# Cooler and dry box placement



## yourrealdad (May 25, 2004)

I am about to go on my first overnight trip with the raft. I guess I haven't paid enough attention when on my buddies' boats, but what is the general consensus on how to put a cooler and dry box into the frame?

I have a Yeti 125 and so it is roughly 20" tall, I have on land a 12" drop from frame to floor, the "rim tab" around the Yeti sits at roughly 15 1/2". So it seems I cannot rest the yet on that rim (if that is even something you are supposed to do) so do I just adjust my frame so the yeti is held by friction at a point above my floor? It will be a seat for 1-2 people, will it warped or dented the yeti this way?

Also if one were to have a dry box without tabs how are people elevating it off the floor? Drop bags? I don't really like the look of the NRS slings.

Do people put coolers and dry boxes in drop bags or is there another method?

Thanks,

Kevin


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## thinksnow (Aug 21, 2013)

You can use two 9' cam straps the cradle the cooler and dry box to keep them off the floor. I would *snug* the cross bars to hold the cooler tight but not wedged. The Yeti is a sweet cooler but it is tall. If you row from it your oar towers may need to be taller. Some people do use a drop bag to hold thier coolers and boxes off the floor. 2 cam straps are only $15. Hope this helps


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## Quiggle (Nov 18, 2012)

Ive never been a fan of drop bags for coolers and dry boxes. I use straps and these. https://www.nrs.com/product/1448/strap-slides they work great once set to the appropriate hight, but it can be a pain setting them up your first time.


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## mkashzg (Aug 9, 2006)

As previously mentioned all you really need are the 2 - 9' straps but I do prefer the 1.5" wide that NRS makes. FWIW. I did a ton of research on coolers before I purchased to make sure that what I got fit my frame space well and did not sit too high in the frame as many I looked at had that issue but I run a pretty small boat also.


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## mkashzg (Aug 9, 2006)

Sorry was in a bit of a hurry earlier but the reason I like the 1.5" straps is that they seem to stay in place a little better and also don't get twisted up as easy either but 1" will work fine too. It is also worth mentioning that you need a system in place to secure your cooler into your frame across the top in case you flip and to help keep the cooler in place. I like to use 2 sets of Loop straps attached to either side of the frame bay for this purpose as they are easy to adjust and slide to the side to allow access to your cooler. Good luck getting it sorted out and hope this helps!


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

cascade sells these cooler slings also.. I helped put them on a friends boat this spring. they seem to work fairly well for 15 bucks. Cooler Sling | Cascade River Gear


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## idaho_h2o (May 5, 2005)

No need for drop bag or nrs straps. 2" webbing with sewn loops works better than anything, then throw some loop straps over the top. You can use trucker strap corner protectors to help eliminate rotation. Those Cascade cooler slings look like they would work well but I would end up sewing them once you figure out the height. I've tried those metal slides but they would eventually slip for me.

Same thing would work for dry box but unless this is a short term set up, you will want to get some tabs welded or bolted on. Much more stable to row from.

It's a little smaller than the Yeti 125 but the Canyon Prospector is awesome for this- no straps needed to hang it. Nothing wrong with Yeti but they're not really made for rafting.


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## Willie 1.5 (Jul 9, 2013)

I rig my boat according to the needs of the trip, drop bags provide the most flexibility for different cargoes.


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## Duckins (Nov 7, 2008)

I have a Yeti 125 as well. Like someone said, they are tall and not really made for rafting. It is hard to put a flip seat over top of them. If you put a pad on it for seating your beers won't be as accessible. 

The NRS cooler mounts work OK, but if I were to do it again I'd go for the Cascade Cooler Sling for $15. You won't be able to hang the Yeti from its lip and I wouldn't squeeze it much. I don't see any reason you couldn't put it in a drop bag, but that's more expensive and possibly less stable than slings.

I'd get someone to weld tabs on your drybox. It should be pretty cheap.


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## yourrealdad (May 25, 2004)

Thanks for all the replies.

So it sounds like everyone agrees on a few things: Don't squeeze the Yeti, Yeti are overpriced, really tall, not made for rafting coolers (only reason we have it is wife has pro deal) and most say use slings and not drop bags. Straps over the whole cooler to keep it locked down.

I will probably be rowing from a small RTIC cooler for now, but eventually a drop box. Are most people just using slings for the drop box too? Just seems like tabs up the cost by about $100-250 depending on how you look at it.

