# Rolled raft mildew



## Learch (Jul 12, 2010)

You store your raft? WTH? Use the damn thing! Honestly, I am surprised you have a mold issue. I've had 2 Aire kayaks and never had mold issues. But my boats are mostly stored at least partially inflated in a garage. If I was in your shoes, I'd pull it completely apart and dry it. There may be enough moisture and mold in the tubes that it comes back persistently. If all of the mold is gone, maybe it wouldn't return? It's a PITA to keep a raft inflated all year, but I boat all year, and I hate rolling Sotars.


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## grumper13 (Jan 14, 2008)

In general, you just need to provide a gentle and dry heat source. In your case, maybe try loosely rolling the raft around something to create a void in the middle, like maybe a couple of milk crates (lots of things will work), then putting a 25 watt clip-light on a timer inside this void. Then set the timer to go on and off once or twice a day for a total of maybe 3-4 hours. Also, maybe set the rolled raft on a pallet (to get it off the concrete floor). And to test the gentleness of the heat, just put your hand in the void after the light has been on awhile. You could also wrap a carpet scrap around the milk crates to further diffuse the heat of the bulb, and soften the corners.


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## Randaddy (Jun 8, 2007)

I like storing rafts inflated on a ping pong table until they are totally dry. Ping Pong tables are all over Craigslist cheap and fold up and roll for easy storage. With your Aire you may want to open the zippers and run a towel through to get the inside as dry as possible. Try not to roll it for the winter until it's completely dry.


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## Paul7 (Aug 14, 2012)

I've read that spores can feed off of soap residue, might want to make sure there is no invisible residue. I've rolled mine three winters in North Idaho with no issue. 

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## Skyman (Jun 26, 2006)

If you need to store indoors, I would find a large airtight container. It will keep the moisture and critters out. Unless of course there is still moisture on/in the raft prior to storage. I've seen people use large plastic barrels for raft storage.


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## jpbay (Jun 10, 2010)

I had the same problem. I quit using 303 before rolling the boat up. I store it in the dark so uv protectant seems like a waste.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

Couple points. don't 303d! Aire recommends using 303d sparingly if at all. Second, don't worry about washing your boat with soap and warm water before storing. Most important is you get off any grit and that its dry. At the end of your "season" vacuum any sand/dirt out of the boat before rolling. I also open up the floor and vacuum that out once a year, which helps the PRV valve from getting clogged latter. I have never ever ever ever opened up the tubes to dry them out!. After you vacuum it out, let it sit until totally dry, then roll it up. In stead of a week, dry 2 or 3 weeks before you roll it up. I have been doing this to my aire boats for many years with no mildew/mold and we live in NW Oregon and used to live in NW Washington (similar or wetter climate than you). We have 2 aire rafts and 7 aire kayaks and do this to all, and the age of these boats range from more than 20 years old to about 8 years old.


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

*Shit!*

Thanks for the feed back,
It sounds like I should stop using 303 till I break it out again and let it sit out a little longer. I just walked out to open the zippers and made it about a foot down the first zipper not using any tools and this happened! Anyone replaced one of these or will it have to go back to the factory? I can't win for loosing.


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## k2andcannoli (Feb 28, 2012)

Contact aire, your boat is probably still under warranty.


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## liquidphoto (Oct 22, 2010)

Yep should be under warranty. I do take the bladder out of the PVC outer. I can't have the stuff on my shop floor for for any longer than a day or 2. Putting them up is a bit of a chore but I know the boat inside and out. I'm on my 2nd cat with Aire. They make a great product. Like with anything else there are pros and cons. I have a Hyside self bailer and do like just leaving it inflated over night then rolling it up the next day. The mildew comes from water inside the tube After you dry it and then roll it up, it just leaks out creating water that will turn to mildew. Good luck


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

You should have an extra zipper car in your repair kit. Just pull the zipper apart and and slide the zipper car on the tag ends to re-zip up. Watch the repair videos they have, use a sharpened zip tie to secure the tag ends after you have zipped it back up. Call aire and they send you some more zipper cars. 

