# oar lock difference? versus



## wildfireone (May 8, 2017)

I bought these Pro-Loks last year and love them. You can stand up to scout and line up, all while feathering, then drop in, plop down, lock them in, and pull, push. I had my open oar lock set as a back up for my spare oars last year, but I'll probably order what I need from the guy for this upcoming season. Oh yea for fishing you just spin the blades over 180 and there's no oar right.

I have them on my 18ft. "day" cat with 11' oars, but I would not hesitate to put them on any my other boats.


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## FlyingDutchman (Mar 25, 2014)

Out of the three (Superston, Cobra, Recretec) the Cobra is probably the top dog. 

Cobras: best range of motion, can “tune” the lock to your specific oar shaft and comfort, used by many. Good for fishing and whitewater. Cons, may need to “retune” , may pop in heavy water ( better than breaking an oar). If you are running technical rivers and doing lots of boating, Cobras

Superston: typical range of motion, less likely to pop an oar, no tuning. Probably best for heavy loads , like 12 passengers and a stern mount frame on the snake. 

Recretec: best price. Pretty standard all around lock. Probably good for most purposes. 

In its own category:

Pro-Loks: all I have heard is good things. Best range of motion. Good smooth quiet operation. Best for fishing. I personally have not yet rowed with Pro Loks


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## Beer Waggin (Jul 8, 2016)

wildfireone said:


> I bought these Pro-Loks last year and love them. You can stand up to scout and line up, all while feathering, then drop in, plop down, lock them in, and pull, push. I had my open oar lock set as a back up for my spare oars last year, but I'll probably order what I need from the guy for this upcoming season. Oh yea for fishing you just spin the blades over 180 and there's no oar right.
> 
> I have them on my 18ft. "day" cat with 11' oars, but I would not hesitate to put them on any my other boats.


Interested to know how the shrink wrap worked on your cataracts... I have pro loks and love the system, just not sold on the oars just yet. Switching back to normal locks when you need to is kind of a PIA.


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## wildfireone (May 8, 2017)

Beer Waggin said:


> Interested to know how the shrink wrap worked on your cataracts... I have pro loks and love the system, just not sold on the oars just yet. Switching back to normal locks when you need to is kind of a PIA.


I actually have a little tear the size of a dime in the shrink tube that happened on day one, so it might have been my fault in shrinking it on? It was really hot outside when I received the box in the mail, and one side shrink tube went on pretty tight, especially right where it was folded to get it in the shipping box. I also never lubed them up with Armor-all or the other recommend lubes, and I have a lot of days on them.

Last summer I was in Missoula and at the boat shop, "Trail Head" there was another brand of really similar locks (I cannot remember the Brand) and they did not have any shrink tube on the oars, so I don't know if you even need it, or if that was because it was a display set-up.

I have never actually had to switch to the spare oars (just knocked on the desk) - I carried spare oar locks before I had the Pro-Loks, just in case one got loose after a few pops, or something else happened.

I was out boating last summer and stopped by Sawyer at Gold Hill, OR to get some stuff we "needed" and was lusting after their composites with the smoker WW Pro blades. Pro-Lok makes oars too, you have probably seen them on his website.

Do you use Teathers?


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

I have shrink wraps on my cataracts and a pair of carlisle oars. They have great so far. No maintenance, no noise, and have been really tough... I have a set of pro locks on both of my boats, and would have a hard time going any other direction.

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## Beer Waggin (Jul 8, 2016)

I do use teathers.

I’m just not sold on the amount of flex the Pro Loks have. It’s amost like there is so much flex that the response time is slower because I’m waiting for the blades to catch up with my hands.


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## zcollier (Jan 1, 2004)

I've seen a couple of the NRS Superston oar locks break so I don't trust them. 

For whitewater, the Cobras are awesome but some people don't like them. I can't remember why - it was a silly reason. The standard "A" Oar Lock that Sawyer makes are tried and true:

OAR LOCKS

The real answer to your question is - Pins and Clips.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

zcollier said:


> The standard "A" Oar Lock that Sawyer makes are tried and true:
> 
> OAR LOCKS
> 
> The real answer to your question is - Pins and Clips.



