# Motor Mount Question



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

It's only important if you like keeping the baffles intact on your boat... or want to push a flotilla. Transferring the thrust of your prop through your frame and on to other boats frame to frame (oarlock to oarlock on your sides and diagonal from corners of frames if you stack, wedges and diamonds are the most efficient shapes - always push, never drag...) is always the most efficient method, both for handling and speed. There's a reason almost all the old rubber motor mounts on old Avons and Campways/Rikens split - UV partially responsible, but also just not a good design for transferring that torquey power to the boat. Your transom doesn't need to be against your back tube, by the way - you can leave a little space there (inches, and the less the better) and it will help with turning if you're running a short(er) shaft where the powerhead is too low to clear your tube.
No comments on short shafts...


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## Duckins (Nov 7, 2008)

A 5-6 HP motor can produce a lot of force, enough to lift the bow of a loaded 15' boat. I'd be concerned running it only attached to a U on the stern of the boat. We have the stern frame/NRS motor mount on ours. Our motor pulls the whole frame backwards so we use extra straps to the bow d-rings to keep the frame in place.


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Hi, 

Here are two used on my boats over the years.

The triangular type strapped to the frame and rested on the rear tube. It is welded aluminum.

The other one bolted into the rear crossbar of the frame with NRS fittings. The plywood panels held a remote fuel tank and also sometimes were used to strap the motor down when not in use. It was made of galvanized tube I had bent in a muffler shop.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips


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## JFOinCO (Oct 9, 2017)

And what do you use for tiller/throttle extension? Or do you just sit on the stern? Thanks for the pics btw. I'd love to see a pic of the whole setup.


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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

This is a trip I took on Powell with my 14' NRS E140. Note the long extension, which I could get away with because on the lake there was little to no need to reach the motor head for long periods of time. On moving water, I sat on the tube adjacent to the motor and ran it directly.

Also, seems I was using a mount that I forgot to mention, which sort of followed the shape of the tubes after being strapped to the rear of the frame.

Hop this helps.

Rich


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## Bongo (Sep 10, 2014)

Here's what I cam up with (as long as the picture loads)


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## Bongo (Sep 10, 2014)

I'm on a mac - can I just drag stuff to this window? what's the best way to upload a picture? I did manage to start a mountain buzz album under misc. with the title motor mount but can't seem to get it on this thread---Bongo


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## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

Here is one that Tim with recretec just made for me. Its for a 6 hp long shaft


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## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




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## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




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## richp (Feb 27, 2005)

Here are two I made and have used. The one is galvanized pipe I had bent in a muffler shop, with NRS fittings to tie in to the rear crossbar of the raft.

The other one is something I rigged up for Alvin out of some old garage door tracks. It allowed the transom (on rollers) to slide up and be secured forward when not in use. It's the crude prototype of the motor mount BLM then had fabricated for their 16' Avon a while back before Alvin retired. May still be in use for all I know.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips


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## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




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## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

Well here is a pic of a quick tiller extension that articulates. Allows me to sit in the seat. Heading to lowed salmon tomorrow. I’ll refine it later. It’s what I had laying around in the shop.


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## craven_morhead (Feb 20, 2007)

This was our homebuild setup. Works well.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Inventive use of Hollander fittings for sure.


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