Thanks again


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## DaveScott (Jul 12, 2017)

The cascade straps are pretty good as they tend to keep the straps from spreading too far when dropping the cooler in. I like the idea of webbing with water knots so it is set once. I'd want to get polyester to avoid the stretch. I really like the Pelican coolers since they have the corner slots to anchor the cooler down to the frame. But I still use the strap to ensure the lid stays closed.

As for the box tbs are the way to go as they make a solid anchor to the boat. I'm getting a new dry box this offseason and I wouldn't consider a version that didn't have the tabs. I guess if I found one really cheap, I'd weld the tabs on, but if getting a new one tabs are the way to go.

Now to hijack the thread a bit - anyone have thoughts on triangle style (I.e. Cambridge) vs L style (I.e. DRE) tabs?


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

I like to use really wide trucker strap and pop rivets with backup washers.


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## Hooter (May 29, 2016)

All the advise is good and would work well. Just depends on how much you want to pay. 
One recommendation is to make sure your 125 is as close to the center of your rig as possible. I used to run mine in the front bay with a row of rocket boxes nearest the rowing compartment. I would then sit on top of a dry box to row. After adding a passenger or two I couldn't keep that thing on line in any moving water. I've only flipped twice so far and both were on the same trip with that 125 in front during my inaugural season. Learned the hard way. I still sit on the box but now the 125 is right in front of me, then an additional and smaller dry box. I've adjusted the oar towers slightly as to not smash my hands on the cooler but still have the occasional knuckle buster. Table across that front box just about evens out the height differential with the yeti, add a Paco and it's perfect. 
I'm sure you've already thought about this and I'm preaching, but just in case. 
Blue Skies 


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz


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## yourrealdad (May 25, 2004)

My eventual setup will be rowing from a drybox (sounding like a Mad Cow at this point, when I can afford it), then open footbar bay, then Yeti bay, then drop bag with a table bay. 4 bay 14' raft and frame.

Sound good?


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## Willie 1.5 (Jul 9, 2013)

RE: Dry box tabs. L style tabs are much more aggressive towards other stuff when packed into a trailer for transport. The triangle style doesn't seem to chew up whatever is packed next to it.


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## wack (Jul 7, 2015)

RE: Dry box tabs.
I just ordered the box I wanted then went to the local metal supply store and ordered some 1" angle. I cut them to about 3" in length, slotted them, marked where on the dry box I wanted them for seating height, then took them to a friend to weld on in exchange for a 12pack. If you don't know someone with a TIG then perhaps just order them when you order a box.


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## Hooter (May 29, 2016)

yourrealdad said:


> My eventual setup will be rowing from a drybox (sounding like a Mad Cow at this point, when I can afford it), then open footbar bay, then Yeti bay, then drop bag with a table bay. 4 bay 14' raft and frame.
> 
> 
> 
> Sound good?



Good to go bro! 


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz


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## brendodendo (Jul 18, 2004)

YRD, I use a guy (Kevin) at Defiant Pack / UpSki to do my custom sewing in Carbondale. He has a custom sewing shop and prices are right. If you decide to go with seatbelt straps for the cooler / dry box, he can get you set up. I'm happy to go over a few things with you as you start kitting out your rig. Placement, strapage, row height, etc. EEBAR. Everybody eventually becomes a rafter.


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## yourrealdad (May 25, 2004)

Brendo,

Thats good to hear. I have been doing some youth biking with Alex? from Defiant, so maybe I can get those guys to make some stuff. Didn't event think about that. Got one drop bag from Jan at Stitches n Stuff, but can always support even more local.

I might take you up on some pointers for rigging. And yes I am slowly and sadly losing my kayaking edge for the fat curves of a raft.


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## tmacc (Sep 6, 2009)

Kevin,
Like a lot of folks setting up their first or even second raft/cat, we bought used and inexpensive gear. We wanted a kitchen box for our first GC trip and Frontier Play had a deal going so we bought one. We were using the Sotar boxes from our other frame which have a side tabs and that was the way I rigged the new frame. I went to Home Depot and bought a piece of 1.5'' x 1.5'' x 1/8'' aluminum angle and bolted full length it to the side of the FP box with counter sunk machine screws. Lasted for many years till we sold it.


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