# Motor Rigs - What spare parts do you carry?



## NativeDiver (Jun 7, 2017)

Use whatever works- 

Keep in mind:
1. It will need a LONG shaft
2. Once you have one that works everyone will want to use it
3. Props and rivers are not friends and never will be. Sheer pins by the bag and a spare prop are a must.
4. Gas jugs seems to always leak when they are 110 degrees- so keep that in mind.


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

Spare props
Prop nut assembly
Shear pin assembly if applicable
Wrench for prop nut
Water pump/impeller
Fuel filter
Water separator
Spark plugs
Lower unit for the bigger motors
Primer bulb if applicable
Fire ext
Something to quick patch a fuel cell to prevent spills
Multiple fuel vessels
Know how to work on your junk
Lanyard in case motor falls off
Tiller extension
Hose clamps
Fuel hose
Fuel line fittings
2 smoke oil
Power tilt set up, if applicable
Starter, if applicable
Fuses
Pliers
Channel lock pliers
HF socket set
Ratcheting wrenches
Screwdrivers
Whiskey
Xanax

Research internets for weak points of your motor and carry all that. For example, some throttle &/or shift cables are weak, some fuel injected motors like to eat ECM's if ran for long periods in really hot direct sun, etc.


----------



## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

Since mine is only used on flat water like Cataract and below Diamond Creek on Grand Canyon and isn't the only means of propulsion I just carry a spare prop, spark plugs, extra oil, starter cord and tools to change the prop and service the motor. My motor doesn't use shear pins. I really can't see myself changing the impeller in the field, I have done it at home and in my opinion it is pretty much a bench job. If I didn't have oars I would carry an impeller. I am proactive and do service the lower end every year at home. 
Consider propane fueled when you are looking at motors, I have a 5hp Tohatsu Sail Pro propane and really like it. Small hp gas outboards tend to have fuel delivery problems when not used often, as seems to be the case with most raft motors.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

If you can (available within reasonable driving distance), run ethanol-free gas. This makes the most difference on new motor or if you change carb, but it helps even with motors that have been run w/ethanol. Keeps rubber parts (o-rings, etc.) lubricated and minimizes varnish problems. 

On kickers (sub-10 hp outboards) carb problems are most common because of occasional use... so run your motor out of gas when you store it (some makes have a drain on the bowl, like my "old" '98 5 hp Honda that is just getting broken in...). Pull the plug, examine it (too rich? too lean? - most are just right, light grey, no damage or buildup on electrode), few drops/squirts of oil on top of piston. Oil is cheap - change it often (engine and lower unit).

Propane eliminates (virtually, nothing is 100% reliable) carb problems. But if you run in sub-freezing conditions you may have other pro'lems... not likely on lake runouts (Cat, Grand, etc.) during "reasonable" weather. 

The Achilles heel of all kickers - propane and gas - is the drive shaft. The term "pencil dick" applies... on anything 5-6 hp or less, your drive shaft is approximately the diameter of a pencil... Dinging a prop is a warning - learn to read the flat water and find the deepest channel (both the Colorado and Green good for this, usually sandy bottoms...). An inch or two matters... If you plow into sand/mud at 5-8 mph you run the risk of damaging your drive shaft. Hit the same shit at idle or just underway and likely you will just stir the bottom and come to a halt. Learn when it's safe to get going and when you should just barely be moving.
Bend your (drive) shaft and you are out of business... 

If you don't know what spares to bring you probably need more time with someone who does...


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

all that's been listed, plus a spare motor, and spare lower end...


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Located in SLC so this would mostly be to push thru the flats on Green and Colorado with oars as main power thru the rapids.

88 ethanol free available at most Mavericks.

LPG would be rad but seems harder to find used.

I have a buddy in Moab with a garage full of J Rigs, snouts, sport boats, and Tohatsus and nearly fifty years experience running ‘em. We’re working on getting a trip together but his schedule only seems to have last minute availability.

I just bought my first raft this summer after spending some years paddle raft guiding back East. Trying to piece it together on a ski bum budget. Both my parents retired this year so I’d like to get them on multi day western river trips. Expediting would likely help.

