# Must Have Equip (Z-Drag, Flip Lines & Other Gear)?



## BenSlaughter (Jun 16, 2017)

I always carry an extra oarlock, or two, and almost always have two spare oars on my boat(and I've needed both).
I do have fliplines, but I think there's a good argument to be made for just carrying a big loop(or two) of tubular webbing.
I have a full z-drag setup, and it goes with me on every trip, but I've never been in a position to use it.
You absolutely should at very least carry a throw rope. The rest, I think it's worthwhile to just pick it up as your budget allows...

I forgot to mention patch kit.
I've been fortunate enough to not have to do a river-side repair, but I still take my patch kit along on every trip. I need to suppliment it with a couple big pieces of Tear-Aid.

Ben


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## cowboy907 (May 3, 2017)

flip lines-yes, no need for bilge pump unless its a bucket boat, spare oar locks-yes. as far as tools go, plan that anything that can break will and you will need the tool and or items to fix /replace. i.e. set screws will come out, bring allen wrench and set screws, raft will get a hole in it, bring patching material and glue, valve will leak, bring extra valve, NRS frame u bolt will become loose-bring socket set...Z drag is a really nice to have, if you are going somewhere where you could potentially need a Z drag you should be going with multiple people, most likely someone will have a z drag. It's a good item to purchase, however, personally i dont think its necessary for day trips and simple over nights such as ABC-I am sure folks will disagree.


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

The big item missing from your list is a groover setup. Z-drag can wait, especially if you aren't somewhere remote. Once you buy it practice a couple times in your yard. Yes to tools. I have an NRS frame so I carry a spare U-bolt. It took me a while before I started carrying spare oarlocks. I have one spare oar which is generally OK. Two is safer. Have a repair kit.

It's an expensive sport to get into.


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## Mtnbuzzer (Feb 5, 2016)

Don't forget the hand pump! The repair kit should have patching material, glue, extra floor and tube valves, and tools (roller, sandpaper, valve wrench, scissors, etc.) If you have an NRS frame a 1/2" wrench and extra u-bolt. A lot of this depends on your set-up. I started carrying extra oar locks not only my boat but others as well after my son snapped one in the Box,. Z-drags are expensive and the one time we had to use one, another person in our party had one. I finally put one together after someone gifted me with the pulleys, carbiners, and prusik ropes. Some kind of first aid is always nice too.


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## Treswright3 (May 20, 2013)

I dont think I saw throw bags anywhere, but get 1-2 throw bags. I only buy the high end ones because I had a rope snap on a cheap one. Get the "professional" series or whatever NRS calls it, a few locking carabiners, pullies and webbing and thats an entry Z-drag. You definitely need tools and oar locks. Patch kit, pump, ext. 

But thats just the start, for over nighters you will need a groover and fire pit at a minimum. Then there is hand washes, dish wash system, kitchen box or equipment, dish drier, coolers, then all the straps and bags to rig it all. Your going to want a paco pad, and table too. Once you get all that gear your gonna need a trailer to haul it all. Then you will realize that you need a bigger boat, when you get the big boat you will realize that you need a smaller boat too.... Welcome to rafting, there is simply a ton of gear to buy, the rubber wasn't even half your cost. I recommend just going with groups that own that gear and adding a couple of pieces a year until your set.


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## DanOrion (Jun 8, 2004)

Sort of obvious, but I think you should have two first aid kits: (a) minor in a drybag that goes along on every day trip and (b) major for overnights. Basically, I see first aid kits needing to include:
Minor: Stop the bleeding; splint; CPR mask; antihistamine (allergic reaction); asprin (heart attack); pain med; epi-pen; tweezers
Major: Everything in minor, but with more wound cleaning/dressing; antibiotics; eye wash

I have basically no medical training, so others may want to weigh in more.


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## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

Z-drag set up for sure. And always wear it, doesn't do any good if boat is wrapped on the rock with rescue kit strapped to the frame & you're in the water. In 25 years of paddling been fortunate to only need twice. The worst was a bucket boat wrapped on Main Salmon, took 3 z-drag's and 6 hours to get it off. With a quality pully.! The cheap ones can freeze up.
Flip lines, throw bag(s), extra rope, first aid kit, repair kit. Hemostates a nice plus. And may you never need to use any of it.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I'd argue that you should take a swiftwater rescue class before buying or attempting to use a z-drag kit.

