# Cataract Canyon Motor Question??



## fishingraft (Aug 30, 2015)

I usually go big. 150hp Honda is my go-to, only problem is nobody on the river works on them, so make sure you have all your maintenance done at home.


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## swiftwater15 (Feb 23, 2009)

Always at least one smart-ass answer. Do a search though, there are lots of threads on this.


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## Skyman (Jun 26, 2006)

swiftwater15 said:


> Always at least one smart-ass answer. Do a search though, there are lots of threads on this.


I'm glad at someone had a smart ass comment. I wouldn't expect any less. Yeah, I did a search. Some of the comments were all over the board and were old. I was hoping for some fresh comments. Seems like the Honda 2HP with the plastic blade was pretty bomber and pushes as good as some 4 - 5HP motors. Lightweight and can lay on its side. Rental options I guess was the main question. I've called a few boat rental outfits and they don't rent motors without the boat.


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## anjarnold8 (Mar 9, 2017)

I just ran a cat trip with a motor for the first time. We averaged about 4.8mph (one guy brought a gps) with a 6hp 2-stroke motor. The 2-stroke was nice because we were easily able to pull the fuel line, burn the fuel in the engine until it stopped, and then store the motor on its side. 

We used about 8 gallons motoring for all the flat water. We just got a used motor for a few hundred bucks and had it tuned up. The only issue we had (not sure if anyone else has experienced this) but it would shut down after it got really hot. I'm not sure if it was a cooling issue because of the sediment in the river, but we eventually took the cover off and it ran great after that (just really loud).

We tried to get our boats as much in a straight line as possible to help with surface drag. The only other thing we did was to run the motor just under full throttle because you use less fuel and don't give up a meaningful amount of speed that way. 

Good Luck!


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## dardusius (May 21, 2009)

I used a 3hp air-cooled motor for this trip and it did fine for an NRS E160 raft with my family of 4. However, it was a bit of a pain because it had a small, integrated gas tank that I had to keep stopping to refill. Something that runs off a larger, separate tank would definitely be preferable.

One other thing to keep in mind - adding a motor to your raft means you need to register it as a motorized vessel. I got a warning on the river for not having done so.


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## anjarnold8 (Mar 9, 2017)

*Registration and Fire Extinguisher*



dardusius said:


> One other thing to keep in mind - adding a motor to your raft means you need to register it as a motorized vessel. I got a warning on the river for not having done so.


Good point. I did this, but because all my gear was given to me from family from the last 20+ years and never was registered the DMV was a little stingy about proof of ownership. 

Also, it isn't on the permit (that I saw at least) but motorized rigs need a fire extinguisher.


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## giegs (Apr 23, 2015)

Motored a flotilla of 6 boats out last fall with a single old 6hp Evinrude. Worked great. Make sure you've got a spare prop, pull cord, rebuild parts, etc. We had two 5gal fuel cans and just swapped the connection over when the first got low. 

Give some thought to where you'll want to fit the thing when you're not using it. We had ours wrapped up in burlap and in someones nose bag until it was needed.


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## mattman (Jan 30, 2015)

Skyman said:


> I'm glad at someone had a smart ass comment. I wouldn't expect any less. Yeah, I did a search. Some of the comments were all over the board and were old.


But what makes you think us jackasses have gotten any more specific or concise? 

Be as prepared as possible to work on the thing, have all the tools you need, some spare parts for things that tend to break. Know when to stop tinkering and enjoy the scenery.


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## Jiggyjay (Dec 29, 2016)

anjarnold8 said:


> Also, it isn't on the permit (that I saw at least) but motorized rigs need a fire extinguisher.


In utah it's recommended but not required for boats with an outboard setup. At least that's how I understand it.


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## JNtortuga (Jun 10, 2015)

Does anyone have recommendations for storing a motor on a raft when it's not in use? Is it worth making a box that's water-tight? Or putting it in a large guitar drybag?

Thanks!


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## smhoeher (Jun 14, 2015)

It's interesting that I was just asking Buzzards about how to rig boats for motoring the upper part of Deso in three weeks. I'm using an older 6 hp Evinrude, two stroke. I'm going to test it out on WW on Sunday. I'll give you some feedback.

Here's something to share since your looking at buying and using a motor. Years ago, my parents took a 12' rowboat and ancient, even then, 5 hp Evinrude from Bullfrog to Rainbow Bridge and back, several different times. Dad, at 80 now, still likes to boat (mostly as a passenger now). Mom is the definition of morbidly obese  but they've done some really cool things in the outdoors.


