# New Rafting Oars



## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

Our new raft should be shipping today. I haven't decided which oars to get, Carlisle, or Cataract. We run Carlisle's now, just fine. Cataract are more money, and I've also heard some "issues" where the fiberglass gets sharp over time.

What's the performance difference with Cataract vs Carlisle's?


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## ecjohnson (Nov 6, 2007)

Cataract oars are lighter in the hand and stiffer. 

I've seen Carlisle's bend from hits that would do nothing to other oars, or maybe chip an oar blade at most. 

I've been using Smokers and Sawyer MX F/G's with the Dynelite blades lately and love both. Even pricier though, but I think worth it. They are both stiffer than the Cataracts and just feel tougher. They are pretty heavy in the hand though. 



lhowemt said:


> What's the performance difference with Cataract vs Carlisle's?


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## El Flaco (Nov 5, 2003)

If I were shopping again, I would take a look at the Sawyer Pole Cats- they seemed like excellent quality for the money, and I have some friends that speak highly of them. I'm not as impressed with the Cataract blades - they bent on the first trip out, and I don't think it took much. Happy with the Cataract counter-balanced shafts, though... 

Sawyer Paddles and Oars 

DRE sells Pole Cats if you are a Frontal Ranger and you want to take a closer look- although I believe you're in D-go.


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## Coon (Jun 25, 2007)

*I think...*

Cataracts all the way!

I agree with Ethan, Cats are Definitely more sturdy and reliable.
Much less likely to break on ya.

Well worth the extra $


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## brendodendo (Jul 18, 2004)

Cataract are great oars. (I know nothing about wood brands)

1: Keep then out of the sun when not being used.
2: Try not to allow them to abrade on anything.
3: If you notice a wear spot, sand with steel wool and spray with a clear exoxy / urathane paint.

I found the the biggest difference was the amount of force that I could generate versus aluminum based oars. As you make a stroke, the oars actually bend slightly. This causes a nice strong push with a snappy feel at the end of the stroke.

Personally I h8 oar rights. But Cataract says that you should NOT drill the set screw. If you do, it may void your warranty.

I also do not like counter balanced oars. I have found that it makes the oar heavier on the stroke and causes me to use more energy getting where I want to be. just my POV


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## bradslob (Apr 20, 2006)

*Pole Cats*

Just picked up my pole cats from 4 corners. I'm impressed with the balance, weight and quality for the money. Still have to try 'em on the river 'though. They seem like the best value. Better than the carlisle not as pricey as the cataract.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

*Counter Balanced*

I agree on counterbalanced oars.

A properly placed oar should weigh nothing. It should be balanced. If you need counterbalancing something in your frame or oarlocks are wrong.

Carlisle oars have an inner aluminum shaft. If the shaft gets bent or crimped the oar can break. Which I have seen happen (athough rare)

I also do not like counter balanced oars. I have found that it makes the oar heavier on the stroke and causes me to use more energy getting where I want to be. just my POV[/quote]


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## lmaciag (Oct 10, 2003)

*Polecats*

I took the recommendation of posters on this site in the spring and bought counterbalanced Sawyer PoleCats. I didn't have a lot of previous experience, but really like them. Also, experienced rafters have rowed my rig and have really liked them, too.

Laurie


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## miker (Jan 26, 2006)

Sawyer all the way. Your sholders are worth it


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## rwhyman (May 23, 2005)

Personally, I'm a Sawyer fan. I also like counterweighted oars. A year or so ago, I bought a used Cat that came with non-counterweighted Cataracts. I used them on one Westwater trip and although they were setup properly with 1/3 in, 2/3 out, I immediately replaced them with the 10ft Sawyers off my raft. My arms were much more tired from lifting the oars on every stroke than they ever were when using counterweighted oars. Yea, I know, I'm an old guy that sits on his ass all day at work.
Then I bought new 9ft Sawyers for the raft. Counterweighted, of course.
Yes, the old Cataract oars are still hanging around the garage.

If you are still stuck on Carlisle's or Cats, I would definitely go with the Cats. They cost more for a reason. I've seen a lot of bent, cracked, split, and/or broken Carlisle's on the river, can't say that about Cats or Sawyers


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## dgosn (Sep 8, 2006)

*Sticks*

I think cataracts are decent as long as you don't row a heavy boat, or have them longer than 8'. They are lighter and flimsier, but cheap to replace should you loose one.