There should be no reason to take you aire cells out of the tubes unless you need to repair. Taking the aire cells out is totally over kill, a PITA, and completely unnecessary.


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

shappattack said:


> You should have an extra zipper car in your repair kit. Just pull the zipper apart and and slide the zipper car on the tag ends to re-zip up. Watch the repair videos they have, use a sharpened zip tie to secure the tag ends after you have zipped it back up. Call aire and they send you some more zipper cars.
> 
> There should be no reason to take you aire cells out of the tubes unless you need to repair. Taking the aire cells out is totally over kill, a PITA, and completely unnecessary.



shappattack,

Thanks for all the info!


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## amv48 (Mar 27, 2011)

I had the same issue. Took my aire raft from AZ to NY. Opened it up last spring and found it covered in mildew. 303 took it right off. I also am tight on space, so I have to roll and store in the garage. This year after my last trip I let it dry in the sun. Did not unzip the floor, and am not a fan if the floor taking in water, but let it stay inflated about a week then rolled it. Seemed to be dry. I just took my tomcat out this week. Same process. I picked up an outcast fish cat this spring and that is a sweet, low maintenance boat and the rubber stores in a Rubbermaid tub. Great topic and feedback.


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## Panama Red (Feb 10, 2015)

Try Scrubbing Bubbles it does the work so you don't have to.

You know, Frederick Fucking Chopin.


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## PhilipJFry (Apr 1, 2013)

for those of you that have a garage and are rolling your boats, have you thought about hanging them from the ceiling? I have a standard 2 car garage that my suburban barely fits in (bumper to bumper wall to door with only about 1/2" to spare at the door) I park a GMC Jimmy right next to it. I hang my 16' Aire cat (with the frame) oriented width wise. hanging over my suburban and my jimmy. (i only have about 1" of space between the tubes and the top of my suburban) but I'd imagine most 14' rafts would fit in the same fashion, as with the oar towers, it's not tucked up tight to the ceiling. - This was the only way I was able to store my boat without deflating it. in the spring/summer/early fall it sits on the trailer in the back yard with a tarp over it.


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## Paul7 (Aug 14, 2012)

PhilipJFry said:


> for those of you that have a garage and are rolling your boats, have you thought about hanging them from the ceiling? I have a standard 2 car garage that my suburban barely fits in (bumper to bumper wall to door with only about 1/2" to spare at the door) I park a GMC Jimmy right next to it. I hang my 16' Aire cat (with the frame) oriented width wise. hanging over my suburban and my jimmy. (i only have about 1" of space between the tubes and the top of my suburban) but I'd imagine most 14' rafts would fit in the same fashion, as with the oar towers, it's not tucked up tight to the ceiling. - This was the only way I was able to store my boat without deflating it. in the spring/summer/early fall it sits on the trailer in the back yard with a tarp over it.


I've considered it did you use rope and pulleys? Build a platform of sorts? My boat/frame is 200lbs.

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## PhilipJFry (Apr 1, 2013)

Paul7 said:


> I've considered it did you use rope and pulleys? Build a platform of sorts? My boat/frame is 200lbs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Mountain Buzz mobile app


My cat is probably a little heavier (in the 300lb range) have a 8 ft powder coated steel frame that is heavier than a pig. 

I don't have any pulley's just 4 heavy duty hooks that screw in the rafters (my ceiling is sheet rocked) I just take a 6ft cam strap and loop them through each corner of the frame, I make about a 3ft loop, then I have one of my kids come out in the garage and I lift up one end of the cat and they loop the straps over the hooks, then the other end. then I just yank on the strap at each corner until I've slowly tightened each one up as high as it will go. So far no troubles, and I can get it up there in about 20 minutes. (which isn't bad for only doing it once a year) this year I folded down my oar towers and gained a few more inches of clearance over the suburban. I leave the oars and stuff strapped on top of the frame. so all those unwieldy things are all together. In the spring I back my trailer in the garage and lower it down on to the deck (the platform is 2' off the deck of my trailer so it's kind of tall) then I spin it around to orient it on the trailer, strap it down, and off we go.