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## smhoeher (Jun 14, 2015)

For raft storage - I'm going down Deso in three weeks and I plan on wrapping and tightly strapping my motor in my used, canvas, swamp cooler cover and putting it deep in the cargo bay or drop bag. My father wrapped and strapped tight the top part in a large, old, dry bag and put the propeller end in a bucket to protect the propeller. My motor is a little big and doesn't store very well on my boat. I know some people have just left it lifted up and kept it on the transom the rest of the trip. I boated with a BLM ranger and he had something custom that attached on the side to his frame. How confident are you of staying dry and upright?


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## JNtortuga (Jun 10, 2015)

Thanks for the thoughts. We nixed the box idea- probably going to wrap/drybag the motor when it's not in use. 

As far as staying upright goes, confidence is all well and good for any boater- but in my experience preparedness goes a lot further (and is less likely to turn into arrogance).

Rig to flip, dress to swim!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

It's a lot easier to get a 2 stroke to run again after it has been submerged. A 4 stroke will need an oil change.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

*Tether your motor to frame.*

Along with all the other usefull advice here. Be sure to tether your motor to your frame or secure anchor point with a chain or rope when in use or not in use. For some reason it pops off from striking something ( rock, sand bar, lose clamps, droping it, etc. ) you can retrieve it and if it hangs up on the river bottom it will bring your boat to a screaming halt when tethered to the boat. An available fire extinguisher never hurts. Have fun, the motor will definitely give you more shore time to sightsee.


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## Skyman (Jun 26, 2006)

So I ended up picking up a nice Honda 5HP 4 stroke. Pretty light. Too long to fit in a dry box though so I'll need to figure out another way to store. Shouldn't be too difficult. Nice thing about this motor is it is meant to be transported on its side. It should work out great!


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

If this has already been said please disregard. When a 4 stroke motor in stored on its side, ALWAYS remove the spark plug and pull the start cord a few times before attemping to start. This will keep you from destroying the crank shaft if oil has leaked where it doesn't belong.


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

My 1999 Honda 5 hp 4 stroke has half a dozen Cat trips on it and carried on its side. It's labeled, believe it is tiller handle up but can't remember... at any rate, I have never pulled plug and cranked to empty cylinder of residual oil although that certainly can't hurt. I do let sit on the transom for 15-30 minutes before starting, usually hang it at Mineral when rigging and stow it at Brown Betty, then hang again below rapids. Gravity seems to work...
I do run any motor (2 or 4 stroke) out of gas when stopping whenever possible. That's old school technique from 70's and 80's, habit I got into that seems to serve well. Your Honda will continue to motor maybe 2-3 minutes after disconnecting fuel line, depends on throttle. A little practice will soon educate... every motor is different. I also almost never run above 1/2 throttle, have pushed 6 boats at 5-6 mph with no problems. YMMV especially with wind...
3.2 gallon Honda running tank sufficient for the 52 miles Mineral to confluence and 30 or so miles thereafter, that's pushing 3-4 boats. I carry an additional gallon "just in case."
Finally broke down and bought a custom box from PRO a few years ago. My Honda is long shaft (20") and overall just fits in box between my side tubes (48" center to center). It sticks up a little higher than I'd prefer but sure makes storage quick and easy. Wrapping in tarp works, you still have to deal with gasoline but strap that tank down well and especially keep track of gas hose (carry a spare, w/filter). Try to minimize time motor or gas can spends inside dry box or you'll develop odor... a little baking soda sprinkled in box helps with that.
I've had my Honda almost 15 years, it's served me well on variety of craft. Keep lower unit and engine oil changed and you should be good for many years - and if possible, run it on ethanol-free gasoline. Seals and any rubber or synthetic parts in contact with fuel just prefer "no corn" fuel...


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

I was told by a marine mechanic that you don't want to run the newer 4 stroke motors out of fuel like the old school. I found that out after our fuel pump went bad after 30 hrs on our 6 hp 4 stroke. They recommend draining the float bowl and using non ethenol fuel.


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Conveniently, my Honda has a drain for the bowl - not sure about more recent models.
Let fuel sit in any 2 or 4 stroke motor and you're going to have problems. Not arguing with your mechanic, but been running that protocol for thousands of miles motoring and never a problem... I'd have to have seen your fuel pump (disassembled) to know, but guess what may have killed it is dried out seal/baffle, which can happen if stored over a winter and motor not fogged - or in dry desert (like where I live). Like all small engines, your motor is happiest if used every few weeks or months - which is why we should draw more permits! 
One reason disconnecting gas line/running motor out of fuel at the end of the day got started is because it's possible to siphon fuel continuously if you have a good vacuum going and leave your line hooked up... Can't actually think of a reason not to run out every night, 'though - nothing is going to dry out overnight assuming you hook back up and get going again the next day.


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