# Not falling out of the boat tricks of the trade



## Bongo (Sep 10, 2014)

I am looking for tips to stay in the boat while rowing bigger water...

In watching raft carnage videos, you can often see the rower quickly transition from a poised rowing position to rolling off the back or side of the boat - often feet over head....

I am rowing while sitting on top of a dry box fairly up high to be able to see the river as clear as possible. Ideally, if I am headed into a big wave, I get off the seat, bend my knees and lower my center of gravity before returning to the seat to row again right after taking the hit. If I happen to hit a wave sideways then I will sometimes sit on the downstream tube for boat stability. I am not using pins or clips or oar rights so essentially it is only my own balance and gravity keeping me in the boat. The end result is that to stay in the boat at times I am getting knocked around a lot in the cockpit area...I am curious what others do in their cockpits to stay locked in bigger water and thus be able to get in a key stroke when it really counts...

Footcups?
Grab straps?
NRS makes a frame part that helps lock in your feet..anyone use that?

Interested in your experience...thanks!


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## briandburns (Jan 12, 2010)

Bongo said:


> I am looking for tips to stay in the boat while rowing bigger water...
> Interested in your experience...thanks!


When I see that things are going to get real dicey, I drop the oars, hit the floor and hold on to a strap. From there I can high side as needed. Also, using a seat to row from, rather than a drybox or cooler, seems more secure to me.

Good luck!


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## bigben (Oct 3, 2010)

seatbelt...


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## Bongo (Sep 10, 2014)

A seatbelt would do it but it might also kill me...anyone using foot cups or other foot bracing?

Dropping oars seems dicey to me - I want to know where they are...


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## BruceB (Jun 8, 2010)

*Toe straps and thigh braces*

The toe straps are small so there is no entrapment hazard. The thigh braces are simply vertical tubes. Use a real seat and hold on to your oars. How are you going to make that essential stroke if you don't even have the oars in your hands?


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## Sherpa9543 (Jul 22, 2014)

I think firm footing on kick bar, and solid grip on oars, preferably powering forward through waves will make for stability and staying planted in boat. 


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## Rich (Sep 14, 2006)

Real foot bar and a real seat.
Pins & Clips help but they are not for everyone.
Letting go of the oars is only when you are 110% certain you are flipping.
AS Bruce said, you just might need them!

BruceB, how many more years do you think you'll get out of that seat?


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## BruceB (Jun 8, 2010)

*Depends*

Three or four more years. Two bolts recently pulled out. The floppy seat contributed to a swim, although I may have gone in anyhow. Those bolts are now repaired so it's "good to go". 

The frame itself is 40+ years old - had to be one of the first when 2x6's started going out of style. The first seat was destroyed in 1996 when, after a flip, the raft got caught upside down on a tree. It was maybe two hours before we got it off; all that remained was the metal seat base. You can't see the tree in the photo but it is under there, and the raft is stuck good. I would probably still be using that first seat if not for that day. Damned trees.


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## jimr (Sep 8, 2007)

Just hold on to the stix at all costs this move has saved me from swimming and flipping many times 


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## Learch (Jul 12, 2010)

The closest I've come to flipping while rowing I jumped clear of the raft while it was a solid 90 degrees up perpendicular to the current in a wave/ hole that eats rafts and catarafts at certain flows. I bailed out on the upstream side, 110% sure it was on it's way over anyhow. Came up three waves downstream bewildered that the damn thing was still upright. I think my fat ass jumping off was the only thing that kept it from going over. That day we had six of ten craft either lose all of its occupants or flipped completely. I had a passenger in the bow fall out before I jumped, he was still taking pictures when it happened. 
I've thought of a thigh strap type of solution, but I could see those become a hazard in a flip too. I've heard that some catarafters have utilized some, but have never seen them in use.


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## pearen (Apr 28, 2007)

Tons of folks are mediocre at this. The reason I suppose is lack of practice...In a standard day on the rio, there are perhaps a few minutes total that truly require being braced in your rowing seat. Totally not a knock on anyone, its just that a lot of the time sloppy bracing is adequate to get the job done.

*The Basics:*
Step 1: Get a Triangle! The three points on your triangle are your two feet and your tail bone. Each point needs something solid to push against and it can't slide around. Your tail bone could use a grippy surface, low back seat, gear pile, or angled board. Just sitting on a slippery cooler top is not the best. Feet can be in the corner of frame and rubber or one of those foot bar things. Just putting your feet on a bar where they can slide side to side is bad. A corner or pocket is good.

