# Oar preference



## Shadows (Jan 28, 2017)

13 foot NRS otter mostly used with the frame for fly fishing in shallow water during the fall. I'm looking for suggestions on Oars in regards to comparisons between inexpensive Carlisle and upper end or such as lightweight Sawyer's. Appreciate any feedback you give me / Shadows.


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## Soup76 (Aug 19, 2009)

Shadows said:


> 13 foot NRS otter mostly used with the frame for fly fishing in shallow water during the fall. I'm looking for suggestions on Oars in regards to comparisons between inexpensive Carlisle and upper end or such as lightweight Sawyer's. Appreciate any feedback you give me / Shadows.


If your just fishing class 1-2 then 9 foot Carlisle oars wold be a good fit.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

I used inexpensive Carlisles for many years, both on my rig, and on commercial rigs. They work just fine. They're cheap enough you don't really care about beating them up.

Several years ago I started using Cataracts commercially, and liked them a lot. They're more expensive, and need refinishing from time to time. Commercially that meant every season if you wanted to keep them in good shape, and every other if you were willing to let them go far before refinishing.

Recently I got composite Sawyers- not sure what letters- MGX? The stiff ones. They have rope wrap. I'm not super fond of them, but in fairness I haven't had a lot of time to dial everything in together. The rope wrap doesn't glide in the locks, and they seem heavy for a $500 pair of composite oars- especially in the blades. I'm not 100% convinced that I can't improve the performance a little with some geometry tinkering on the locks/towers, but the rope wrap definitely hinders.

If I were going to be rowing a 13' raft all day fishing, I'd go with some 8'6" Cataracts with plastic sleeves.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Soup76 said:


> If your just fishing class 1-2 then 9 foot Carlisle oars wold be a good fit.


I couldn't disagree with this more. A rower will take 2 or 3 times as many strokes rowing for fishing (assuming your fishing out of the boat) than on a WW run. The balance is a lot more noticeable and a lot more critical to reducing fatigue. Yes Carlisle will work, anything will work but in my opinion, oars are the place to spend money. The difference between an aire boat and a tributary is less important to me than is carlisle to composite, or wood.

I like sawyers, but it really doesn't matter. I think sawyers are balanced a little heavier, I agree they feel heavier in the hand, one reason why I add a little weight inside the handle. I'm not sure if it's the reason but sawyers are sized for 30" blades where carlisle and cataract use 27" blades (I think that's what they are, shorter anyways). My feeling is that makes the blades a little heavier and maybe the shafts a slightly heavier, not sure. I like the flex of the sawyers but most importantly I like that when the finish fails, they do not shed fiberglass, at least no where nearly as badly as catracts do. That's probably the difference maker for me.

I agree on sawyers rope wrap, it's very abrasive and takes a while to wear in. I have 3 pairs and the old two have not only smoother rope, but slightly thinner rope. My newer ones would barely work in Cobra locks. They work much better in superstrons. Try waxing the rope, that helps a lot. I just used yellow ski wax. That helped a lot too.

Plastic sleeves are not a bad call on a fishing rig. Or better yet the pro-lok system of locks and sleeves. I'd definitely go that route if I were starting over but I'm having a hard time switching two boats and cutting off 6 rope wraps...

Edit - I should add that I do like the dampening affect that I feel rope wraps give as well. It's not huge but they feel a little softer to me and are definitely quieter.


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## cataraftgirl (Jun 5, 2009)

I use counterbalanced, rope wrapped Cataract oars with Carlisle blades. No complaints. For a 13 foot raft I'd go 8.5-9 foot depending on your frame width, your rowing height, and your body size. I prefer longer oars, so I'd choose 9 footers myself.

