# Dry Box Suspension



## peak (Apr 7, 2006)

I think your best option is to get some tabs welded on...second best: use straps to make a cradle/sling...never tried the NRS mounts, sounds gimmicky.


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## Dave Frank (Oct 14, 2003)

You could get a drop bag like from dre.

The aluminum bent pieces from nrs work well, if they fit at all. I tried some to hold a cooler, but I remember something being goofy about them. Maybe you cant lower them to the depth I wanted?


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## h2obro (Apr 22, 2004)

Cam straps. Loop or otherwise. Easy adjustable and in and out in a flash. I would also still cam even in a drop bag just in case there is a catastrophic tear in the bag ya dont lose your spendy box. my 2 cents


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## the_dude (May 31, 2006)

use NRS straps to make a sling to cradle the dry box. use more NRS straps over the top of the box to hold it in place. works great and is a lot cheaper than the NRS cooler holder thingy.


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## AKATief (Mar 2, 2008)

I like the drop bags the most, leaves you some extra room to store little things (like empty beer cans.) There won't be any increased likelyhood of a catastophic fail because the load bearing portions of the bag are 1 inch cam straps. throw some loop straps over the top to hold it in.

Cam strap cradles work fine- you can buy "strap sliders" to attach to the strap. They will hold the strap in place- with part of the strap forming the cradle, and the other part wrapping around the top to secure the box. This allows you to access the box without dropping the cradle, and uses half the straps as other methods.

The metal drybox holders ( the one that attach to a strap) from NRS are great if you are going to be using the box as a seat. They prevent the box from rotating in the cradle, and keep it level.


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## Tiggy (May 17, 2004)

I would seriously look into having tabs welded on. You will be happy you did it.
The NRS angle aluminum is cool if you are supporting with straps, it makes keeping the d.box straight, that said, you COULD be creative and run straps through whatever angle metal you have available at the local hardware store.
I'm willing to bet that tabs could be welded on in less than an hour.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

I second the NRS aluminum slings if you are sitting on them especially for rowing, as you don't get the rotation that you encounter with regular webbing slings. These are especially good if you are using the Clavey flip seat bracket to rest on top of the dry box for a fisherperson up front. If not sitting on, go with the loop straps. I personnally do not like the tabs welded on because I have a small truck bed and loading all the coolers/boxes etc. the extra tab width f****s up my loading and gets snagged on stuff. If you have a big truck or trailer no problem though.

A welding shop will probably charge 0.5 hours to do the welding and maybe 1.0 hour if they have to cutt the tabs, etc. which will run you probably from $40-90 or so.


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## Matty (May 13, 2004)

I've used the NRS dry box hangers for years. They work great. Be aware that there is also an NRS cooler hanger. The dry box hangers are bent at right angles, the cooler ones are curved. I would be leery of using a drop bag with a drybox due to the sharp corners propensity to rub and cut the bag. Tabs are a great solution, but be sure of where you get them attached (can't move them). Cam straps are definitely the cheapest solution. I sure am happy with my NRS setup.


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## Perdido (Jan 13, 2009)

No drop bag for dryboxes. The sharp corners wear holes in them quickly. The weight is supported by 1" webbing so the box won't fall out of the boat but your trash will fall out of the holes made by the box's corners. A couple of loop straps and a trash bag are a better idea.

If you're sitting on the box use the alumnum NRS mounts or welded tabs. The only drawback to the NRS mounts is that one side is not adjustable for height. The other side is adjustable though so you can put the box in at an angle which is nice if you're rowing from it (the top front edge of the box doesn't dig into the back of your legs)

I've used the drop bags and they suck for dryboxes. I am currently using the NRS system and am very happy with it.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

the NRS mounts would be great, except they aren't adjustable at all. Now I use cam straps, and a board with the seat bolted on. Cam straps to hold that in place also hold the cooler in the chosen position so it doesn't tilt.


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## Osprey (May 26, 2006)

Another vote for the nrs. I use them for my drybox and cooler and they are rock solid. For whatever reason, they just happen to be the perfect depth for my boat though. I believe they came out with a new version this year that is now adjustable on both sides. Check the site.


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## teletoes (Apr 16, 2005)

I’ve been using two 9’ straps slung underneath and 4’ loopers on top without problems. Works well and cheep.

I might be a leery of doing in on a cat rig though. One failure of a bottom strap would plop your box right in the river. Maybe put backup straps around the handles?

The NRS sliders drive me crazy. I’ve never had the patience to get all four of them aligned just right.


