# I'm sexy and I know it!



## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

I didn't want to make the 1st post too long so here's the sequal(s). These are some of the things coming to mind. Feel free to discuss any or all of what I'm addressing.

1. I run class III-V any time I'm taking this baby out on the water.

2. I just prefer "Idaho style" for rowing position and the benefits it provides have seemed to outweigh its drawbacks.

3. I'm not sure on what to do for a seat setup. I'm used to a NRS highback, and really like the comfort, support and bracing it provides. But think that might be putting me up to high if I mount it on top of a drybox on bay two.

4. I'm thinking of welding cross members (pipe/tube) to the drop rails to support the drybox and cooler. Since my dual rails are detachable as separate pieces, I think it seems like a good idea to do this so I can cut down rigging time, and on the shorter trips, I can get in and out of the cooler full of beer.

5. I'm getting some edge trim to wrap the diamond plating to reduce risks of lacerations and give it a more finished professional look. I'm also going to drill out holes to bolt it directly to the custom dual rail fittings and use a rubber/cork gasket in between. It just seems to be a good idea to do so.


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## treemanji (Jan 23, 2011)

So sexy, looks like something you would get towed around on hammered in Mexico.


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

The oar towers have rubber/cork gaskets made for them, and I plan on making extra holes in the 1/4" thick diamond plating to allow for 1.5" adjustment fore or aft.

I'm on the east coast, and groovers aren't required by law. However, I still need to have a warm and fuzzy on where/how to store one for the trips out west. I'm thinking somewhere in bay 3?

Is there anything else to consider aside from accessories? I'm mainly concerned with seating, storage, welded drop rails, and overall layout.

Thanks!


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Your towers look close to your feet. Maybe this is intended. Doesnt hurt to add more holes for adjustment

If you have welding skills i'd consider mounting a detachable plate on the front of the boat that you can strap/clip your groover to. That way it doesnt affect your setup and there is no groover to cooler/drybox contact issues. Plus it adds weight in front of your boat (you may find with gear etc your CG is behind the center of the boat)

The other thing is check with the rivers you want to float. I've seen 4' x 4" abs tubes made into groovers if you dont mind stuffing. That could basically mount alongside the spare oar and maybe meet the requirements. Wag bags if you want to be extra sanitary. Some rivers require them but have real toilets along them so you rarely need to use it


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## carvedog (May 11, 2005)

How do you keep the welding burns off the carpet?


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

I like the idea of using PVC pipe to store human waste instead of a ammo can.

I thought wag bags for each use would be a good idea to be more sanitary and to keep stink down. I'm glad somebody else mentioned it.

Gonna have to check if that will pass regulations for the big name rivers.

I'm still mulling over the seat issue, which is the next thing I need to do so I can at least starttaking it out on the rivers.


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## slamkal (Apr 8, 2009)

Just get a shallow depth drybox and bolt a nrs seatplate inside the lid. I wouldnt do highback there will be a lot of strain on your box and it will get trashed if you flip


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## idahofloater (Feb 23, 2011)

Totally sexy. I have used pvc personal human waste containers with wag bags for years. The link below has instructions as to how to make them. Plus there is a sweet fire box system that I just made this week and will be tring it out this weekend. 

Food for thought.

Self Support Kayak Camping


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## slamkal (Apr 8, 2009)

idahofloater said:


> Totally sexy. I have used pvc personal human waste containers with wag bags for years. The link below has instructions as to how to make them. Plus there is a sweet fire box system that I just made this week and will be tring it out this weekend.
> 
> Food for thought.
> 
> Self Support Kayak Camping


Last year i spoke with a ranger. Last i heard The Rogue allows wag bags and gamma lid cans. You gotta show then you have enough wag bags however. Always a good idea to phone the ranger station before your trip


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

I think I am gonna look for a shallower depth drybox. Maybe make wider to compensate for the loss (i.e. 38"L X 14"H X 18"W)? I would have to take some real estate off of bay 3, but I'm thinking that the passenger definitely doesn't need 25" of leg room, and yet I could still work in a set of Captains boxes in bay 3 if I want.

I'm gonna have to get a bigger cooler now too. My last cat was a 14' and I used a 80qt Engel, but I think I can go bigger. Does anybody know if there is a good low profile cooler out there? If this exists, I'm thinking I can still run my Cloud 9 pads over the cooler and diamond plate decking for a very cozy spot to stretch out, or just enjoy looking at my wife's... Scenery!