Lots of good info in this thread already. Thanks. I’ve got a lot to learn.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Since you mentioned LPG motors, I'd interject a few things, quieter, you don't have to smell gas all the way down the river, lighter, you don't have to smell gas all the way down the river, longer shafts available than gas, my Tohatsu Sail Pro has a 25 inch shaft which is the perfect length for the ass end of a raft, did I mention that you don't have to smell gas all the way down the river ? My only comment on brands would be the offering from LEHR is junk, and they cost near what a Tohatsu does. Check Ebay, I have 2 friends that found them there for way less than what they cost new. also check the sailboating forums, cause this was their initially intended use.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Does an LPG outboard run on the same fuel as I would burn for my camp stove and blaster? If not, same style container?


----------



## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

Yes standard tank. Search for discussion on Mt Buzz. Lots of information.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Same fuel as your stove. That's rad and definitely another point for propane.
What do you use to monitor fuel usage on a propane tank?

MNichols and other Tohatsu/Mercury LPG users - Is the Thrust Holder/Propeller hardware kit (61) what replaces a shear pin?

Parts Catalog


















Any of y'all dig your shit into sandbar? How bad was the damage?

Updated list for LPG motors. What did I miss?

Know how to work on your junk
Know how to read shallow water
Lanyard in case motor falls off
Pull Start Rope
Throttle cable
Fire extinguisher
Multiple fuel vessels
Spare props
Wrench for prop nut
Prop hardware kit
Tiller extension
Spark plugs & Wrench
Regulator
Engine Oil
Water pump kit
Drive Shaft
Lower unit
Fuses
Channel lock pliers
Needle nose pliers
Socket set
Ratcheting wrenches
Screwdrivers
Whiskey
Xanax


----------



## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

I run a prop guard. Get one and it will cut down on prop damage. You don't need any parts other than a prop. A couple of cotter pins come with the motor get a couple more. It's a clutch that just absorbes shock. I disable the reverse lock out so the motor kicks up if I hit something. You learn just to throttle down quickly when you hit something. I can push out 6 or 7 boats 40 miles on 5 gal of propane below Seperation Canyon on the Grand. That list you have will be heavier than the motor. Worst case you go to plan B and row or drift. Get a service manual.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Great information, thanks.

I'll ditch the spare lower and regulator, but I'm not giving up my whiskey or Xanax.


----------



## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

A Bible, quart of Holly Water and Prayer Beads, that should keep the Linda Blair demons out of your outboard motor and from puking out green slime. Plus some of the other parts listed above and a spair motor.


----------



## riversoul (May 12, 2005)

prop guard for sure ..I run a 10 horse tohatsu fuel injected ,prop guard from clackacraft and definitely run with the tilt lock open


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Tear that tilt lock off before you hang anything off your transom - responsible for more trashed props and worse than any other cause. Just lean out over your powerhead if you need to keep prop down for backing- watch your balance...


----------



## catwoman (Jun 22, 2009)

This is timely! If you search posts on LPG motors you will find met asking about them. Well I we finally bought a Tohatsu Sail Pro With an extra long shaft for Christmas. We are total motor neophytes and the learning curve is going to be steep. Paying attention to this thread!


----------



## MotorMan27 (May 9, 2014)

I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach


----------



## blazer (May 7, 2014)

Was on a Cataract trip this fall where the group relied on one motor amongst 5 boats. The motor ran (had worked fine on the prior trip of course) and would start up so we had no reason to be concerned after launching at Potash....after about a mile the engine was overheating every 5 mins. The group had a PDF of the engine manual (mostly useless), some engine repair experienced minds, and plenty of beer. Spent a day drifting while doing a complete disassemble on the raft. Turned out the impeller had all but dissintegrated and thus the engine wasn't circulating water to cool its self. So I'd add a "spare impeller" to the list above of parts to have on hand. That said with the right combination of repair kits one can be fashioned from an empty beer can, gorilla tape, and boat glue, and one sacrificed layover day...