And once you know what you need, you can piece one together for probably ~25% less than buying a kit.


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

kanoer2 said:


> Z-drag set up for sure. And always wear it


That can be a lot of weight dragging you down on a swim. I'd rather have it on the boat. Hopefully you can get to it. More ideal is to have two z-drag setups on different boats.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

jeffro said:


> That can be a lot of weight dragging you down on a swim. I'd rather have it on the boat. Hopefully you can get to it. More ideal is to have two z-drag setups on different boats.


I carry two biners and a couple prussiks. You can at least get a line on a boat and stabilize it. Get to the other z-drag kit to setup the z-drag.

And I agree. Even two biners is heavy. 4 biners and 2 pulleys is getting to be a bit much for swimming safely.


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## Norcalcoastie (Jan 4, 2019)

Throw bag (75’), a good pump, patch kit and the knowledge to use them all! The Skills & Knowledge of those items is almost free. Like you said, the gear lists are expensive. You’ll pick up the rest along the way. Do some searching through the forums and understand how to repair your raft. 

A bomber cheap groover is a 20mm “rocket box”. They meet most (every?) rivers requirements. If you don’t want to sit on the “rails” (thus “groover”), do your business in wag bags and throw them in the rocket box. 

have fun!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

A Z drag kit would be at the bottom of my list as a beginner. I'd start with the required stuff first. Firepan, groover, first aid kit, throw bag, extra oar, boat repair kit, and a really good boat pump. Look at the regulations for a permitted run like Desolation canyon and it will give you a pretty good idea of what they are after. 

The fire pan doesn't have to be a fancy commercial unit but eventually you'll want a really good one. Buy a really good groover so you aren't wearing it if "the shit hits the fan" so to speak. Something easy to clean is what I would look for. Put together a first aid kit you know how to use. A good book on the subject is a must and I'd be looking at a wilderness type book. Spend the money on a good throw bag. Some permitted rivers require two oars but most require one. Carlyle oars make great spares. Get an ammo can and put together a good repair kit for your boat and include some tear aide tape. Since your boat is made of PVC that is the type of tape and glue you will need. On the river I would try and tape it if possible and fix it when I get home. 

How's that for a starter list?


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## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

jeffro said:


> That can be a lot of weight dragging you down on a swim. I'd rather have it on the boat. Hopefully you can get to it. More ideal is to have two z-drag setups on different boats.


My "kit" has pully, 2 prussiks, and about 12ft of webbing, no biners. I've worn it on every outing for 25 yrs., and paddle tandem WWcanoe never found it to be an issue. Swimming kinda goes hand & hand, but wear high volume Extrasport PFD, and on any larger volume river use crotch straps which make a huge difference.


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

kanoer2 said:


> My "kit" has pully, 2 prussiks, and about 12ft of webbing, no biners. I've worn it on every outing for 25 yrs., and paddle tandem WWcanoe never found it to be an issue. Swimming kinda goes hand & hand, but wear high volume Extrasport PFD, and on any larger volume river use crotch straps which make a huge difference.


Sounds very reasonable. I'm not the strongest swimmer so I keep stuff off me.


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## k2andcannoli (Feb 28, 2012)

For little overnight trips...especially on easy water, I just usually take some kind of disposable cheap plastic container for the groover. I just throw it away as soon as I'm off the river...if people with babies can fill the trash with shit, why shouldn't I put a few poops in there too.

My repair kit is just a small drybag...one thing no one mentioned is carrying a small roll of steel wire. You can fix many frame and lock failures with it... I don't carry valves, but I have a wrench for rebuilding them and some duct tape if I can't fix the leak.


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## DidNotWinLottery (Mar 6, 2018)

I still have not graduated past throw bag. However I use the hell out of it. They just flat work for rescues and most stucks. They are also required by permits, for good reason, they just plain work. If you cant get it all, skip the Z drag for now and get a good throw bag and carabiners. Practice a bit with the the throw bag, tossing into current, finding out how to grab it in an emergency, tieing off, re-packing and a good location to quickly get it from...............


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

DidNotWinLottery said:


> I still have not graduated past throw bag. However I use the hell out of it. They just flat work for rescues and most stucks. They are also required by permits, for good reason, they just plain work. If you cant get it all, skip the Z drag for now and get a good throw bag and carabiners. Practice a bit with the the throw bag, tossing into current, finding out how to grab it in an emergency, tieing off, re-packing and a good location to quickly get it from...............