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## mttodd (Jan 29, 2009)

Tabs are the best long term solution and the most hassle free. Rock solid, no adjustments, no straps to wear out. Should not cost you any more than the NRS setup. Make sure the shop of your choice uses a TIG machine to weld them on , no MIG (wire feed) 1.5" angle aluminum x 1/8 thick x 4" long each.


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## wayniac (Mar 31, 2007)

*suspending dry box- different approach*



Joe W said:


> I am looking for some suggestions on suspending a dry box from my frame. The box does not have tabs; so resting it on the cross beams is not an options and I would prefer that the set be easy to add/remove for going from day trips to multi-day. May just go with the NRS mounts if no better ideas come my way. It is an NRS cat frame.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


When considering any system- and assuming you have an inflatable floor, if you are running one or more dry boxes, you may want to set the tabs (or set the straps) to allow for the floor to take some of the weight off the tubes. You blow up the boat and floor to do the final setting. Makes the load run lower and makes the floor do what it's supposed to- help with the load- not just get rid of excess water. And yes, if you do happen to run over a large rock in the river you may stand to punch a hole in the floor. Avoid runing over large rocks sticking out of the river. I've run a 16' round nose boat this way loaded with 2 dryboxes and 1 very large cooler rigged this way and it still spun on a dime in the big stuff. A boatman I know that was in the business for around 3 decades (who will remain nameless at this point) insisted on this setup. Another reason why, when a raft is rigged this way, it really outperforms a cat for hauling gear- unless the cat boat is ridicuously big. And nothing against cats- I own three of them too.
wayne


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

wayniac said:


> When considering any system- and assuming you have an inflatable floor, if you are running one or more dry boxes, you may want to set the tabs (or set the straps) to allow for the floor to take some of the weight off the tubes. You blow up the boat and floor to do the final setting. Makes the load run lower and makes the floor do what it's supposed to- help with the load- not just get rid of excess water. And yes, if you do happen to run over a large rock in the river you may stand to punch a hole in the floor. Avoid runing over large rocks sticking out of the river. I've run a 16' round nose boat this way loaded with 2 dryboxes and 1 very large cooler rigged this way and it still spun on a dime in the big stuff. A boatman I know that was in the business for around 3 decades (who will remain nameless at this point) insisted on this setup. Another reason why, when a raft is rigged this way, it really outperforms a cat for hauling gear- unless the cat boat is ridicuously big. And nothing against cats- I own three of them too.
> wayne


As you might expect people to respond, that sounds odd. Aside from the potential for holes, doesn't it just deform the floor and inhibit it's designed position in the water, for proper tracking and maneuvering? I don't think boat's are designed to perform with the floor carrying weight at all, but I could be wrong, I've never actually talked to any mfg's about it, just other boaters. With so little volume and flotation in the floor compared to the tubes, I don't see how the floor would support it enough that it would take the weight off the tubes, unless it pushed down into the water, hence my deform comment.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

Although they don't put dryboxes on the floor, apparently Alaska guides for fly in trips are stacking lots of dry bags/gear right on the floor without suspending, primarily I think to make it easier to break everything down for a portage (less rigging). see the alaska outdoor forum for rafting. And after a float hunt for moose, putting a whole dressed out moose right in the boat.
Shapp


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

shappattack said:


> Although they don't put dryboxes on the floor, apparently Alaska guides for fly in trips are stacking lots of dry bags/gear right on the floor without suspending, primarily I think to make it easier to break everything down for a portage (less rigging). see the alaska outdoor forum for rafting. And after a float hunt for moose, putting a whole dressed out moose right in the boat.
> Shapp


Do they get enough light up there for proper brain function? I've heard not. :-D Seriously, their agenda is a bit different, isn't the boat more of a vehicle for them, different from most of us who are focusing on the boating? Hucking a moose in the boat seems to point in that direction, boating is not the goal, it's just the getting there. And, they're hunters, they have blood on their minds, not whitewater! Just joking, it's fun to tease hunters, some of my best friends are such, not that there's anything wrong with it! And Alaskan hunters, well they are just OUT there!


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## mttodd (Jan 29, 2009)

Rigging your dry box to rest on the floor is a bad idea at best. The floor will rub on it, if it is secured to the frame, and any debri washed in between, sand, mud, beer cans will quickly abrade/shred the floor. If the box is not secured to the frame it merely shoves itself skyward with every wave you hit. Not to mention the rocks you not hitting on purpose tearing holes in the floor. I've moved the tabs down on several boater's boxes to alleviate this problem. Joe W, I understand you have a cat and this is not an issue, but I think a lot of rafters read this thread as well. Go with the tabs, or side tabs, with links in between cross bars (cam locks not installed yet in photo). I think the side tabs/handles I used came from blackfoot. 1 1/2" square tube links.


