# Clearance around side boards



## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

I tried and liked my ghetto 2x6 side boards this summer so I am going to make some nice ones out of plywood this winter. To those of you who have done this in the past how much clearance ha e you found to be a good amount between your boxes and side boards? 

Thanks in advance.

-Fly


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## Bigwaterforeveryone (Feb 7, 2018)

I'm redesigning my frame and was just thinking about this same question. In my case I have to think about leaving sufficient space for the side mounted handles on my long dry box. If it is too tight of a fit, I risk smashed fingers when placing the box into the hole. (Handle placement on dry boxes may differ) So I'm going for enough space for a hand on the handle and then once it's in, enough space to also be able to reach down into the chasm to fetch that important item that fell in between the dry box and the tube.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

I made the mistake of not leaving enough room to get my hand between the frame and my dry box when I built it, it's not aggravating enough to build another box, but I sure do chastise myself every time I rig and de-rig the boat. I'd say 4 inches would be the minimum you'd want but everyone has their preferences. I combat the lack of clearance by opening the box and lifting from the inner lip as a workaround.


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## markhusbands (Aug 17, 2015)

I cut little routed handle gaps for my dry box. This way I don't crush fingers dropping it in and the rest of the board still prevents side to side movement of the box.


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

MNichols said:


> I made the mistake of not leaving enough room to get my hand between the frame and my dry box when I built it, it's not aggravating enough to build another box, but I sure do chastise myself every time I rig and de-rig the boat. I'd say 4 inches would be the minimum you'd want but everyone has their preferences. I combat the lack of clearance by opening the box and lifting from the inner lip as a workaround.


4" from the edge of your box or 4" past the handles? 



markhusbands said:


> I cut little routed handle gaps for my dry box. This way I don't crush fingers dropping it in and the rest of the board still prevents side to side movement of the box.


I was planning on cutting some reliefs for my drybox handles. Probably cooler too but with rope handles I don't think the reliefs will need to be as deep. Do you run the rest of the board tight to your drybox?


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## B4otter (Apr 20, 2009)

Half inch rope or any rope or webbing with a short piece of old garden hose (4") makes a good "handle extender" if you're in a tight fit scenario...
I never had the back to lift a big 'ole dry box in and out of boat, one reason I went to plastic boxes for kitchen. They're cheap and don't last forever, but 2 or 3# versus 48 for my big (admittedly made for motor) dry box. Plus you're "modular" - can get everything for 3-4 peeps into one, or the whole shebang for GC trip (15-16 folks) into two.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

MNichols said:


> I made the mistake of not leaving enough room to get my hand between the frame and my dry box when I built it, it's not aggravating enough to build another box, but I sure do chastise myself every time I rig and de-rig the boat. I'd say 4 inches would be the minimum you'd want but everyone has their preferences. I combat the lack of clearance by opening the box and lifting from the inner lip as a workaround.


I like the solution with a rail welded to the drybox resting on a rail on the frame...and the handles above.


of course, my own drybox has neither. haha


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

Fly By Night said:


> 4" from the edge of your box or 4" past the handles?



4 inches from the edge of my drybox, the handles I use are flip down, 1.5" stick out from the drybox, allowing 3" for my grubby paw to clear.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> I like the solution with a rail welded to the drybox resting on a rail on the frame...and the handles above.
> of course, my own drybox has neither. haha



I built my drybox to sit flush with the diamondplate decking so I could sleep on a totally flat surface. That is a nice setup in the photos though.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

I was going to build a longer/wider/shorter drybox to do the same.

then I built a dory with a smooth deck.

Doubt I'll worry much anymore about the raft's drybox!


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## markhusbands (Aug 17, 2015)

"Do you run the rest of the board tight to your drybox?"

Not tight, but maybe a 3/4 inch Gap on each end except for handle cutouts. And I have the stock spring handles, which I like.


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## seantana (Mar 5, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> I like the solution with a rail welded to the drybox resting on a rail on the frame...and the handles above.
> 
> 
> of course, my own drybox has neither. haha


Careful, if you post 3 of his pics, he shows up like Beetlejuice.