That said I had an 11' foot set for my big cat and they SUCKED! They bent considerably until they transferred power to the water, a waste of energy. I also snapped one clean in the depths of Skull hole. I now have the MGX? (stiffer) cataracts. These are way better. I didn't care much for the cataract blades, I put on Polecat blades for the simple fact that they are damn near indestructible and cheap.

I have used the entire polecat setup and it is a great deal fro the price, the only reason I didn't get them is they don't come in 11' foot length. I have also used the dynalight blades which are awesome, but for $400(or 750 PBRs) for 3 that is a lot of loot. I also saw a buddy's dynalight blade get sheared oat the the shaft in a big hydralic, and it was his spare oar strapped to the side. Pretty strange, I know, but still. Personally I think the shaft is WAY more important than the blade as long as the blade stay rigid, but I am a dumbass about such things 

Ideally I would love to have wood oars(ash) with wood/composit blades if I was only on deep/big water, but I like taking my barge down shallow rivers sometimes. 

Scott

ps; who has a spot on a Westwater trip the first week of AUG, I have been in WV for two months working and need a desert trip wicked bad!!!


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Carlisle RIP*

I've used Carlisle oars for my big boat for years: no worries. 

But the word is that since the company was swallowed up by Johnson Outdoors (mega-conglomerate) some effing genius changed the material specs and now the blades shatter if you look at them crosswise (this from outfitters and other heavy users). 

No word on shafts (aluminum with plastic coating) failing, but who wants busted blades? 

My next oars will probably be Sawyer PoleCats with the skinny fir blades. If I was going 10 ft. or longer I'd get counterbalanced. But it adds 3-4 lbs. to the weight of the oar. If you get floating blades you might not want counterbalance, or vice versa. (Any experience out there?) Definitely go for yellow or white shafts— the black ones are bloody hard to see when you're chasing one in big water or low light. 

The Sawyer website is awful. The most complete listing for Sawyer oars that I've seen is at Sotar Home.

cheers, Chip


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## tyaker (Dec 11, 2004)

Alright... :roll: Can't help it- gotta put in my .02: If you don't have the $$$ for Smokers (arguably the best oar out there), get Cats, put Dynalite blades on 'em, and (I still don't believe nobody out here does this) wrap 'em with seat-belt webbing. 

Light, feel like wood, smooth as butta in the locks. 

The Dynalites are spendy, but IMHO, your oars are how you communicate with the water, so the better the tools, the better the rowing.

Oh, and counter-balanced oars sink.

Tyler


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

I am reluctant to go with Sawyers. I had some on a rental boat for the Grand Canyon, and they felt very weak, I also didn't like the bend. I borrowed someone's "spare" Carlisle's, used beer cans for counter weights, and was much happier. I attributed the dislike of the Sawyers to the skiiner profile, they just didn't seem as powerful, and felt like they would try to bounce in hard pulls. 

Any thoughts on that? 

I also like the fact that you need to get less depth in the water to get the full blade submerged on the Carlisle's, vs the longer profile of the Sawyers. Shallow water seems to favor that aspect.

I'm wondering if I didn't like the bend of the Sawyer's, will the Cataract bend seem similar? 

I've also heard the Carlisle's have straightened out the problem that happened when Johnson bought them. NRS said it was just a bad batch, long since fixed. I've not had a problem with mine, which were bought after that problem surfaced, and I bang the crap out of them on rocks.


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## rwhyman (May 23, 2005)

What Sawyers were on the rental boat? I run MX/G"s and I don't get a lot of flex. In fact, they are quite stiff.

Down River Equipment




lhowemt said:


> I am reluctant to go with Sawyers. I had some on a rental boat for the Grand Canyon, and they felt very weak, I also didn't like the bend. I borrowed someone's "spare" Carlisle's, used beer cans for counter weights, and was much happier. I attributed the dislike of the Sawyers to the skiiner profile, they just didn't seem as powerful, and felt like they would try to bounce in hard pulls.
> 
> Any thoughts on that?
> 
> ...


