# Raft frame beyond straight line?



## Yukon77 (Jan 30, 2013)

Folks,

This is regarding a frame for an 18 foot ST Sotar urethane raft. 

I know that the standard best practice is to limit the length of a raft frame to the straight line of the raft. In my case, I am considering extending the frame approximately 6 inches beyond the straight line onto the first section of the raft that does have a little rise (Section A). The concept includes a slight bend at the end of the frame ends to match the slight rise of the tubes so the vast majority of the loaded frame will rest on the straight line. 

I would love to hear from anyone who has done or considered doing this. Many thanks for listening.


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## BamaRafter (Mar 21, 2013)

Why not just attach a trailer section fore or aft to get the length you need. Six inches doesn't seem like it would be worth the trouble though. Always think about keeping a frame or any other peice of equipment adaptable and versatile for future needs.


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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

If the frame isn't sitting flat on the straight tubes, it may wear particularly hard where it contacts the tube on the kick. It may also sag along the length. You'll also have very little room in the bow/stern for dunnage. My frame runs the full length of the straight tubes and I wish I had more room for drybags in each end.

-AH


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## BilloutWest (Jan 25, 2013)

Andy H. said:


> If the frame isn't sitting flat on the straight tubes, it may wear particularly hard where it contacts the tube *on the kick*. ......


How far forward does your re-inforced patch for the frame rub go on your 18' SOTAR?

What is being suggested here is that with flexing of the bow into waves you will need to expect additional wear there over any other spot under the frame and will need to monitor that. Even with an upward bent frame at that spot.

= = = = = = =

Question that may be relevant.

Does anyone recommend the use of any material that can be placed under the frame to limit wear on the raft?
{In the old days we use to place inverted thinner carpet under frames. I think it worked as long as you changed it out and stuck with fresh mold.} 

==========

Sounds like you're bucking to be the supply ship in the GC.


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## TriBri1 (Nov 15, 2011)

Rather then bending up, you could put a S curve and bend the frame in so you are getting the length you want, but not sit in the tubes. I have also seem short U shaped bays attached to the crossbar in order to hold rocket boxes.


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## BilloutWest (Jan 25, 2013)

TriBri1 said:


> Rather then bending up, you could put a S curve and bend the frame in so you are getting the length you want, but not sit in the tubes. I have also seem short U shaped bays attached to the crossbar in order to hold rocket boxes.


On a two rail come off the inside rail maybe?


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## brandob9 (Jun 13, 2010)

The front bay of my frame flexes to ride the up. It doesn't carry a lot of weight there, though.


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## BCJ (Mar 3, 2008)

I think Andy H has it right - - you're creating some complications there for not much gain. Six inches is six inches I guess. Best approach to whitewater boats is keep it simple, strong and versatile. (Hi Jack!)(Hi Andy!)


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## Yukon77 (Jan 30, 2013)

Thanks BCJ. Your advice is always good - I'll try and keep it simple. The solid floor will probably do the trick.


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## zbaird (Oct 11, 2003)

trailer frame, that way it flexes with the boat and you get a real extra bay, not 6 inches. If it did curve up it seems like boxes or whatever was in that bay would be on an angle and not ideal for passenger seating/ sleeping/whatever. I run a trailer in the back on grand/long trips that houses a row of rockets or an extra cooler as the trip needs.


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## BilloutWest (Jan 25, 2013)

Extra work but ...........

Yukon77
If this frame extension is for water containers or something else heavy with the intent to balance the raft this may be worth the work.

Better weight forward than toward the rear.


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## Yukon77 (Jan 30, 2013)

Its for three 5 gallon Jerry Gas cans.


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## TriBri1 (Nov 15, 2011)

Yukon77 said:


> Its for three 5 gallon Jerry Gas cans.


If you are working with a NRS style frame, I've seen people take a crossbar that spans from tube to tube, then secure it with four low pros with a short piece of tubing to connect them. The "trailer frame" is supported by the frame on one side and the crossbar on the other. I have seen pictures on the Buzz, but i can't find it.


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## slamkal (Apr 8, 2009)

TriBri1 said:


> If you are working with a NRS style frame, I've seen people take a crossbar that spans from tube to tube, then secure it with four low pros with a short piece of tubing to connect them. The "trailer frame" is supported by the frame on one side and the crossbar on the other. I have seen pictures on the Buzz, but i can't find it.


I did this with a nrs cat frame

Imagine nrs yoke at the end of the frame. 

Now 18" back is a standard crossbar

Then two 36" crossbar from front to back mounted on the crossbar and resting on the yoke. These are close to level, depending where they sit on the yoke. 

Then a simple ~40" bar at the other ends of the 36" crossbars

You want some foam padding where the bars and the yoke cross. You also want 1' straps to lock it together

As long as you don't put a lot of weight in the front most bay you should be found. 

I did this trick to get 12' of frame on a 14' nrs frame, and i only had 10'frame rails


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