the correct size to fit U bolts.


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## 1mauisurf

Thanks for the link. Is that the correct size for the NRS U bolt's ?


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## bcpnick

1mauisurf said:


> Thanks for the link. Is that the correct size for the NRS U bolt's ?


Yes. Those definitely fit standard NRS U bolts. I just ordered more for my new raft that I'm working on.


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## 1mauisurf

MontanaLaz said:


> I also went the birch plywood route and routed in slots for tie down points. Instead of bolting mine down, which was the original plan, I ultimately decided to strap them on using 1' straps. For traction, I mixed some large glitter flakes into the poly. Sparkles and safety


Cool. I like to use salt for the non skid, just in case there is some Tequila on the trip. Or, I could use sugar in anticipation of some Mojito's.


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## MT4Runner

That's a great detail, bcpnick.


1mauisurf: NRS u-bolts are 5/16-18. There really isn't a good substitute--they're about the right size/diameter/length, they're stainless, and they have that great flattened bend that you don't get with a hardware store u-bolt. When you compare the cost of a SS hardware store U-bolt, they're quite comparable.

Coincidentally the same size thread as Roll-a-table legs. I don't know what you should do with that information, but it's interesting to me!


The Grainger nuts linked are not stainless. It wouldn't hurt to use some anti-seize on them...or even Loctite (which also tends to keep water/air out and corrosion down)

MontanaLaz, you can also use crushed walnut shells for traction. They're not quite as abrasive as sand..but the glitter sounds awesome!


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## 1mauisurf

MT4Runner said:


> That's a great detail, bcpnick.
> 
> 
> 1mauisurf: NRS u-bolts are 5/16-18. There really isn't a good substitute--they're about the right size/diameter/length, they're stainless, and they have that great flattened bend that you don't get with a hardware store u-bolt. When you compare the cost of a SS hardware store U-bolt, they're quite comparable.
> 
> Coincidentally the same size thread as Roll-a-table legs. I don't know what you should do with that information, but it's interesting to me!
> 
> 
> The Grainger nuts linked are not stainless. It wouldn't hurt to use some anti-seize on them...or even Loctite (which also tends to keep water/air out and corrosion down)
> 
> MontanaLaz, you can also use crushed walnut shells for traction. They're not quite as abrasive as sand..but the glitter sounds awesome!


I meant the T nuts being the right size. I do love those NRS U bolts. I use them for other things as well.


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## smhoeher

We used marine grade plywood and 2 hose clamps at each end. No issues or concerns after 15+ years. Marine grade plywood can be price. Pressure treated plywood with spar varnish could be a good alternative.


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## MT4Runner

Pressure treated ply can be pretty nasty stuff. Not something I like to get a splinter. 
I'd rather stick to untreated ply, but epoxy saturate and then varnish.

FWIW, most doug fir marine plywoods use the same resorcinol glues as exterior ply; they just have fewer or no voids, and the glue tends to be spread more evenly. Doug fir still checks when it gets wet, so regular coating with spar varnish is a really good suggestion.


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## IDriverRunner

I went with a 3' section on either side of the oar mount, for a total of four 3' sections on my frame. It was pricey, but glad I have them.


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## heyben

I used the same hardware as Nick (Thanks again for your help when I was sourcing the nuts a couple of years ago). Instead of plywood I used MDO signboard for the rails, and then painted with a deck/patio paint. Works great and two seasons later they're holding up fine.


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## codycleve

Here is my latest rendition.

For wood I used 3/4" CDX painted with several coats of Cabot deck correct. 

I Just attach mine with about 6 or 8 heavy duty zip ties. 

To maximize the deck area I rest the deck on the fittings, and then use whitewater machine works threaded plastic puck to help provide support where there is none. This also makes a great gap so that you can run straps through.


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## T.O.Mac

Based on bcpnick's model, I did the same thing, but attached them fore, aft, and on my seat bar. I can still adjust most of my frame, but three points made me feel happier!


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## bcpnick

T.O.Mac said:


> Based on bcpnick's model, I did the same thing, but attached them fore, aft, and on my seat bar. I can still adjust most of my frame, but three points made me feel happier!


Good thinking. I was actually thinking I'd do the same thing now since I'm quite sure I won't ever want to move that bar.


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## MT4Runner

codycleve said:


> Here is my latest rendition.
> 
> For wood I used 3/4" CDX painted with several coats of Cabot deck correct.