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

blazer said:


> That said with the right combination of repair kits one can be fashioned from an empty beer can, gorilla tape, and boat glue, and one sacrificed layover day...


Impressive!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Cons of two-strokes being they're not allowed on the Grand. Does anyone know if that is the only place they're banned around the desert west?



MotorMan27 said:


> I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach


----------



## peernisse (Jun 1, 2011)

tBatt said:


> I'm not a motor boater yet but I've been looking into it. Most searches have lead to Pornhub instead of here so I though I'd ask the collective - What spares do you carry? I likely don't see one in the near future but a ~6hp four stoke seems like a good addition down the road. Prop, spark plugs, shear pin, what else?





tBatt said:


> I'm not a motor boater yet but I've been looking into it. Most searches have lead to Pornhub instead of here so I though I'd ask the collective - What spares do you carry? I likely don't see one in the near future but a ~6hp four stoke seems like a good addition down the road. Prop, spark plugs, shear pin, what else?





tBatt said:


> I'm not a motor boater yet but I've been looking into it. Most searches have lead to Pornhub instead of here so I though I'd ask the collective - What spares do you carry? I likely don't see one in the near future but a ~6hp four stoke seems like a good addition down the road. Prop, spark plugs, shear pin, what else?


maybe spare fuel bulb pump and tubing/fittings? Sounds like a good set up you are building!


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

On a lake run out from Cat almost 40 years ago - when the lake was full clear past Ten Cent and it was 32 miles of pure flatwater to Hite - "someone" forgot the gas hose for (I think it was) 7.5 hp Merc "Red Dot"... we didn't have anything like a hose, or tubing, or anyway to connect the tank to the carb - but we did have an eyedropper in repair kit and a funnel in the kitchen... fortunately there was no wind, and the 5 boats we had barged also had plenty of beer. So we all took turns, and some were better than others, but you can run a motor with an eyedropper and a funnel and a little duct tape - and BEER!


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MotorMan27 said:


> I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach


Well, 2 strokes aren't allowed on a lot of rivers. If you carry pig mats, you can avoid contaminating the surrounding area. They have ones that only soak up oil, so you can put it in the water and it won't absorb water, just oil. As for storing, they have to be laid tiller side down, been this way with all the 4 strokes I've seen. Not an onerous thing, and the tiller actually stabilizes the case from rocking, making securing it in place a lot easier.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

BGillespie said:


> Impressive!


Sheer Genius.. Way to go with the McGuyvering !!


----------



## Swatdot (Jun 19, 2012)

Piranha Prop with spare blades, those things are great. I've run a thousand miles on a motor rig, Piranha props and a good prop guard are the way to go.


----------



## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

Based on the last three trips using the same motor, I say take a spare motor. Each time we got about 15-20 miles then it just quit. 

We disassembled the engine as far as pulling the fly wheel and testing points and spark. Never thought to check the impeller.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

GeoRon, curious, what size motor are you running? 2 or 4 stroke? on a big rig as primary method of power or used to push in/out of the flats?


----------



## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

I think it is a 2.5 evenrude 2 stroke.

It is a friends motor originally nicknamed affectionately dragon slayer. Affections have ended. It is now nicknamed bug slayer. Soon we will nickname it POS but getting the first 20 miles on deso or cat done under motor is better than rowing.

I used to have brand new 5 and 25 hp hondas but I don't go to Baja anymore so I sold them. Bummer.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Swatdot said:


> Piranha Prop with spare blades, those things are great. I've run a thousand miles on a motor rig, Piranha props and a good prop guard are the way to go.


Never heard of those props, so went and checked them out. Neat idea, have you ever hit anything with them? I'm guessing so with 1000 miles, ever damage a lower unit? How bad do the props get damaged compared to an aluminum prop ?


