# Anyone have photos of HDPE or POLYMAX rigging of floors?



## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

I'm going to install floors on my Minimax and looking for ideas of how others have done it. Narrowed it down to HDPE or POLYMAX for the floor material for low maintenance.


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## Sherpa9543 (Jul 22, 2014)

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## Oc1paddler (Sep 6, 2005)

I'm not familiar with the Polymax but be careful with the HDPE in cold water. My friend had it on his boat and it worked fine for several trips. When we did the Alsek it snapped in half. It seemed like the prolonged exposer to ice water made it brittle?


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## Sembob (Feb 27, 2014)

Hope gets real soft in the heat also. I would recommend another route. Plywood is a good low maintenance and inexpensive way to go. 


Jim


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## Paul7 (Aug 14, 2012)

I'm real impressed with the paper coated plywood MDO or also referred to as signboard. 

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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Oc1paddler said:


> I'm not familiar with the Polymax but be careful with the HDPE in cold water. My friend had it on his boat and it worked fine for several trips. When we did the Alsek it snapped in half. It seemed like the prolonged exposer to ice water made it brittle?


Might have to reconsider HDPE. How long was the span and did he support it in the middle?


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## Oc1paddler (Sep 6, 2005)

I honestly don't remember how big the span was. I think it was about a 3'x3' piece supported all the way around the perimeter and with 1 bar down the middle. He had used it on both the Salt river and the Grand Canyon with no issues. It came as a complete surprise when it broke. It was on a Cataraft so we ended up temping it back together with cam straps to get him thru the trip.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

What kind of span are you looking at? We use polysaccharides for raft tube decking and rear gear Bay on our cats. It has a fair amount of flex, and it depends on what you expect out of it.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Roughly a 24X24 inch platforms for standing and casting


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

lhowemt said:


> What kind of span are you looking at? We use polysaccharides for raft tube decking and rear gear Bay on our cats.


Wtf kind of autocorrect typo is this, LOL!

2x2 will have a good amount of flex, depending on your weight. I am not a Fisher but would expect you might want a more stable platform. Can you add some cross bracing under it?


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

I could add Al angles to the Polymax. From the replies I'm starting to think 3/4 inch MDO or CDX. Owning a fishing rafting is new to me. When I read the term "decking" used I incorrectly assumed it was at the bottom of the raft and something you stand on.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

Losthwy said:


> When I read the term "decking" used I incorrectly assumed it was at the bottom of the raft and something you stand on.


Some people do use it for that, but osteoporosis go for something more rigid if you need to stand on it a lot.


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## seantana (Mar 5, 2015)

lhowemt said:


> Some people do use it for that, but osteoporosis go for something more rigid if you need to stand on it a lot.


You're knocking the typos out of the park lately!


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## Sembob (Feb 27, 2014)

3/4 ACX. No flex. 
5/8 ACX little flex. 
I would use 3/4. You won't save much weight with such a small piece by going thinner. Do use ACX though. It is better than CDX. 


Jim


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## bobbuilds (May 12, 2007)

Sembob said:


> 3/4 ACX. No flex.
> 5/8 ACX little flex.
> I would use 3/4. You won't save much weight with such a small piece by going thinner. Do use ACX though. It is better than CDX.
> 
> ...


For the non wood educated. Cdx 

C is quality of one face. Think a, b, c, d, etc... For knots splits and shit wood.

D makes up the middle

X is the other face. If you put x down to the floor side, seal it or not it will soak up water. And if you stand on x with anything but a work boot you will get splinters.

Home Depot sells all kinds of B and C ply woods in pre cut sheets 24x24 to 4x4

Etc... That are the same price as cdx and you don't have to take the whole sheet.

Consider that also, and I agree go 3/4 if you can.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

seantana said:


> You're knocking the typos out of the park lately!


Damn it! Fumble fingers after being on a Main salmon trip. Fumble brain too....


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

A 24 X 48 piece is all I need to make floors for the 10.5' raft. Is there an issue with a suspended floor using 1" buckle straps moving side to side and front to back?