Step 2: Leg Press. Use your leg muscles to lock your lower body in place. You should feel secure bow to stern and port to stbd. Your knees shouldn't be up in the way of your oar handles on the return stroke, nor should your legs be fully extended. You now feel totally locked in and you are still in your seat ready to row. If you have move out of your seat to feel locked you are doing it wrong.

Step 3: Hands on the Oars and Blades in the Water. You should be pushing as you hit that wave or hole anyway. It is incredible how much stability the oars provide. It makes sense that this would help some, but the benefit is exponential. Maybe it's the engaged core. Whatever, it works. You will know you are doing all of these right because you will not be getting tossed around in the cockpit at whatever level whitewater starts to make you nervous.

*Next steps:*
Ok, now your boat is up at a 45 (which always feels like 90). Clearly it is time to highside. Your oars are no longer doing you much good (way up in the air or way underwater) so drop them. Have a bunch of reachable handholds picked out ahead of time in different directions. Grab one or two on the high side and haul yourself onto that tube while holding on tight. Try to move your feet and establish a new triangle with your feet and a hand as the points. Practicing requires intentionally getting worked in big holes, but you will be safer for it in the long term. For starters choose holes that have safe runouts.


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## Stiff N' Wett (Feb 18, 2010)

Good advice!! Drop the oars when your going into something real hairy?


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## k2andcannoli (Feb 28, 2012)

I use a thwart on my play cat for a seat. The obvious disadvantage to this is a lack a back support, but I feel having a good forward lean, keeping your oars working, and getting a solid lock with your legs on the yoke or footbar negates alot of the need to lean back...really resting against your seat baxk is a very poor position, like back seat skiing. I choose the thwart over the seat for two main reasons; the thwart goes from tube to tube, I can highside without dropping my oars by just pushing me to one side or another with my legs. Additionally, the thwart rests on my bottom cross bar on my cat frame, this puts the thwart top roughly the same height as the top cross bar on the frame. This is a very easy way to bring your center of gravity lower, which has huge benefits for stability...additionally a lower seating position means your can run shorter oars.


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## Osseous (Jan 13, 2012)

I've thought of fabbing a T bar out of a strap and a thick dowel- that would go over my thighs, but only be held in place by my slightly bent knees. Secure it below the front of my seat. Auto eject, but secure and strong to brace against. Has anyone ever seen/tried something like this?

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## Rich (Sep 14, 2006)

Osseous said:


> I've thought of fabbing a T bar out of a strap and a thick dowel- that would go over my thighs, but only be held in place by my slightly bent knees. Secure it below the front of my seat. Auto eject, but secure and strong to brace against. Has anyone ever seen/tried something like this?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


Sounds like an entrapment issue.
Good foot bar and a good seat gives plenty of stability with no entrapment danger


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## Osseous (Jan 13, 2012)

Rich said:


> Sounds like an entrapment issue.
> Good foot bar and a good seat gives plenty of stability with no entrapment danger


As soon as your legs move, you'd release. Pushing up against it creates all the tension. Then it's just a T without a way to grab you.

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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

Thanks Pearen and others for chiming in on this topic. I know that "rolling out of the seat" move all too well... .

One thing that I'll add is that while you're highsiding in a hole, that oar that's probably popped out of the oarlock can be put to work digging into the current on the downstream side to get you out of the hole.

I concur with those arguing against rigging up entrapment hazards and think your cockpit should have only the essentials in it if you're running water with significant flip potential. Having a good footbar and solid seat are also really good for staying in place.

This also seems like a good time to bring up the three rules of rafting: 

1) Stay in the Boat,
2) Stay in the Boat,
3) Don't get out of the boat!

Great discussion!

-AH


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## BruceB (Jun 8, 2010)

Osseous - You could be on to something with the T-bar. Yes there may be an entrapment issue but I encourage you to make one and try it. It will probably take a few iterations but that's the only way to see how it works and deal with the issues that may come up. Keep us posted if you try it.


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## OCFry (Jul 29, 2015)

Never drop the oars, never get out of the boat. Simple.


