# Making wooden oars



## GOTY2011 (Mar 18, 2018)

I'm not familiar with using maple for oar shafts, but on the Sawyer Dyno-X and other wood shaft paddles and oars, fiberglass is used over Douglas Fir & cedar to provide additional flex, as those woods are softer than Northern White Ash, the wood used for Smoker WW and Smoker Dynalite oars. 

So, if the species of maple you're using is inherently a harder wood than expect a stiffer flex.


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## jerseyjeff (Apr 16, 2016)

Making oars is good therapy! I have some ash and basswood in the basement that I will be turning into a pair of oars, and some new paddles for my cherubs too. I tend to glass only the blades, and have not had a problem, most of my stuff is 8.5-9 feet. My favorite tool of all time making oars is the lee valley concave spokeshave https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...42-veritas-flat-round-and-concave-spokeshaves, sooooo nice. You can get the fiberglass sleeves here if you want them, FiberglassSleeves. and it will make it crazy stiff and strong. 
Maple is an interesting wood, it may be a bit heavier than some of the other species, but it is pretty. I learned via the buzz to get the oars lighter, and that has made me much happier. I have made ash/cedar, ash/cherry, homecreapo SPF (just to see if I could) and I am working on some ash/basswood this winter. I am really stoked about those because the basswood is surprisingly strong and whippy, but crazy light compared to ash. 
I also may or may not have cheated and got some giant roundover router bits to hog the shafts into round shapes...
I have been mainly making laminated shafts, and use either titebond III or west epoxy, and then 6 coats of spar varnish.
It is fun to build, and then there is something about pulling on a wood oar that is magical.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I don't think you will make them stiffer than Cataract or Sawyer glass shafts which IMHO are painfully stiff. Another big factor is the thinness of the shaft which has a big impact on flex, whether you sleeve with glass or not.

Weight is probably the only con for glassing the shaft. And since most of the shaft is balanced on the oarlock, shaft weight isn't that much of a penalty. Similar argument then goes for a maple shaft. Most of the weight is borne by the oarlock. More total inertia to swing, but it matters most out on the ends--the blade and handle. Counterweights are an answer to blades that are too heavy...so cut the blade weight, cut the counter weight, and cut the swing weight.

So I will say that maple blades are probably a bad idea because maple is dense and heavy. My favorite oars of all time are my first--and they're laminated doug fir with ash edges. The blades have been thinned twice and now are 1/4" thick at the edges. Also made them into square tops. My second favorite oars are a set I made for my buddy with square tops, Gilman grips, and cedar blades. The cedar is crazy light and with the square top and GG's for counter balance, they float in your hands.

Tagging onto jerseyjeff's comments, I think basswood would probably be a great blade wood--as are cedar and spruce.

The only downside to a light blade (either thin blades and/or lightweight woods) is that it's less durable when beating rocks. If you row shallow rivers, it's a compromise you have to take. If you row deep rivers, go light blades first last and always.

Do sleeve the shaft under the rope wraps so the oarlock doesn't crush the wood grain over time and make a weak spot. (and thanks to CBRob for that protip)

How's that for a long answer to a quick question? Sorry, I geek out on oars.


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## spw424 (Jan 19, 2016)

Thanks for the input, gives me a lot to think about.

I laminated two pieces of maple together and put a piece of rebar in the square top as a counter balance. Working on shaping the blades and getting them thinner I was planning on about 1/2” at the center and tapering to about 3/8”. Still have a ways to go.







Any suggestions on how to shape the handles? Or just start sanding?


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## jerseyjeff (Apr 16, 2016)

I had a crazy thought of adding a layer of carbon fiber tape between the outer laminations of the shaft, but so far I have really liked the flex of multiple layers of wood. MT4Runner is spot on about getting the sends light,, and thinning the blades. I think I may need to fire up the table saw and start cutting laminations for my next set of oars and paddles....


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Very cool, spw424. I really like your blades.
I like a 1.5" to 1.625" cylinder for handles


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## spw424 (Jan 19, 2016)

What’s the weight of the oar you all have made? And lengths?


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Friend has a pair of solid maple oars he's run for almost 40 years. Bought from South Branch originally, stout beyond belief, 2" diameter started as 11 footers, he cut 'em down (handle and blade) to 10 and hair over half - about 10'7.'' They are heavy as hell but swing well, running 'em on an older Riken Hualapai probably 82 inches between 'locks. I've rowed 'em and they are not as bendy as Smokers but nowhere near as fragile, either. No glass on 'em, rope-wrapped and no crushed grain after thousands of miles.


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## jerseyjeff (Apr 16, 2016)

All, I am making oars for superpumas/ culebra and shredder sized boats, and I have it all seems to end up around 8 foot 5 to 8 foot 7. My average oar weight ranges the pairs are all matched, I have some 4.25 lb ash/cedar, and some 4.75 ash/cherry, and a pair of SPF oars just because at around 4 even. I got all fired up with this thread and started some ash, basswood oars, and holy cow, I think my unshaped blanks may already be lighter than some of the oars. I am really excited to get them laminated and shaped. The basswood is crazy light for its strength, and as long as it is not the final layer (the part that hits the rocks) I think it could be the ticket!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

10’ Doug fir square tops and mostly around 8#

7# without the square top.


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## Montet202 (Aug 22, 2020)

Look up how to make and use a spar guage for marking and shaping the shafts. Super easy. I like a 4.5" grinder for rough blade shaping, then foam blocks with sandpaper of progressing grits for shaping. A good block plane, Jack plane, and spoke shave are certainly very handy. These are glassed in a sleeve and have a great flex to them. Maple and mahogany with about 13 coats of Epiphanes after glassing and flowcoating a few coats of epoxy. They are extremely strong.


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## Montet202 (Aug 22, 2020)

Also look up how to make and use a serving mallet for rope wrapping. Makes life much easier and keeps that wrap TIGHT.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Montet202 said:


> Look up how to make and use a spar guage for marking and shaping the shafts. Super easy. I like a 4.5" grinder for rough blade shaping, then foam blocks with sandpaper of progressing grits for shaping. A good block plane, Jack plane, and spoke shave are certainly very handy. These are glassed in a sleeve and have a great flex to them. Maple and mahogany with about 13 coats of Epiphanes after glassing and flowcoating a few coats of epoxy. They are extremely strong.


Those are stunning.
I don't do that many coats of spar, they inevitably get scratched. But I go for an annual or biannual scuff sand and re-coat.


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## Montet202 (Aug 22, 2020)

MT4Runner said:


> Those are stunning.
> I don't do that many coats of spar, they inevitably get scratched. But I go for an annual or biannual scuff sand and re-coat.


Only that many initially. It's amazing the difference between 6 and 12. I shoot for 12, but if I'm nearing the bottom of the can, I go til I'm out.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

Montet202 said:


> Look up how to make and use a spar guage for marking and shaping the shafts. Super easy. I like a 4.5" grinder for rough blade shaping, then foam blocks with sandpaper of progressing grits for shaping. A good block plane, Jack plane, and spoke shave are certainly very handy. These are glassed in a sleeve and have a great flex to them. Maple and mahogany with about 13 coats of Epiphanes after glassing and flowcoating a few coats of epoxy. They are extremely strong.
> View attachment 69750
> 
> View attachment 69749


Holly crap those are beautiful, they should be hanging on my wall!!! Not dunking in a river. Love the design using different wood on the blades.


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