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## Sembob (Feb 27, 2014)

As far as ACX Vs CDX goes. ACX has one side that has had blemishes filled with footballs and sanded. The X ensures it is assembled with weather resistant glue. The ACX has less blows or hollow spots within the field (seemingly). 
Your local lumber yard will sell all these products cheaper than Home Depot. And you won't need to put it in a shopping cart. Most have a panel saw and could cut a sheet in half if you need to fit it in your Subaru. You will own both halves though. 


Jim


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

bobbuilds said:


> For the non wood educated. Cdx
> 
> C is quality of one face. Think a, b, c, d, etc... For knots splits and shit wood.
> 
> ...


Sorry, this is not quite right. For CDX there is a C face and a D back with eXterior glue as Sembob said. ACX has an A face (clear of large knots, filled and sanded and a C back, large knots cut out and filled with footballs, filled and sanded. D face is no fill, knots commonly in place up to a certain number of knots per area.... There is AA grade, B grades, etc... it all depends on what folks are using if for. I tend to agree with the premis though, ACX typically seem to have fewer internal voids than does CDX. Another consideration between qualities is number of ply's. cheaper plywood may have less plys. the more plys the stiffer typically.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Correct on the meaning of X, it stands for "exposure". Made with water resistant glues.

MDO (HDO)
Demanding applications such as concrete forming, exterior siding, and industrial containers require tough building materials. APA trademarked High and Medium Density Overlay plywood (HDO and MDO) combine the toughness of Exterior-type plywood with the superior wear of an overlaid surface. These features place HDO and MDO among the most durable construction materials on the market today.

HDO and MDO feature highly durable, resin-impregnated fiber faces. The thermoset resin, bonded under heat and pressure, forms a very tough surface that easily resists abrasion, moisture penetration, chemicals, and deterioration. HDO is manufactured with more resin than MDO, but both are far more durable than standard plywood and are ideal for use in the most punishing of applications. Yet they retain plywood's advantages, such as high strength to weight ratio, dimensional stability, and rack resistance, as well as plywood's design flexibility.
Engineer Wood Association

From what I have read MDO has been used is boat building since the 60's though it wasn't called MDO.


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## Paul7 (Aug 14, 2012)

Stewart of Montana Boat has built over 100 drift boats out of MDO. He helped me decide to use it on my project. 

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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

I'll be picking up a sheet of 3/4 MDO tomorrow. Spar for the underside, Gorilla Tape for the edges and a spray can of truck bed liner for the wading boot side. Cutting cardboard templates for the curve of the tube today. Harder than I thought it would be (I'm radius challenged) I don't want to screw it up. MDO ain't cheap.


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## Paul7 (Aug 14, 2012)

Good luck post up some pics of the finished project. 

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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Losthwy said:


> I'll be picking up a sheet of 3/4 MDO tomorrow. Spar for the underside, Gorilla Tape for the edges and a spray can of truck bed liner for the wading boot side. Cutting cardboard templates for the curve of the tube today. Harder than I thought it would be (I'm radius challenged) I don't want to screw it up. MDO ain't cheap.


Sorry to be downer here, but I see a couple of issues. 

One, I would absolutely not use gorilla tape on the edges. You want a harder surface butting up to your tubes. With gorilla tape, it'll grab grit and act as sandpaper to your tubes. 

Two, if you are going to varnish the bottom, why not run it over the edges and up onto the top. tape off a buffer of maybe an inch or so from the edges and varnish the tops and sides all at once. Use one of those little small diameter rollers -it's easy as pie.

three - if your are going to spar the bottom (and maybe sides?) then why not spar the hole thing? Put 4 or 5 coats of varnish on top and sides, 2 or 3 on the bottom, then comeback and tape off the perimeter as described above. Put a heavy coat of varnish on the top, then sprinkle with grit and reroll. Mix in more grit if needed or dribble a little more varnish - you'll see what I mean when your doing it. 

I've not seen good long term results with the spray on liner... it usually chips and flakes off and in my experience having a good fine grit is better than a coarser texture. In either case, you'll end up tracking mud into the boat, the coarser the texture the harder it is to get the mud out. Mud means invasive potential. In my experience, finer grit is better anyways - in either case if it gets too thick just bring a bucket and wash off the floor occasionally. It doesn't seem like I do that any less with coarse gription on the floor. 

I guess in the end what I'm saying is keep it simple, varnish works great all the way around, it won't wear on your tubes on the corners and it'll be easier to clean and refinish down the road.