Is that the grippy urethane-type stuff? How do you like it, or did you just build the decks this winter?


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## PAU in a NRS

Sometime long ago in another thread on this same topic Iposted this out dated picture of my side rails. I redone them again as I now have a double rail frame. The side rails are made of recycled plastic approximately5/8 of an inch thick. They have served mewell, no maintenance easy to work with. Sorry to say the picture provided is the 1st set. My 2nd set are much better learnedfrom my mistakes. This product is meant tobe used in semi-trailer to protect the walls while loading pallets with forklifts so its tuff. My most recent trip wason the Grant 100 degrees days they held up great!


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## PAU in a NRS

I think I got it


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## codycleve

MT4Runner said:


> Is that the grippy urethane-type stuff? How do you like it, or did you just build the decks this winter?



Hey the pictures are of a new winter project, but I had the same stuff on my old AIRE Lion. The decks on that thing where 12' Long and I really liked it. I really don't see myself going in any other direction. they can tint it several differnt colors. I think Behr deckover was the first product like this, but this seems better. 

You can use a more aggressive nap roller to add more grit if you want, but i found the medium nap to be just right. you can start with an aggressive roller and then brush it down to your liking also. 

Here is a picture of my old cat


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## NedPimkin

I have an Aire Leopard with a modified NRS frame. My frame is ~12' long and I added a 3rd yoke to stiffen it up. My decks are only 8' long and ~12-14"wide. The other 4' of frame are a bay with a drybox and 2 water jugs that lay at an angle and a table that stretches across the full width of the frame up front. 

I notched around the NRS LowPros and cut many strap holes. The decks rest on the cross bars and I added a little blocking where the yokes drop down a bit. I attach the decks with three 1' straps and a few loop straps go around the frame bars and the decks. They have never moved on me, but you can loosen the straps if you need to.

I did my 1st set with less expensive with exterior grade 3/4" plywood. I sealed them up with several coast of a water based urethane with a little sand sprinkled on between some the early coats. I wanted to get it dialed before I spent a ~$120/sheet on marine plywood. These lasted 7+ years before they started to degrade. I made a new set last year with marine plywood. If you are worried about moving your bars you can make the LowPro notches a little bigger. I made the slot for my oars about 8" bigger so I can move the oar towers for a shorter/taller rower.

The decks have been great.


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## matzner

Hi bcpnick:

Is that a sling under the rocket boxes? Are they off the floor? And are they held down by other unseen straps?

Thanks
DM


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## MT4Runner

matzner said:


> Is that a sling under the rocket boxes? Are they off the floor? And are they held down by other unseen straps?



Looks like a narrow drop bag.
You'd have to run a strap, (or a bench seat or table) over them to rig them against a flip.


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## codycleve

looks like a salmon river sling.. here is a link

https://cascaderivergear.com/shop/salmon-river-sling-updated/


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## bcpnick

It's just a narrow drop bag, not the Salmon River Sling. I put loop straps across the top of them on the river. I'm getting a new one made for my new raft that's kind of like the salmon river sling with integrated top straps, but a little different.


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## matzner

That Salmon sling looks like just what I need.

Thanks
DM


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## bcpnick

A friend of mine has the salmon sling and he hates it. The buckles for the cam straps are right at the seam of the bag making them really hard to get to when you're rigging if it's up against other things like a dry box or your gear pile in the back. I think it would be a much better design if they positioned the buckles to rest on top of the rocket boxes. I'm also a little skeptical of having the hanging straps only on each end. I like having straps down the side like a normal drop bag. The one I'm getting made will be like a normal drop bag with a single strap over the top of each rocket box. It gets strapped down even more by stuff I put on top of it so it should be plenty secure.


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## elkhaven

here's another anti skid option: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-279847-EPOXYShield-Anti-3-4-Ounce/dp/B001005ZY0/ref=asc_df_B001005ZY0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198091577722&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13288540719798852535&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020859&hvtargid=pla-348885270376&psc=1

I've used everything mentioned above, from sand, to walnut shells (was looking for fine walnut when I found this stuff) to Behr Deck-over (thumbs down, didn't stick well, peeled in a year). This oxide is just right for me, like very, very fine sand.... easy on exposed skin but has great traction. Just another option for you folks...

I intended to bolt my side decks down but strapped them temporarily... strapping works fine and is easy to remove. Perhaps someday I'll find the time to work on bolting them down.