Right now you can get 8.5 or 9 foot rope wrapped Cataract oar shafts on backcountry.com for $144.95/each which is a $30 savings over other places. If you want counterbalanced & rope wrap, they are $184.95/each on backcountry.com

I got my oars from backcountry.com and was glad to save some $$. Since backcountry.com has a distribution center where I live, I could order them online, and pick them up. I have used the plastic sleeves in the past with no problems.

Have fun with your raft!


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## wildh2onriver (Jul 21, 2009)

I just ordered a set of internally counterbalanced cataract oars with sleeves and convertible oar rights. Should save a lot of rowing fatigue on a 3/30 GC trip. My older 9.5 will be spares. And no, they do not oxidize and leave fiber glass splinters like the '90s version did.


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## Soup76 (Aug 19, 2009)

elkhaven said:


> I couldn't disagree with this more. A rower will take 2 or 3 times as many strokes rowing for fishing (assuming your fishing out of the boat) than on a WW run. The balance is a lot more noticeable and a lot more critical to reducing fatigue. Yes Carlisle will work, anything will work but in my opinion, oars are the place to spend money. The difference between an aire boat and a tributary is less important to me than is carlisle to composite, or wood.
> 
> I like sawyers, but it really doesn't matter. I think sawyers are balanced a little heavier, I agree they feel heavier in the hand, one reason why I add a little weight inside the handle. I'm not sure if it's the reason but sawyers are sized for 30" blades where carlisle and cataract use 27" blades (I think that's what they are, shorter anyways). My feeling is that makes the blades a little heavier and maybe the shafts a slightly heavier, not sure. I like the flex of the sawyers but most importantly I like that when the finish fails, they do not shed fiberglass, at least no where nearly as badly as catracts do. That's probably the difference maker for me.
> 
> ...


Jesus Christ. The person asked for opinions on oars. I gave mine. I own Carlisle and Cataract oars. Have rowed Sawyers several times. Not my favorite. To each there own. 

As for strokes.... it's all in the the person rowing their craft. Perhaps I just should have said "9 footers" and left it at that.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Soup76 said:


> Jesus Christ. The person asked for opinions on oars. I gave mine. I own Carlisle and Cataract oars. Have rowed Sawyers several times. Not my favorite. To each there own.
> 
> As for strokes.... it's all in the the person rowing their craft. Perhaps I just should have said "9 footers" and left it at that.


I get it, I didn't call you a loser. I also gave my opinion, which obviously differs from yours. My issue was "if all you're going to do is fish" than Carlisle are fine. I DON'T AGREE, as I said, rowing for fishing is much more active than rowing ww. That's it.

I'd guess if you ration your strokes with your fishing buddies, you're not a hot commodity in the boat...

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## Soup76 (Aug 19, 2009)

elkhaven said:


> I get it, I didn't call you a loser. I also gave my opinion, which obviously differs from yours. My issue was "if all you're going to do is fish" than Carlisle are fine. I DON'T AGREE, as I said, rowing for fishing is much more active than rowing ww. That's it.
> 
> I'd guess if you ration your strokes with your fishing buddies, you're not a hot commodity in the boat...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


We agree to disagree. If you find the right eddy you don't have to row half of those strokes.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

As long as that eddy is within casting distance of the fish... otherwise it's just a break for the rower. Don't bother looking me up next time you're in the bozone.

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## SpeyCatr (Aug 14, 2013)

A good oarsman is very important to the success of the anglers on a raft or drift boat. There are also some specific rowing and holding techniques an oarsman on a boat will utilize to keep the anglers in areas where the fish are. A lot more strokes are required to do this. What's some extra money for some quality oars when you consider the cost of most fly rods, reels, etc. On board. 


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

elkhaven said:


> I agree on sawyers rope wrap, it's very abrasive and takes a while to wear in. I have 3 pairs and the old two have not only smoother rope, but slightly thinner rope. My newer ones would barely work in Cobra locks. They work much better in superstrons. Try waxing the rope, that helps a lot. I just used yellow ski wax. That helped a lot too.