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## grumper13 (Jan 14, 2008)

pearen said:


> Tons of folks are mediocre at this. The reason I suppose is lack of practice...In a standard day on the rio, there are perhaps a few minutes total that truly require being braced in your rowing seat. Totally not a knock on anyone, its just that a lot of the time sloppy bracing is adequate to get the job done.
> 
> *The Basics:*
> Step 1: Get a Triangle! The three points on your triangle are your two feet and your tail bone. Each point needs something solid to push against and it can't slide around. Your tail bone could use a grippy surface, low back seat, gear pile, or angled board. Just sitting on a slippery cooler top is not the best. Feet can be in the corner of frame and rubber or one of those foot bar things. Just putting your feet on a bar where they can slide side to side is bad. A corner or pocket is good.
> ...


Some of the most clearly articulated and useful info I've ever seen on this site....and delivered without ego too! Thanks!


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## MountainmanPete (Jun 7, 2014)

Extra points if you don't spill your beer!


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## FireGuy (Jun 13, 2014)

I like this brace I made for my foot well.









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## evL_MT (May 8, 2015)

Bongo said:


> I am rowing while sitting on top of a dry box...


I definitely use a legitimate seat, Its a high-back at that, which is fine with my PFD to me. And a foot bar too. For me I can really get the pressure on. Often while letting a passenger row I'll spin around and sit on my cooler so I can grab the sticks in an instant, which I have had to do, and sitting on that cooler to row sucked, I had no purchase. 



Bongo said:


> I am not using pins or clips or oar rights...


I could not imagine rolling like that. I rely on the "brace" that my oars provide. I also don't want to worry about my blades, I know their strait up and down. Locks, Stops, and Rights for me. So by bracing in from the foot-bar, seat, and the pressure on the oars, I can really get locked in and feel comfortable. And then it's dig hard, go in with momentum, and row, and row, and row, and keep rowing hard. Might not work for everyone but I sure feel secure. 
-


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## Sherpa9543 (Jul 22, 2014)

Aren't Pins and clips like having locks, stops and rights?


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## evL_MT (May 8, 2015)

Yes. Using either or per preference. Using nothing is kind of not a good idea I think.


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

Pearen covered it all. You need to get a seat, footbar, and either pins and clips or rights and locks ifin you are going to row some powerful big water. If you want to lay in the floor and call out for your mom when you see a big wave acomin like someone sugested then you probably oughtnot be running the big stuff. Put your feet in the corners. put you rear in a seat. push with your legs like when you take a poop. Put your blades in the water ( hell when it is really big I hardly take em out you can just steer with em in the water, just like playing nintendo). Don't be letting go of your oars until you a knocked clear out of the boat, see photo. This whole posture is called the cat brace. It gets you out of trouble when you ran some hole your buddies told you you couldn't make.


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## Rich (Sep 14, 2006)

curtis catman said:


> Pearen covered it all. You need to get a seat, footbar, and either pins and clips or rights and locks ifin you are going to row some powerful big water. If you want to lay in the floor and call out for your mom when you see a big wave acomin like someone sugested then you probably oughtnot be running the big stuff. Put your feet in the corners. put you rear in a seat. push with your legs like when you take a poop. Put your blades in the water ( hell when it is really big I hardly take em out you can just steer with em in the water, just like playing nintendo). Don't be letting go of your oars until you a knocked clear out of the boat, see photo. This whole posture is called the cat brace. It gets you out of trouble when you ran some hole your buddies told you you couldn't make.
> View attachment 11998


Love the photo!
Never let go!


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## Mopdog (Apr 24, 2014)

After being dump trucked I made this foot bar. I have added a seat mount and havent been out of the boat without the black side up since.


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## Tyrrache (Oct 27, 2014)

pearen said:


> Tons of folks are mediocre at this. The reason I suppose is lack of practice...In a standard day on the rio, there are perhaps a few minutes total that truly require being braced in your rowing seat. Totally not a knock on anyone, its just that a lot of the time sloppy bracing is adequate to get the job done.
> 
> *The Basics:*
> Step 1: Get a Triangle! The three points on your triangle are your two feet and your tail bone. Each point needs something solid to push against and it can't slide around. Your tail bone could use a grippy surface, low back seat, gear pile, or angled board. Just sitting on a slippery cooler top is not the best. Feet can be in the corner of frame and rubber or one of those foot bar things. Just putting your feet on a bar where they can slide side to side is bad. A corner or pocket is good.
> ...