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## bcpnick

For what it's worth, I've done three sets of boards just using spar urethane and I'm totally happy with the level of traction. I've strongly considered adding something in, but I just haven't needed it. It gets wet and muddy and I've never slipped on it or felt like it was slippery enough to warrant something more. And I like the smoothness of not having traction added in when I kneel down on it.


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## matzner

bcpnick said:


> A friend of mine has the salmon sling and he hates it. [snip]I like having straps down the side like a normal drop bag. The one I'm getting made will be like a normal drop bag with a single strap over the top of each rocket box. It gets strapped down even more by stuff I put on top of it so it should be plenty secure.


All of the flaws you mentioned with the Salmon Bag make sense. Can you provide more detail about your custom bag? Is the maker a company? Cost? Do you have a pic or sketch? For me, I'd go with two straps over the top - those boxes can get heavy and in my rig I may not have anything else over the top. 

Thanks
DM


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## Fly By Night

Has anyone had luck using 1/2" ply? I have some really pretty veneered 1/2" laying around I was hoping to make some sideboards out of, my main reservation is the span over the captians bay, I'd thought about running some aluminium under there or glueing/ screwing a strip of plywood on end to add some strength.

How much room is wise to leave between the inside of sideboards and coolers/ dry boxes?


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## bcpnick

matzner said:


> All of the flaws you mentioned with the Salmon Bag make sense. Can you provide more detail about your custom bag? Is the maker a company? Cost? Do you have a pic or sketch? For me, I'd go with two straps over the top - those boxes can get heavy and in my rig I may not have anything else over the top.
> 
> Thanks
> DM


I'm going to order it through Stitches 'n Stuff. I haven't gotten a cost yet but based on the info on their website I figure it'll be around $100-$120. They made some cat floors for me last year and were really great to work with. I'll probably order it and a custom drop bag for my front bay next week once I get a few other things set. I might still do the two straps for each box, or perhaps a long strap that goes from end to end and goes over both boxes in addition to straps going side to side.


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## bcpnick

Fly By Night said:


> How much room is wise to leave between the inside of sideboards and coolers/ dry boxes?


I think it's mostly just personal preference and how far your frame extends over the center of the tubes. I set my frame up to bet a little wider to accommodate wider boards without extending much into the inside of the raft and I think it was about perfect. I wouldn't want it to extend much further in than how I had it. That probably left 4-5" or so between side boards and cooler/drybox. You can see it pretty well in my pics on the first page of this thread.


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## whiskey_river

Don't forget the built in drink holders!

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Mountain Buzz mobile app


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## KipG

I'm wondering if anybody has put any type of foam mat or neoprene on the boards?


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## SherpaDave

KipG said:


> I'm wondering if anybody has put any type of foam mat or neoprene on the boards?




I used super 77 to glue a sleeping pad to the passenger board. It works but I don’t think it’ll last many years.


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## Fly By Night

KipG said:


> I'm wondering if anybody has put any type of foam mat or neoprene on the boards?


They make pads like you suggest for power boats, they can be purchased in different styles, I've seen one that looks like teak that looks real sharp. 

Check these guys out they have miles of neat squishy stuff.

https://northshoreinc.com


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## MT4Runner

That stuff a lot more durable than a sleeping mat, but is also very spendy. I have seen it used on the deck of a dory.


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## codycleve

KipG said:


> I'm wondering if anybody has put any type of foam mat or neoprene on the boards?


You can buy whole sheets of seadeck that is made for boats.. its kinda spendy but it was 50% off on black friday.. one sheet did a dry box top and 3 coolers. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


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## codycleve

Seadecked coolers and drybox 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


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## Gearman

I personally can attest to the beauty of the sparkling long planks! Magnificent in the sun of Deso! There's another reason he uses straps......... Quick release for the transformation into the "Bad Ass" smorgasbord table! Can't wait to see the new version with upgrades!


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## MT4Runner

Fly By Night said:


> Has anyone had luck using 1/2" ply? I have some really pretty veneered 1/2" laying around I was hoping to make some sideboards out of, my main reservation is the span over the captians bay, I'd thought about running some aluminium under there or glueing/ screwing a strip of plywood on end to add some strength.
> 
> How much room is wise to leave between the inside of sideboards and coolers/ dry boxes?