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

My garage does not have the clearance or the depth to hang it and not hit the overhead door. Someone mentioned storing it in their basement 💡💡. I have an unfinished basement that is the new home for my INFLATED raft. Though I do have a 12 year old daughter that can not wait for it to be finished and get a new bedroom and bathroom so it may be a short term fix. 
I did learn that the zipper car in the repair kit is meant for repairing you bulkheads and is not a spare or double car. 
I wish I had room for a trailer that I could keep it inflated and covered on but as it is I already have a 14' dump trailer and a 14' enclosed tool trailer that take up any spare parking I have. 
I have always been suspect of the 303 so next time I roll it I will avoid the 303 till I break it out in the spring. In addition ill try unzipping the tubes. I do have the sealed floor but will not open that thing up unless absolutely necessary. 

Thanks again y'all!


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## willieWAO (Jun 14, 2005)

one outfitter i used to work for would clean and apply baby powder to their hypalon fleet before storage, of course that was in CO with very low relative humidity...anyone try this on materials other than hypalon?


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

Another alternative - trade it in for a boat with no zippers!


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## caverdan (Aug 27, 2004)

yesimapirate said:


> Another alternative - trade it in for a boat with no zippers!


You can always unzip it and decon it...........then sell it while it still smells good. Those boats are nothing short of being a breeding ground for evasive species :shock:.


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## Riverwild (Jun 19, 2015)

Trejos said:


> Thanks for the feed back,
> It sounds like I should stop using 303 till I break it out again and let it sit out a little longer. I just walked out to open the zippers and made it about a foot down the first zipper not using any tools and this happened! Anyone replaced one of these or will it have to go back to the factory? I can't win for loosing.


Same exact thing happened to me with my zipper. I talked to AIRE and they said that for about 3 years there were problems with the zipper metal. I think mine is an 08. Fortunately for me at the time I lived in Boise so I just took it down to them and had it back the next week with a new zipper for free under the amazing warranty AIRE provides.


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## Hyside Inflatables (Jul 26, 2012)

*Preventing Moisture During Storage*

To help prevent moisture build up when storing, you could try putting a bucket of No Damp or similar dehumidifier in the storage container/garage/shed area right by the boat. We've recommended this to outfitters who store their entire fleet in a sea train or similar storage area. 

http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Damp-Dehumidifier-System/dp/B00U2JB1ES

No matter what, especially in confined spaces that aren't climate controlled, you will have moisture. You could always give the boat a once over midway through winter just so it doesn't have a consistent build up for months at a time. As a similarity, safe manufacturers recommend opening up your safe every few months to help prevent moisture buildup.

Also, make sure not to store directly on concrete, as this will definitely create/trap moisture.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

caverdan said:


> evasive species


Another expert on invasive species


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

Riverwild said:


> Same exact thing happened to me with my zipper. I talked to AIRE and they said that for about 3 years there were problems with the zipper metal. I think mine is an 08. Fortunately for me at the time I lived in Boise so I just took it down to them and had it back the next week with a new zipper for free under the amazing warranty AIRE provides.


The dude's zipper car broke, all you need to do to fix is slide a new zipper car on at the tag ends, not replace the whole zipper. If all you had was a broken zipper car, your actual zipper wouldn't be replaced. This don't make sense.


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## jpbay (Jun 10, 2010)

caverdan said:


> You can always unzip it and decon it...........then sell it while it still smells good. Those boats are nothing short of being a breeding ground for evasive species :shock:.