Good luck...

PM me if you'd like to chat, I've done this many times with numerous boats. KISS - keep it simple...


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Elk

Sounded like good a good idea. For the grit is play sand too fine?


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## Schutzie (Feb 5, 2013)

For the edges where they rub against the tubes we used to use old garden hose; split it length wise and fit to the edge. We never secured it but there should be a way to make it semi permanent. We just fought the thing on as we rigged; once in place it stayed. Pain in the backside otherwise, but very effective rub strake otherwise.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Losthwy said:


> Elk
> 
> Sounded like good a good idea. For the grit is play sand too fine?


Play sand works ok but varies a lot in size. My favorite is aluminum oxide powder, it's cheap, sold in the paint dept as grit and gives excellent grip. When you first get it, you'll think oh wow, no way this will work but it does. It's really fine, like finger than sugar but the end result is perfect grip and essentially invisible. I found it @ menards, FWIW. 

Fine ground walnut shells a close second of you can find it. 

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## Gremlin (Jun 24, 2010)

Just thought this thread could use a photo of Polymax actually used as a floor.







I love that I can run a strap around the frame and through any hole, waves crash right through, I can sit my strainer on the floor and pour dishwater through while sitting in my seat, and I can piss while continuing to row.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Gremlin said:


> Just thought this thread could use a photo of Polymax actually used as a floor.
> View attachment 12213
> 
> I love that I can run a strap around the frame and through any hole, waves crash right through, I can sit my strainer on the floor and pour dishwater through while sitting in my seat, *and I can piss while continuing to row*.


That is feature that comes in handy. Take note beer drinkers.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Finished the floors.
3/4 MDO
6 coats of urethane on bottom and 7 coats on top with last two coats mixed with Rust-Oleum EPOX Shield Anti-Skid Additive (very fine and uniform from Ace hardware) top is like sandpaper, except the edges.
Added recycled rubber mat for I wear studs on my wading boots. Photos taken with raft deflated and straps loose. Took a little adjustment but fairly stable now.
Thanks Elkhunt for your generous counsel.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

Finished the floors for the Hyside Minimax.
3/4 MDO
6 coats of urethane on bottom and 7 coats on top with last two coats mixed with Rust-Oleum EPOX Shield Anti-Skid Additive (very fine and uniform from Ace hardware) top is like sandpaper, except the edges.
Added recycled rubber mat for I wear studs on my wading boots.
Thanks Elkhunt for your generous counsel.


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## VandyIn541 (Jun 16, 2013)

I realize this is a little late, but here's some pics of my HDPE floor. Been in there for 3 or 4 years with no issues. 1/2" thickness, about 24"x40", roughed with sand paper and drilled for drainage. Held in with 1" straps. Cooler and dry box keeps it from sliding around.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

VandyIn541 said:


> I realize this is a little late, but here's some pics of my HDPE floor. Been in there for 3 or 4 years with no issues. 1/2" thickness, about 24"x40", roughed with sand paper and drilled for drainage. Held in with 1" straps. Cooler and dry box keeps it from sliding around.


I guessing it is not suspended. Any issues with abrasion?


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## VandyIn541 (Jun 16, 2013)

It's not suspended and I haven't noticed any abrasion along the edges or underneath. All edges were rounded and smoothed with sandpaper. So far so good.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

I had read one needs to suspend the floor off the bottom. But maybe it's not needed. That would be nice and make things easier to rig.


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## DriftaBit (Feb 4, 2015)

Suspension is great for a couple of reasons.

First the abrasion isn't necessarily from having sharp edges or corners, it's from the sand, gravel, silt, etc. that gets trapped between the floor of the boat and the hard floor. The rocking of the boat then rubs this back and forth eventually wearing a hole. This really depends on where you tend to boat the most and the conditions you face. Deserts and sand would obviously accentuate this problem. Not a matter of if it's wearing through, but when.

Second, on low water runs where floor pins are likely to happen, anything hard and sharp strapped down to the inflatable floor runs the very real potential of leading to a pinch flat. Again, this depends on where you're boating. If you're only paddling large volume wide/deep rivers then it may not become a problem, just be weary when you pull that late September Middle Fork permit.


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