1/2" is not that strong over a span. If you have a double rail frame, it's probably fine; if you have a single rail frame, I think you want that aluminum or wood rib running lengthwise. I don't think you need a short strip across the width of 1/2".
Epoxy/fiberglass is another idea that will not only add strength, but also keep the plywood dry...and keep the veneer from checking.


You could go as little as 1/2" each side between side boards and drybox/cooler.. You might get rubbing/squeaks if it's tight. If it's 1.5", it seems like a bad place to catch a thumb or toe.



codycleve said:


> Hey the pictures are of a new winter project, but I had the same stuff on my old AIRE Lion. The decks on that thing where 12' Long and I really liked it. I really don't see myself going in any other direction. they can tint it several differnt colors. I think Behr deckover was the first product like this, but this seems better.
> 
> You can use a more aggressive nap roller to add more grit if you want, but i found the medium nap to be just right. you can start with an aggressive roller and then brush it down to your liking also.
> 
> Here is a picture of my old cat


Sorry I missed this post earlier. Thanks for the beta!
Any issues with the doug fir checking under the deckover? I saw another poster mention that as an issue. Was thinking I'd glass the ply to seal it and eliminate checking, then use deckover for the finish.


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## bcpnick

Almost done putting my new raft together. Put my new boards on today and got my customized rocket box sling from Stitches 'n Stuff earlier this week. I wasn't so sure about the padded divider, but I'm really liking it. Sliding the boxes in is easier than the old drop bag I used and you always place it right where it needs to be the first time thanks to that divider. The bottom is also padded with some ethofoam. I had Jan customize the straps that go over the boxes so they would rest on top of each box. There are D rings on each end for a loop strap to go over both boxes. I really like it.


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## jonas_f

I have single continuous shaped to dry boxes and cooler 1/2” HDPE that is held on by 1 3/4” vinyl coated loom clamps on my DRE frame with aluminum flat sided bolts.

Getting the HDPE is the trick, $230 a sheet (which is a bit more spendy then marine grade plywood), getting it shipped is likely a disaster to the wallet. I was lucky and my buddy got a slug of free sheets from his project site a couple years ago.

Gotta say, cuts like butter, routes beautifully, isn’t nearly as slick as I thought, durable as all hell, and cleans up real nice.


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## ckops

I could get some pics tomorrow, but I used Trek decking for Lowe's and some stainless pipe/conduit clamps. I covered them in 1" tubular webbing to avoid any rubbing on the raft itself. I think I like the idea of Ubolts better, but the Trek decking holds up really well. It has the same issue with flexing if I try to tie to it, so more clamps would have been better.


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## cupido76

ckops said:


> I could get some pics tomorrow, but I used Trek decking for Lowe's and some stainless pipe/conduit clamps. I covered them in 1" tubular webbing to avoid any rubbing on the raft itself. I think I like the idea of Ubolts better, but the Trek decking holds up really well. It has the same issue with flexing if I try to tie to it, so more clamps would have been better.


I had synthetic decking attached to my frame with u-bolts once... But it was SOOOO heavy.

I boat solo sometimes, and even when I'm not solo I'm often the guy at the river a day early to set everything up... It was too heavy with the decking permanently attached.

So I now run a wood deck that I have to rig each trip. A little more time but manageable by one person.


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## Eyedaho

*Aluminum tracks*



bcpnick said:


> Almost done putting my new raft together. Put my new boards on today and got my customized rocket box sling from Stitches 'n Stuff earlier this week. I wasn't so sure about the padded divider, but I'm really liking it. Sliding the boxes in is easier than the old drop bag I used and you always place it right where it needs to be the first time thanks to that divider. The bottom is also padded with some ethofoam. I had Jan customize the straps that go over the boxes so they would rest on top of each box. There are D rings on each end for a loop strap to go over both boxes. I really like it.
> 
> bcpnick, What are you using the aluminum tracks for near your oar towers?


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## bcpnick

Eyedaho said:


> bcpnick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Almost done putting my new raft together. Put my new boards on today and got my customized rocket box sling from Stitches 'n Stuff earlier this week. I wasn't so sure about the padded divider, but I'm really liking it. Sliding the boxes in is easier than the old drop bag I used and you always place it right where it needs to be the first time thanks to that divider. The bottom is also padded with some ethofoam. I had Jan customize the straps that go over the boxes so they would rest on top of each box. There are D rings on each end for a loop strap to go over both boxes. I really like it.
> 
> bcpnick, What are you using the aluminum tracks for near your oar towers?
> 
> 
> 
> Those are slide tracks for my bimini.
Click to expand...


