# effing bent oars



## deeznutz (Jun 22, 2014)

I bought three mountain driftboat wooden oars with carbon blades from some guy off CL in Medford a couple of years back. When I got the box I noticed the spare had a decent bow in it and it was labeled "spare". What I didn't notice was that one of the others had a slight bow in it as well. Anyway, after two years of no water, I finally took them out on an overnighter for the first time last weekend and sure enough they rowed like crap. The one with the slight bend created a constant flutter on each stroke resulting in an awful pair of blisters in my left palm by the end of the trip. I don't think the "spare" is ever river worthy. Anyway, I feel as though I got the wool pulled over my eyes with this purchase and wasted $480. Well I guess I have one usable oar for $480. 

I called Mountain Driftboat and talked with an employee and he said that they are trash because someone probably left them tied to a boat all season and they were exposed to heat and warped. He didn't think that they could be re-bent, but said it couldn't hurt to try.

Has anyone ever tried to remedy a bent oar with any results?
I stored the oars vertically in my dry temperate garage since I purchased them. I emailed the guy but haven't heard from him and don't really expect to. I would never sell these to anyone without disclosing the fact that they totally suck and you should never use them. If I don't hear back from him soon I will put his name up and see if any of ya'll know him. 

Seems like a pretty small community here to be pulling shit like this and thinking that there would be no backlash. 

See if you can find the straight one in the pics

Thanks 

-Tom


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## dirtbagkayaker (Oct 29, 2008)

Bought two + years ago on CL, That's what I'd expect used for sure. At that time frame I don't think that you can prove that you didn't miss treat the sticks. You might have a bitch if it were a week, but come on... Even if you post up the sellers name, I still think this is your fault and you can't convince me that something didn't happen in your position. Who misses badly bent sticks??? 

I think there is a lesson to be learned and its "Buyer beware!" 

But, If they bent once they will bend again. Get some weight and see want can be done in the hot sun over time. Can't hurt if you plan on not selling. Also my Carlisle's are bent to shit and I still use them regularly. If fluttering is an issue then you could tune the blades with a file to get a better stoke. Maybe wear gloves. Just some ideas. Good luck.


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## deeznutz (Jun 22, 2014)

Yeah, I guess I could have been a better consumer and griped about it upon arrival.
I should preface this whole story with the fact that I just got into rafting in the last few years after a long ugly breakup with class V kayaking. These were the first oars I had ever bought. I agree with you that its probably too much water under the bridge to slander his name on the board, and I wont. I'm certain that I had them stored properly and didn't ever use them until last weekend though. Anyway.......waaaaaaaaaaahhhh
Live and learn. I probably need some beefier oars anyway that I can wail on. I will try and tweak them a bit. Thanks for the input Dirtbagkayaker(love the name)


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

You say check the photo. I see no photo.


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## deeznutz (Jun 22, 2014)

*photos*


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## Riverman4utoday (Jun 21, 2013)

Best of luck trying to straighten these out. What I will tell you is that wood oars hanging on the side of a raft is NOT going to warp them like this since they are normally strapped on in 2 places with no real weight on them. These were more than likely manufactured this way or possibly were leaning against a wall for a very very very long time. It is quite possible that the guy bought them like this and then sold them to you as-is once he realized that his "deal" was not really a "deal" at all.

Also...these are way better oars for a drift boat than a raft. These are similar to the Sawyer Shoal Cut Square Tops which are a shallow water blade, which is what these are.


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## Learch (Jul 12, 2010)

Riverman4utoday said:


> Best of luck trying to straighten these out. What I will tell you is that wood oars hanging on the side of a raft is NOT going to warp them like this since they are normally strapped on in 2 places with no real weight on them. These were more than likely manufactured this way or possibly were leaning against a wall for a very very very long time. It is quite possible that the guy bought them like this and then sold them to you as-is once he realized that his "deal" was not really a "deal" at all.
> 
> Also...these are way better oars for a drift boat than a raft. These are similar to the Sawyer Shoal Cut Square Tops which are a shallow water blade, which is what these are.


No more Sawyer for you? Are they gonna make it or not? I was at the OWA meeting spoke at last year.


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## GreenWall (Oct 20, 2015)

I was even there too!


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## curtis catman (Sep 29, 2015)

Sand the finish off of the bent part. Steam and straighten the secure them in place. Refinish, you are not going to hurt em.


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## tmacc (Sep 6, 2009)

That was my first thought, CC. Here's a site and there are a ton more if you google it.

How to make a steambox for bending wood

After steaming for a time, I'd set up a couple of v-blocks on a work bench to support the ends of the round shaft and then take a Quickgrip type of clamp and and a short block of wood and clamp the oar slightly past the straight point till it drys. You may have to play around with the time in the steam box. Good luck.


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## RASIL (Jan 18, 2010)

If stripped of finish steam 10 minutes per inch. 


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz


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## tmacc (Sep 6, 2009)

"After steaming for a time, I'd set up a couple of v-blocks on a work bench to support the ends of the round shaft and then take a Quickgrip type of clamp and and a short block of wood and clamp the oar slightly past the straight point till it drys"

Well, after reading what I posted, I realized it might not be very clear as to what I was suggesting. I should have posted to place the v-blocks along the edge of the work bench. Then, with the oar positioned so the high point of the oar shaft is up, place the clamp so one end is under the work bench and the other end (with the block of wood to distribute the load) on top of the shaft to force the oar shaft down to straighten it out.

I'd let it dry for quite a while. Even if the surface looks dry, the interior will still be saturated.


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## Riverman4utoday (Jun 21, 2013)

Learch said:


> No more Sawyer for you? Are they gonna make it or not? I was at the OWA meeting spoke at last year.


Learch....I left Sawyer in December to run a company in Grand Junction Colorado. I was not aware of the Chapter 11 proceedings until everyone else found out. My opinion is that they will definitely pull through and be a stronger company for it. Lot of bad debt from the Roguewood fiasco in 2015, which is the main cause of what is happening now. I wish them them the best of luck(as does everyone I hope) and if there is anything that I can do to help them, you know I will be there to support them! 

Ps....the OWA meeting was fun time, really enjoyed meeting everyone!


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## briandburns (Jan 12, 2010)

deeznutz said:


> View attachment 11088
> View attachment 11089


Maybe it's just the camera angle, but it looks like your oar stops are too close to the handle end for decent leverage. 
Closer to 1/3 of the oar length from the grip end for the stop location might prove to be more comfortable for you.
Good luck with it anyway.


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