----------



## Outnside (Apr 10, 2020)

blazer said:


> Was on a Cataract trip this fall where the group relied on one motor amongst 5 boats. The motor ran (had worked fine on the prior trip of course) and would start up so we had no reason to be concerned after launching at Potash....after about a mile the engine was overheating every 5 mins. The group had a PDF of the engine manual (mostly useless), some engine repair experienced minds, and plenty of beer. Spent a day drifting while doing a complete disassemble on the raft. Turned out the impeller had all but dissintegrated and thus the engine wasn't circulating water to cool its self. So I'd add a "spare impeller" to the list above of parts to have on hand. That said with the right combination of repair kits one can be fashioned from an empty beer can, gorilla tape, and boat glue, and one sacrificed layover day...
> View attachment 61849
> View attachment 61851
> View attachment 61850
> ...





MotorMan27 said:


> I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach





MotorMan27 said:


> I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach





MotorMan27 said:


> I would steer away from 4-strokes. The pros are they're much quieter and use a lot less fuel. The cons are they weigh 50% more but most importantly they are very fickle as to how they are stored on your boat. If you store them incorrectly the oil from the crank case fills the cylinder(s). Fixable on the riv but difficult to accomplish without contaminating the water or beach


Sorry to say...but the 50% more in weight is a bit off, even for the oldies. Depending on the year and manufacture, some weight a little bit more than others. A newer Tohatsu 10hp 4-Stroke weighs approximately 5 pounds more than the 2 stroke. And in regards to the oil and storage, store it correctly and keep the boat upright. If you’re running with a chance of flipping, remove the oil before trip, tag/label the motor “NO OIL”, and then add oil before use and that pretty much guarantees you won’t flip!😆 Don’t get me wrong, I have loved running 2-strokes as well, but 4-strokes aren’t that difficult to manage and most likely will be mandatory on all or most of our governed waterways in the future.🤷‍♂️👊


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

What Outnside said. The trend is towards mandating 4 strokes even 'though some 2 stroke (mostly injected) makes are as clean or cleaner (emissions). If you're handy, you can also pull the plug on a 4 stroke kicker, put the piston at TDC, and your ring(s) should keep oil from going anywhere it shouldn't... (You can't do this on multi-cylinder designs).


----------



## Outnside (Apr 10, 2020)

B4otter said:


> What Outnside said. The trend is towards mandating 4 strokes even 'though some 2 stroke (mostly injected) makes are as clean or cleaner (emissions). If you're handy, you can also pull the plug on a 4 stroke kicker, put the piston at TDC, and your ring(s) should keep oil from going anywhere it shouldn't... (You can't do this on multi-cylinder designs).


Yup, it’s a bummer too. The governing agencies do recognize the more modern 2-strokes meeting the EPA emission requirements. But of course the GCNPS for example has in the commercial regs that it’s okay to use modern approved 2-strokes and in the private regs it states 4-stroke only. I went through all this making the decision for my engine purchase on my sportboat and I was told by NPS officials, it’s up to the rangers discretion. Which I thought were big dice to roll at Lee’s. Which that’s a good example of how the regs for other agencies could trend and when the new GC private regs are completed, it could be different.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Found this in my searches. I believe it’s the long shaft - Data plate says F9.9ML. Good deal but I think a 9.9 is too much for me to haul.


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

tBatt said:


> Found this in my searches. I believe it’s the long shaft - Data plate says F9.9ML. Good deal but I think a 9.9 is too much for me to haul.
> View attachment 61930


~100 lbs.


----------



## Outnside (Apr 10, 2020)

tBatt said:


> Found this in my searches. I believe it’s the long shaft - Data plate says F9.9ML. Good deal but I think a 9.9 is too much for me to haul.
> View attachment 61930


4-Stroke Mercs are a bit bulkier than most, good runners though...


----------



## yardsells (Jul 14, 2014)

My spare parts for my little boat motor (5 hp) tohatsu 2 stroke:
Pull cord, fuel connector, extra 2 stroke oil, spark plug, water pump housing, impeller and impeller key, spare castle nut, thrust washer and split pin, prop, oil absorbent mats and a guitar string.

I am anal about regular off season maintenance and winterizing. I rebuild carbs, water pumps, and lower units so I'm pretty familiar with my setups. I don't like surprises. 

My big boat spares box is huge including additional identical motor and extra lower unit.

I'm in the process of building out a new sport rig. I can't carry an extra identical motor but I will be carrying a tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke for my spare motor. 









