# Trailer Width - 16ft boat



## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

I know there are tons of threads about trailers and sizing, but most if not all talk about length, I am fine on length, most likely will do either 12 or 14'. 

My question is about width. My boat is 16'x7'8''. Almost every raft trailer out there is 7' wide, even the deck-over ones. Thinking about going custom and getting an 8' wide deck since I cannot find a stock one this wide anywhere in Colorado, there's a company in Bend, OR that does it but shipping a trailer is crazy. 

It's getting pricy to have a trailer company do it, may save some money buying a utility trailer and having a local fabricator weld on a deck to it. 

How crucial is an 8' deck for a boat this wide, anyone running a 16' expedition width raft on a 7' wide trailer? I don't like the idea of rubber hanging over the sides, and not sure if it even fits, but I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts that has had to deal with this.


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

I see what you're saying, but not all of the tube sits on the trailer. My boat isn't as wide as yours, but on a 6' wide trailer, my 7'1" rides fine with a couple of racks modded up by a buddy of mine.
YMMV
-Thomas


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

You have 3-4 inches to spare on the sides on a 6' wide trailer? Or are those racks wider than the trailer? I assume the trailer bed is 6' wide between the wheels? So with the side racks over the wheels you probably get another 18 inches or so and looks like the platforms stick out another inch or two past the wheels. So what is your full width from the edge of your deck to the edge of the other side?

This is the 156? If not do mind telling me how long your boat is and what length trailer is that? Looks like it fits well on there.


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

Paul, it can be done. Having over hang that is. I recently got bigger tubes for my cat, and had to replace my deck 2x8's with 2x12's to make sure it would fit. 

My logic is this - if at least the center of both tubes is on the deck(and it's secured well for travel), then you should be fine. Granted, my boat rides very high off the ground and I'm not as concerned about protection from ground debris, rocks, mud, etc. 
The main negative I have found is visibility 15-20 ft behind the trailer. I try to make sure I have line of site thru the center of my cat to prevent large blind spots. 
I think it boils down to what's your comfort level with it hanging over. In my case, I strap down the tubes and frame excessively so my comfort level is acceptable.

Good luck!


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

T.O.Mac, I really like the modular design of your side rails. That's a fairly easy addition to a stock trailer. I just helped a buddy add decking and stabilization to a fairly stock trailer last spring. His setup works, but I wish we'd seen your setup before hand. That looks pretty bomber.


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

PtheK and Pirate, 
Thanks...
The boat is a 156R 
The decks are 18" wide, but are only 12" outside the frame of the trailer (which is 6' inside the box)
It is based on a PJ trailer, 6x12 box with the Ready Rail Attachments.
I ordered https://parts.pjtrailers.com/ready-rail/ready-rail-trimmer-rack-adapter.html
and then had my friend weld up adjustable stands and weld the rollers in place.

has been great for three seasons now...just have to paint the 2x6 every couple of years.


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## almortal (Jun 22, 2014)

I had the exact same concern with mine. I use a converted ATV/snowmobile trailer. When I put rollers on the back I also put 8 foot 2x2s across the trailer every 3-4 feet elevated a few inches above the deck. This makes sliding the boat on a little bit easier. 

Since my boat is almost exactly 8 ft wide I also spray painted the tips of the 2x2s red-ish so I could tell the exact dimensions of the boat and trailer when maneuvering - as a rookie at the time it really helped develop my spatial awareness of trailer driving.


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## Buddha09 (May 15, 2014)

Snowmobile trailers are typically 8ft. wide and come in various lengths. That is what everyone I raft with uses for a trailer.


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks guys. T.O. these adapters are pretty slick. So are the platforms that you welded up just pinned into the adapters? Can you slide the decks and the metal welded parts below the wood off your trailer easier should you need to use the trailer for another purpose? 

I like this idea honestly, then if I need a utility trailer I can easily slide off the raft decks. 

So with the 12'' you have outside of the stock box you effectively have 7' of width from edge to edge?


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## CB Rob (Feb 13, 2010)

TO Mac, one more compliment on that trailer. That looks quite simple and functional, I hope to put together a copy cat trailer this spring.

got any more pics?


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

Paul the Kayaker said:


> Thanks guys. T.O. these adapters are pretty slick. So are the platforms that you welded up just pinned into the adapters? Can you slide the decks and the metal welded parts below the wood off your trailer easier should you need to use the trailer for another purpose?
> 
> I like this idea honestly, then if I need a utility trailer I can easily slide off the raft decks.
> 
> So with the 12'' you have outside of the stock box you effectively have 7' of width from edge to edge?


The attached picture shows one of the adapters. I had Jacob look at my idea, and the pinch bolts were his improvement over my original idea. There was already a hole punched there in the adapter, so he welded a nut on, and the rest is history.

I have used the noted "aligned holes" a couple of times (a grade 8 hitch pin goes in there)--they were set up so that when my big cooler was under the railing, it would just clear...usually, however, to lower the top deck, I just put a rocket box under each corner of the trailer decks, lower the decks down to it, and lock down the pinch bolts. Have run a two boat stack to Deso that way...