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

I have no idea which ones they were, but I they were pretty basic. I know people said that they shouldn't flex, but they felt like it compared to the Carlisle's.

Wow, those Sawyers are EXPENSIVE. They make even the cataract look inexpensive.


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## Snowhere (Feb 21, 2008)

You can get counterweighted cats from the factory. You just need to specify CW when you order them.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

*Balanced oars*

Just because they are 1/3 to 3/2 ratio does not mean the oars are balanced.

I put rubber guards on the paddles of my old wooded oars and they were suddenly unbalanced. A little weight on the end of an oar translates into much weight if the balance isn't right.

You need to play with the oar and check different pivot points until you find the balance. It will be different for different brands or types of oars.

You might have to move the oar locks or frame in or out.

Perhaps the oars were too long, or not long enough. But they were definitely out of balance if they wore you out.

Having worked for numerous outfitters over the years I can assure you that many people do not understand how to balance an oar.

But a well balanced oar, be it wood, Carlisle or Cataract is a thing of beauty. And will make rowing a pleasure.








rwhyman said:


> Personally, I'm a Sawyer fan. I also like counterweighted oars. A year or so ago, I bought a used Cat that came with non-counterweighted Cataracts. I used them on one Westwater trip and although they were setup properly with 1/3 in, 2/3 out, I immediately replaced them with the 10ft Sawyers off my raft. My arms were much more tired from lifting the oars on every stroke than they ever were when using counterweighted oars. Yea, I know, I'm an old guy that sits on his ass all day at work.
> Then I bought new 9ft Sawyers for the raft. Counterweighted, of course.
> Yes, the old Cataract oars are still hanging around the garage.
> 
> If you are still stuck on Carlisle's or Cats, I would definitely go with the Cats. They cost more for a reason. I've seen a lot of bent, cracked, split, and/or broken Carlisle's on the river, can't say that about Cats or Sawyers


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## Coon (Jun 25, 2007)

*Whatcha talking bout?*



miker said:


> Sawyer all the way. Your sholders are worth it



Can you elaborate on that comment? What makes Sawyer compared to other brands (Ie. Cataract) easier on the shoulders?

~Julie


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

****- so why cataracts, what is the performance difference? Have you rowed both? I want to hear from someone that has used both.


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## asleep.at.the.oars (May 6, 2006)

I have Carliles on my boat - cause they were cheap & available when I was putting things together and I don't have to maintain them. I should have saved up for something nicer and am going to replace them eventually.

I've rowed Gull, Smoker, Cataract, and some other unknown wooden oars on 16' and 18' commercial boats in addition to my own gear. I think the Smokers are hands down the nicest oars on the water. They had just the right amount of spring when loaded and had a good feel to the water. The Gulls were nice in an 11' length on an 18' boat, but their 10' oars I thought were too stiff. The looser Cataract oars had a bit more spring than the Smokers, but have always felt to me like it was wasted motion rather than responsiveness. The stiffer Cataracts feel sufficiently leaden to me that I didn't think they were much better than aluminum. All told - it depends on your price range and use. If you want cheap and easy - Polecats or Carliles will get you down the river. If you want to spend more and maintain them, I still don't think carbon fiber can beat wood. As for blades - I've always thought the shaft was more important, although maybe I just haven't used "the" blade yet.

Re: balancing - I would rather use my core muscles to push down on an oar during the recovery than my shoulder muscles to lift up during the stroke. An oar in the oarlock that floats with ~7/8 of the blade submerged will allow you to use your strength to micro-feather while the blade is in the water so you don't lose control. I think putting weight on the insides of the oars just makes them harder to handle. How far apart are the handles? If you can train yourself to not pinch your thumbs, a little bit of overlap allows for a really strong stroke when the blade is actually in the water.

Re: handles - this is most important! An unvarnished wooden handle will soak up oil (i.e. hand salve) when you're doing skin maintenance and slowly give it back all without getting too slippery to hold on to, even when wet. Rubber grips get really slick if you butter up your hands too much, and then it takes forever to get them clean again. (I forgot that lesson while floating Island Park this year, and then relearned it while trying to run Split Mountain at 24,000) Plus black handles are really hot in the summer. I think synthetic grips are why people use rowing gloves. Rowing sweeps in college, we all did everything we could to avoid the oars with the rubber grips - the lightweights usually got stuck with them, suckers.