This is a good point. PRACTICE with your throw bag. Get the rope out of the bag semi-frequently so you know where it's going when you need it most.




Now toward the end of the summer with low flows and warmer water is a great time to swim a rapid or two and practice throwing a bag to a swimmer.

I started with a cheap bag, but if you ever get into pin situations and have to put a z-drag on your bag, you'll want a good Spectra or similar line that will handle 2-3x the forces of a straight pull.


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

There is nothing like the feeling of pulling on a rope as hard as you can...........and having it break. 😶


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## paulster (May 27, 2011)

I agree with nearly all the comments. I like to have at least 2 z drag kits on every trip (on different boats and easy to reach on an upside down or pinned boat). I've never understood the flip line thing - I've been around a lot of flipped boats and have always been able to right them with a couple of throw ropes. But a throw rope and a Z drag are useless if you don't learn how to use them and practice. I make a point of setting mine up and teaching someone else to use it once on every overnight trip I do. More fun than most beach games, IMO. Every tool on your boat, including your first aid kit, it is a total waste if you don't have the ability to set it up quickly and efficiently under pressure. 

If you do enough boating (and any outdoor activity) long enough, you will most likely need the skills you'll learn in a Wilderness First Responder - equivalent first aid class and a Swift Water Rescue class.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I like a short flip line for day tripping/paddle boating and reflipping while in midstream
Agree that a throw rope and more people pulling (or even a z-drag) is probably needed for a flipped multiday gear boat.


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## Joshoward (Sep 4, 2019)

caverdan said:


> A Z drag kit would be at the bottom of my list as a beginner. I'd start with the required stuff first. Firepan, groover, first aid kit, throw bag, extra oar, boat repair kit, and a really good boat pump. Look at the regulations for a permitted run like Desolation canyon and it will give you a pretty good idea of what they are after.
> 
> The fire pan doesn't have to be a fancy commercial unit but eventually you'll want a really good one. Buy a really good groover so you aren't wearing it if "the shit hits the fan" so to speak. Something easy to clean is what I would look for. Put together a first aid kit you know how to use. A good book on the subject is a must and I'd be looking at a wilderness type book. Spend the money on a good throw bag. Some permitted rivers require two oars but most require one. Carlyle oars make great spares. Get an ammo can and put together a good repair kit for your boat and include some tear aide tape. Since your boat is made of PVC that is the type of tape and glue you will need. On the river I would try and tape it if possible and fix it when I get home.
> 
> How's that for a starter list?


Super helpful and sensible.


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## Joshoward (Sep 4, 2019)

Great comments everyone. I really appreciate the help. To summarize (hope this helps someone else in the future), even on a day trip, everyone should be running with first aid kits, throw bags, extra oars, boat repair kit (w/ extra oarlock, valves, tearaid, U bolts, wire) and pump. Some webbing/guide belt for flip line highly is encouraged.


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## kayakfreakus (Mar 3, 2006)

Never go on the river with any sort of rope/Z drag/flip lines without a knife, maybe several of them.


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## almortal (Jun 22, 2014)

THIS



MT4Runner said:


> I'd argue that you should take a swiftwater rescue class before buying or attempting to use a z-drag kit.
> 
> And once you know what you need, you can piece one together for probably ~25% less than buying a kit.


And THIS



caverdan said:


> A Z drag kit would be at the bottom of my list as a beginner. I'd start with the required stuff first. Firepan, groover, first aid kit, throw bag, extra oar, boat repair kit, and a really good boat pump. Look at the regulations for a permitted run like Desolation canyon and it will give you a pretty good idea of what they are after.


Look at the regulations for a typical permitted river - none of them require a z-drag. The original poster seems to be new to this so a repair kit + first aid kit + throwbag is the basics to be prepared and safe. As you learn more and know what you need then get stuff.


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## kanoer2 (Mar 5, 2011)

Joshoward said:


> To summarize (hope this helps someone else in the future), even on a day trip, everyone should be running with first aid kits, throw bags, extra oars, boat repair kit (w/ extra oarlock, valves, tearaid, U bolts, wire) and pump. Some webbing/guide belt for flip line highly is encouraged.