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

I have my boards pretty close. about an inch gap with cut outs for the handles of my dry boxes.. no need for cut outs for the cooler as you lower it in with rope handles then tuck them in. I also made cut outs just big enough so my captains boxes would open without touching.. I wanted to get my gaps small enough that there was no way a foot or hand could get entrapped in there..


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## zercon (Aug 30, 2006)

*Side boards*

I see the heads of some carriage bolts and some black spacers along the zip ties, what are you using for the nuts?


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

zercon said:


> I see the heads of some carriage bolts and some black spacers along the zip ties, what are you using for the nuts?


They are spacer pucks from whitewater machine works. Accessories

they happen to be just the right height so i can rest my side decks on the kee lite fittings and use these as supports on the longer stretches so my deck floats. this way it is really easy to run straps around the deck or frame.


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

FWIW, I wouldn't make them any wider than the rails of your frame for the pinch factor they present. I'm thinking if one gets bucked out of their seat, (being high back, low back or Paco pad....) they could receive a good butt pinching between the box and the board with only an inch or two of clearance.


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

caverdan said:


> FWIW, I wouldn't make them any wider than the rails of your frame for the pinch factor they present. I'm thinking if one gets bucked out of their seat, (being high back, low back or Paco pad....) they could receive a good butt pinching between the box and the board with only an inch or two of clearance.


Thanks for the tip. I was planning on setting my decks on the rails for support, I'm thinking about how to get a strap around the frame and under the deck easily for securing the frame to the boat, perhaps it'll reveal itself when the rough shape is cut out. 

How dare you insinuate I would have a high back seat on my boat! What kind of monster do you think I am?!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

Fly By Night said:


> How dare you insinuate I would have a high back seat on my boat! What kind of monster do you think I am?!


Actually........I'm thinking your a stand up kind of guy when it comes to rowing......:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:


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## noahfecks (Jun 14, 2008)

I like to run my decks an inch smaller than the inside of the tubes as that space is generally unusable to store an ammo can or water jug.


I create strap holes in the boards by drilling 1/2" holes the appropriate distance apart for the desired strap and connecting them with a jigsaw or router with straight cutting bit.


I round over all edges with a 1/4" radius bit on a router.


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## delmarhotshot (Mar 24, 2014)

codycleve said:


> I have my boards pretty close. about an inch gap with cut outs for the handles of my dry boxes.. no need for cut outs for the cooler as you lower it in with rope handles then tuck them in. I also made cut outs just big enough so my captains boxes would open without touching.. I wanted to get my gaps small enough that there was no way a foot or hand could get entrapped in there..


Nice decking. Could you tell me the brand and where you got it? Thanks!


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

delmarhotshot said:


> Nice decking. Could you tell me the brand and where you got it? Thanks!


It's just 3/4" CDX coated with about 2 or three coats of Cabot deck correct.. They can tint it several different colors.. I really like it. it's tough, it's easy, maintenance free, and it provides some good traction without being too abrasive.


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## PDX Duck (Mar 17, 2015)

Make them as wide as possible...and make cutouts for the handles (as multiple people have recommended).

No reason to give up that real estate and the cutouts work perfect especially with the spring-loaded Drybox handles


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

PDX Duck said:


> Make them as wide as possible...and make cutouts for the handles (as multiple people have recommended).
> 
> No reason to give up that real estate and the cutouts work perfect especially with the spring-loaded Drybox handles


My thoughts exactly. 


Does anyone have pictures of side boards on a NRS frame?


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## Electric-Mayhem (Jan 19, 2004)

My sideboards on my 146DD frame are a foot wide and have a 3-4" gap between the dry boxes. I kind of like this since it has plenty of room to drop the boxes in but I also regularly stick a water bottle, throw bag, shoes, or whatever other loose item might be floating around on top of the boxes that I don't mind getting wet. Its obviously not a "Rig to flip" situation with that stuff unless you clip it in, but I definitely utilize that space to secure stuff.











I think a foot wide is plenty too... I don't feel like its prohibitive to the purpose to have them that narrow. I can walk around the boat no problem and it provides a nice stable platform to step on and off the boat.


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Here are a few....