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## Wirednoodle (Feb 10, 2009)

I was just in Andy and Bax's in Portland, OR. They had a really nice setup for drybox suspension and securing. They add tabs to the side and then use drybox style twist clamps to secure it. I thought it was pretty slick at the time, but of course didn't think about getting pictures until after the fact.

It is way better than the NRS set up, doesn't rest on the bottom, allows full access to the box, and looks very clean.

Might want to check em out.



Joe W said:


> I am looking for some suggestions on suspending a dry box from my frame. The box does not have tabs; so resting it on the cross beams is not an options and I would prefer that the set be easy to add/remove for going from day trips to multi-day. May just go with the NRS mounts if no better ideas come my way. It is an NRS cat frame.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


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## wayniac (Mar 31, 2007)

mttodd said:


> Rigging your dry box to rest on the floor is a bad idea at best. The floor will rub on it, if it is secured to the frame, and any debri washed in between, sand, mud, beer cans will quickly abrade/shred the floor. If the box is not secured to the frame it merely shoves itself skyward with every wave you hit. Not to mention the rocks you not hitting on purpose tearing holes in the floor. I've moved the tabs down on several boater's boxes to alleviate this problem. Joe W, I understand you have a cat and this is not an issue, but I think a lot of rafters read this thread as well. Go with the tabs, or side tabs, with links in between cross bars (cam locks not installed yet in photo). I think the side tabs/handles I used came from blackfoot. 1 1/2" square tube links.


First let me say right off that I actually own 8 boats- I have a 23 year old Achilles that I converted from a bucket boat years ago. The boxes are secured so that they are secured on the frame- so they don't 'go skyward'. And I mentioned the issue with the rocks already. As for shredding the fabric, the boater I run with has around 3,000 river miles and his current boat is a 94 vintage- and it simply has not been an issue.But it's clear that this approach is well outside of how most boaters believe a boat should be rigged, and that's OK with me. Until you have loaded a boat this way and actually tried it, I don't blame you if it doesn't seem to make sense. 
\boat safe
wayne


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## HPMG (Nov 2, 2008)

Looks like NRS just came out with some "adjustable" cooler and dry box mounts.


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## riverdoghenry (Nov 18, 2008)

*Thoughts*

My old boxes had hangers, but I want to wait to get them on my new boxes. This is because I want to play with the height a little for overall fit with oars, stands, and etc. Then I'll probably weld them on or be lazy and stick with the straps for awhile. I'll use some cam straps to play with.

I may just us these NRS metal Strap Slides. They're simple, cheap, and bomber once adjusted.

I'm lightly considering these new adjustable box mounts (pic below). First, I don't need the straps, I have too many straps shoved away everywhere. This means I would be paying just for the metal. $130 is a lot of money to hang a couple boxes with some simple bent flat metal. It seems like I could get these made local (custom) for less or cut them from some metal/plastic box for pennies on the dollar. Any Homebrew thoughts?

Second, now that they're adjustable does it defeat their purpose, because the metal is no longer hooked and hanging from the frame as are the fixed height mounts?


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## Wirednoodle (Feb 10, 2009)

riverdoghenry said:


> My old boxes had hangers, but I want to wait to get them on my new boxes. This is because I want to play with the height a little for overall fit with oars, stands, and etc. Then I'll probably weld them on or be lazy and stick with the straps for awhile. I'll use some cam straps to play with.
> 
> I may just us these NRS metal Strap Slides. They're simple, cheap, and bomber once adjusted.
> 
> ...



Just about anything would do I would imagine. What comes to mind is an ammo can. I would bet that $25 would get a guy with a plasma torch (or even acetylene) to cut them out in a jiffy. 

If not then a jig saw with a metal blade and a drill would do it. Drill each end of the slots, then cut out in between. Then cut all four of the brackets out. Easier to do the slots while on the can I would think.

Just suggesting ammo cans as I just bought a few for $10 each. 

Finish with a bit of rattlecan enamel and presto!

How's that homebrew?


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## tbmc (Apr 25, 2009)

*Make sure to put a good coat of paint on metal*



Wirednoodle said:


> Just about anything would do I would imagine. What comes to mind is an ammo can. I would bet that $25 would get a guy with a plasma torch (or even acetylene) to cut them out in a jiffy.
> 
> If not then a jig saw with a metal blade and a drill would do it. Drill each end of the slots, then cut out in between. Then cut all four of the brackets out. Easier to do the slots while on the can I would think.
> 
> ...



You may want to make sure to but a few thick coats of paint on the metal used (if not stainless or aluminum) The metal over time will react with the aluminum of the drybox causing corrosion the aluminum being the weaker of the two metals will be the first to get holes in it.


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