# Welding Tabs on my dry box.



## GnarCreek (Mar 16, 2016)

Posted to the wrong forum. My mistake.


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## Rich (Sep 14, 2006)

My drybox has tabs to sit on cross rails and it works great.
Cut slots in the tabs (before welding) which allow you to cam the tabs to the cross bars instead of having to strap across the top which prevents opening without removing straps.


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## GnarCreek (Mar 16, 2016)

Great tip. Thanks a lot. I am going to look into getting this done. 

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## mttodd (Jan 29, 2009)

I've welded on a couple of frontier boxes. They are a little thinner and the warped a little. Not significantly enough to worry about. I would,however watch the o rings around the bolts and hardware they use. Maybe take them out so they don't get melted.


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## mrkyak (Jul 11, 2005)

Welding tabs are the way to go. I've done a fair amount of Al welding for my rafting gear. I'm in Ft Collins and could help you out for a six pack.


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## GnarCreek (Mar 16, 2016)

Awesome. I may have to take you up on that. Thanks. 

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## speadlight (Jul 26, 2005)

*Welding Update?*

Interested to hear how your tab welding went on the Frontier Play box. Ive got to do the same for my current build. What thickness angle did you use? Tig or Mig?


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## GnarCreek (Mar 16, 2016)

Probably 1/4" x 1 1/2. I am going to hang it on straps the first couple floats to get the height dialed before I go ahead with the tabs.


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## theignoramous (Jun 22, 2008)

Last Spring I tig welded 1/8" x 1 1/2 tabs on a FP dry box and 2 of their captains boxes. I also had some warping, but not too bad. The thinner angle is easier to weld to the sheet metal without burning through and is still plenty strong. I made the mistake of welding them on solid instead of stitching which would limit the warping further. My 10 yr old Cambridge Welding dry box with factory tabs is 1/8" stitch welded and still going strong after much abuse.


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## trevko (Jul 7, 2008)

mrkyak said:


> Welding tabs are the way to go. I've done a fair amount of Al welding for my rafting gear. I'm in Ft Collins and could help you out for a six pack.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Mountain Buzz


PM sent


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## Sharkness (Aug 5, 2009)

Any update on this ancient thread? Thinking of doing the same thing on a FP box.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I too need tabs on my FP box, but I have a 16" box and an 18" bay (all my cargo is 18" modules but the FP box was an economy purchase).

I should just sell the box and get a deeper one.


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

Tabs are the way to go, however, I had a dry box that needed to be compatible with two cataraft frames/boats. I could mount the box deeper in one frame/boat than the other. I used u-bolts and holes placed to accommodate the different frames. Yes, you have to drill hole in your dry box but with proper use of gaskets/silicon caulk and large washers clamped by nuts inside and out, they remained dry.


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

Sharkness said:


> Any update on this ancient thread? Thinking of doing the same thing on a FP box.


How did you resume this ancient thread? I thought that that was not possible without admin intervention?????


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## salmonjammer (Dec 14, 2011)

*Bolt on works great also*

I have 5 FP boxes. 4 of them hang from the frame. I simply used 1/4" 1"x1" angle aluminum and counter sank flat headed screws into the angle and then used a fender washer on the inside and a nylock nut. Put silicon on before mounting. None have leaked. No problem with the box warping due to heat.
They have been down the GR, Salmon, Middle Fork, Owyhee, and others.


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## Sharkness (Aug 5, 2009)

MT4Runner said:


> I too need tabs on my FP box, but I have a 16" box and an 18" bay (all my cargo is 18" modules but the FP box was an economy purchase).
> 
> I should just sell the box and get a deeper one.



If you're serious about selling that box let me know, I'm local in the Flathead and looking for one.


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## Sharkness (Aug 5, 2009)

GeoRon said:


> How did you resume this ancient thread? I thought that that was not possible without admin intervention?????


It just gave me a little dialogue box to check saying that I see it's an old thread and replies were unlikely, but yall showed them wrong!


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## Sharkness (Aug 5, 2009)

salmonjammer said:


> I have 5 FP boxes. 4 of them hang from the frame. I simply used 1/4" 1"x1" angle aluminum and counter sank flat headed screws into the angle and then used a fender washer on the inside and a nylock nut. Put silicon on before mounting. None have leaked. No problem with the box warping due to heat.
> They have been down the GR, Salmon, Middle Fork, Owyhee, and others.



This is really helpful, and more in my wheelhouse than brazing Al. I see these pictures you've got up 
https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67138
and have a couple questions:

- is it angle aluminum or iron you use, and if iron have you seen reactivity between the different metals?

- do you stand/sit on the boxes, and do you get flex as the tabs exert leverage on the sides of the boxes?

Thanks!


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## BGillespie (Jul 15, 2018)

To weld thicker aluminum angle to a thinner box and limit warping, bolt the angle to the box, weld, and then fill the bolt holes after everything has cooled.


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## mttodd (Jan 29, 2009)

I would personally avoid drilling your box unnecessarily to weld the tabs on. I use long reach vice grip clamps and even on FP boxes warping is minimal. Any quality box is good to go. In regard to tabs, I make some pretty nice ones out of 1/4 aluminum angle then mill a slot in the back about 1/8” deep slightly wider than the strap. Allows you to place the buckle on the tab and and strap right to the crossbar. Eliminates strapping over the box so you can open the box without unstrapping. Pm me if anyone wants or needs them.