Photo courtesy tanderson.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

BGillespie said:


> ~100 lbs.


That’s what I meant by too much. Data plate says 87lbs dry. I’d like to be able to feasibly haul it myself.



yardsells said:


> My spare parts for my little boat motor (5 hp) tohatsu 2 stroke:
> Pull cord, fuel connector, extra 2 stroke oil, spark plug, water pump housing, impeller and impeller key, spare castle nut, thrust washer and split pin, prop, oil absorbent mats and a guitar string.


Nice kit. What’s with the guitar string? Throttle cable?


----------



## yardsells (Jul 14, 2014)

Clear out the tell tale if and when it gets clogged.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Olden times we used to use pipe cleaners, but on little motors might be too fat... I carry the wire kit you buy at HD for like $3.99 to clean torch tips. Has 6 or 8 different size wires, one will fit for sure!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

yardsells said:


> Clear out the tell tale if and when it gets clogged.


Genius. Skinny end first, pull the bead thru to clear the rest?

does $850 for a 5 hp 4 stoke gas seem reasonable? high, low, on point?

$100/hp four stroke seems to be on brand. Maybe $125/hp for smaller & newer.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

double post, deleted.


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

Prices all depend on use and age, and range from a few hundred to $1500.


----------



## yardsells (Jul 14, 2014)

tBatt said:


> Skinny end first, pull the bead thru to clear the rest?
> 
> does $850 for a 5 hp 4 stoke gas seem reasonable? high, low, on point?
> 
> $100/hp four stroke seems to be on brand. Maybe $125/hp for smaller & newer.


Not quite pulling the bead through but definitely snaking it into the cooling system to knock loose whatever is blocking the port.

$850 for a 5hp 4 stroke isnt bad depending on year and condition.
I think getting anything in good shape younger than 15 years old under a grand is a good deal.
Avg in Colorado for 4 - 6 hp (4stroke) is about $900-$1500 obviously depending on age and condition.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Shouldn't be an issue in Colorado, but worth asking in any event if the motor has been run in salt water... entirely different kettle of fish if it has, and may involve new impeller/water pump, water lines, etc. Just easier to stick to a small engine that hasn't been in marine environment, and plenty out there. You want that little Honda or ? that's been used on a jon boat for trolling, run by the (old) guy whose garage has pegboard with the outlines of tools sprayed on and where you can eat off the floor...


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Well, y’all are bad influences on my bank account. Jokes, I know I did it to myself.
Picked up an ‘03 5 hp 4 stoke long shaft Honda today. $700 and lots of time on i80. Time to start planning a stern mount frame/transom. And building a maintenance kit. And tearing it down so I know how to rebuild it. Man, it’s gotta snow.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

That's a decent deal! I have a '98 I bought in 2004, has pushed many flotillas out of Cat and the Grand and never a problem. Just put third carb on it (buy a spare, keep it rebuilt "just in case"). Impeller is easy to get to (relatively). 

One thing I did about 7-8 years ago is get rid of the Honda (proprietary) fuel hookup. Couldn't find my spare gas hose after a move and when I went to build another the fitting to connect to the one on the motor was like $70. Best marine mechanic I know suggested just stripping that out and going to quick connects - which I did and have never regretted. Honda parts are expensive and hard to get - there is no real dealer in Salt Lake, closest used to be in Grand Junction - so you will soon find your motor's diagram on iboat or other websites and start accumulating spares. Have to say while I carry a pretty good assortment in repair kit on the river, have never had to do anything more than replace shear pins and file prop after close encounters with sand bars.

The motor cutout switch is easily short-circuited with a small size cable tie - instead of the $10 red plastic keeper Honda wants... do it right and you can even duct tape the free end to a piece of cord and attach to your life jacket if you're paranoid. That way it works as intended. Or make your own spacer. Just an ex. of working around Honda's gangster prices! Have fun with that motor, keep both oils changed and run it about half throttle - you will soon find yourself looking for excuses to use it!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Good info B4, thanks. 
Do you know if a high thrust prop is available for a spare? a quick google search is showing they're only available for the 8HP and up.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

I've looked, and never found one. It's a real torquey little guy, you really don't need one although would be nice to see how low you can go on rpm and still push 5-6 mph!