I was wondering when this would surface.... :roll:



The cobras allow your oar to get "jammed" in between the tops of the lock instead of blowing out when you need it most, rope wrap accentuates that problem as it's compressible. If it blows out, you can hopefully finagle it back in, jammed is jammed and you're screwed. They do have great range of motion though. 



Rowed Pins and clips most of my 39 some odd years of rafting and love them 99.9% of the time. Nice to ALWAYS have your oar when you need it. What amazes me is how many folks use "Oar Wrongs" with opens, negating any benefit you get from open oarlocks. But then, different strokes and all. 



That being said, my Dory has hand cast opens, and for that boat with it's handmade oars (historic leather sleeve and stopper), they work well and are much heftier than anything you can purchase commercially. 



MT4runner who posts here told me he's looking to have his own design cast, which I'd most certainly get when he does, his design is stronger (and prettier) and having it custom cast assures you much higher quality control in the casting process than a mass produced item IMHO


My 2¢, your mileage may vary.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Beer Waggin said:


> Interested to know how the shrink wrap worked on your cataracts...



Used this on a set of Carlisle aluminum spares, worked like a dream


https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=81525&catid=593


Many colors, thick high quality plastic. Not cheap, but compared to new oars......


Planning on doing it to the 8 old cat shafts I have pre urethane coating, tried spar varnish, and while it works for a while, the shrink tubing would be a more permanent fix.


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## jamesthomas (Sep 12, 2010)

I think that pro-locks are the coolest thing out there. I personally haven't used a set but I run a gimbal design oar lock that works with sleeves or rope wrap. You wouldn't believe the the freedom of movement and smoothness. I'm sure pro-locks are even better than what I'm running but they are spendy especially when you add in the cost of the shrink wrap. One local shop owner that runs the same set up as me describes it as "power steering for your raft". I think that's a bit over the top but if you haven't tried a gimbal type oar lock you should. I guarantee you will love them.


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

MNichols said:


> The cobras allow your oar to get "jammed" in between the tops of the lock instead of blowing out when you need it most, rope wrap accentuates that problem as it's compressible. If it blows out, you can hopefully finagle it back in, jammed is jammed and you're screwed. They do have great range of motion though.


This is what finally drove me to retire open oarlocks. On an illinois lap, a buddy jammed an oar. The lock had the oar in what I call "the pinch of death" and we had to swap out oar and oarlock to get back on the water. 

This problem seems worst using the very stiff NRS atomic aluminum locks, in conjunction with the hard plastic Carlisle oar sleeves. I believe rope wrap would have had enough compression to escape the pinch of death. This is the only argument for rope wrap I've ever found.

In camp, I rigged a 12:1 and could not get the lock off the oar. When I finally got it off, at home, using two 1/2 ton pickups, the oarlock had crushed and splintered the new cataract oar shaft, through the oar sleeve! Whole oar was toast.

I now run old-style prolocks, and love them. I have yet to pop an oar, and they won't pop short of avoiding a catastrophic oar failure. 

I'll give ya a mulligan on pins and clips as a dory can legit be a period boat, and the old 3/4 galvy pipe + tire version of pins and clips is authentic river history. 

But for modern day rowing, blech! I absolutely the hate the feel of a blade stuck in position that doesn't follow my wrist movement. flatwater and wind? open locks. 

The biggest reason to avoid fixed blade rowing, though, is the wrist-flick that frees your blade from a strong, grabby current. I have seen boatmen launched out of the boat because they wouldn't let go of an oar, and could not extricate that blade from a back current. With free blades, just rotate the wrist and take the stroke you need.


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## zcollier (Jan 1, 2004)

slickhorn said:


> The biggest reason to avoid fixed blade rowing, though, is the wrist-flick that frees your blade from a strong, grabby current. I have seen boatmen launched out of the boat because they wouldn't let go of an oar, and could not extricate that blade from a back current. With free blades, just rotate the wrist and take the stroke you need.


Boaters that use pins and clips learn that when a blade is getting caught in a strong current you just push down on the handle and the blade comes out of the water.