It would take so very small invasive species to get past the double zipper Aire uses. Aire reports no know issues with that as well. Also I never have had an issue with mold inside of the raft. Only a little mildew after using 303 before rolling in up for the winter, even then it wipes of with soap & water. Never have heard of or seen invasive species on a river running raft. Well maybe some behind the oars


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

Lol AIRE. Company thinks they have reinvented the wheel. There's a reason no other company uses zippers. I ran my sotar st last week and put it away wet. Might run next week or next month doesn't matter. That bladder and zipper is a shitshow.


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

I commercially guide on the White Salmon in WA. Out of the top 5 company's on the river only one runs anything other than Aire. This river is like creeking in a raft, they go through a shit ton of abuse. That in and of itself is what sold me on Aire, not to mention their warranty. A faulty zipper car or a little extra attention when storing is not enough to change my mind. I am not taking anything away from the other manufacturers or the people who chose them. You make you decision for reason only you know but there is a reason Aire makes over a thousand trips down the white salmon each year. 
As for the zipper car, took an hour to replace. Any of the other cars would have been a half hour. 
I had it all prepared for storage in my basement and now I am headed out to the Deschutes with my 12year old Daughter for a three day run, just the two of us. Brrrr. 
Oh, and being a "shit show" is more about the user than the product. You may want to stick with a button up sleeping bag and Velcro tent flys. 🤐

Thanks again for the posts with constructive feed back. 


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

you bit the troll's worm


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

Ya, I slipped in the mud. I try not to. 


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## yesimapirate (Oct 18, 2010)

My comment was said totally for feather ruffling.


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

Trejos said:


> I commercially guide on the White Salmon in WA. Out of the top 5 company's on the river only one runs anything other than Aire. This river is like creeking in a raft, they go through a shit ton of abuse. That in and of itself is what sold me on Aire, not to mention their warranty. A faulty zipper car or a little extra attention when storing is not enough to change my mind. I am not taking anything away from the other manufacturers or the people who chose them. You make you decision for reason only you know but there is a reason Aire makes over a thousand trips down the white salmon each year.
> As for the zipper car, took an hour to replace. Any of the other cars would have been a half hour.
> I had it all prepared for storage in my basement and now I am headed out to the Deschutes with my 12year old Daughter for a three day run, just the two of us. Brrrr.
> Oh, and being a "shit show" is more about the user than the product. You may want to stick with a button up sleeping bag and Velcro tent flys. ��
> ...


Outfitters are cheap. If sotar and maravia offered aires buy 4 boats get one free every company on the white would run them. Just sayin. For a private boater like myself a 200 pound Frankenstein boat is not my bag. Glad you're happy though.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

such a small worm for such a big troll,


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## brendodendo (Jul 18, 2004)

I'm late and I'll bite. I have a 2000 super puma. I abuse the heck out of it. It sees a good amount of use. I 303 once a season. Try to keep it covered if on the trailer or loosely rolled. Winter storage is not that hard. Remove thwarts. hose it out including a little extra attention to the floor zipper. Wipe it down. Use MI to remove any stubborn spots. Possibly a really light coat of 303. If I 303, then I dust the boat with baby powder just before I roll it. Deflate floor and open zipper. Clean out any sediment and use a compressor to spray out the PRV. Reassemble and fill floor half way. Let sit for a few days or a week in the garage till dry. Use a small Coleman pump to suck the air out the tubes. This usually result in a few table spoons of water being blown out. Roll it as tight as I can and set it on a shelf out of the way. People cant believe that it is 15 years old. 

If you don't like Aire boats, the don't buy a fn Aire. I have nothing but praise for my boat and the company that made it. Easy to work with and has gone out of their way to make me a happy customer. If only I could say the same about the company that made my boiler that has once again blown a part that will take no less than 2 weeks to get to me, cost an arm and a leg and be a PItA to install. It going to be cold here for a bit.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

bucketboater said:


> AIRE..bladder and zipper is a shitshow.