I've never used cobras, but some people have recommended them for their vertical range of motion to mitigate the problems I'm having with them. I've been using them in Superstons, and I think I've got the locks about as wide open as they can be and still hold onto the oars.

I've considered the following to improve the performance with my Sawyer oars:
-Tweaking the geometry of the frame/towers, though I think I'm close to optimal.
-Swapping the Superstons for Cobra oarlocks.
-Removing the rope wrap and replacing with leather wraps and stops, or maybe a plastic one, though that's not my first choice.
-Selling the Sawyers and switching back to either Cataracts (that I know I like) or wood oars.

I will try waxing cause it can't hurt, but I'm not sure it's just a matter of smoothness/slickness. Any other ideas/suggestions/comments on my options?


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## jamesthomas (Sep 12, 2010)

My current set up is 9.5 cataracts with dynalite blades. Love em. The dynalite blades are really light and what I really like is the way they enter and leave the water. Really quiet. People that haven't rowed a lot for fishermen dont get just how much work it is. Constant adjustments for angle, distance to the seam, speed etc. The guy on the sticks is fishing just as much as the guy with the rod. A good oarsman is the difference between a 20+ fish day and a 10- fish day in my opinion. I totally agree with elkhaven the rope wrap is the way to go. Smoother and quieter. I have never used or even touched a set of prolocks but from what I can tell they are the coolest thing out there. Like a u-joint for your oars. I just wish there was a similar product that would work with rope wrap/oar rites.


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

I use straight parafin wax, that you get in the canning section of the grocery store, on all my rope wraps. It's super cheap and makes a huge difference. 

I use and recomend the sawyer composit and Smoker Whitewater blades although the lam-fir blades are good as well and a bit lighter. 

Carlisle's work and are great spares if that's what you can afford. I just don't like their blades as the shank is weak causing them to bend easily. The blades also have a spot where an oar leash gets caught on when you ship your oar by pulling it in through the lock. There is an easy fix for that. You just wrap duck tape around the neck of the blade to smooth out the lip, but I HATE using duck tape on my gear. 

If you post or contact me with the distance between the oar locks and the seat height I can make a more accurate length, 8.5 to 9' sounds right to me. 

Keep the snow coming!!!


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

climbdenali said:


> I've never used cobras, but some people have recommended them for their vertical range of motion to mitigate the problems I'm having with them. I've been using them in Superstons, and I think I've got the locks about as wide open as they can be and still hold onto the oars.
> 
> I've considered the following to improve the performance with my Sawyer oars:
> -Tweaking the geometry of the frame/towers, though I think I'm close to optimal.
> ...


I forgot to meantion that I also have the 1 3/4" ID shafts, so they are wider yet. My fix is to go back to superstrons... I get an elbow problem when I row my newer oars in cobra's. The older oars are fine; the issue is the new ones are my 10'ers, the old ones are 9' - too short. I've measured the new vs old both within the wrap and just on the shaft and the new oars are a couple hundredths bigger at the shaft and almost 1/4" at the wrap. It leaves very little wiggle room between the rope and the shoulders of the cobra's. So as not to blame sawyer, they were blems I got for $100 a shaft, maybe that was the blem.

I do love the range of motion in the cobra's, I just can't handle the amount of effort it takes to feather and it's ingrained in my rowing, so I get tendonitous in my elbow after a while. I currently have them on my little boat with my 15 year old sawyers and they work perfectly. At this point I'm hoping that the superstrons accelerate the wear in (smaller contact area??) and I can go back to cobra's down the road. I ran the supers all year last year, so I might switch back this spring for a few day floats and see if things have improved.

I too love my dynelites. Great give on rocks and durable as hell...

Pro loks have a built in oar right if you like that sort of thing. It's much smaller than actual oar rights but still effective I hear. I do wish they'd adapt one to work with rope wrap... but in their defense that would go agains the majority of their sales pitch - super smooth operation.


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