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Also mine just sips gas... I used to carry 5 gallons for Mineral down Cat trips, after several trips pushing 3-6 boats I now carry just the Honda running tank (which I think is 3 gallons?) and still have couple quarts left @ North Wash. That's using it intermittently above the Confluence and at least Gypsum to North Wash always.

Once you get it dialed in and find sweet spot, thing ALMOST runs itself. It is a little more trouble than propane (dealing w/gas, etc. ) but way more gutsy (torque). At 62 pounds, it's as heavy as I want to handle by myself... And disable reverse lockdown first thing!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

When I asked what services had been done and she said “we just went through it!”


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

tBatt said:


> When I asked what services had been done and she said “we just went through it!”


Only drove it to church on Sundays...


----------



## NoCo (Jul 21, 2009)

Reading thru this thread i found a lot of people in favor of lp motors. I couldnt agree more, but as someone who repairs lp fuel systems for a living i must point out that the engines may not be fuel compatable with your stove. There are 3 gradrs of lp. HD5 HD50 and commercial. Commercial has no standards and is mostly used for cooking. HD50 is mostly used for cooking and heating. HD5 is the standard used for lp fuel systems. So point is make sure your using HD5, your local gas station may or may not have this, i dont know. And you can cook and heat with HD5.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

At least your shear pin is intact! There are a couple of spares under the hood, by the way - or a holder for them, at least...


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Good info NoCo.
B4 - Two shear pins and two split pins.

I pulled the plugs and it looks like it was run a little rich. I suspect I’ll have an answer for this when my service manual shows up, but at what point do you think about rejetting/tuning for elevation?


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Better rich than lean - motors ain't people... I hope you only had one plug, never heard of 2 cylinder Honda 5. You can find a little hotter plug if you look around, try it and see if you get the color on the plug you want. I'd also check the valves, pretty easy to adjust using marks on pulley/flywheel and they can also cause carbon build-up. I've never had to change jets and have rebuilt carb twice, kit is like $20 (or was) and a few more bucks for throttle body gasket. I'd take to Jordanelle and put a few hours on it before fiddling with carb settings, there's not much tuning to be done on that motor... I broke down and bought a cheapo tachometer to set idle speed only because I couldn't get rid of the "clunk" when engaging forward/reverse... turned out my guess of 600 rpm was close enough, the clunk is still there. 

Hondas are pretty bombproof. Used to be more common among outfitters 20 years ago than today - price of parts & Honda proprietary nonsense contributed to phaseout, and other makes just got better. See a lot of Tohatsu (Nissan) now as they're less expensive and durable. Off-season is the time to learn your motor, you can run about anythiing less than 10 hp in a 5 gallon bucket or buy a pair of earmuffs for your water intake. Better to find a problem in the shop than on the water...


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Definitely won’t be used for a while. Hopefully the backend of this ski season treats us well.









plug

I pulled the carb today, too. Looked pretty clean but gonna run some cleaner thru it and replace the rubber gaskets and o rings. Ethanol free fuel from here on out.
Stock jet is stamped 78. I’m considering getting a #77 or #76 if I can find it after market. Honda only offers 78, 75, and 73. 90% of operations will be 3500-5000’. Maybe I’ll just leave it and it’ll be fine.

Pulled the lower and checked the water pump. Definitely needs an impeller kit but I’m not sure how to feel about the housing. It looks like it got hot enough to melt the plastic and smear it around. I’m guessing it ran while out of water. Seems like a whole new kit is in order.


















Gotta figure out transom stuff, too. Likely gonna replicate the DRE setup but make it in house with 1.5” sch 40 6063 tubing. Anybody have that setup? Anything you would change?


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

Talk to Tim from recretec he has and off the shelf transom, and he custom made one for my raft and motor. I’ll try and get some pictures up.


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

All adjustable, fit‘s my16’ and will go down to I believe13’. Super stiff. Motor has no flex.


