# Plugging drain holes



## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

I got a crazy deal on an almost brand new 3.5hp 4 stroke mercury outboard, and since the only thing I own that floats and can fit me is my minimax... here we are. I made a temporary wood transom that works surprisingly well. But I'm building a transom to attach to my frame for a more permanent solution. 

Anyway, it moves this raft around really well, but with no weight on the bow I can fill back half of the raft with water through the drain holes in about 30 seconds. So I'm looking for a smart way to temporarily plug the drain holes while under power. Duct tape rips off.

I'm just looking to do some fishing and putzing around on lakes in Montana. Has anyone figured out a solution to temporarily plug the drain holes well? Thanks!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Your best bet is to find a small rowboat to mount your motor on.


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Make a cob so you can drive from more towards the middle of your boat. Just cut a couple strips of fabric - repair material - to put over the scuppers (drain holes). You will never be able to completely stop the water entering a self-filler.
Or buy a real boat - what some folks here derisively refer to as a "bucket boat." They handle better and row & motor faster than any self-filler (as long as you keep the water off the floor...).


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## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

No. have a 11' aluminum row boat. They aren't safe to use on the bodies of water around here. One big boat driving by can swamp those 12" gunnels and then you're swimming while your boat sinks. Or one crazy movement from a dog while I'm leaning over the side netting a fish. Sunk. The advantages of an inflatable, not to mention one I already have, are obvious. Productive responses only please.


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## dsrtrat (May 29, 2011)

Haven't tried this but a possible solution would be to use 1 or 1 1/2 or possibly 2 inch wide webbing threaded through the drain holes on the outside in a couple places and knotted on the inside to keep it in place. You could pick how many holes you covered easily.You might need a way to tension it some way or weave it in and out in a couple of places to keep it in place. Worth a try and cheap if it doesn't work.


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## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

B4otter said:


> Make a cob so you can drive from more towards the middle of your boat. Just cut a couple strips of fabric - repair material - to put over the scuppers (drain holes). You will never be able to completely stop the water entering a self-filler.
> Or buy a real boat - what some folks here derisively refer to as a "bucket boat." They handle better and row & motor faster than any self-filler (as long as you keep the water off the floor...).


Thanks for the advice. I have a real boat that i keep in the Florida Keys for fishing. It's not worth bringing to MT to dink around a lake. This engine on the raft isn't for doing serious things, I'm just trying to get out on the lake to swim, toss a line, shoot a duck. I'm not expecting performance out of this thing, just trying to keep my feet dry while using it.


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## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

dsrtrat said:


> Haven't tried this but a possible solution would be to use 1 or 1 1/2 or possibly 2 inch wide webbing threaded through the drain holes on the outside in a couple places and knotted on the inside to keep it in place. You could pick how many holes you covered easily.You might need a way to tension it some way or weave it in and out in a couple of places to keep it in place. Worth a try and cheap if it doesn't work.


That's an awesome idea, I'm trying it. Thanks!


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Melbatoaste said:


> The advantages of an inflatable, not to mention one I already have, are obvious. Productive responses only please.


Sheesh. Montanans used to be known for being friendly. Maybe that's how people talk to each other in Florida?
You asked for advice on the internet. Fortunately you didn't get any actual troll responses.
You did get advice that you don't agree with. That does not make it unproductive. It just does not fit your desired confirmation bias.
Do you want people to tell you that you're smart, you're pretty, and that you have the best ideaz evar?
Or do you want real advice, even if it's not what you'd hope to hear?


If that Hyside had a lace-in floor like an Aire or Maravia, I'd suggest opening the lacing in back and dropping the motor into the hole (not unlike a Grand Canyon S-rig)...but since the floor is glued in, that's not an option. 

If you look at rigid-hulled inflatable boats, the side tubes extend past the motor in the rear to support the motor. Maybe you could pull your thwarts, lash them parallel to your side tubes to a wider transom board, and give yourself more flotation in the rear?

Or put in a beaver board to stand on. Self-bailers are by their nature not 100% dry....they just don't stay filled with water like a bucket boat.


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## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

MT4Runner said:


> Sheesh. Montanans used to be known for being friendly. Maybe that's how people talk to each other in Florida?
> You asked for advice on the internet. Fortunately you didn't get any actual troll responses.
> You did get advice that you don't agree with. That does not make it unproductive. It just does not fit your desired confirmation bias.
> Do you want people to tell you that you're smart, you're pretty, and that you have the best ideaz evar?
> ...


Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like a dick. I've been swamped many times in small aluminum boats, and it is not a fun experience. 
I know I'm polishing a turd with this idea, so I'm not looking for perfection. Thwarts rigged as pontoons is a neat idea, I'll try some things and see how it feels. Thanks!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Window screen coated with a flex seal?


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

Add ballast to the front? Get yourself a corn-fed woman up there.


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

Unless you completely seal them, pressure will overcome hole size quickly. Looks like you're about a 200# dude with 50# of motor on the very back of a little boat. That's a lot of pressure. Maybe try some thick flat rubber on the outside with webbing through slits tied around pool noodle on the inside. Really, some type of rubber stopper in each hole from the outside would be the best option. Seems like a lot of holes though.

Given what you're trying to do with a boat that probably won't do it, I'd go with a way bigger motor and get on plane quick.


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## Andy H. (Oct 13, 2003)

Melbatoaste said:


> Productive responses only please.


I'd say he gave you a productive response. You're trying to use a boat designed for rowing on whitewater rivers for navigating under motor power on lakes. Two very different applications.


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## Melbatoaste (Oct 16, 2017)

Thanks for everyone's responses. With my cooler up front on the frame loaded with beer,or 2 people, it works much better. I like the 1" strap weaved through the hole idea. That way water can still go in and out, but it's slowed down. There's 17 1" drain holes in each side. I have also considered using 1" dowels to plug the holes, mounted between 2 1"x2" boards. Kinda sandwiching the holes between the 2 boards with the dowels running through the holes.

I wish flex seal wasn't so damned permanent!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Here is another outside the box idea...... How about a Jack's Plastic custom fit boat cover and put it on upside down. 🚣‍♀️


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## TboneCooper (Jul 8, 2019)

Crazy idea... what if you laced in a thwart or two under the back of the boat?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Melbatoaste said:


> Thanks for everyone's responses. With my cooler up front on the frame loaded with beer,or 2 people, it works much better. I like the 1" strap weaved through the hole idea. That way water can still go in and out, but it's slowed down. There's 17 1" drain holes in each side. I have also considered using 1" dowels to plug the holes, mounted between 2 1"x2" boards. Kinda sandwiching the holes between the 2 boards with the dowels running through the holes.
> 
> I wish flex seal wasn't so damned permanent!


Even the wide strap will slow the water--your feet will get wet, but you'll get a lot less splashing.


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## phumpher (Oct 13, 2004)

sounds like you need a bunch of these
The Clamseal by Barton Marine


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

phumpher said:


> sounds like you need a bunch of these
> The Clamseal by Barton Marine


That's funny, we used a very simular product in open water survival training, only they were metal with rubber gaskets and wing nuts to squeeze them together. You could use the same technique with a large diameter washer, top and bottom, with a small hole with a short screw and a crowned nut on the top to squeeze them together, trapping the flooring material between them.


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## jeffro (Oct 13, 2003)

McMaster-Carr


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

phumpher said:


> sounds like you need a bunch of these
> The Clamseal by Barton Marine


That's a good idea--could seal them all and turn the boat into a bucket boat.


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## raymo (Aug 10, 2008)

phumpher said:


> sounds like you need a bunch of these
> The Clamseal by Barton Marine


Actually, it would not be a bad idea to throw a couple of those in your repair kit for a quick fix.


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## theBoatPeople (Jun 19, 2012)

Melbatoaste said:


> I got a crazy deal on an almost brand new 3.5hp 4 stroke mercury outboard, and since the only thing I own that floats and can fit me is my minimax... here we are. I made a temporary wood transom that works surprisingly well. But I'm building a transom to attach to my frame for a more permanent solution.
> 
> Anyway, it moves this raft around really well, but with no weight on the bow I can fill back half of the raft with water through the drain holes in about 30 seconds. So I'm looking for a smart way to temporarily plug the drain holes while under power. Duct tape rips off.
> 
> ...


I think the problem is the type of duct tape you are using. If you can find "100 mph tape" (an olive-greenish color, comes in 2" and 4" widths) at a military surplus supplier, it will hold. You can put it on both sides. The thing is, much past two weeks it will be very difficult to remove and may leave a mess on the floor.


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## Hendu13 (Sep 13, 2017)

What about using large washers and bolts to sandwhich around the material i know it would be time consuming but it wouldn't be permanent, and maybe only do them half way from the middle to the stern


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## chutney (Jun 1, 2012)

Tear-aid


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## colorado jim (Jul 2, 2012)

take some pool noodles than cut one half into round plugs. Next idea: scupper plugs. Last idea high side.

Btw I take my 13; hyside out on lakes with a motor. I would agree it's very stable.


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