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

*10 ft Polecats*

Laura, We talked about oars and sizes on the (DRE oar towers at full length). I had 72 between the oarlocks and a 13 1/2 foot booat and got a pair of counter balanced 10 ft polecats( many people said they would be too long). They were about the same price. The first chance I go to row them was in Westwater at 15,000 and they felt really good. I can see them bending but they seem to hold power and release it before takingthem out of the water. 
Durangotang
I guess I didnt put as much thouhgt into the wholeoar thing as I thought. What specifically do you mean by balanced? Are you talking weight evenly distributed in/out of the oarlock, if thats possible? Or just balanced correctly for maximum potential. I feel like mine are balanced to where they are very light to lift and push down. 

On another note does anybody use springs under their oarlocks. I just put some on and it looks like they put alot of the little key ring loop that holds the oarlock in. I am afraid the pressure with the back and forth friction is going to snap one of those key ring loops and then there goes my oarlock. Anyone had this happen? Springs vs No Springs


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

I use the springs, no problems. Know a lot of people that do, and never heard any concern. And the "full height DRE thread" didn't have a discussion of the different brands of oars, which is what I'm not debating.


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## Snowhere (Feb 21, 2008)

I went with springs too, but my setup is pretty fresh. I have the Sawyer Cobra oarlocks and used their loop with the springs. The Sawyer loop is beefier and being spring steel, it can deform and spring back so I would be amazed if it fails in a normal lifetime. I like the springs, they give the locks a little give and keep the setup quieter.


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

I know the topic of the thread I was just referring to my questions about oar length on the other thread. You were a vote for longer oars, Thanks.


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## tyaker (Dec 11, 2004)

In regard to oars, Laura- It seems a little confusing to be talking about "Sawyers" and not specify which oars you're referring to. MX-G's, MX-F's, Sawer woods, Sawyer Composites, and Smokers are all made by Sawyer. Cataracts, quoting a middle fork guide buddy, are as close to wood as a composite oar comes to. Never tried the Sawyer lines, though. And, I've had to throw away plenty of Carlisles after trying to guide the Rogue with 'em. Wouldn't touch 'em with a ten-foot Smoker.

Grandyoso... As for springs, I'm goin out on a limb here, but if you have to use springs in order to prevent the oarlock from "slopping" up and down in the tower, you are rowing incorrectly.

An oarlock should provide transfer of energy pushing forward or backward, never up. If the lock is getting pushed up, you aren't doing anything but trying to flip the boat (poorly) or getting ready to accidentally pop it out due to having it downstream of the boat. Or breaking the oar.

Ideally, the slot in the oar tower for your lock should be only slightly shorter than the lock shaft anyway, so you shouldn't get much up/down slop anyway.

Those little key-ring "keepers" look pretty suspect to me, I've always had these : Lynchpin Oarlock Keeper and they've been bomber. If you really want to use springs, use these instead.

Just my opinion,
Tyler


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

Every set of locks I've bought has had shafts over an inch longer than the hole on the oar tower. So I use springs and linchpins, with washers top and bottom (and a squirt of DryLube before each trip to keep 'em quiet). 

I like the Cobra Scull locks. If you have rope wraps and rubber donuts, standard flat locks will jog the donuts back and forth, and they migrate. You have to keep bonking them back into place. With the Cobra locks, they stay adjusted. Plus they have a smoother feel. Worth the extra $$. 

Back to oars. I was a pole-vaulter in high school and learned to vault with an aluminum pole: stiff (like a Carlisle shaft). The power came from muscular effort, momentum, and balance— not the pole. Our coach bought fiberglass poles and was hoarding them. But when I broke my alu pole in the State Meet, he gave me a glass pole. First time out, I could feel the pole flex like mojo, then sproing. I cleared the bar by a couple feet and flew entirely over the landing pit, coming to earth on hands and knees. Fuck-Ow!

Lesson: the fiberglass pole stored my dynamic energy and then released it toward the end of my vault. That's how glass and carbon fiber shafts work. It's a different feel: sort of a delayed reaction. But I think it does add power for extended strokes. But with maybe a less-precise feel, particularly for those short stabbing strokes when you're lining up for a chute or correcting your line in big water. 