Let me know if you want to see other pictures... I can grab some when I get home from work.
-Thomas


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

also,
with it running just about 12" out per side, the overall width is almost 8" (6+1+1)
will get better measurements than my memory allows when I'm home.


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

Ok, so ya they stick out 12'' on each side, that makes sense, I thought you meant 12'' total (6 on each side), that totally makes sense that you have 3-4 inches to spare under your raft then. I think this is the route I am going to go, get a 6x12 pj trailer with these speed rails and weld up two platforms. I like that you have them so you can raise and lower them easily, the welding of a "pinch bolt" was smart for sure, I may just put a couple holes in the legs of my platforms so I can have 2 heights if needed for some reason like sliding coolers and dry boxes under if there's a need and then pinned with a hitch pin. When extra height is not needed they just ride as low as they will go and pinned there. This is a great idea. Thanks again, I'd love more pics if you have them. Any with the platforms built but before you put the wood decking on? 

Thanks again.


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

Also TO did you make that tailgate? The PJ trailers a am seeing are all stocked with a ramp gate, did you just cut it down or did you get a different gate all together?


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

Paul the Kayaker said:


> Also TO did you make that tailgate? The PJ trailers a am seeing are all stocked with a ramp gate, did you just cut it down or did you get a different gate all together?


no, that is a pre-fab "tailgate" is just a ready made "ready made bed divider" I slapped on the end...
the ramp gate comes off with a couple of pins and a smile.


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## Whitewater Worthy Equip (Dec 11, 2013)

Our standard trailers are 7'4" wide. I frequently load our Maravia Grand 18' and it works well. 

I did an 8' wide custom trailer for a guy in Colorado but it does add a bunch of money to the cost as it is no longer a cut parts, place in jig, and tack operation.


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks all, I am realizing that maybe an 8' wide trailer simply may be overkill. The boat is 7'8'' (92'') wide but it has 22'' tubes so the center to center where the boat will sit I guess is only 5'10'' (70"). 

I guess a standard 7'wide trailer will work just fine, the outside of the raft will be wider then the deck on a 7' wide trailer but there will be plenty of room since not all that width will be on the deck. 

Only concern with a 7' deck is road debris kicking up and the raft overhanging a bit. Worth the concern or not?


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## DarrylH (Mar 10, 2015)

*Boat trailer*

Paul - Here is my adaptation of the same trailer ideas as TOMac and Pirate. I bought a 10' BigTex utility and modified it so I could launch and recover by myself. Built a new gate with stainless roller, added aluminum uprights, built twin removable decks, and then put a cargo box on the front with an electric winch (I'm not young anymore).

It sits high enough to allow ample storage of dry boxes, oars, and gear. My boat is a E-16' NRS Nez Perce. This set up allows me to get on and off the ramp without much fuss. 

I learned really quick to hang on to the bow line when launching - once the boat starts back across the roller, it really takes off!

When I winch the boat in, I still have to move the boat forward a foot or so after stowing the winch & strap gear. It rides down the road just great at hwy speeds.


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## cupido76 (May 22, 2009)

Paul the Kayaker said:


> Thanks all, I am realizing that maybe an 8' wide trailer simply may be overkill. The boat is 7'8'' (92'') wide but it has 22'' tubes so the center to center where the boat will sit I guess is only 5'10'' (70").
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I personally would prefer the trailer deck to be as wide or wider than the boat, to protect from road debris as you mentioned above.

This can be accomplished like others have posted by making elevated racks that are wider than the trailer, as a few of the examples posted here have been. 

If you have room for it, that is.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

My trailer is 7 feet wide on a 7'4" wide boat. I REALLY WANT another couple inches so that I can walk, or at least have a toe hold on the trailer for digging around in or rigging the boat while on the trailer. I've actually been thinking of welding 2" angle to the sides to give me that extra couple inches. As it is there is about 2" inches exposed under the curve of the tubes. I can jam my toes in there and get a foot hold, but they have slipped out and if pressure is low, it's even more tenuous of a "toe hold" I built my deck, adding it to an existing trailer and really wish I'd gone wider.... it's so nice to walk around on a wider trailer - 7-6" would be perfect for me, If my boat were 7'8" I'd think about going to 8'.

Here's an idea... is your boat set up? if so scab together the outline of each trailer deck with 2X? material and set the raft on it. (rubber only would work, I'd think) that will give you a feel for how much room there will be mover around on... or maybe just tape it on the floor, but I'd think having the 2x under it would allow you to feel just how much of a foot hold you will have.

I wish I'd done something like this!!!!


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## Paul the Kayaker (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks for the pics and extra ideas. I am planning buying the 72x12 trailer and making the two decks 20'' wide each by 12' long. The support column will be off center a touch with 11'' hanging out and 9 inches hanging in over the trailer. The legs sit an inch wider than the width of the bed. This will give me 96'' full width from edge of the deck to edge of deck. The boat is 7'8'' so that gives me the 4'' of space to have good piece of mind. The opening of the decks on the inside will be 56", so the center to center of the boats tubes of 70'' is nicely centered on the decks with plenty of wiggle room to the inside or outside. I plan on making the legs 30'' so I can raise them if needed, most of the time they will be as low as they can go over the stock trailer rail. Also plan on welding on a winch on the tongue that's removable.