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## Kirby (Aug 14, 2013)

Mine are tight and I just push the dry boxes to one side then drop the handle and lower.


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## bcpnick (Jul 16, 2015)

Just enough room to fit a stream machine water gun down the side is perfect, IMO. On my latest build it's great around my dry box but just a bit too close to my cooler.


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## m.r.h. (Mar 16, 2015)

A bit off of the original question but I just noticed NRS has these pre made side boards. May a nice place to start those those with an NRS frame and aren't to handy.

https://www.nrs.com/product/93010.04/nrs-hdpe-frame-side-rail-racks


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

elkhaven said:


> Here are a few....



Those are really well thought-out and built.


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## MNichols (Nov 20, 2015)

MT4Runner said:


> Those are really well thought-out and built.


I second that comment, so nice to see a clean build, when I started boating all frames were 2x6 construction, and everything was lashed to the 2x6's. We've come a long way baby =)


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## elkhaven (Sep 11, 2013)

Thanks! I've had 2x6 frames! I love making things clean and better than when they started (save my bedroom, office, work bench, yard, etc).


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## tmcrude (Jul 19, 2010)

Hello MountainBuzz,
Have learned tons from this thread and others on sideboards as I gear up to make some this winter or spring, so thanks to all who've shared. Two questions though:

1) codycleve or others, any tips on acquiring the WW Machine Works spacer pucks? I've emailed them and left VM's but never any response. Also, how does the nut that passes through the puck and the deck join to the frame? Is the frame tapped/threaded in that spot?
2) Anyone know a place to buy polymax poultry/kennel decking (the 2'x4' pieces) in the Portland (OR) metro area? And do foilks who've used it like the overlapping or the non-overlapping? Probably the non?


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

the spacer puck does not actually attach to the frame. it is just cupped to ride on the frame and provide support. It only attaches to the deck. If you have a D&B ranch supply they should have polly max. most farm and ranch or pet supply stores carry it or have the ability to get it.


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## codycleve (Mar 26, 2012)

nevermind on the most people carry it on the poly max.. I just tried to find it in places that used to carry it with no luck..


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

I am getting closer to making decks. I think MDO is going to best for me, how thick of ply/ MDO are you using? I am trying to balance weight with now worrying about standing on the things while holding a cooler.


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## noahfecks (Jun 14, 2008)

Wait, are you worried about the difference in the weight of less than a sheet of 1/2" vs. 3/4" plywood?


If Amy Benton who weighs 98# soaking wet with rocks in her pockets can row a fully rigged 18' outfitter gear boat, you ought to be able to handle less than 20# for decking and hatch covers. Woman up!


Yeah, yeah.... I know I'm an asshole for saying it


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

noahfecks said:


> Wait, are you worried about the difference in the weight of less than a sheet of 1/2" vs. 3/4" plywood?
> 
> 
> If Amy Benton who weighs 98# soaking wet with rocks in her pockets can row a fully rigged 18' outfitter gear boat, you ought to be able to handle less than 20# for decking and hatch covers. Woman up!
> ...


I was more concerned about the weight when handling the frame and in low water boney condition's. Also it seems 1/2" MDO is the only stuff easy to source locally. I have concerns about that being strong enough.


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Depends on the spans. If it's only supported at the ends, go 3/4. If you're supporting it on both edges on a double-rail frame or it's only cantilevering in a little bit at the cooler or drybox, 1/2" would do it. You can also glue on reinforcements on the bottom with liquid nails or epoxy.


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

MT4Runner said:


> Depends on the spans. If it's only supported at the ends, go 3/4. If you're supporting it on both edges on a double-rail frame or it's only cantilevering in a little bit at the cooler or drybox, 1/2" would do it. You can also glue on reinforcements on the bottom with liquid nails or epoxy.


Mine will be supported on both ends and on one side. I think most of my bays will be okay with 1/2", I've thought about screwing on some aluminum angle underneath to support the span over my rowers compartment. Does that seem reasonable to you?


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## MT4Runner (Apr 6, 2012)

Absolutely reasonable idea.


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## Fly By Night (Oct 31, 2018)

Anyone make sideboards out of 1/2" plywood?


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