One caveat on Smokers– they are sweet. But being able to take the blades off and try different brands is nice, and also helps for transporting them. I use Sawyer Standard Utility oars (1-piece laminated wood) on my 13 ft. playcat and love 'em. So I don't have a rule.

Nice if you have friends and can borrow different kinds to try.

Chip


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

*No Slop Here*

I wasn't getting any slop I've just seen others use them and was curious to try them. I am going to pick up some of those pins, thanks for the input.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

What are you talking about springs?

I know a thing or two about oars and oarlocks but you completely lost me with the springs.

When you balance an oar the blade should float in the water with most of it submerged. If most of the blade is out or the blade sinks, it is not balanced.

Most boats are too narrow for their oars. So you need to set the oar locks as far to the outside as possible.

I always liked flex in an oar. And prefer the Cataract and fiberglass to the Carliles. But I have noticed, you can get used to nearly anything. Much of oar preference is academic.(but fun to talk about)

Real men use solid ash oars.

But now I have 10 foot laminated ash oars from New Zealand. I used them on a commercial trip in the Grand Canyon and then bought a pair from the shop in Flagstaff. But I don't know the brand. And the shop went out of business. Anyone have any idea of the brand?

Like a fool I bought 2 not 3 and need a spare.

I want to be known as the Animas Pimp. 

Because I have the most beautiful oars on the river.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

original durangotang said:


> What are you talking about springs?
> 
> I know a thing or two about oars and oarlocks but you completely lost me with the springs.
> 
> ...


Springs: 
Oarlock Stainless Springs

Real Men? Sounds like I should stay away from the wood oars, being a woman. Testosterone is a dangerous drug, causes injuries, death, nicknames such as "poser", and needless loss of cash. 

The rings that came with my cobras seem pretty strong, but I like the lynchpin idea, will have to try them. I agree cobras rock, even with my cheap carlisle's the cheap oarlocks have a limited range of motion.

Bummer, my friends Cataracts are shorter than I run even on my small boat. I think I'll try the local shop and see if I can demo a pair of the Cats this weekend.


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## brendodendo (Jul 18, 2004)

RE: Lynchpin Oarlock Keeper

Ask Dan Rauer about these. I believe that he is having major issues with this style. The pins were so bent and out of shape that I think he had to cut them off with a hack saw. They did not break, but sure bent all to hell.


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

*Hey Dan*

Did they bend from the pressure of a spring or just up and down pressure from running big stuff?


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

I have to agree with the previous poster. If you need springs to keep your oars in place something ain't right.

The setting of the oars is important. We were always told that the oar handles should be 3 thumb widths apart. To keep from catching your thumb.

But if you are raising the oars on each stroke maybe your seat is too high? (or too low? I am having problems conceiving the situation.)

Usually the oars need to be raised. You should not be rowing between your knees. When you are pushing on the oar your arm should be straight out from your shoulder. The blade should be fully in the water. You should push or pull without raising the oar. 

Oars should hit you right at nipple height (that might be variable on women) Mid chest lets say. And you should be able to get a full stroke. If the stroke is too short or too long the seat isn't right.

Also the distance between your seat and the oar locks is crucial.

Perhaps I should have said Real BOATMEN use solid ash oars. Since it is my understanding that is what the women guides on the Grand Canyon prefer to be called.









lhowemt said:


> Springs:
> 
> 
> The rings that came with my cobras seem pretty strong, but I like the lynchpin idea, will have to try them. I agree cobras rock, even with my cheap carlisle's the cheap oarlocks have a limited range of motion.
> ...


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

*Real Men Have Deep Pockets?*

Judging by the price of ash ours real men must have deep pockets as well.


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## Big Da (Mar 8, 2006)

*oars*

Spend the coin and buy the sawyer mxg's with rope wrap and ash wood blade. Well worth it.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

original durangotang said:


> Perhaps I should have said Real BOATMEN use solid ash oars. Since it is my understanding that is what the women guides on the Grand Canyon prefer to be called.