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Catman said:


> I think I am gonna look for a shallower depth drybox. Maybe make wider to compensate for the loss (i.e. 38"L X 14"H X 18"W)? I would have to take some real estate off of bay 3, but I'm thinking that the passenger definitely doesn't need 25" of leg room, and yet I could still work in a set of Captains boxes in bay 3 if I want.
> 
> I'm gonna have to get a bigger cooler now too. My last cat was a 14' and I used a 80qt Engel, but I think I can go bigger. Does anybody know if there is a good low profile cooler out there? If this exists, I'm thinking I can still run my Cloud 9 pads over the cooler and diamond plate decking for a very cozy spot to stretch out, or just enjoy looking at my wife's... Scenery!


Yes your passenger doesnt need that much legroom. I have 16" up there its plenty and on a booze cruise we can drop in a 94 qt cooler just for beer. You might choose 19" if you need to run ammo can setup.

Not sure of a shallow depth cooler. I run a yeti 120 with some pelican 1450s aside it and two jerry cans behind it its a perfect flat spot to strap down a pair of pacos and the perfect height for my wives beautiful breasts to lay out. You dont want to get a sore neck while oaring


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

As far as the drybox goes, I'm getting a custom low profile one built by NRS. I'm going with 38"L x 12"H x 20"D. These dimensions should keep my seat height low enough to reduce getting tossed around in big water, yet still fit all the dry goods I would want to put in it.

I think I'm gonna try out the 123qt NRS Big Sky cooler, and see how it fares. I get an affiliate discount with NRS, and have been very satisfied with customer service and support. So why not take advantage of 40% off retail right!?! I think I'd be stupid not to.

Another thing I'll address that I haven't got any feedback on yet, is welded cross bars. I think I'm gonna scrap that idea, but instead weld full length scout bars that will also double as mounts for the cooler and drybox.


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

I see you have the cnc wildgoose rails. I would just do welded scout bars


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

Yes, I called WGE up and purchased the last batch they made. I consider myself blessed! They are really nice, and work quite well for many reasons. I've had some people say that they are a pain in the arse to take off the cross members. However, I coated the pipes and fittings with Liquid Wrench "white lithium grease" and am able to pull the entire section off by myself with a couple whacks with the rubber mallet. I figure I'll have to recoat each time I apply 303 as well for good measure. Here's a pic of the detachable side rails w/fittings.


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Catman said:


> Yes, I called WGE up and purchased the last batch they made. I consider myself blessed! They are really nice, and work quite well for many reasons. I've had some people say that they are a pain in the arse to take off the cross members. However, I coated the pipes and fittings with Liquid Wrench "white lithium grease" and am able to pull the entire section off by myself with a couple whacks with the rubber mallet. I figure I'll have to recoat each time I apply 303 as well for good measure. Here's a pic of the detachable side rails w/fittings.


since you get the NRS discount you might want to have them make you custom "inner" crossbars and you can sell some of the WGE or use for making another frame? I would think you could use the WGE every other crossbar and NRS inbetween them (spanning only the inner side rails) and save on weight and cost ... (especially 40% off NRS vs WGE cost ...) same goes for you towers if you use the NRS towers they will "spin" if when you flip instead of bending like the metal towers do. And you could just cut out the plating where you expect the towers to go ...


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## wildh2onriver (Jul 21, 2009)

I would defiantly add yokes and crossbars to the bottom of your frame to reduce flex and add strength. Nice setup!


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

I chose to have a WGE fitting at every crossbar because they act like floor joists for the diamond plating. This rduces the amount of flex in the decking overall. Plus, we're only talking about saving appx. 5lb if I were to use lopro fittings on the inner dual rails. Since most of the payload will be supported by the crossbars and dual rails, my thought is that i won't need to worry about adding yokes or having a lot of flex in the frame or drop rails. We'll see though...


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## wildh2onriver (Jul 21, 2009)

Catman said:


> I chose to have a WGE fitting at every crossbar because they act like floor joists for the diamond plating. This rduces the amount of flex in the decking overall. Plus, we're only talking about saving appx. 5lb if I were to use lopro fittings on the inner dual rails. Since most of the payload will be supported by the crossbars and dual rails, my thought is that i won't need to worry about adding yokes or having a lot of flex in the frame or drop rails. We'll see though...


I hear you. But, why I would recommend lower crossbars and lopro fittings (I meant that, instead of yokes btw, I was at work and posting on the fly), is because I have experienced this flex problem first hand. Problem solved when I added the cross bars.


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## Catboater1 (May 22, 2012)

*drybox*

How much is the NRS Custom box, why would you order from a middle man ,just curious? I just had the same thing done for mine as the 16's were way too high. Just got my box friday and it is the best box on the market I have seen. Went and ordered it , went to lunch and ran some erands and it was done.