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## Eyedaho

bcpnick said:


> Eyedaho said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those are slide tracks for my bimini.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhh, that makes sense. Thanks!
Click to expand...


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## ckops

The weight of not using synthetic makes sense.


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## bcpnick

Personally, I just really prefer the look of finished wood.


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## Eyedaho

bcpnick said:


> Personally, I just really prefer the look of finished wood.


Is that a 156D that you're setting up by any chance? If so, I will call SnS and order that exact same rocket box sling. It looks perfect.


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## bcpnick

Eyedaho said:


> Is that a 156D that you're setting up by any chance? If so, I will call SnS and order that exact same rocket box sling. It looks perfect.


It's a 146DD. If you want the buckles to sit up top of the boxes like mine, tell Jan you want it just like she just did for Nick Woolley. I had to send mine back to get the buckles in the right spot but now they're perfect.


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## wfinley

Fly By Night said:


> Has anyone had luck using 1/2" ply? I have some really pretty veneered 1/2" laying around I was hoping to make some sideboards out of, my main reservation is the span over the captians bay, I'd thought about running some aluminium under there or glueing/ screwing a strip of plywood on end to add some strength.


The first seat I made was out of 1/2 marine plywood and I always felt like it was going to break when walking on it. Built my new seat/table out of 3/4 and have been much happier.
Side rails I made last summer are out of 3/4 marine plywood. I opted to attach using straps so as to make it break down easier. The only thing I'll add is to drill lots of holes to strap down stuff with otherwise you'll just end up drilling some after your first trip.
Pix of various things strapped to them are below.


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## cupido76

My seat is 3/4" pine + 1/4" ply, glued together and coated in 4 or 5 coats of varathane.

Super solid with no flex over an 18" span.

My next seat will probably just be 3/4" ply for simplicity, but the old seat is probably stronger and lighter.


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## MT4Runner

Good looking crew you have there, wfinley.

My girls are now 17.5 and 15.5...and it seems when we were boating with them at that age is a long time in the rearview mirror..yet only yesterday.


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## wfinley

MT4Runner said:


> Good looking crew you have there, wfinley.
> 
> My girls are now 17.5 and 15.5...and it seems when we were boating with them at that age is a long time in the rearview mirror..yet only yesterday.


Thanks. I can only claim one of them. Somehow having a little girl and raft means you end up rowing a pile of little girls while the parents row ahead of you as fast as possible.


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## elkhaven

wfinley said:


> Thanks. I can only claim one of them. Somehow having a little girl and raft means you end up rowing a pile of little girls while the parents row ahead of you as fast as possible.


Funny! It works that way for boys too! I'm often the "daycare" boat.... 4 or 5 kids playing and having a blast.... usually a loud blast....shrug....all in the name of fun.


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## MT4Runner

That's funny...took a bunch of my daughters' hockey team rafting this summer...I put one of the coaches in my big boat with the girls. The two in the front right (raft right) are mine.

I had my little 13' boat and the other coaches.


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## jonas_f

I hear y’all on the wood look. I made the same concept with marine grade plywood and finished it with a couple coats of homemade spar varnish with the last coat covering a fine light coat of fine grained sand and varnish. Looked beautiful.

As for the weight of the HDPE, yeah it’s heavier by 30% or about 30 pounds per deck. 

As promised here is the picture of the deck and the hardware to hold it on


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## cupido76

^^^ nice exact cotouts on your side decks, and very cool idea for attachment hardware!


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## seantana

bcpnick said:


> Eyedaho said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those are slide tracks for my bimini.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same setup, for one season. The slide rails seem so handy, until the lock bolt hogs out divots in the aluminum, and suddenly the damn things don't want to slide anymore. I switched to static positioning on my bimini mounts and like it way more now. YMMV of course.
Click to expand...


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## seantana

I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I still love my polymax rails. Lightweight, super easy to work with, zero maintenance, has a million tie down spots, good traction, feels good on bare feet, etc.


You do need to dual rail support it for wider spans, but my 200# ass can bounce on even the longest span on my boat with no concerns.


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## Detolvep

Just installed mine on my cat. Hard maple and applied 3 coats of WestSystem epoxy. Will likely need a good sanding before more coats but looks pretty resilient now. Used those nrs bolts and special grainger nuts.