Here's one boatwoman (and I preferred to be called that as I rowed the Grand) dreaming of the day women don't HAVE to prefer to be called men. We've come so far, and sometimes nowhere at all. I suppose preferring to be called a boatman is a step up from preferring to call each other Hags, or is it?

And the springs just keep the oarlocks from banging up and down, takes up that inch or inch and a half of play they have. For me it is more of a luxury than something I feel I need.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

*Boatmen*

I understood the commercial women on the Grand took a poll.

And that is what they wanted to be called.

Plus: If there is slop in your oar going up and down something else is going on. My oars don't have any play.



lhowemt said:


> Here's one boatwoman (and I preferred to be called that as I rowed the Grand) dreaming of the day women don't HAVE to prefer to be called men. We've come so far, and sometimes nowhere at all. I suppose preferring to be called a boatman is a step up from preferring to call each other Hags, or is it?
> 
> And the springs just keep the oarlocks from banging up and down, takes up that inch or inch and a half of play they have. For me it is more of a luxury than something I feel I need.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

*Cheap at twice the price*

Seeing as I have never broken one, they are cheaper than any alternative.

And there is nothing like real solid wood in your hands.

And in Big Water. Nothing compares.

Nothing.


grandyoso said:


> Judging by the price of ash ours real men must have deep pockets as well.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

original durangotang said:


> I understood the commercial women on the Grand took a poll.
> 
> And that is what they wanted to be called.


Again: dreaming of the day women don't HAVE to WANT to be called men, as if being a (boat)woman was something inferior.

What kind of oarlocks do you run that don't have play in the shaft?


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## grandyoso (Aug 20, 2006)

My oars have no play and my bank account is low so I will be good with my Polecates


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## Snowhere (Feb 21, 2008)

I don't think these guys get it, lhowem. The oars have nothing to do with the springs. All the springs do is keep the oarlock from banging when they go up and down from hits on the river. I had a commercial guide friend row my boat a few weeks back and he commented how he liked how the springs just smooth the oars out. Essentially the springs just take out the slop that is inherent in any OARLOCK, not oar. If you don't want them, just do not use them, I am sure the extra 1 oz will not be missed.


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## tyaker (Dec 11, 2004)

Wow... from oars, to locks, to springs, to women's lib on the grand. Is the 'buzz f%#king cool or what?


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## tyaker (Dec 11, 2004)

grandyoso said:


> Did they bend from the pressure of a spring or just up and down pressure from running big stuff?


I've seen that happen from the pins getting placed back in the oarlock in the wrong position, and the pin gets snagged on some close tolerance part of the frame, then bent all to hell. They still work though. Pretty sure they can be bent back, with a couple of vice grips. No way a spring would do that. And If i remember right, the frame I saw that on was a POS steel monster with messed up oar towers.


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## lhowemt (Apr 5, 2007)

*4 out of 3 people have trouble with fractions.*

Yes, the Buzz is cool, and I LOVE your siggy! Are you a math head, or just very humorous?


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## tyaker (Dec 11, 2004)

It was the answer I gave to the bonus question on my SAT. I don't think it helped.


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## original durangotang (Jul 11, 2008)

I don't know the brand. Just regular old oar locks.

The shaft is not that long. Sure it might move up some. But rarely. And not on every stroke.

I think if the oars are moving the oar locks your oar locks must be too low.

Or your seat is too high.





lhowemt said:


> Again: dreaming of the day women don't HAVE to WANT to be called men, as if being a (boat)woman was something inferior.
> 
> What kind of oarlocks do you run that don't have play in the shaft?


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## Chip (Apr 7, 2007)

*Play?*

Speaking of "play" do you mean the shaft of the oarlock (the bronze part) moving up and down in the hole on the oar tower? (That's what springs and washers prevent.) 

Or the oars bonking up and down in locks that aren't properly fitted to the oarshafts? (An operation that involves a vise and a big hammer, with lots of judicious whanging and maybe some crowbar work.) 

I've seen a plague of oars that don't fit their locks, and had to do some riverbank tailoring with rocks: ka-bong, ka-bong! 

The oars should slip freely through the locks, but when up against the stops shouldn't move more than a milli-fraction up and down, let alone pop out. From some of the discussion on this thread, I'm not sure that's a shared assumption. 

What page are we on?

Chip


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