Regarding extra oars: We did an August Middle Fork trip in 2007, raft, IK, OC2 & Oc1 flow was low maybe 1.8ft. Ran into another group (2 rafts & 1 IK) that one raft had broken their 3 oars by the time they hit Marble Creek (mile 31 of 96). The oars had been scabbed together with duc-tape and branches. Our group and theirs had launched at Boundary Creek. Moral of story is stuff happens.

But welcome to this wonderful sport-have fun!!!!


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## OregonianRG (Jun 14, 2010)

I carry a bow line and a stern line. Many time I have had to tie them together to find something solid to tie off to. I usually unload my boat butt first so a stern line helps for that. I carry a fire blanket if I use my firepan.


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## jerseyjeff (Apr 16, 2016)

I have kit on my person and in the boat, on my pfd I have 2 locking biners, 2 prussiks, one rabbit runner (they are awesome) 13mm Titan™ Anchor Slings / Rabbit Runners - BlueWater Ropes flip line, tie off, tow line, anchor point. a spyderco folding rescue(marine) or benchmade SH2O depending on pfd, and lip balm with a high spf. and sometimes snacks.
On the boat I have a Kpump, spare paddle or oars, and my SHTF bag (S hits the fan)... in the bag is a CAT torniquet, a 6 inch Israeli bandage (first aid kit in a shrink wrapped package) and a NRS paddler first aid kit. There is also a zdrag kit consisting of 2 more locking biners, 2 CMI rescue pullleys and webbing slings and 2 more prussiks. Also in the bag is a silky folding saw, and a small repair kit. The repair kit consists of a 1/2 inch deep socket that I drilled for a 3/16 allen key (one frame I run is NRS, one is rowframe with set screws) Tear aid a and B tape, gorilla tape, leatherman super tool, stainless wire, hose clamps, and an aire patch kit, spare valve, spare valve mushroom spring and stem. 
In the boat I also keep a throwbag, either a 5/16 spectra bag or NRS 3/8 spectra pro bag. It is a really good idea to flake out the throw bag after each trip and make sure it dries. If the rope gets moldy/mildew it can have a big impact on the ropes strength. Depending on the river, I will also carry a spare lock and mount on harder stuff. I probably should take it on all runs, but I often dont on familiar day runs, and that could one day bite me. 

It is important to spend some time tossing a throwbag on dryland and repacking it, and if you are carrying a rope you need a knife. and, pick one that does not rust. All your biners should be locking ones, some folks use auto lockers, some use classic threaded ones, pick ones that work, and give them a good freshwater rinse to clean them out so they do not get fouled with grit. 

and, 18 volt cordless blowers are the best ever to inflate rafts...


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## Flaco (Nov 18, 2014)

Pertaining to safety only...I just did a whitewater rescue technician class last weekend. Not much talk of a Z drag but we were encouraged to carry "The 3, 2, 1, 1"...Three locking carabiners, two flip lines, one throw bag, one pulley. None of this stuff is useful if one doesn't know how to use them so the class was likely the most important tool. We learned a bunch of different approaches to un pinning boats. I'd recommend taking a class before worrying about safety gear.


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## ayears (Jun 15, 2016)

A beefy repair kit is important in my opinion. Its not just to fix your raft but fix anything else. Tie wire, zip ties, Allen wrench set, crescent wrench, spare spit rings, duct tape, a good multi tool, flat head and Phillips screw drivers, pliers, a file for deburring set screw burrs or sharp edges on stuff, para cord, a couple spare carabiners( you can never have to many). Channelocks can be a real life saver if your glue is stuck shut. People may say it's heavy but its really on 10-15lbs more, and is negligible weight for any raft. On one trip or another all this stuff has come in handy for me and I am always happy knowing I can rig something up to fix anything.


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## villagelightsmith (Feb 17, 2016)

Treswright3 said:


> I dont think I saw throw bags anywhere, but get 1-2 throw bags. I only buy the high end ones because I had a rope snap on a cheap one. Get the "professional" series or whatever NRS calls it, a few locking carabiners, pullies and webbing and thats an entry Z-drag. You definitely need tools and oar locks. Patch kit, pump, ext.
> 
> But thats just the start, for over nighters you will need a groover and fire pit at a minimum. Then there is hand washes, dish wash system, kitchen box or equipment, dish drier, coolers, then all the straps and bags to rig it all. Your going to want a paco pad, and table too. Once you get all that gear your gonna need a trailer to haul it all. Then you will realize that you need a bigger boat, when you get the big boat you will realize that you need a smaller boat too.... Welcome to rafting, there is simply a ton of gear to buy, the rubber wasn't even half your cost. I recommend just going with groups that own that gear and adding a couple of pieces a year until your set.