Catman said:


> As far as the drybox goes, I'm getting a custom low profile one built by NRS. I'm going with 38"L x 12"H x 20"D. These dimensions should keep my seat height low enough to reduce getting tossed around in big water, yet still fit all the dry goods I would want to put in it.
> 
> I think I'm gonna try out the 123qt NRS Big Sky cooler, and see how it fares. I get an affiliate discount with NRS, and have been very satisfied with customer service and support. So why not take advantage of 40% off retail right!?! I think I'd be stupid not to.
> 
> Another thing I'll address that I haven't got any feedback on yet, is welded cross bars. I think I'm gonna scrap that idea, but instead weld full length scout bars that will also double as mounts for the cooler and drybox.


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

Wildh2onriver,

Your last post makes sense to me now. I can see where I'm potentially going to run into the flexing issue. I'm just hoping that 5 upper crossbars attached to a dual rail setup will be more rigid. I'm thinking if the drybox has hang tabs and is resting on the upper crossbars more so when I'm sitting on it, that it will distribute the weight more evenly along the top tubes directly. If I didn't use hang tabs, I would assume that I would deal with a lot more flex if all the weight was resting on the drop rails and full length scout bars.

Catboater,

I'm looking at about $240-$280 for my custom box after my discount is applied. I'm prior military, so I'm used to dealing with chain of command/middle management/middle man. So if I can get a large custom box (that gets good ratings mind you) at under $300, then so be it. It's like wining and dining a woman before she'll let you wear her hips like a scuba mask... Totally worth it right?  Your drybox looks really good by the way. What did it cost you to get it fabricated, and by whom? I'm not one to close any doors, and like to keep my options open.


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## Catboater1 (May 22, 2012)

Ha thats great lol. I got a good deal at 325.00 I didn't have any shipping charges because I picked it up. Mine does latch into my boat and doesn't have straps. I like that feature for sure! I figured from what I heard about nrs drybox pricing your box must have been 400 , guess not !

Love the boat in the house project, I did one of those once !


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

Catboater1,

I'm not seeing how your drybox latches directly to your frame. Can you show me a picture. I would also like to know which company you got that drybox from. And yes, NRS boxes are usually around the $400 range but my discount really knocks them down to a more affordable price.

Can anybody else weigh in on the lower crossbar/no crossbar issue? Do I really need them based on my setup? Those upper crossbars are 54" long, and the gap between the drop rails is 37" inside to inside.


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Catman said:


> Catboater1,
> 
> I'm not seeing how your drybox latches directly to your frame. Can you show me a picture. I would also like to know which company you got that drybox from. And yes, NRS boxes are usually around the $400 range but my discount really knocks them down to a more affordable price.
> 
> Can anybody else weigh in on the lower crossbar/no crossbar issue? Do I really need them based on my setup? Those upper crossbars are 54" long, and the gap between the drop rails is 37" inside to inside.


Depends on how rigid you need your boat. If you assemble the drops and tighten everything up, you will see you can get a decent amount of flex in the drops. 


My 14' ocelot uses the sport cat rails My 18 leopard uses three yokes on a 12' frame. 

If you do any crossbars i wouldnt make them welded in. You want them to take one for the team if you run over a rock you should have gone around


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

I'm seeing that I won't have much of an issue with starboard-to-port flex on an 8' frame with 5 upper crossbars, but that I will definitely have flex issues from bow to stern if rest any significant amount of payload on the drop rails.

I ABSOLUTELY HATE wasting time rigging and re-rigging a box/cooler with straps to the frame, and then not even being able to open during the trip (booze cruise) if I want.

I'm guessing that I could install a short pipe with lopros on each drop rail, going from the center portion of the drop rail vertically to one of the upper crossbars to negate front-to-back flex. Would you guys agree?


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## Avatard (Apr 29, 2011)

Or if you use a mesh floor the drop rails will flex inward. Most would be more concerned about that flex but it doesnt bother me Remember this is 6063 if its bent which makes it easier to flex. Why not weld some 6061 alongside it and you have a nice stable platform for cooler/drybox support as well as if you put down some grip tape you have someplace to scout from?


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## Catman (Jan 6, 2012)

All good advice! I appreciate the input. I've got some toolin' around to do.


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## Catboater1 (May 22, 2012)

Sorry been out on the river,that takes priority over my computer  
Here is where I bought my box.
Dryboxes





Catman said:


> Catboater1,
> 
> I'm not seeing how your drybox latches directly to your frame. Can you show me a picture. I would also like to know which company you got that drybox from. And yes, NRS boxes are usually around the $400 range but my discount really knocks them down to a more affordable price.
> 
> Can anybody else weigh in on the lower crossbar/no crossbar issue? Do I really need them based on my setup? Those upper crossbars are 54" long, and the gap between the drop rails is 37" inside to inside.


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