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## GOTY2011 (Mar 18, 2018)

I have a set of both, StrongArm and Cobras, and each have their benefits. The StrongArm design is cleaner than the predecessor, very tight tolerances and simple to use. On carbon fiber shafts in cold weather, I experienced a little slippage (rotation of the shaft piece) with light rowing use. I'd attribute that to not wanting to compromise the shaft. I expect that to change over time. Great oar lock for angling, haven't tested on WW yet. 

In terms of ease of use and overall functionality, I use Cobra's on my raft to guide anglers and run WW.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

slickhorn said:


> In camp, I rigged a 12:1 and could not get the lock off the oar. When I finally got it off, at home, using two 1/2 ton pickups, the oarlock had crushed and splintered the new cataract oar shaft, through the oar sleeve! Whole oar was toast.



I'm not sure how to respond to this, you're kidding, right ?!?!? If not, am guessing you watch a whole lot of Red Green TV shows ? Am also betting someone said, "Hold my beer and watch this!"


If you're not kidding, next time you might consider just putting a bar, crowbar or similar in the gap and prying the bronze apart. Cheaper in gas for the pickups, and easier on the oar shaft 


As for getting the fixed blade out of the water, just push down on the handle, pops right out, another benefit to fixed blades ala pins and clips is you can row (portagee)with your feet ON FLAT WATER when the arms get tired.


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## RichH (Jan 9, 2018)

I use Sawyer Oars and the Cobra locks. I can stand and row if I wish, which is nice on long or windy days. I can also make the locks tighter or looser on the oars. They are bombproof as my current pair are nearing 15 years old. One of the things I do is adjust them looser for Idaho rivers, better to pop an oar than break one. In the Grand I run them fairly tight since there are way less rocks and less opportunities to pop one.
RichH


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## slickhorn (Dec 15, 2005)

MNichols said:


> I'm not sure how to respond to this, you're kidding, right ?!?!? If not, am guessing you watch a whole lot of Red Green TV shows ? Am also betting someone said, "Hold my beer and watch this!"
> 
> 
> If you're not kidding, next time you might consider just putting a bar, crowbar or similar in the gap and prying the bronze apart. Cheaper in gas for the pickups, and easier on the oar shaft


those AL nrs locks are mighty stiff, you might be assuming they were brass. 

I'm trying to figure out how a crowbar is gonna exert more force than a 12:1. 

I don't know why I'd have a crowbar on a multiday trip. Do you pack that with the groover, or the kitchen box?


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

slickhorn said:


> those AL nrs locks are mighty stiff, you might be assuming they were brass.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how a crowbar is gonna exert more force than a 12:1.
> 
> I don't know why I'd have a crowbar on a multiday trip. Do you pack that with the groover, or the kitchen box?



Is MUCH easier and more convienient to store on the boat than 2 pickup trucks :roll:


I did assume they were some permutation of bronze, they do make an AL/Bronze combination you can cast things out of. Guess I should have done more research, but was taken aback by the "overkill" aspect of the method of separating the lock from the oar using trucks. Perhaps on reflection, it wasn't overkill, but the mental picture I had when I wrote that was priceless. 



Reminded me of this


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA14XsUOb3A


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## Jungle Jane (Jun 16, 2010)

Please...someone post a close up pict of "pro locks!"


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Jungle Jane said:


> Please...someone post a close up pict of "pro locks!"



Oar Locks


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## zcollier (Jan 1, 2004)

There's a photo of a pro-lock here: https://flic.kr/p/2ejWuE2


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

Here you go

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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

Oars with shrink sleeves and stoppers 

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## Beer Waggin (Jul 8, 2016)

Those are old school pro loks. The newer version have a miniature oar right on them.


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

Beer Waggin said:


> Those are old school pro loks. The newer version have a miniature oar right on them.


Good to know... i have a set of first generation pro lok's on my other boat, theses where second gen.. its hard to keep up with the times... i just looked at their facebook to find a pic on the new ones they look nice.. 

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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Beer Waggin said:


> Those are old school pro loks. The newer version have a miniature oar right on them.



Why do people use those? You take an Oar system that has the sole benefit of being able to rotate and feather the oar, and the downside of blowing an oar out the top in a seconds notice, leaving you with an unattached oar in your hand, and negate what little benefit the system has by putting a device on it that thwarts any attempt to rotate the oar. 



Yes, I've rowed with them, many miles on government boats, and I CAN row with them, but why would you?