Non-locking caribiners are best for river runners. Water "carries" sand/grit that gets into the lock mechanism and keeps them from moving. Lockers will often be set when ropes are under tension, then when tension is removed, locks are immovable until re-tensioned. And visa-v. Use non-lockers on the river and lockers for arborist work.


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## jerseyjeff (Apr 16, 2016)

Hmm not sure on the non-locking biner call, and I would prefer to always use lockers in any sort of rope system. 
I am primarily an eastern boater, and we have the luxury of mostly silt free water, (and really no multiday trips of merit) I always carry autolockers (petzl amd ball-lock), and had it indoctrinated into me at an early time in my career that lockers are the only way to go, because a non locker can clip you into a boat, line or other thing. 
I also had an old guide during training call out others that had all sorts of stuff festooned on their pfds slap me on the head and say.
"fish swim, does that look like a fish (pointing at all the gear) think like a fish. be like the fish, no dangly sh-- on your pfd. EVER" 

My biners are in pockets, prussiks and rabbit runner in pockets, and small folding knife tucked into the knife sleeve on the pfd, and whistle on a short weak tether. 
I did take the amds down the canyon, and then gave them a long freshwater rinse, and almost all of the grit is gone. 
I personally like knowing all of the biners in my boat are closed and locked. The video below made the rounds a few years ago and shows a guide unintentionally clipping in. Glad it worked out well....


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## MaverickUSC (Jun 24, 2014)

villagelightsmith said:


> Non-locking caribiners are best for river runners. Water "carries" sand/grit that gets into the lock mechanism and keeps them from moving. Lockers will often be set when ropes are under tension, then when tension is removed, locks are immovable until re-tensioned. And visa-v. Use non-lockers on the river and lockers for arborist work.


Absolutely not, most notably shown in the video above. Locking carabiners ONLY on the river. 

It has been mentioned, but not emphasized enough, that you need to know what you are doing. Most equipment becomes a hazard if you don't know what you are doing. For example, non-locking carabiners can kill you. So can un-locked locking 'biners. 

I got into the river industry by taking a 5 day guide school through Whitewater Voyages geared toward the private boater. It was an amazing class and I have fond memories of it 18 years later. They then plucked me from the crowd and offered commercial work, which came after weeks of more training. I will try to offer a school like this through AVA in May, but the future is unclear. They are out there, and I highly recommend taking one if you want to graduate to class III water safely. 

Continuing with gear:

First aid kit. But do you know first aid? I highly recommend at least a WFA class, they're 16 hours, if you're going to be taking people into the wilderness.

Throw bag. But have you ever thrown one? Do you know when to and when not to deploy one? 

Flip line on your person. The ones on boats in bags are a waste and can become entrapment hazards. Do you know how to un-flip a boat? Have you ever done it?

Wrap kit. I keep one in my PFD and another in my major med kit. 3 prussiks, 3 biners, 2 pulleys. All this equipment is an encumbrance if you don't know how to use it. 

Knife on your pfd in an accessible but safe spot. A whistle too. One blast means alert, 3 long blasts means SOS, aka the trip has changed in a bad way and I need immediate assistance. By the way, do you know river signals?

Perimeter line on your boat. But if this is loose, it too is a hazard.

Bow line at least. Know your knots. 

Spare paddle.

Pump.

Repair kit: This can simply be tear-aid for day trips. Make sure you have the right type. For expeditions you want a full blown repair kit, but do you know how to patch a boat?

When adding a frame:

Spare oar. Two for longer trips. If you're breaking and losing oars all the time, you're rowing water too difficult for your skill level. Learn how to feather your oars. Turn those oar rights around or throw them into the trash. 

Tools: I always have a multi-tool, and a scrench for NRS frames with the 1/2" nuts or a 3/16 allen for the DRE style frames. For longer trips, spare parts are a good idea. I bring a spare tower and lock, valve, and pressure release valve on multi-day trips. Spare U bolts/pins & clips.


That's my likely incomplete but off the top of my head things you should have and must know how to use if you have them. If you don't know how, spend time and money on learning rather than equipment.


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