# Sheet metal oar stands.



## fishguts (Nov 21, 2009)

Has any body had any luck building sheet metal oar stands that will mount to the wood on a double rail frame (I don't plan on using U bolts)? I'm considering 1/8 cold roll skeletonized for weight with a DOM top to house a bushing for the oar lock. Ive seen some great stuff on threads lately however I'm just a little lower tech than the CNC crowd. I'm using cardboard templates, plasma, GTAW or MIG for the build. Any thoughts or pics would help. Thanks!


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## Rich (Sep 14, 2006)

fishguts said:


> Has any body had any luck building sheet metal oar stands that will mount to the wood on a double rail frame (I don't plan on using U bolts)? I'm considering 1/8 cold roll skeletonized for weight with a DOM top to house a bushing for the oar lock. Ive seen some great stuff on threads lately however I'm just a little lower tech than the CNC crowd. I'm using cardboard templates, plasma, GTAW or MIG for the build. Any thoughts or pics would help. Thanks!


Sheet metal and wood are two things that will NEVER be on my raft (think sharp & pointy, no thanks)


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

I disagree with Rich. I run a frame constructed of 1.5"x8" mahogany planks for the side rails, and unistrut crossbars. The towers are a pyramid-shaped steel. Though I didn't weld them myself, I think they would be fairly easy to fab if you have the tools. 
Steel Oarlock Stands
Mine are powdercoated, or enameled black, rather than the unfinished metal. I also think mine point the thole pin closer to plumb- not so far angled out, but it's kinda hard to tell from the photo on that link.

Sharp metal is a concern, but ground and finished properly shouldn't pose any threat greater than, say, drybox corners. I'm also very partial toward the wood side-rails. They're easy to walk on safely, strong, can set my beer on them through decent sized rapids, and easy to strap ammo boxes to where they won't touch the tubes.

The 2" tubular aluminium frames, that are so en vogue, I find dangerous ankle-breakers to try to walk on. Plus, the little allen set screws that hold many of the fittings together tend to wear grooves in the tubing, leading pieces to fall apart at generally unfortunate times. It's also not uncommon to see tubes that don't fit in the fittings anymore because somebody's cranked on the set screw a little too hard and dented the tube out of round.

Fish- I'll try to get a pic of my frame posted, or maybe a link. I think you'll be able to build something that will work well for you.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

Bolt-On Oarlock Stand
This Clavey tower is just about what I've got.










There's an early version of my rig- probably that frame's first trip. You can see pretty well what the frame is all about.


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## mgpaddler (May 3, 2009)

My advise to you if you do plan to build something like those that climbdenali provided a link to would be to box them in. That is to say, box in the open side so you can still get at the oar lock or pin to place the nut or split ring. I folded a set of those over just pulling on the oars. I have some friends that are playing with that idea and others that have added another angle on the open side to give it more rigidity. At any rate, I like that style better for flat decked side rails but would like to see something stronger then currently offered. Cascade offers some powder coated ones that claim to be stronger, we'll see. Good luck with the project.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

Man, MG, you must have strong oars- and arms- to bend over a set of towers! I've folded oars underneath the boat before with these towers. Actually, I've done it once, and my buddy did it once. The time I did it, the oar was toast, and the 5/8" hardened steel thole pin was also bent out at 45 degree angle, or so. I have to wonder if the towers you mangled were a different style (cheaper) than the ones I bought from Down River Equipment. . .?


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## mgpaddler (May 3, 2009)

I think they were just cheap. They are the zinc coated ones that NRS and Cascade sell for about $50 a pair. I think the the black powder coated ones that Cascade and Clavey offer will be better as they have an additional angle on the open side. Like I said we'll see. My oars are 11 foot Sawyer Smokers, and yeah, I can bend them.


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## fishguts (Nov 21, 2009)

Rich said:


> Sheet metal and wood are two things that will NEVER be on my raft (think sharp & pointy, no thanks)


The wood will be rounded off with no sharp edges or hardware. The stands will be similar to the ones pictured just home made. Soooo no real threat of injury that I see. I just built the frame out of 1.5 inch sch 40 6061. Just want to get some ideas prior to diving into the oar stand build.


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