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## salmonjammer (Dec 14, 2011)

*More on bolt on*

I used 1x1 Aluminum 1/4" thick. I cut them 8 inches or so long. I put them on with the angle down, so it wears on the angle and not the box. On my cats, no we do not set on them, the are directly behind the rower, but I have stood on them many times. On my raft, i put one under the passengers up front and another under the rowers seat. On both I built bridges so that the seat is not directly being set on, as I was afraid it would damage the seal over time. What happened is that the floor pushes up against the box, shoving it up against the bridge that the seat is bolted to and is wearing the top of my dry box on the seat bolts! It is probably doing as much damage to the seal, which doesn't really appear to be much, but is gouging out the lid where it rubs on the bolts. WE do stand on the boxes often and I have not had any issues other than one of the cat boxes hit a rock and knocked a small hole in the seam on the bottom but that was not due to the mounting.


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## Electric-Mayhem (Jan 19, 2004)

A buddy of mine uses a thick copper bar inside the box to act as a heat sink. Seems to help keep warping to a minimum. Might be overkill...but who knows. He's using a Spool Gun too...which is much less gentle then TIG.

I was thinking about doing this last year but never got around to it. I have two of the FP 36" boxes in the front of my raft. I use a drop floor...but it would be nice to not have to worry about strapping it down across the top.

I've thought about using the thinnest highest strength 3M VHB tape to adhere the aluminum angle to the box. The adhesive is cyanoacrylate based, which is the chemical that makes super glue super. VHB sticks to basically anything fairly permanently. I'm a bit warry though...not sure I trust it...but if its strong enough its a great way for the layman to add tabs to stuff without having to get a bunch of special welding equipment. Measure it out, peel, stick...stick...and let it cure. Measure measure measure...once its bonded its gonna take some work to get it off.


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## mttodd (Jan 29, 2009)

I’d be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. I’d be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.


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## Sharkness (Aug 5, 2009)

mttodd said:


> I’d be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. I’d be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.


I'm curious too. I read up a little and it sounds impressive. Consistent stress over time seems like the question.


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## GeoRon (Jun 24, 2015)

I just ordered some VHB tape. Sounds like it is a must have item. Thanks EM. I doubt I'll use it for attaching a tab to a db but there are lots of other purposes I can think of. Probably even put some in my river repair kit.


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

When I had my boxes built they custom fit the tabs to my frame for my desired height. On my captains boxes the tabs where close to the gasket and to prevent the gasket from melting we filled the boxes with water before welding. I would have to think that this method would also help with the box warping. If i remember right it took a little more juice for the weld. Not saying this is the right thing to but thought i would throw it out there. Thoughts?


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## [email protected] (Jun 1, 2010)

I have used pop rivets with pop rivet washers on the back side. Counter sunk flat head screws and nuts. I have used wood screws with washers when making wood tabs. You may have guessed I do not own a welder. The big take away is they all worked and have held up so far. I do always put a large washer or a backing plate on the other side of box from the hanging tabs.

One thing I really recommend is inflate your raft and put in the water with some weight sitting on the frame, measure from the top of floor to where the top of your frame will sit if you want to make sure you have proper clearance between box and floor of raft. It will be different then when sitting in your living room.


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## Electric-Mayhem (Jan 19, 2004)

mttodd said:


> I’d be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. I’d be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.


Well...when I was researching things the main use I saw for it was in the trailer industry. A few of the RV trailer companies use it to build their trailers including bonding the structure together and the aluminum cladding to the outside. Not sure if there is backup mechanical fastening as well...but it seems to hold up.

My biggest concern was it often uses a foam core between the adhesive layers and I think that is the weak point. It feels like dirt and water could get into the foam and start breaking it down. That is why I said the thinest possible. If I had my way...I'd want a version that doesn't use a foam based backing core.


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

I can't vouch for it but I bet roughing up both sides and sticking tabs on with Sikaflex 252 would do the job. I can't confirm this but I was once told that is what they use to hold together the two pieces that make a jetski hull. It's serious stuff.


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## Nubie Jon (Dec 19, 2017)

So.... I just got my set of tabs from @mttodd only because I don't go to the PO Box often enough..... After seeing these I can't wait (hopefully this weekend) to have a friend weld them on for me... I can't say that this is the end all design... but it is certainly clean and sleek which is what I was looking for. Check him out.... Opps sorry not (shaking my head yes) promoting his product!


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## snowfish00 (Jul 6, 2020)

mttodd said:


> I would personally avoid drilling your box unnecessarily to weld the tabs on. I use long reach vice grip clamps and even on FP boxes warping is minimal. Any quality box is good to go. In regard to tabs, I make some pretty nice ones out of 1/4 aluminum angle then mill a slot in the back about 1/8” deep slightly wider than the strap. Allows you to place the buckle on the tab and and strap right to the crossbar. Eliminates strapping over the box so you can open the box without unstrapping. Pm me if anyone wants or needs them.


I know this is an old thread but I wanted to see if you still could make these tabs? I tried to send a private message but I am locked out of my old account for some reason and had to make a new profile and it won't let me send private messages.


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## blueboater79 (Apr 24, 2021)

mttodd said:


> I would personally avoid drilling your box unnecessarily to weld the tabs on. I use long reach vice grip clamps and even on FP boxes warping is minimal. Any quality box is good to go. In regard to tabs, I make some pretty nice ones out of 1/4 aluminum angle then mill a slot in the back about 1/8” deep slightly wider than the strap. Allows you to place the buckle on the tab and and strap right to the crossbar. Eliminates strapping over the box so you can open the box without unstrapping. Pm me if anyone wants or needs them.


These sound cool. It would be great to strap the box down via the tabs, avoiding straps running over the top. Do you have any pictures that you could share? I might be interested in getting a set shipped out to 98847.
Thanks,
Jason


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## Pine (Aug 15, 2017)

Not sure where you're located, but when I needed some Aluminum welding done, I went to the place that makes and repairs jet boats in Garden City, Idaho. They have some very talented TIG welders there.


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