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## bcpnick

seantana said:


> I had the same setup, for one season. The slide rails seem so handy, until the lock bolt hogs out divots in the aluminum, and suddenly the damn things don't want to slide anymore. I switched to static positioning on my bimini mounts and like it way more now. YMMV of course.


I had the slides on my last boat and never had any problems. I was convinced to do it by a friend who's had them for years with no issues. I'd actually prefer static mounts, the biggest reason I do it is so that I can get the bimini into the flattest position when stowed for rapids.


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## seantana

bcpnick said:


> I had the slides on my last boat and never had any problems. I was convinced to do it by a friend who's had them for years with no issues. I'd actually prefer static mounts, the biggest reason I do it is so that I can get the bimini into the flattest position when stowed for rapids.


It absolutely could have been the rails I used, or the 200# gorilla turning the screws, that caused mine to fail. I ended up setting my static mounts so that my Bimini folds forward and lands just forward of the top of my bow, and gets strapped to the front d ring for rapids. Quick to deploy/stow and doesn't interfere with my gear that I rig on my sideboards next to my drybox


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## delmarhotshot

bcpnick said:


> Almost done putting my new raft together. Put my new boards on today and got my customized rocket box sling from Stitches 'n Stuff earlier this week. I wasn't so sure about the padded divider, but I'm really liking it. Sliding the boxes in is easier than the old drop bag I used and you always place it right where it needs to be the first time thanks to that divider. The bottom is also padded with some ethofoam. I had Jan customize the straps that go over the boxes so they would rest on top of each box. There are D rings on each end for a loop strap to go over both boxes. I really like it.


Beautiful job! Say, what is the size of your front (passenger sitting) bay? Like the depth? Thanks!


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## Bootboy

seantana said:


> I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I still love my polymax rails. Lightweight, super easy to work with, zero maintenance, has a million tie down spots, good traction, feels good on bare feet, etc.
> 
> 
> You do need to dual rail support it for wider spans, but my 200# ass can bounce on even the longest span on my boat with no concerns.


How did you attach your poly max to your frame rails? I’m considering this route with my new frame.


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## seantana

Bootboy said:


> How did you attach your poly max to your frame rails? I’m considering this route with my new frame.


I used 3/4" webbing, just weaved it through the holes and around the rails. It'll be a giant pain in the ass to remove if I ever take them off, but it's seen a few years of abuse with no loosening up at all so I don't anticipate having to mess with it any time soon (I hope).


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## bcpnick

delmarhotshot said:


> Beautiful job! Say, what is the size of your front (passenger sitting) bay? Like the depth? Thanks!


Thanks! I believe the bay itself had about a 15 inch opening but with the cross bars and a healthy overhang, the board itself was closer to 20.


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## Pine

I used plywood, then had the plywood coated with Rhinoliner truck bed liner. NRS sells clamps you can buy for a few bucks, but they are not listed on the website, you need to call and ask.


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## craven_morhead

Marine plywood with spar urethane and vinyl boat decking.


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## Lasercat

Managed to snag a sheet of King Starboard HDPE via my local plastics dealer, so I made myself some custom walkways, and a couple little beer/phone "tables" covering what was an open hole before. Walkways are 8'x11", and I routed out the spots underneath where it go overs my frame fittings, so it all lays flush on top of the tubes. Pretty dang happy with the way it turned out!


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## blueotter

I WANT those!!!!
Beautiful...


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## jbLaramie

bcpnick said:


> I like to make my own out of finished birch plywood. I attach them with NRS U bolts and sex bolts to create a smooth finish on top and allow the crossbars between the back and front to still be moveable. I've done this for several years and on a couple of different boats and I'm about to do it on my new boat. I like how it looks and functions.
> 
> Lots of pics here: Aire 156R Package


Great setup! Where'd you get that drop bag the size for your ammo cans?


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## cupido76

jbLaramie said:


> Great setup! Where'd you get that drop bag the size for your ammo cans?


Stitchesnstuff and Cascade river gear (I think?) Make bags like that. I bought one from Stitchesnstuff and it's great.


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## jbLaramie

cupido76 said:


> Stitchesnstuff and Cascade river gear (I think?) Make bags like that. I bought one from Stitchesnstuff and it's great.


Thanks! -Guessing it was stitches and stuff as Cascade River Gear doesn’t have one like this. They have a Salmon River sling with the attachment points on the end, but I tried one last summer and it ripped when I put the ammo cans in the first time.


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