The actual Shit Show:

Aire cat assisting sotar cat from big hole rodeo surf on the upper Owyhee at around 30,000 cfs on my youtube channel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOpB-33lNNY

Zippers and aire cells flying left and right (over water falls) on Oregon Rafting Team's channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQrLEKu1qrg

Zipper mania! on the channel of the Master himself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CdUzZQ1mUE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcRfedqVCXg


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

If that's a shit show, yes - more please.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

bucketboater said:


> *Outfitters are cheap*. If sotar and maravia offered aires buy 4 boats get one free every company on the white would run them. Just sayin. For a private boater like myself a 200 pound Frankenstein boat is not my bag. Glad you're happy though.


^^ Exactly what I was thinking. ^^

I had some idea of what AIREs would be like to run, but reserved full judgement until after a full season running them. On the water, they handled fine for me for the most part. However, there wasn't a _single_ de-rig during which I didn't cuss the "brilliant" water-in-the-floor design. What a joke. It also doesn't help that to find pinholes you've got to dismantle the durn things, although I did get plenty of chance to work on my sewing skills!

Anyway, if I were given an AIRE, I suppose I'd run it, but I couldn't foresee myself spending more than about 20 bucks for one.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

another small wormed troll


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## bucketboater (Jul 9, 2012)

shappattack said:


> another small wormed troll


Dude stop the fluffing, it's getting annoying. There's a thread once a month about the zippers failing,mildew and shit between the bladder and raft. Nobodys trolling when they give legit reasons for not running a aire. I like sotars but don't freak out when people say they can't afford them or they don't feel like a good enough boater to run such a high end boat. different strokes for different folks.


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## Trejos (Oct 29, 2012)

Bucketboater,

If there are that many threads about this same old issue I would think you would be out of wind by now. 

I started this thread looking for insight. I did not want to know how badass the raft you purchased is, your dick size or how much you bench press. 

I can imagine you spending your life on a keyboard insert your self importance into every issue. I've noticed your always on the outside of these conversations trying so hard to be recognized. Is that a metaphor for your life? Maybe if you didn't introduce yourself as the opinionated ass hat people would be more receptive. 

Consider backing away from the keyboard, going outside and taking in some fresh air. When and if you find yourself try coming back.

Thanks again for fucking up my topic and dragging it through the mud. 

You win, I bow out, the thread is yours. 


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## SpeyCatr (Aug 14, 2013)

climbdenali said:


> ^^ Exactly what I was thinking. ^^
> 
> However, there wasn't a _single_ de-rig during which I didn't cuss the "brilliant" water-in-the-floor design. What a joke. It also doesn't help that to find pinholes you've got to dismantle the durn things, although I did get plenty of chance to work on my sewing skills!


If you pull the raft out of the water and let it sit for about a minute almost all of the water drains out on it's own. This obviously requires a bit of patience but it's not like there is a shortage of things to de-rig at the end of the day that you can't take care of while you wait for the raft floor to drain to make it lighter to carry. 

This feature some consider a worthwhile feature as well - I've seen the results - while rafting the Nahatlatch River (BC, Canada), this past June I was rowing a 16 foot AIRE raft (oar frame) and we had a paddle crew on a 16 foot AIRE raft behind us. We went through a Class 4 rapid called the Meat Grinder. I got through no problem and eddied out, but the paddle crew missed their line and ended up river left in a big hole. The boat got surfed pretty good and may tagged round a couple times as the crew had to quickly keep repositioning themselves on the d/s side of the boat as it was may tagged around to counteract the hole. This was one of those situations where they were *this* close to being flipped and that little bit of ballast that this water in floor saved the day. I wish I got it on video. 

During my guide training in June we k*cked the shit out of 20 year old AIRE rafts and they came back for more. Never seen boats get so abused on sharp river rocks, bouncing off side rocks trying to catch eddies, and some mishandling during shuttles - borderline abuse, the stuff some boats wouldn't see in 10 years that we put them through in 14 days. 

