# Simple Z-drag



## jonny water (Oct 28, 2003)

Some good information on this link but scroll to the bottom of the page and look at the diagram of the Z-drag. It is a very simple version of the Z-drag for all of you who have wondered what it is but were afraid to ask. There are many versions of this technique but this is the absolute basic idea.
http://cucc2.co.uk/guide/rescues.htm


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

Even more simple- in a pinch, you can clip back through the biner on the boat (or pinned object) instead of a knot with biner hanging half way, if you have access to it.

So instead of boat -> anchor on land -> biner on knot on the rope -> pull

You can do boat biner-> anchor -> back to boat biner -> pull

given a distance that works with the amount of rope needed, and access to the boat.

Sorry if that confuses things, I'll try to see if I can post a drawing of what I am talking about.


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

3rd grader version of simple very dirty Z-drag

http://www.mountainbuzz.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=909

Can be done carrying 1 rope (if short enough distance) 2 biners, and some sort of webbing or something to attach around anchor.

Ideally, you would have prussics, pulleys, spectra rope, extra ropes to add more mechanical advantage systems, extra biners, and so on, however you can still work without all of this.

Be careful with non-locking biners which can be an entrapment hazard.

-d


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## PhilBob (Jun 30, 2005)

Both of those are extremely basic z-drags, but show the principle well.

When using biners instead of pulleys some of the mechanical advantage is lost to friction.

I prefer to use prussiks so you can pull as far as needed, sliding the prussiks up the rope and pulling again.

I also prefer to use another pulley at the anchor so the pulling can be done parallel to the river instead of perpendicular to it.

The set-ups shown also have no braking device, to hold the line where you pulled it to. A figure "8" device is typically used on the anchor to perform braking via a second rope and prussik.

The "Z" can be repeated for even more pulling power, say for a wrapped raft.

Always stay on the upstream side of any rope!
A come-a-long is also a handy ay to unwrap a boat, although a bit heavy for a kayak, but easily carried on a raft.

A z-drag can also be use for getting a vehicle unstuck, dont ask me how I know this .


Philbob.


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

Exactly, as I said, there are lots of ways to improve on the system by adding complexity. The basic principles remain the same. As Philbob mentioned, pullys can improve the effectiveness. The diagram I drew is to show that even if you are kayaking with the most minimal amount of rescue equipment, you can still make a Z drag. Also just to show what a Z-drag is to begin with.

In addition to automobiles, they work great for other applications. I've used one for raising and lowering a folded 120lb raft up to a 3rd story deck where I stored it that didn't have stairs. I'm sure there are mountaineering applications as well, but I'm not knowledgable on the subject.

Anyways, if you want to learn all the options (prussics, pulleys, 7:1 systems, and so on) for mechanical advantage systems, take a swiftwater rescue training course, and you'll learn all the details.


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## JCKeck1 (Oct 28, 2003)

I just had to mention that you are all underestimating the difference between pulleys vs plain biners. A 3:1 Z-drag is essentially rendered completely ineffective if you're just using biners and not pulleys. Biners with narrow angles cause an enormous amount of friction. You'd be better off boyscouting it off with 10 buddies. Moral: Invest in a real pin kit as a christmas present for all those that you kayak with. It'll run you about 30 bucks - well spent.
joe


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

If you don't have pulleys, you can also use double 'biners at each point to reduce the amount of friction of the sharp angles JC is talking about. Still not as good a pully, but better than single 'biner.


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

or pick up petzl micro pulleys, which turn an oval biner into a pulley. No bearings, but a damn site better than just a biner.


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## BKC (Apr 18, 2004)

I agree. A pin kit is essential in your boat as well as having a back up kit.

Here is a biner that can function like a pulley:
http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/...40821/level3_id/0/level1_id/0/level2_id/0/N/0

Here are some pulley's that have worked really well for me in the past. And at $12 a piece, get 'ur self some.
http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/...15050/level3_id/0/level1_id/0/level2_id/0/N/0


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## basil (Nov 20, 2005)

Yea, the simple picture of the Z-drag gives you the basics, but *in practice you rarely can use that set up*.

The problem with that simple picture is that the boat is close to shore. Normally the boat is in the middle of the creek/river. This leads to two problems: getting a pully hooked up to the boat and having enough rope to reach the boat and back. 

In a normal situation, where the boat is in a current, it's hard to attach just one line to the boat and nearly impossible to get that second line in the biner on the boat. 

Once you get one line to the boat, you take it to land. It's much easier then to set up the Z-drag by not going back to the boat, but setting up the second pulley by using a prusick cord on the rope to the boat.


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

Agreed.

That 'biner with the built in pully is pretty cool! Thanks for the link!


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

also, tiblocs are great, light, tiny, and don't tangle. A prussik might perhaps be more versatile, but the tiblocs are FAST to deploy in these rope rescues. They are also easier when adjusting the floating pulley that is out on the tensioned line. 

A complete minimalist pin kit could look something like this: 

3 of those pulley/biner combo biners 
2 tiblocs 
15' piece of tubular webbing 

that's pretty damn compact and light. 

I've had to unwrap a raft, 2 hardshells and four IKs in the last year or so. In the majority of cases, it's extremely helpful to have a brake prusik/tibloc on the system. And I agree you can rarely double back all the way out ot the boat. I carry 70' of spectra, and it's been within 10' of too short at least twice.


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## WhiteLightning (Apr 21, 2004)

Will tibloc damage ropes?


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## Yonder_River (Feb 6, 2004)

No, they're used in climbing all the time and meant to be used on ropes.


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

the tibloc teeth can do some damage. Personally, I replace my load-bearing rope every 2 to 3 years, and within that time, I've not had a problem with tiblocs significantly damaging the rope. The damage can be limited by how you use them. From what I've been told in SWR courses, ANY rope that will carry a load should be replaced at that interval, even if you've never loaded it. This is due to UV or water damage. Sand can get in the rope and abraid the rope internally. How many z-rigs will you set in two or three years? How much damage can you do with a tibloc in that amount of time? I mean, it's not like your using it as an ascender every weekend, ya know?

When I retire a rope from active load duty, it usually becomes a tarp line or raft bow line or something like that. Throw rope if it's the right size, or junk rope for steep hike-ins where lowering boats by rope. 

Tiblocs are smaller and faster than prussiks, and don't create a possible entrapment issue. We recently had an IK pin in a 6-foot ledge, and it was an interesting situation. The paddler was partially under the curtain, being held in his boat by both thighstraps and the force of the water. We needed the rope system and we needed it fast. Tiblocs are instant -- prusiks have the be dressed and tensioned properly, and loosened and redressed when moving them on the rope. I'd guess using tiblocs got us to the paddler at least a minute faster than prusiks.

That said, I usually carry 6-8 prusiks on multiday trips because they are so versatile when rigging tarps. 

But for speed, nothing beats the tibloc. And you don't have to worry about abrasion/weakening issues since of the prusiks themselves, or whether you have the right diameter prusik cord for that 1/4, 3/8 or 11mm rope that someone is carrying.

just my $0.02. I hear I might be a gearhead ... ;-)


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## Doug Poudre (Aug 18, 2004)

As far as I've heard from rescue groups and classes, once a rope is used for a rescue, it's retired from use.


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