I like to imagine open ocean fishing vessels in regards to oars in the water. I'm not sure what they are called but the towers that extend off a side of the boat with anchors during high water stabilize the boats substantially in big waves. A lot of videos I've seen where people flip in wave trains (looking your way cataract canyon) their oars are out of the water.


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## Osseous (Jan 13, 2012)

Paravanes, or "birds"

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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

curtis catman said:


> Don't be letting go of your oars until you a knocked clear out of the boat, see photo. This whole posture is called the cat brace. It gets you out of trouble when you ran some hole your buddies told you you couldn't make.
> View attachment 11998


I disagree, holding the oar to the bitter end works with pins and clips but less so with oar rights. Pic's hold the oar in place so it doesn't slide, so it js a pretty solid hold. Running oar rights I do let go and grab my frame in the highside. Not only does that hopefully keep my boat upright but if I flip I am in a good position to resurface between my turn each on my cage. I also practice my favorite grab spots a lot, just leaning around my boat and with my eyes closed so I know where they are. My favored spots are my seat bars, oar towers, and frontbar. My next favorite spots are whatever I can get my hands on.

I consider bracing in my cat bracing within the cage, not flopping out.


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

I figured you would disagree. This explains why you flip your boat so often and I do not. When you go in a hole you let go of your oars and start high siding, I keep mine in my hands where they belong, use them to dig and pull my boat with me still in the seat out of the hole. But this takes alot of strength in the shoulders and arms and grip.


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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

curtis catman said:


> I figured you would disagree. This explains why you flip your boat so often and I do not. When you go in a hole you let go of your oars and start high siding, I keep mine in my hands where they belong, use them to dig and pull my boat with me still in the seat out of the hole. But this takes alot of strength in the shoulders and arms and grip.


So if you and Laura start getting after each other tit for tat, would this be an internet cat fight?


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## pinemnky13 (Jun 4, 2007)

Contact cement.
Put some on your ass and some where you sit. Wait 20 minutes go raft all day long you won't move. And you won't move far away from your boat either at take out


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## swiftwater15 (Feb 23, 2009)

Knowing when to do the frame grab can save your life in a bad spot. Learned that lesson the hard way with a long class v swim. Stayed in my seat with like a boss till the boat came over. Buddy flipped the next week in the same spot. He did a frame grab, and was able to reflip after washing through the next drop. There's film of it in the 2012 or 2013 wind river race. 

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## Schutzie (Feb 5, 2013)

pinemnky13 said:


> Contact cement.
> Put some on your ass and some where you sit. Wait 20 minutes go raft all day long you won't move. And you won't move far away from your boat either at take out


Contact cement? POSH!
Sphincter control. An acquired talent, but a useful one.


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## pinemnky13 (Jun 4, 2007)

Schutzie said:


> Contact cement? POSH!
> Sphincter control. An acquired talent, but a useful one.



Ah yes, I forgot about the anal suction technique. Does not work well with the mesh seats though


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

curtis catman said:


> I figured you would disagree. This explains why you flip your boat so often and I do not. When you go in a hole you let go of your oars and start high siding, I keep mine in my hands where they belong, use them to dig and pull my boat with me still in the seat out of the hole. But this takes alot of strength in the shoulders and arms and grip.


I suppose a simple mind takes a complex situation and can only picture it one way. Apparently you need to get on some bigger water and holes.


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## mattman (Jan 30, 2015)

pinemnky13 said:


> Ah yes, I forgot about the anal suction technique. Does not work well with the mesh seats though


Well, if one were to become SO SCARED in first rapid of the run, that he crapped his pants, and there was ample time before next said rapid... 
and of course water, being the universal solvent and all, he would come unstuck from the seat to.

( A mtn. buzz thread would also probly get started to discuss the best way of getting the seat clean.)


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

lhowemt said:


> I suppose a simple mind takes a complex situation and can only picture it one way. Apparently you need to get on some bigger water and holes.


Oh Laura, I hope one day I can find a river that will make me close my eyes and grab hold of predetermined spots on my frame and pray that I make it out alive. Could you show me the way. Please list these rivers so I can be sure and never attempt a fatal decent.


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

lhowemt said:


> I suppose a simple mind takes a complex situation and can only picture it one way. Apparently you need to get on some bigger water and holes.