AIRE is a good company run by good people - they build innovative products, their manufacturing processes are second to none, their materials are very high quality, and they support their products & customers relentlessly. In the cutthroat industry that is rafting we should be supporting such companies as much as we can, as much as it can be expensive, it is American Made!


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

SpeyCatr said:


> If you pull the raft out of the water and let it sit for about a minute almost all of the water drains out on it's own.


Maybe with a different model than what we had, or with a steep ramp. The boats we had had GALLONS of water left in them after allowing them to "drain" while we loaded all the other gear. Not just heavy, but sometimes almost prohibitive to even pull up on the ramp, even after unloading all the other gear out of it.

Anyway, to stay somewhat on topic, I think you'll have a really tough time keeping mildew from growing inside a boat that's allowed, even intended to have water on its insides, particularly between two enclosed pieces of rubber. I think your choice is to fully dismantle the boat whenever you want it totally dry, or live with the mildew.

I know that the boats that I used were several years old (maybe 10??) and although we tried to get them dryish at the end of the season, there was definitely water left in them. I never saw any damage to the boats from this, although it did leave the boathouse pretty nasty.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

bucketboater said:


> Dude stop the fluffing, it's getting annoying. There's a thread once a month about the zippers failing,mildew and shit between the bladder and raft. Nobodys trolling when they give legit reasons for not running a aire. I like sotars but don't freak out when people say they can't afford them or they don't feel like a good enough boater to run such a high end boat. different strokes for different folks.


We should all forgive bucketboater, he is taking out his frustration on all of us for having to sit in constant traffic in the Seattle Metro area, which is more preferable than road rage.


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## shappattack (Jul 17, 2008)

climbdenali said:


> Maybe with a different model than what we had, or with a steep ramp. The boats we had had GALLONS of water left in them after allowing them to "drain" while we loaded all the other gear. Not just heavy, but sometimes almost prohibitive to even pull up on the ramp, even after unloading all the other gear out of it.
> 
> Anyway, to stay somewhat on topic, I think you'll have a really tough time keeping mildew from growing inside a boat that's allowed, even intended to have water on its insides, particularly between two enclosed pieces of rubber. I think your choice is to fully dismantle the boat whenever you want it totally dry, or live with the mildew.
> 
> I know that the boats that I used were several years old (maybe 10??) and although we tried to get them dryish at the end of the season, there was definitely water left in them. I never saw any damage to the boats from this, although it did leave the boathouse pretty nasty.


I live in western oregon and previously lived in western washington in a rainy and wet climate. We have several aires. I have never had a mold or mildew problem with any of them. I have always stored them rolled, never 303d, don't wash them, but do vacuum off dusty/dirt and let dry for a week or more before long term rolled storage. I don't even roll them loosely. Some times I have stored our Aires in a heated environment and sometimes not. I have never unzipped the hull to dry out the inside. I open the floor of all the boats once a year to vacuum out sand, and I have never seen mold on the inside either. I have never had gallons of water in the floor of my raft. It drains out in about 2 minutes enough for my wife and I to pick up a 14' SDP and load it. I have had the Aire SDP for almost 10 years now.

Basically, I get any loose dirt/sand/debris off the outside, vacuum the inside of the floor, let dry and roll up, and never had any issues with mold or any other issues.


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## climbdenali (Apr 2, 2006)

OK, so after some more research, I found this explanation on AIRE's website.

I think, that some of the boats I used have the RFP and some have the SFP. 

The RFPs drained nicely- no complaints on those ones as far as retaining excessive water.

The SFPs, on the other hand, always filled up with a ton and a half of water. We'd drain them using what I now know is the burp valve, but not nearly all the water would come out. So, I suppose that the problem is actually a damaged raft- either the waterproof zipper is shot, or there's some other large leak letting water in. I'm guessing zipper. We just never realized that the boat has a hole in it, since the floors still held air for a whole trip.


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