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

Here is a picture of a quick and dirty tiller extension.


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Thanks to the Buzzards for your collective knowledge, especially @BGillespie at Jordan River Boat Works and @B4otter for your knowledge of the motor.

Got things assembled and did a shakedown test on Utah Lake yesterday. The motor ran terribly at first an I thought it might have to do with rejetting the carb for a slightly higher elevation (Sea level jet is #78, Honda also offers a #75 jet for ~7000' operation and a #72 for ~9000'. I found a #77 for a Honda Ruckus that fits, figure that tunes it for roughly 2000'). Pulled the plug to check it and, nope, lots of oil on the plug. Changed it and it ran just fine. Per recommendation of the manual I put a bit of oil thru the spark plug hole for winter storage, I'm wondering if I put too much on there? There was also a small bit of oil where the prop was resting in my truck bed and I'm thinking it's motor oil and not gear case oil. Curious if the oil is moving around when I move it between resting on it's side to hanging it on the transom. I am storing it proper orientation when it's on its side.

Even had a DNR officer kind enough to make sure I had all my gear at the ramp 

Planning on a one-day Westwater 4/1.


----------



## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

nice extension for your cob!


----------



## Swatdot (Jun 19, 2012)

Spare blades for my Piranha props. Good tool kit, extra impellers, gear lube and crankcase oil. Spark plugs, ether for starting a wet engine. Liquid gasket, don't forget duct tape!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

4/1 Westwater was a go. I planned on only motoring out after the rapids, but got antsy and went to give it a quick rip above them.

Immediately spun on an eddy line as I started to crank the tiller. Put the back end into a rock and busted a shear pin. I mean like 30 seconds in. Amazing, really.

Pulled it onto the deck, pulled the prop, replaced the shear pin. A hammer (or a bigger wrench, if nothing else) and a nail set/punch are going in the kit. The part broken in the prop shaft didn't want to come out for a minute.

Happy to report that I didn't have a fouled plug this time, so it must've been a bit too much oil that I put on top of the cylinder thru the spark plug hole for storage. 

Snapped the cob extension a little later on. 4' length of sch 40 abs wasn't the ticket. My bit of oar handle is a little too short. I'll figure it out..


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Good job! West water at these levels with a motor is certainly a challenge.. I'm looking forward to running the new snout down there, but I think I'll wait for a little more water in the river lol..


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Other than the SNAFU above the rapids, we didn't motor til after Last Chance. We pulled it once through a low water cobble bar but ran it the whole time aside from that.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Ahh, I thought you motored the whole thing. years ago, on Thanksgiving, before you needed a permit in the off season, we motored the entire thing in an Avon Pro.. I'm thinking if you hit the cobble bar that you went to the left of the island at the bottom. Learned years ago that at lower water, take the island on the right, and cut across at the tip of the island, and I do mean close. For some reason a channel always forms there.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Launching Cat on Thurs 4/29.

Checked the oil on my motor for a pre trip inspection









Freaked out. Thought it was the head gasket. Checked compression and it came back right on spec. Called a mechanic in town today and he said it was likely the seal between the powerhead and the lower unit which carries the water or a thermostat.

Thermostat involved the least work and he had parts in stock. Pulled it and, sure enough, it was stuck open with a bunch of debris in there.










On both the Utah Lake test run and Westwater I noticed that the water coming out of the tell tale was surprisingly cold. Made me wonder about the thermostat. After some research, it also explains why the old oil smelled like gas.

I likely still won't keep a thermostat in the spares kit on the river, but it's probably a good thing to check with the annual preseason inspection. Gaskets are cheap. Thermostat, $40; Gasket, $1.75.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Good job catching it before your motor shelled!


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)




----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

Hers a quick tiller I made. Just used it for the last leg of the lower salmon, needs some refinement, but allowed me to sit in my seat and have control of the motor.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Conduit was fine? My ABS broke day 1 motoring out from Westwater.


----------



## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

FWIW, ABS is a soft plastic, Many of the key differences between Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) and Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) are either minor or situational, but the one that stands out to me, is ABS is black, and can get soft rapidly compared to PVC, which is white. You might try making your tiller handle out of PVC instead, it's what I've used for years and never had an issue.