Oh one more thing. When you say a simple mind takes a complex situation and can only picture it one way, are you referring to a complex rapid and then picturing yourself in the bottom of your boat holding on (one way)? I did not get the jist of that. Don't get offended if that is not what you meant.


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

OK I really do have better things to do than argue with some boater I do not know. So I re read this post. That was a joke I made with a cool picture that you chose to start this debate about. So anyway don't get too upset with me. 

I do have to wonder why you picked me over Bruce B, Sherpa Rich Jimr Pearen Stiff N Wett K2 OCFry and Evl Mt who all think it is better to row your boat than lay in the floor of it. Are you still mad about me comparing MTTODD footbar to the Mad Cat one? Any way have a nice day!


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## BmfnL (May 23, 2009)

In big rollicky water when banging on rocks is not such a concern, I do the following:

/ slink down in the seat a little

// brace the legs as Pearen said, or maybe one foot forward / one foot under me

/// rotate the blades back at 60 degrees or so and keep the handles over me, pushing lightly outward and upward, thus holding me down on the seat

//// keep those blades in and feather them around to reposition


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

curtis catman said:


> OK I really do have better things to do than argue with some boater I do not know. So I re read this post. That was a joke I made with a cool picture that you chose to start this debate about. So anyway don't get too upset with me.
> 
> I do have to wonder why you picked me over Bruce B, Sherpa Rich Jimr Pearen Stiff N Wett K2 OCFry and Evl Mt who all think it is better to row your boat than lay in the floor of it. Are you still mad about me comparing MTTODD footbar to the Mad Cat one? Any way have a nice day!


Given the tone of the thread, I had no idea you were joking (where the hell was you winky winky LOL emoticon?!?!?!) I was simply pointing out that letting go can be a good choice. Not the only choice. I didn't pick you, as much as disagreeing with your advice. My bad if I missed the joke. 

My alternate description may be useful for people who aren't big burly men to know a few technique options out there when the muscles fail. Or double whammy for gals like me with wrist and shoulder problems. The older and weaker I get, the more I find rowing with my body weight (grab on the highside) an efficient use of limited energy. In class IV and under most hoke rides are pretty fun. I even employ cage swimming more and more as an exit technique. Excluding class V, where all things are different. And all boating is just training for class V, so a lot can be learned and skill gained by letting your boat go and trying to keep it down and right side uo. It is good practice for when things really hit the fan.

I have no recollection of your footbar comparison either.


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

curtis catman said:


> I figured you would disagree. This explains why you flip your boat so often and I do not. When you go in a hole you let go of your oars and start high siding, I keep mine in my hands where they belong, use them to dig and pull my boat with me still in the seat out of the hole. But this takes alot of strength in the shoulders and arms and grip.


Come on buddy. You posted a few weeks ago in the cataraft vid thread. Falling out of your seat,ditching the oars and grabbing frame. There is a time and a place for everything.


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

curtis catman said:


> I figured you would disagree. This explains why you flip your boat so often and I do not.


 I know plenty of guys who never flip their boat, dump a dirt bike,fall down skiing and roll their snowmobiles etc... They all suck. If you're not flipping, you're just floating.


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

bucketboater said:


> I know plenty of guys who never flip their boat, dump a dirt bike,fall down skiing and roll their snowmobiles etc... They all suck. If you're not flipping, you're just floating.


Bucketboater, I just wasted like thirty minutes of my life reading all 300+ post of yours. I get that you try to liven things up around here but your stuff is pretty weak. It is the same old shit, 1 you are ripping on china boats, 2 you are bragging about your big run on the Rouge, man I know that river sure is hard with that picket fence that is so tough to make a little ferry and miss. Of course if you are a little fairy it probably is. Or 3 you are just stirring shit. I suggest you stick with stirring shit. It seems to fit you pretty good. Probable the best job you a qualified for with all your mad skills.


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

curtis catman said:


> Bucketboater, I just wasted like thirty minutes of my life reading all 300+ post of yours. I get that you try to liven things up around here but your stuff is pretty weak. It is the same old shit, 1 you are ripping on china boats, 2 you are bragging about your big run on the Rouge, man I know that river sure is hard with that picket fence that is so tough to make a little ferry and miss. Of course if you are a little fairy it probably is. Or 3 you are just stirring shit. I suggest you stick with stirring shit. It seems to fit you pretty good. Probable the best job you a qualified for with all your mad skills.