Building out of 1''x2'' 11 gauge square tube for the legs and cross members and 2''x2'' 11 gauge angle for the sides. Plan is 2 pressure treated 2''x10''x12' planks on the top of each

If you see an obvious hole in this plan feel free to tell me. 

Thanks for all your help on this, buying the trailer in the next few days, got a quote from the local metal shop, with cuts should be around $250 for the steel, then I just need to weld it up, paint it and bolt on the wood. 

Any suggestions on where to purchase 20'' wide rollers with mounts? I like the two smaller roller idea like TO has, seems simple.


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## T.O.Mac (Jun 6, 2015)

The rollers and the winch were super inexpensive from Northern Tool

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...5984?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...0588?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF

both worked well for me.


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## Makokomar017 (Mar 27, 2021)

DarrylH said:


> *Boat trailer*
> 
> Paul - Here is my adaptation of the same trailer ideas as TOMac and Pirate. I bought a 10' BigTex utility and modified it so I could launch and recover by myself. Built a new gate with stainless roller, added aluminum uprights, built twin removable decks, and then put a cargo box on the front with an electric winch (I'm not young anymore).
> 
> ...


@DarrylH would you share the parts list for the cargo box electric winch and tower. That looks perfect!


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## DarrylH (Mar 10, 2015)

I hope photos with parts list will suffice. Winch is a 2,500 lb ATV Superwinch, battery a 'mid-size' deep cycle - the 4"x4" electrical box has a rotary switch that makes connection to power feed from my vehicle for charging with underway, 6"x6" electrical box; blue toggle switch & indicator light provide power to winch control cord (coiled in bottom), the rotary switch & indicator light turn on power to the large bolts protruding on either side of the box - marked '+' or '-', I clip my electric pump to them if I need auxiliary power.
Stowed on the back of the box are the post extension (middle), top post & shackle (top), and angled post support (bottom).
I reinforced the bottom of the box - figured there would be a lot of force trying to pull the winch out of the thin aluminum box, and torque exerted on the post assembly.










The black post extension goes on to the mount inside the box, the angled post support goes on a mount in the front of the trailer (behind box), then the top post & shackle join the two together. 










I put this harness together - it clips to the boats' D rings and then to the winch shackle. It all assembles pretty quickly and pulls the boat up easily. Once the boat is on the trailer I collapse and stow the winch post's, pull the boat a little more forward on the trailer, strap the boat to trailer and I'm off the ramp. 










The last piece was security - I knew the little lock mechanism included with the aluminum box was useless - now I don't worry about transit or ramp issues. I'd already welded the support tubing inside the front of the trailer (the angled support tubing for the winch post slides into it), so I devised the simple bar & hinge - it slides down over the post, and has a pin at bottom for a decent lock. 

This was kind of an evolutionary process - the trailer decks are a little higher than I'd like, but it does give me a ton of storage under the boat. The first time I launch the boat rigged I was glad I had good hold of the bowline - once the boat started over the roller inertia took over and about yanked me out too! If you have questions, feel free to give me a call - I'm in Salt Lake 8zero1, 87zero, zero4zero4. Darryl


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## Makokomar017 (Mar 27, 2021)

DarrylH said:


> *Boat trailer*
> 
> Paul - Here is my adaptation of the same trailer ideas as TOMac and Pirate. I bought a 10' BigTex utility and modified it so I could launch and recover by myself. Built a new gate with stainless roller, added aluminum uprights, built twin removable decks, and then put a cargo box on the front with an electric winch (I'm not young anymore).
> 
> ...


Darryl, 

Do you have any more pictures of your winch set up? I'm looking to do something like this but haven't made the final decision on lay out. 

It looks like the post comes in half and fits into the box for storage?


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## DarrylH (Mar 10, 2015)

Makokomar017 said:


> Darryl,
> 
> Do you have any more pictures of your winch set up? I'm looking to do something like this but haven't made the final decision on lay out.
> 
> It looks like the post comes in half and fits into the box for storage?


Makokomar017 - Look at Trailer winch? (Look at the bottom of page one, and complete response following on page two.) I posted a series of pics that show how the winch assembly goes together - yes, it's actually three pieces that fit over fixed posts - one inside the cargo box and another in the trailer bed. If they
pics don't show up, PM me and I'll send them to you direct.

We all have bias' about what works for us - part of what drove me on this project was the desire to be able to completely stow everything inside a cargo box -and- I trailer with an SUV, so clearance for the lift gate mattered. Somewhere in one of the discussions I mentioned once my boat is pulled up close to the winch 'mast-head', I collapse and stow the post assembly, and then pull the boat up another foot on the trailer. It's like a Marine's haircut...high and tight. 

Besides the wide ratchet straps holding everything down, I tie the bowline to the front of the trailer - it makes for a rock solid tow at highway speeds.

Good luck with your project! Darryl


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