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## wildfireone (May 8, 2017)

If you do not like the oar rights they come right off with two allen bolts....

but, it you just turn the oar over then they are loose, although two inches shorter. 

I set mine at the length I wanted without the oar right, then I actually drop in the two inches; if I use them, which like you say is rare, but I got to say helpful when you really got to pull on one side. I had never had oar rights before, with open locks, but I really like these.

I had pins and clips on my old play cat, it's been a long time but I can't see wanting to put them back on anything now. If anyone wants them, I would be happy to donate.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

wildfireone said:


> If you do not like the oar rights they come right off with two allen bolts.... but, it you just turn the oar over then they are loose, although two inches shorter.



Watch your thumbs when trying this, rotate both oars 90 degrees, that's 4 inches of clearance you lose, twice I have attended to smashed thumbs cause the boatman did this. 



Used to be phillips screws to secure the clamp, usually with stripped out heads from folks unwilling to ruin their oars by drilling a hole in them to secure the oar right from allowing the oar to rotate in the device, rendering them as "Oar Wrongs". Good thing they switched to hex head cap screws instead, less chance of rounding out the heads while making futile attempts to clamp them on the oars solidly. 



Intentionally didn't want to turn this into a P&C vs Oar right discussion... BUT, do you drain your coolers at the end of the day? ROTFLMAO


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

wildfireone said:


> If you do not like the oar rights they come right off with two allen bolts....
> 
> but, it you just turn the oar over then they are loose, although two inches shorter.


Probably closer to 3.5-4" shorter per side, so you're pushing your oar handles 8" closer to each other.

On the Oar Rights instructions, it says you can cut them down for easier feathering when flipped (leave a 2" stub).

I was going to cut a pair of my Oar Rights after I refinished all my oars this fall, but that's on hold as I'm more likely to try unfeathered all summer. Wish me luck.


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## Conundrum (Aug 23, 2004)

Cobras and rope wraps here. I like the feel. It's not for everyone and that's okay too.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> Probably closer to 3.5-4" shorter per side, so you're pushing your oar handles 8" closer to each other.
> 
> On the Oar Rights instructions, it says you can cut them down for easier feathering when flipped (leave a 2" stub).
> 
> I was going to cut a pair of my Oar Rights after I refinished all my oars this fall, but that's on hold as I'm more likely to try unfeathered all summer. Wish me luck.



I always like to feather my oars when I'm flipped :roll:


You don't need luck, you just need to keep an eye (hand) on the oar so it's there when you need it. Not a hard thing to do. When I had to start rowing opens, or tow a boat 5 hours to boat, I thought it'd be a royal pain, once in the rapids it was second nature after a couple strokes with the blade flat (yikes) taught me that this vertical blade nonsense was indeed important. 



Now I don't give it a second thought, and have been doing it for years. I ran into a private boater once that had cut a small notch in the rubber grip of his handle, on the end that he could feel with his thumb when the blade was vertical. 



Thought that a really smart idea, you can tell where the blade is without looking.


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## FlyingDutchman (Mar 25, 2014)

I too have little knicks on the handles to feel the rotation/position of my oar blade in between strokes.

My other set of oars has some sharpie marks just below the handle for a visual without turning your head. Both are great for fast pace technical water.


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## FlyingDutchman (Mar 25, 2014)

Cataract oars now come with “index grip” handles. Essentially the same thing


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> I ran into a private boater once that had cut a small notch in the rubber grip of his handle, on the end that he could feel with his thumb when the blade was vertical.
> 
> Thought that a really smart idea, you can tell where the blade is without looking.


Looking forward to trying that on my oars:


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## seantana (Mar 5, 2015)

wildfireone said:


> If you do not like the oar rights they come right off with two allen bolts....
> 
> but, it you just turn the oar over then they are loose, although two inches shorter.
> .


Or just get convertibles that flip up. I flip mine up for windy conditions or flat water when I want to feather, and flip them down for more technical stuff. Of course, it's not nearly as nice as duct tape and hose clamps...


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

FlyingDutchman said:


> Cataract oars now come with “index grip” handles. Essentially the same thing



Interesting, I went to their site and saw the indents in the handles, looks like they would wear rapidly from abrasions during transport..


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