I'm not sure if I should be flattered or file a restraining order. Anyway let's stay on topic. The only answer is pins and clips. I bang them in at the put in when running class five. The only way you get a legit arm brace. You can't hold onto your oars with locks when you hit lateral waves, stuck in a hole and waste tons of time fishing them out of the river when you flip. End of thread.


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## evL_MT (May 8, 2015)

bucketboater said:


> End of thread.


I concur.


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## Losthwy (Jul 17, 2016)

curtis catman said:


> View attachment 11998


Love the photo as well.


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## Bongo (Sep 10, 2014)

ok ... so I started this discussion a long time ago and thanks for a ll the great info!!...I ended up running my first trip on the grand and strapped a seat to my dry box (helpful) and bought foot pegs from NRS which I really liked for the intermediate whitewater (low foot entrapment danger with great lock in potential)...for the biggest rapids I think the most important thing was squaring up to the waves usually with both oars pushing forward or at least in the water due to a last minute correction. ...I found myself crouching with feet firmly planted on the floor (not in the locks) and knees bent and holding on to oars. When the boat got knocked to to unfavorable angle (like sideways) I was in a position to shift my weight or in worst case scenarios, drop oars and dive to the high side. Ultimately, anticipating hits was essential for me and I did stay in the boat.

My biggest problem was having my oars out the sides in bigger water where instead of helping me get ready for adjusting angle to square up for the next hit, waves would grab my oars rendering them useless until I could wrestle them free..perhaps I need to get better with choosing where and when to stick out the oars in the tumultuous stuff 

regardless, thanks for sharing - good info here


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## CSHolt (Jun 4, 2011)

One other thing I thought of is in regards to foot pegs (on the footbar) and the potential for foot entrapment. I have a personal friend who got entrapped this way and the only reason he didn't drown (in a flip) was because his ankle broke and foot released. 

My solution is to have a bar with no pegs... I did find the standard NRS footbar to be very slippery when wet. To fix this, I wrapped the bar with a an old bicycle inner tube (duct tape or zip tied on the ends)... This give me more traction on the footbar and has been great... also cost nothing but an old bike inner tube.


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## UriahJones (Aug 10, 2015)

Having just read this thread through, I'd say that there is a lot of good info here. Seems like there is a consensus that running big water without the oars locked in is going to result in more swims. 

My limited experience seems to verify this. I've got sleeves and stops on my oars and they provide no handhold whatsoever as the boat starts to tilt. They just slide right out of the locks, aided by the counterweights! 

I was out two weeks ago, got sideways in a Class IV hole and found myself swimming with my oar still in my hand


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## Schutzie (Feb 5, 2013)

Bongo;
Yes, oars catching in waves is a distraction and makes it harder to stay on your line. The Pin system I learned on was fixed; the oars would not slide or pop out of the lock if they hit something, so the first lesson learned was; Oars out of the water unless you are taking a stroke, and especially the down stream oar NEVER stays in the water longer than it takes to get a stroke in.
The good part about this setup was that the Oars were a good anchor point in rough water; the foot bar, your butt and the oars provided a fairly stable platform to keep one in their seat and holding onto the oars.
The bad part was that a second of inattention most often resulted in a broken oar. 

Anyway, glad you had a good GC trip, may you have many more.


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## mattman (Jan 30, 2015)

Schutzie said:


> The good part about this setup was that the Oars were a good anchor point in rough water; the foot bar, your butt and the oars provided a fairly stable platform to keep one in their seat and holding onto the oars.


What Schutzie said.
Anticipating the hit is also very important.

One additional way of not getting pitched that I happened across, is a foot cup for your front foot. My paddle Cat happens to have them in a great spot for when I am rowing, if I don't have my plywood floor covering them, I usually use one for my front foot, it's pretty nice.


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## wayne23 (Dec 30, 2014)

Schutzie nailed it with anticipation before the hit, time your strokes so you have your most powerful stroke at impact then push through..... hopefully. But anticipating the hit lets you get ready to brace,lean, change foot position, what ever you need to do to get ready for the hit. Read the water, its not strength, it's reading the water and anticipating what the wave, hole, eddy will do to you. Some of the best boatmen I have ever seen have been women... an not burly women. Sense they don't rely on brut strength they learn to READ WATER. The most important skill in our craft. Good luck an have fun.


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