----------



## MotorMan27 (May 9, 2014)

MNichols said:


> FWIW, ABS is a soft plastic, Many of the key differences between Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) and Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) are either minor or situational, but the one that stands out to me, is ABS is black, and can get soft rapidly compared to PVC, which is white. You might try making your tiller handle out of PVC instead, it's what I've used for years and never had an issue.


Electrical conduit is heavier wall (schedule 80) and uv resistant so it won't crack as soon but I'm not sure if the I.D matches up. Aluminium is the only thing for me bc it's a full time use not just to motor off (ww) on(deso)


----------



## Bobthegreat (Mar 3, 2019)

The conduit was fine.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

MotorMan27 said:


> Aluminium is the only thing for me bc it's a full time use not just to motor off (ww) on(deso)


Current setup is sch 10 EMT sleeved/epoxied inside a broken cataract oar shaft. The bit of oarshaft is too short to put me to my motor deck and ID is just a litttttle too big for the tiller handle. Metal on the tiller end and fiberglass on my end helps keep weight down, too.


----------



## Panama Red (Feb 10, 2015)

Spare Motoe


----------



## Bill Bones (Nov 26, 2020)

I just have to say, great thread everybody. Pat yourselves on the back for this one.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Update from OP


----------



## Bill Bones (Nov 26, 2020)

Goddamn, shit is getting realer and realer up in here


----------



## Pinchecharlie (Jul 27, 2017)

Hijack...
Is it true you guys have ice makers on board your snout rigs??


----------



## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

Pinchecharlie said:


> Hijack...
> Is it true you guys have ice makers on board your snout rigs??


ARB fridge/freezer that can make ice count?


----------



## azpowell (Aug 14, 2014)

BGillespie said:


> ARB fridge/freezer that can make ice count?


one of these will be going in my snout for sure...


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Thought the bushings were missing.
“never used as a runner, always just a spare. Half a Grand Canyon trip and a Deso”

Mounting frame OD: 35.00mm
Wall thickness: 5.64mm
Worn: 4.34mm
Total wall thickness left: 1.30mm

fuck


----------



## Bill Bones (Nov 26, 2020)

Is that the haggs-ass motor I saw on KSL a little while back advertised as "like new"? The stenciled _12 _looks familiar.


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

Bill Bones said:


> Is that the haggs-ass motor I saw on KSL a little while back advertised as "like new"? The stenciled _12 _looks familiar.


That's the one.
Wish I still had the ad.

When I first ran it, I was only getting ~65 lbs of compression. At my elevation (8500') it was supposed to be 120. 
Whoever did the valve lash adjustment botched it and gave it no clearance, so the valves were cracked open at TDC. 
I texted him told him everything that I had found wrong so far and that I was $450 in parts in under a week. 
That number is closer to $700 now, and half the skeg is still missing.
He did refund me $250, and I got it for $1850, so I'm at $2300.
He also said "under 100 hours on the motor" - when I went and looked at it, I asked where the hour meter was. He said he didn't think it had one. I found it, but it was aftermarket and didn't work. 

With that said, It did do a great job pushing our 9 boats/21 people on Cat last week.


----------



## Bill Bones (Nov 26, 2020)

Incredible how much mechanical learning I've done by buying shitty stuff on KSL! Also how much money I've poured into parts...😬


----------



## Lone Star (May 16, 2021)

i promise that these protein propellers can do more but know i am just dreaming. i enlist young bodies and extra oars. no hudge surprises or OMG WAS REALLY TOO GOOD TO BE TRU!


----------



## tBatt (May 18, 2020)

B, yous just mad bc you haven’t done a private trip with us since I got a motor.

I have a vague memory of waking up to you saying “oh for fucks sake” around 5a when we woke up on the lake and not yet at North Wash after floating thru the night, twice.

We’ll get the crew together and do a 5 day with operational motors. Getting harder to do when the kids are having kids.

Roster is getting pretty full, though. Maybe October.


----------

